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  #561  
Old May 31st, 2016, 01:23 AM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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Beautiful truck Vernon! I like the color.

I wouldn't paint the cappings after galvanizing them. I think they look great on the red. Thanks for the photo Barry! Not a bad idea at all to galvanize the bumper, light bar, and tire carrier. But if I do those too I think I'd have them powder coated black afterwards.

I did some little miscellaneous things today. I found out why my rear speakers never worked. A corroded connector at the bulkhead. So I replaced it.

(shown without lock plate)


(chassis harness side)


I replaced the nut plates at the rear of the tub because they were rusty. Drilled out the threads in the center one since the seat belt bracket goes behind it. Probably should have just designed the bracket to act as the nut plate. I'm not sure how that bracket is suppose to be since I've never seen one.



Some galvanic corrosion, but not so bad. I painted on the rear side between the nut plate, then I painted the nut plate (I used black on the nut plate because they're not exactly visible from outside the truck.) I dabbed a little paint on the heads of the split rivets so they don't get rusty (they already had specs of rust on them new from Rovers North. Maybe I should have used something else besides the original type, but I figured I'd keep it the way it was.)



I fixed a broken port on the fuel vapour separator with some heavy duty adhesive heat shrink (with a little tape around it to make sure the glue doesn't close it up). Is that a purge valve? Before I put it back together I tried blowing in it both ways but air wouldn't go through. Does that mean it's bad or just needs more pressure to open than I can blow? (Edit: Okay, according to the workshop manual, the pressure relief valve opens when the pressure in the separator reaches between 5 and 7 Kpa.) I'm not sure if it's related, but one time I filled the tank with gas one of the valves on top came out and gas spilled out. I hope that doesn't happen again.

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  #562  
Old May 31st, 2016, 02:52 PM
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Andrew
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My new stainless Double 'S' exhaust just arrived from the UK. Shipping was pretty expensive for the one with the center silencer, so I got it without. I'm going to get a Stainless Works turbo chambered muffler. I listened to some videos and they seem to have a nice deep sound. Turbo Chambered Mufflers

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  #563  
Old May 31st, 2016, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post

I fixed a broken port on the fuel vapour separator with some heavy duty adhesive heat shrink (with a little tape around it to make sure the glue doesn't close it up). Is that a purge valve? Before I put it back together I tried blowing in it both ways but air wouldn't go through. Does that mean it's bad or just needs more pressure to open than I can blow? (Edit: Okay, according to the workshop manual, the pressure relief valve opens when the pressure in the separator reaches between 5 and 7 Kpa.) I'm not sure if it's related, but one time I filled the tank with gas one of the valves on top came out and gas spilled out. I hope that doesn't happen again.

^^ Andrew, what size are the 2 screws that mount the small vapor tank to the tub?? ^^


I've lost my screws AND I see yours are readily accesible

.
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  #564  
Old May 31st, 2016, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
^^ Andrew, what size are the 2 screws that mount the small vapor tank to the tub?? ^^


I've lost my screws AND I see yours are readily accesible

.
They're the same screws used on the fuel tank heat shield. Looks like they're 1/4" with a 14 thread, and 5/8" long. When I replaced the heat shield I used stainless screws and with a hex head (I had to use vice grips to get the old rusty screws out), but I think I'll reuse the mild steel ones with mylar washers for the vapour separator since it's bolted onto aluminum.
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  #565  
Old June 1st, 2016, 07:17 PM
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^^ Thanks! ^^

I dont recall my vapor tank screws being in bad shape at all (before I lost them)

The fuel tank/shield screws were a bit rusty, but not terrible.



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  #566  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 01:32 AM
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Andrew
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It's starting to look like a truck again.

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  #567  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 01:37 AM
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Indeed! Fun to follow. Almost time to get out the buffer ;-)
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  #568  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 01:48 AM
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Yeah for sure. I need to wash all the pollen off of it. I think it's from the fir trees.
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  #569  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 08:35 AM
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Don Bunnell
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That BMW mill looks quite nice in there!

Jealous of that lift.
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  #570  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 02:37 PM
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It's nice having a lift to work with.

This might be the only Defender with a secondary air injection system. I selected this newer pump (for X3 and Z4) that outputs a higher volume (45 kg/hour). It'll significantly reduce cold start emissions and it'll be convenient when I go in for emissions testing because I won't have to drive around as long waiting of the catalysts to heat up to operating temperature.

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  #571  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
It's starting to look like a truck again.


Andrew,

Looks great sir! Think she'll see the road this summer?
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  #572  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:36 PM
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Thanks. Yes, lots to do still, but I can do it.
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  #573  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 09:50 PM
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Awesome

But damn you are making me look bad.
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  #574  
Old June 8th, 2016, 05:44 PM
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New muffler.

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  #575  
Old June 14th, 2016, 10:13 PM
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I got a Bearmach aluminium centre panel to fit the round analogue clock (part BA 2706) and it has a spot for the cigarette lighter and a rear window wiper switch, but of course I want to install a hazard switch there instead of the wiper switch. So I looked around for a nice round one I could modify the hole to fit. I found this Hella one that's OEM for the Porsche 911 on Amazon Spain. It looks like I would wire it the same as the Carling switch some people install.

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  #576  
Old June 24th, 2016, 12:20 AM
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I tested 4 throttle pedals using a 12v power supply with a 5v converter. Here are the results I got. Figures shown in volts, from rest to full throttle.

Pedal #1: BMW E53 X5 3.0i (auto)
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.737 to 4.333 (4.925 with kick-down switch pushed down)
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.368 to 2.178 (2.461 with kick-down switch pushed down)

Pedal #2: Freelander 1
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.630 to 3.222
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.328 to 1.574

Pedal #3: Porsche 996
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.639 to 2.807
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.316 to 1.376

Pedal #4: Defender Puma
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.576 to 2.615
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.289 to 1.068

The X5 pedal was a little worn out. I had it leftover from when I replaced it with a new one in mom’s car. You had to press it down a little before it engaged. But it seems to return acceptable values when tested.

The Freelander 1 pedal has the same Bosch potentiometer used in the Z3 with M54. The Porsche 996 pedal has a similar Bosch potentiometer and oddly enough the connector on it says BMW. Those two were used also. Only the Defender Puma pedal was new. To be really scientific I should have used all new pedals, but that would have cost a lot of money (the older Bosch potentiometers are $400).

I selected the Porsche 996 pedal for the potentiometer because it’s activated by a cable so if I were to mount it somewhere on the truck I could use my truck’s original pedal with it. The Freelander pedal would need modification to fit properly.

I would prefer to use the Puma pedal for simplicity. From the results I think it’ll work out fine. It makes two positive slopes like the others. I’m pretty sure the ECU will adapt to the different values.
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  #577  
Old June 24th, 2016, 11:58 PM
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Very interesting. If you recall the td5 pedal has slopes with one increasing and one decreasing with values that sum to 5v.
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  #578  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Very interesting. If you recall the td5 pedal has slopes with one increasing and one decreasing with values that sum to 5v.
Yeah, it would be interesting to test one of those.


It's been a while since I posted an update. I've been really busy with working and other things so I haven't been able to work on the truck much. It's looking like it'll be autumn before it's rolling down the road (or off road). But that's okay.

I've done a few things lately. I took off the rear panels on the tub, which wasn't very difficult. I just needed to drill out the spot rivets. And I took off all the cappings; on the tub, doors, and tailgate. I'll take those and a bunch of other steel parts to get galvanized this week. It was very difficult to get the door tops off the door bottoms. I was able to get one side off by just beating the studs up with a hammer, but the other side wouldn't budge. Then we finally realized heating them up with a torch made them slide out easy.

I got a few body parts shipped over from the UK. A bonnet. The latest Td5 type with an aluminum frame. I think it'll be a shame to paint it because the Tonga Green Metallic is really nice, especially when the sun hits it, turns shimmery gold/bronze.





A front centre radiator panel. This one came off a Puma, non-A/C. It looks exactly the same as the 97 NAS. Perhaps the holes on the bottom will allow more air to flow over the radiator.



And a brand new seat base assembly.



I have all the parts I want to paint now.
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  #579  
Old July 25th, 2016, 01:36 PM
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I also got new genuine Land Rover doors and front outer wings. I noticed the aftermarket outer wings were missing the spot welds along the rear edge. I decided since the truck is a NAS it needs to have original construction, so no aftermarket body parts. Eventually I'll need to get a new tub too (along with a bulkhead).







Here are the parts I rounded up to galvanize.

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  #580  
Old August 4th, 2016, 01:34 PM
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I got my parts back from the galvanizer.

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