Andrew's Defender 90 3.0i Project - Page 28 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Join the Defender Source Community Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #541  
Old May 11th, 2016, 04:18 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 1,140
A bunch of new parts arrived from the UK overnight today.

Since I'm installing the Puma under-seat boxes I got the protection covers for them so the poor things aren't naked.



The heater box has some rust on it and a couple screw holes from the Diavia A/C relays in the front so I got a new one.



I wasn't going to replace the right side front inner wing assembly because it's not dented, but it suffers from some galvanic corrosion where it connects to the inner fender and chassis, so I got a new one. Now I don't have to take a hole saw to it since it already has the cut out for the NAS turn signal.



I got a new left outer wing too because I don't want to guess on where the light cutout goes.



I got the Puma battery positive terminal fuse box I think will be handy for my wiring, so I can have a cable that goes to just the starter and alternator and one that goes to everything else via the BMW fuse block.

Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #542  
Old May 11th, 2016, 05:23 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,619
Vultures descend on the old heater box in 3 2 1 ....
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #543  
Old May 17th, 2016, 02:47 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 1,140
A BMW with one of these engines hit half a million miles and still going strong.

The 500,000-Mile BMW E46 Party - Bimmerworld News, Projects & Tech
Reply With Quote
  #544  
Old May 18th, 2016, 11:41 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 1,140
Today I went to put new oil in the transfer box. I took out the fill plug and then I took out the drain plug. The drain plug came out really easy. But nothing drained out. Then I noticed the plug was really short. Then I was like oh..no.. It was broken and the rest was stuck up in there. So I got out my left hand drill bits to try to get it out. I made a little punch in the center of it, but it just pushed it in. Then a bunch of water came out. :/ Good thing I haven't sold my old transfer box yet. I know that one's good. I guess I'll see how I like it with the 1.2 ratio. Maybe I can rebuild it as a 1.4 with the gears from the bad one, if they're good. I see Ashcroft sells a gear set, but they say it might need an additional gear depending on the box, so I emailed them with the serial numbers. Then I could add the ATB too. Does that make it an easier job?
Reply With Quote
  #545  
Old May 19th, 2016, 08:18 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 1,140
I took the sump cover off the LT230 to get the piece of bolt out. It was just the magnet. The other half of the bolt was still in the hole, so I poked a flathead screwdriver into it and backed it out. The threads are still good in the upper half of the hole, but stripped in the lower half. I'm concerned about stripping them if I just put a new drain plug in there so I think I should either fix it with an insert (drain plug repair kit) or drill & tap it 14mm. I'll have to be careful since there's a gear just above it. The gears look good to me. I guess it's the bearings that could have rusted due to the water. I'm not going to say anything bad about the seller of the transfer case, but it's a shame he sold me one that's like this. Hopefully it's good still. I drained the gearbox and there was a little water in it also, but not much. Hopefully they'll work out okay until I get rebuilt ones from Ashcroft. I should have got rebuilt ones to begin with but this restoration/conversion project has already cost twice what I paid for the truck. It's a great learning experience though. Now I know don't go cheap because it'll backfire and cost more in the long run, and never buy used vehicles or parts from the east coast. My friend Curt has me repeat that last one all the time.
Reply With Quote
  #546  
Old May 20th, 2016, 05:19 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,565
Registry
Andrew, they are easy to take apart and rebuild. I'd open her up and examine everything closely. The manual shows how to check for wear and tolerances.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #547  
Old May 20th, 2016, 05:27 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,619
An LT230 will run without a material amount of oil for thousands of miles. I would fill it with cheap 90wt, run it for 500 miles, drain and refill and call it a day. It is probably fine.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #548  
Old May 20th, 2016, 06:47 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 1,140
Okay. I'll keep my fingers crossed it's good. I don't really want to tear it apart unless I have to. I'll fill it with some cheap oil and drive it awhile & drain it out before I put the good stuff in then. I fixed the drain plug hole. I already had a M14x1.5 plug tap from Snap-On and Curt had a 1/2" drill bit. I cleaned up all the bits with q-tips. Now I just need a new drain plug. This one on Amazon, Gold Plug brand, seems to have good reviews.

Reply With Quote
  #549  
Old May 20th, 2016, 06:57 PM
RBBailey
Status: Offline
RBBailey
1965 IIa
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Damascus, Oregon
Posts: 1,555
Registry
I bought a Disco once and did my part in checking the fluids..... Except for the Lt230... It had been cleaned, and looked like it had recently been opened, and had a new gasket in it, so I didn't bother.

3 months later, it started to cease up while driving. No oil in it. The previous owner had a friend who had changed the transmission filter, but didn't know what he was doing, opened the t-case by mistake, closed it back up, and never put the oil back in. Learned my lesson. And learned that the Lt230 is pretty bulletproof as well.
__________________
Project:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1965 IIa SWB
1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
Reply With Quote
  #550  
Old May 20th, 2016, 07:02 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 1,140
Oh no! Was it okay?
Reply With Quote
  #551  
Old May 20th, 2016, 09:31 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,619
Given the amount of build up in the case (normal), I can't imagine the bearings even rusted.

------ Follow up post added May 20th, 2016 09:33 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Oh no! Was it okay?
Even if it was not, it ran for three months without oil.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #552  
Old May 20th, 2016, 11:02 PM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Offline
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 3,824
Registry
Gold Plug magnetics are nice. I now have one for my 7.3

Andrew, your LT looks pretty good from the quick view inside.
I'd do like Ron suggested and run cheap oil in it at the beginning and then change it.

We once had a ROAV club member who drove back to Virginia from WV on a few teaspoons of oil in the LT if I remember correctly...


.
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #553  
Old May 28th, 2016, 03:09 PM
Vernonk01cha
Status: Offline
Vernon
1999 LR DEFENDER 110 PU 2.8i BMW
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bryanston South Africa
Posts: 2
Hi Andrew,

Very interesting build - I own a 1999 original SA build 2.8i 110 pick up very special vehicle!

Please post an update soonest!
Reply With Quote
  #554  
Old May 28th, 2016, 03:56 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 1,140
Hey Vernon,
Welcome to the forum! If you'd like, post pictures of your truck in the registry. I'd love to see it.

I have just a few things left to do before I put the body back on the chassis. Then the next thing to do is the exhaust. Then paint for the new wings and doors. I'm trying to decide if I should galvanize the under-seat boxes and the tub & door cappings. My friend Curt thinks I should just leave them painted since things don't rust much here in the western states, but I think it would give it a cool retro look.
Reply With Quote
  #555  
Old May 30th, 2016, 02:13 PM
Vernonk01cha
Status: Offline
Vernon
1999 LR DEFENDER 110 PU 2.8i BMW
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bryanston South Africa
Posts: 2
My 2.8i Defender
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20160413_160537.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	72.7 KB
ID:	150574  
Reply With Quote
  #556  
Old May 30th, 2016, 02:34 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,619
I would galvanize them. The cappings in galvy look great on red. I would also do the inner panel to the tailgate and the NAS bumper, light bar, and tire carrier.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #557  
Old May 30th, 2016, 03:23 PM
bjf's Avatar
bjf
Status: Offline
barry f
94 ST #395
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: los angeles
Posts: 10,536
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I would galvanize them. The cappings in galvy look great on red. I would also do the inner panel to the tailgate and the NAS bumper, light bar, and tire carrier.
Not a fan of doing the bumper, tire carrier, or light bar, but I do agree the capping looks great on a red nas truck.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3662389409.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	425.0 KB
ID:	150575  
__________________
Quote:
Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
Reply With Quote
  #558  
Old May 30th, 2016, 04:26 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,453
Registry
I agree the galvanised cappings look good on red (and blue) trucks, but I think it looks kind of goofy on a NAS truck. I would galvanise then paint.
__________________
Car Camping Collective founding member and Treasurer
Reply With Quote
  #559  
Old May 30th, 2016, 04:36 PM
bjf's Avatar
bjf
Status: Offline
barry f
94 ST #395
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: los angeles
Posts: 10,536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I agree the galvanised cappings look good on red (and blue) trucks, but I think it looks kind of goofy on a NAS truck. I would galvanise then paint.
I would be worried paint wasn't done correctly. If it was mine I would paint cappings and tub separate then install with exposed rivets.
__________________
Quote:
Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
Reply With Quote
  #560  
Old May 30th, 2016, 04:47 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 4,694
One thing to note as someone who has recently painted their galvanized cappings: It's not easy to paint the interior of the capping. Now I know why the factory used to paint the cappings after installation on NAS Defenders - it's virtually impossible to get an HVLP gun inside the capping in a production environment.

I needed some serious fixturing to get it in a position to HVLP the interior of the capping by hand. In production, you'd have to dip-coat the cappings to paint them inside and out.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Tags
90, defender, defender 90

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Andrew Howton chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 11:52 PM
Andrew Lees chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 11:44 PM
Andrew Krna chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 11:40 PM
Andrew & Jean Ward chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 5th, 2004 10:54 PM
Andrew Silcock chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 1st, 2004 11:55 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:23 PM.


Copyright