Andrew's Defender 90 3.0i Project - Page 28 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #541  
Old May 20th, 2016, 05:27 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
An LT230 will run without a material amount of oil for thousands of miles. I would fill it with cheap 90wt, run it for 500 miles, drain and refill and call it a day. It is probably fine.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #542  
Old May 20th, 2016, 06:47 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,485
Okay. I'll keep my fingers crossed it's good. I don't really want to tear it apart unless I have to. I'll fill it with some cheap oil and drive it awhile & drain it out before I put the good stuff in then. I fixed the drain plug hole. I already had a M14x1.5 plug tap from Snap-On and Curt had a 1/2" drill bit. I cleaned up all the bits with q-tips. Now I just need a new drain plug. This one on Amazon, Gold Plug brand, seems to have good reviews.

Reply With Quote
  #543  
Old May 20th, 2016, 06:57 PM
RBBailey
Status: Offline
RBBailey
1965 IIa
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Damascus, Oregon
Posts: 1,580
Registry
I bought a Disco once and did my part in checking the fluids..... Except for the Lt230... It had been cleaned, and looked like it had recently been opened, and had a new gasket in it, so I didn't bother.

3 months later, it started to cease up while driving. No oil in it. The previous owner had a friend who had changed the transmission filter, but didn't know what he was doing, opened the t-case by mistake, closed it back up, and never put the oil back in. Learned my lesson. And learned that the Lt230 is pretty bulletproof as well.
__________________
Project:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1965 IIa SWB
1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #544  
Old May 20th, 2016, 07:02 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,485
Oh no! Was it okay?
Reply With Quote
  #545  
Old May 20th, 2016, 09:31 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Given the amount of build up in the case (normal), I can't imagine the bearings even rusted.

------ Follow up post added May 20th, 2016 09:33 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Oh no! Was it okay?
Even if it was not, it ran for three months without oil.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #546  
Old May 20th, 2016, 11:02 PM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Online
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 4,290
Registry
Gold Plug magnetics are nice. I now have one for my 7.3

Andrew, your LT looks pretty good from the quick view inside.
I'd do like Ron suggested and run cheap oil in it at the beginning and then change it.

We once had a ROAV club member who drove back to Virginia from WV on a few teaspoons of oil in the LT if I remember correctly...


.
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #547  
Old May 28th, 2016, 03:09 PM
Vernonk01cha
Status: Offline
Vernon
1999 LR DEFENDER 110 PU 2.8i BMW
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bryanston South Africa
Posts: 2
Hi Andrew,

Very interesting build - I own a 1999 original SA build 2.8i 110 pick up very special vehicle!

Please post an update soonest!
Reply With Quote
  #548  
Old May 28th, 2016, 03:56 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,485
Hey Vernon,
Welcome to the forum! If you'd like, post pictures of your truck in the registry. I'd love to see it.

I have just a few things left to do before I put the body back on the chassis. Then the next thing to do is the exhaust. Then paint for the new wings and doors. I'm trying to decide if I should galvanize the under-seat boxes and the tub & door cappings. My friend Curt thinks I should just leave them painted since things don't rust much here in the western states, but I think it would give it a cool retro look.
Reply With Quote
  #549  
Old May 30th, 2016, 02:13 PM
Vernonk01cha
Status: Offline
Vernon
1999 LR DEFENDER 110 PU 2.8i BMW
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bryanston South Africa
Posts: 2
My 2.8i Defender
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20160413_160537.jpg
Views:	54
Size:	72.7 KB
ID:	150574  
Reply With Quote
  #550  
Old May 30th, 2016, 02:34 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
I would galvanize them. The cappings in galvy look great on red. I would also do the inner panel to the tailgate and the NAS bumper, light bar, and tire carrier.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #551  
Old May 30th, 2016, 03:23 PM
bjf's Avatar
bjf
Status: Online
barry f
94 ST #395
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: los angeles
Posts: 10,959
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I would galvanize them. The cappings in galvy look great on red. I would also do the inner panel to the tailgate and the NAS bumper, light bar, and tire carrier.
Not a fan of doing the bumper, tire carrier, or light bar, but I do agree the capping looks great on a red nas truck.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3662389409.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	425.0 KB
ID:	150575  
__________________
Quote:
Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
Reply With Quote
  #552  
Old May 30th, 2016, 04:26 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
I agree the galvanised cappings look good on red (and blue) trucks, but I think it looks kind of goofy on a NAS truck. I would galvanise then paint.
__________________
Car Camping Collective founding member and Treasurer
Reply With Quote
  #553  
Old May 30th, 2016, 04:36 PM
bjf's Avatar
bjf
Status: Online
barry f
94 ST #395
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: los angeles
Posts: 10,959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I agree the galvanised cappings look good on red (and blue) trucks, but I think it looks kind of goofy on a NAS truck. I would galvanise then paint.
I would be worried paint wasn't done correctly. If it was mine I would paint cappings and tub separate then install with exposed rivets.
__________________
Quote:
Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
Reply With Quote
  #554  
Old May 30th, 2016, 04:47 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,530
Registry
One thing to note as someone who has recently painted their galvanized cappings: It's not easy to paint the interior of the capping. Now I know why the factory used to paint the cappings after installation on NAS Defenders - it's virtually impossible to get an HVLP gun inside the capping in a production environment.

I needed some serious fixturing to get it in a position to HVLP the interior of the capping by hand. In production, you'd have to dip-coat the cappings to paint them inside and out.
Reply With Quote
  #555  
Old May 31st, 2016, 01:23 AM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,485
Beautiful truck Vernon! I like the color.

I wouldn't paint the cappings after galvanizing them. I think they look great on the red. Thanks for the photo Barry! Not a bad idea at all to galvanize the bumper, light bar, and tire carrier. But if I do those too I think I'd have them powder coated black afterwards.

I did some little miscellaneous things today. I found out why my rear speakers never worked. A corroded connector at the bulkhead. So I replaced it.

(shown without lock plate)


(chassis harness side)


I replaced the nut plates at the rear of the tub because they were rusty. Drilled out the threads in the center one since the seat belt bracket goes behind it. Probably should have just designed the bracket to act as the nut plate. I'm not sure how that bracket is suppose to be since I've never seen one.



Some galvanic corrosion, but not so bad. I painted on the rear side between the nut plate, then I painted the nut plate (I used black on the nut plate because they're not exactly visible from outside the truck.) I dabbed a little paint on the heads of the split rivets so they don't get rusty (they already had specs of rust on them new from Rovers North. Maybe I should have used something else besides the original type, but I figured I'd keep it the way it was.)



I fixed a broken port on the fuel vapour separator with some heavy duty adhesive heat shrink (with a little tape around it to make sure the glue doesn't close it up). Is that a purge valve? Before I put it back together I tried blowing in it both ways but air wouldn't go through. Does that mean it's bad or just needs more pressure to open than I can blow? (Edit: Okay, according to the workshop manual, the pressure relief valve opens when the pressure in the separator reaches between 5 and 7 Kpa.) I'm not sure if it's related, but one time I filled the tank with gas one of the valves on top came out and gas spilled out. I hope that doesn't happen again.

Reply With Quote
  #556  
Old May 31st, 2016, 02:52 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,485
My new stainless Double 'S' exhaust just arrived from the UK. Shipping was pretty expensive for the one with the center silencer, so I got it without. I'm going to get a Stainless Works turbo chambered muffler. I listened to some videos and they seem to have a nice deep sound. Turbo Chambered Mufflers

Reply With Quote
  #557  
Old May 31st, 2016, 03:52 PM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Online
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 4,290
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post

I fixed a broken port on the fuel vapour separator with some heavy duty adhesive heat shrink (with a little tape around it to make sure the glue doesn't close it up). Is that a purge valve? Before I put it back together I tried blowing in it both ways but air wouldn't go through. Does that mean it's bad or just needs more pressure to open than I can blow? (Edit: Okay, according to the workshop manual, the pressure relief valve opens when the pressure in the separator reaches between 5 and 7 Kpa.) I'm not sure if it's related, but one time I filled the tank with gas one of the valves on top came out and gas spilled out. I hope that doesn't happen again.

^^ Andrew, what size are the 2 screws that mount the small vapor tank to the tub?? ^^


I've lost my screws AND I see yours are readily accesible

.
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #558  
Old May 31st, 2016, 04:15 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,485
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
^^ Andrew, what size are the 2 screws that mount the small vapor tank to the tub?? ^^


I've lost my screws AND I see yours are readily accesible

.
They're the same screws used on the fuel tank heat shield. Looks like they're 1/4" with a 14 thread, and 5/8" long. When I replaced the heat shield I used stainless screws and with a hex head (I had to use vice grips to get the old rusty screws out), but I think I'll reuse the mild steel ones with mylar washers for the vapour separator since it's bolted onto aluminum.
Reply With Quote
  #559  
Old June 1st, 2016, 07:17 PM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Online
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 4,290
Registry
^^ Thanks! ^^

I dont recall my vapor tank screws being in bad shape at all (before I lost them)

The fuel tank/shield screws were a bit rusty, but not terrible.



.
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #560  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 01:32 AM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,485
It's starting to look like a truck again.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Tags
90, defender, defender 90

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Andrew Howton chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 11:52 PM
Andrew Lees chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 11:44 PM
Andrew Krna chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 11:40 PM
Andrew & Jean Ward chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 5th, 2004 10:54 PM
Andrew Silcock chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 1st, 2004 11:55 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:04 PM.


Copyright