Andrew's Defender 90 3.0i Project - Page 29 - Defender Source
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  #561  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 12:37 AM
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David Frank
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Indeed! Fun to follow. Almost time to get out the buffer ;-)
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  #562  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 12:48 AM
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Andrew
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Yeah for sure. I need to wash all the pollen off of it. I think it's from the fir trees.
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  #563  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 07:35 AM
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Don Bunnell
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That BMW mill looks quite nice in there!

Jealous of that lift.
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  #564  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 01:37 PM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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It's nice having a lift to work with.

This might be the only Defender with a secondary air injection system. I selected this newer pump (for X3 and Z4) that outputs a higher volume (45 kg/hour). It'll significantly reduce cold start emissions and it'll be convenient when I go in for emissions testing because I won't have to drive around as long waiting of the catalysts to heat up to operating temperature.

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  #565  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 03:24 PM
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Will Hedrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
It's starting to look like a truck again.


Andrew,

Looks great sir! Think she'll see the road this summer?
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  #566  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 03:36 PM
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Andrew
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Thanks. Yes, lots to do still, but I can do it.
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  #567  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 08:50 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Awesome

But damn you are making me look bad.
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  #568  
Old June 8th, 2016, 04:44 PM
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New muffler.

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  #569  
Old June 14th, 2016, 09:13 PM
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I got a Bearmach aluminium centre panel to fit the round analogue clock (part BA 2706) and it has a spot for the cigarette lighter and a rear window wiper switch, but of course I want to install a hazard switch there instead of the wiper switch. So I looked around for a nice round one I could modify the hole to fit. I found this Hella one that's OEM for the Porsche 911 on Amazon Spain. It looks like I would wire it the same as the Carling switch some people install.

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  #570  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 11:20 PM
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I tested 4 throttle pedals using a 12v power supply with a 5v converter. Here are the results I got. Figures shown in volts, from rest to full throttle.

Pedal #1: BMW E53 X5 3.0i (auto)
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.737 to 4.333 (4.925 with kick-down switch pushed down)
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.368 to 2.178 (2.461 with kick-down switch pushed down)

Pedal #2: Freelander 1
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.630 to 3.222
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.328 to 1.574

Pedal #3: Porsche 996
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.639 to 2.807
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.316 to 1.376

Pedal #4: Defender Puma
-Hall sensor 1 (request) = 0.576 to 2.615
-Hall sensor 2 (plausibility) = 0.289 to 1.068

The X5 pedal was a little worn out. I had it leftover from when I replaced it with a new one in mom’s car. You had to press it down a little before it engaged. But it seems to return acceptable values when tested.

The Freelander 1 pedal has the same Bosch potentiometer used in the Z3 with M54. The Porsche 996 pedal has a similar Bosch potentiometer and oddly enough the connector on it says BMW. Those two were used also. Only the Defender Puma pedal was new. To be really scientific I should have used all new pedals, but that would have cost a lot of money (the older Bosch potentiometers are $400).

I selected the Porsche 996 pedal for the potentiometer because it’s activated by a cable so if I were to mount it somewhere on the truck I could use my truck’s original pedal with it. The Freelander pedal would need modification to fit properly.

I would prefer to use the Puma pedal for simplicity. From the results I think it’ll work out fine. It makes two positive slopes like the others. I’m pretty sure the ECU will adapt to the different values.
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  #571  
Old June 24th, 2016, 10:58 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Very interesting. If you recall the td5 pedal has slopes with one increasing and one decreasing with values that sum to 5v.
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  #572  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Very interesting. If you recall the td5 pedal has slopes with one increasing and one decreasing with values that sum to 5v.
Yeah, it would be interesting to test one of those.


It's been a while since I posted an update. I've been really busy with working and other things so I haven't been able to work on the truck much. It's looking like it'll be autumn before it's rolling down the road (or off road). But that's okay.

I've done a few things lately. I took off the rear panels on the tub, which wasn't very difficult. I just needed to drill out the spot rivets. And I took off all the cappings; on the tub, doors, and tailgate. I'll take those and a bunch of other steel parts to get galvanized this week. It was very difficult to get the door tops off the door bottoms. I was able to get one side off by just beating the studs up with a hammer, but the other side wouldn't budge. Then we finally realized heating them up with a torch made them slide out easy.

I got a few body parts shipped over from the UK. A bonnet. The latest Td5 type with an aluminum frame. I think it'll be a shame to paint it because the Tonga Green Metallic is really nice, especially when the sun hits it, turns shimmery gold/bronze.





A front centre radiator panel. This one came off a Puma, non-A/C. It looks exactly the same as the 97 NAS. Perhaps the holes on the bottom will allow more air to flow over the radiator.



And a brand new seat base assembly.



I have all the parts I want to paint now.
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  #573  
Old July 25th, 2016, 12:36 PM
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I also got new genuine Land Rover doors and front outer wings. I noticed the aftermarket outer wings were missing the spot welds along the rear edge. I decided since the truck is a NAS it needs to have original construction, so no aftermarket body parts. Eventually I'll need to get a new tub too (along with a bulkhead).







Here are the parts I rounded up to galvanize.

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  #574  
Old August 4th, 2016, 12:34 PM
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Andrew
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I got my parts back from the galvanizer.

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  #575  
Old August 4th, 2016, 12:56 PM
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looking good!
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  #576  
Old August 12th, 2016, 01:14 PM
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I've been trying to decide what to do about the footwell trim. At first I found some that covered them nicely (BTR5235 & BTR5236), but I preferred them to have a texture rather than smooth, so then I decided I would just use the NAS ones that cover the kick panel area only. I don't care much for the hokey cardboard trim for the driver's footwell though and I would still need to get the center section to cover fuse box area, which is quite expensive. So then I found these footwell trims from a Td5. They extend over the center fuse box area so I don't need that piece and they have the texture that matches the tunnel cover and Puma seat box cover I got. I think it'll give the interior a nice finished look. One thing a bit odd is that LR doesn't seem to list the part numbers for these footwell trims and on the various forums no one has been able to find them from what I can tell, so we assume these are NLA, but I can't confirm that. Another option I think would work would be to buy the footwell trims for the Puma (part # LR013013 for LHD, 1 piece) and also the V8 center section (ETD103270) and cut them to fit the center section since the tunnel is different. The RH Td5 trim has the place for the bonnet release, so I suppose I'll install that one.

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  #577  
Old August 12th, 2016, 01:17 PM
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barry f
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
I've been trying to decide what to do about the footwell trim. At first I found some that covered them nicely (BTR5235 & BTR5236), but I preferred them to have a texture rather than smooth, so then I decided I would just use the NAS ones that cover the kick panel area only. I don't care much for the hokey cardboard trim for the driver's footwell though and I would still need to get the center section to cover fuse box area, which is quite expensive. So then I found these footwell trims from a Td5. They extend over the center fuse box area so I don't need that piece and they have the texture that matches the tunnel cover and Puma seat box cover I got. I think it'll give the interior a nice finished look. One thing a bit odd is that LR doesn't seem to list the part numbers for these footwell trims and on the various forums no one has been able to find them from what I can tell, so we assume these are NLA, but I can't confirm that. Another option I think would work would be to buy the footwell trims for the Puma (part # LR013013 for LHD, 1 piece) and also the V8 center section (ETD103270) and cut them to fit the center section since the tunnel is different. The Td5 trim on the RH side has the place for the bonnet release, so I suppose I'll install that one.

I have these new still in package with part numbers. They are long NLA.

The puma ones wont really fit.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #578  
Old August 12th, 2016, 01:22 PM
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Okay, good to know.

------ Follow up post added August 12th, 2016 11:29 AM ------

Since they're NLA maybe I shouldn't make a cut out for the VIN sticker then. I could just remove the trim when I need to go in for emissions testing so they can read it.
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  #579  
Old August 13th, 2016, 08:06 PM
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Randy
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Are you selling a se of these? I'm looking for a pair myself
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  #580  
Old August 13th, 2016, 10:55 PM
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barry f
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Originally Posted by TDI Guy View Post
Are you selling a se of these? I'm looking for a pair myself
What are they worth?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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