Andrew's Defender 90 3.0i Project - Page 27 - Defender Source
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  #521  
Old April 19th, 2016, 06:27 PM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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Today my friend Curt helped me patch up the rusty footwells on the bulkhead. We went to the metal yard and got a sheet of steel. He cut it with his plasma torch and bent them on the press with a brake he made. Then after he cut the rust out on the bulkhead, he welded them on and put vulkem on the edges. Still have to put the inner fender bracket back on the driver's side. I can see why the footwells rust out so easily. Two thin layers of metal put together and unprotected on the inside so it just rusts from within. I think it’s a relatively poor design. There was some rubber, for sound deadening I suppose, in-between the footwell layers in the lower part. It wanted to catch fire when welding. So given those characteristics of its design, I don’t think it would be a good idea to galvanize a bulkhead.



The alternator actually fits in the original spot, but it touches the P38 steering box. We could have mounted the steering box a little lower but we wanted to use the sleeved holes in the chassis. So Curt helped me make a bracket to mount the alternator up a little higher. I may just need to get a longer belt. This particular alternator has a 3rd mounting hole on the side too that’s not needed. I checked online and other alternators for this engine don’t have that 3rd mounting hole, so we cut that off too for extra space.



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  #522  
Old April 19th, 2016, 07:07 PM
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barry f
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What rubber is between the thin layers of metal in the bulkhead?

How would that be possible?
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  #523  
Old April 19th, 2016, 09:30 PM
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Charles Galpin
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maybe you had some prior work done on your footwells, but there shouldn't be any rubber sandwiched between layers of metal.

Anyway, looking good. We all should have a Curt.
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  #524  
Old April 19th, 2016, 11:18 PM
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After all that work and you did not use proper footwell repair panels ....

For shame.
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  #525  
Old April 19th, 2016, 11:37 PM
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I get the impression from Chip that this particular bulkhead is intended as a throwaway.

Probably already in his head that a new bulkhead will be going in in the future...this is probably just a temp fix to get the build finished. Classic chicken and egg problem with rebuilds, especially custom ones!
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  #526  
Old April 20th, 2016, 12:05 AM
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Oh that makes sense. It is just the proper replacement panels are a few hundred bucks and given how amazing this project is I was surprised with the scrap metal repair.
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  #527  
Old April 20th, 2016, 02:06 AM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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The footwells didn't appear to have had work done prior. They looked original with the criss cross design on the outside. I don't know why there was rubber sandwiched between the metal layers. I assume the factory built it like that.

Yeah, I want to get the truck going for summer (fingers crossed). I can get a new bulkhead later. This homemade repair should last for a while though. Definitely better than rusty holes in the floor. My friend just wanted to glue them on and use screws but I got him to weld. It was hard for him to do though because the metal is so thin. It was a good thing he bought a new welder not long ago that can do thin metal.

I wasn't aware there are proper footwell repair panels. I only know of the ones from YRM and I've heard mixed opinions on those. I believe those are just bent sheet metal. I've seen ECR has begun making replicas of the originals so maybe they can fix me up if I ever make it to Maine. I don't know what the cost of having them repair the footwells would be compared to buying a complete new bulkhead though.
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  #528  
Old April 20th, 2016, 02:07 PM
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Roversnorth sells the copies with the ribs and two separate parts as original.

http://www.roversnorth.com/Land-Rover-Parts/942
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  #529  
Old April 20th, 2016, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Roversnorth sells the copies with the ribs and two separate parts as original.

DEFENDER, FOOTWELL, FLOOR PANELS - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Those look like they just have 3 vertical ribs, so they do not look like the originals. The link for the ECR one is below. Besides the ribs, it's not any different from what we've done, except that we used a little thicker steel.

https://www.facebook.com/15474275457...type=3&theater
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  #530  
Old April 20th, 2016, 10:27 PM
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It's not like the truck is stock anyway.
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  #531  
Old April 26th, 2016, 06:50 PM
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Andrew
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We got the P38 steering drag link figured out today. We had to shorten it about 2 3/4" and move the damper bracket over 2 1/2". Curt cut it and then inserted another pipe the same size as the inside of the tube in it and then welded around it. Lemförder put a lot of weld on the damper bracket so Curt thought it'd be hard to cut it off without damaging the tube, but I had an old P38 drag link so he cut the bracket off that one and welded it onto the new one. Then he just cut the tabs off the other one. We jacked up the front end and turned the wheels all the way to make sure the damper has enough room to contract and extend fully.

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  #532  
Old May 1st, 2016, 11:04 PM
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Andrew
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I think this will work pretty good until I get a new bulkhead. I finished it up with some paint today after we replaced the feet. The bolt that goes through them was completely rusted inside, on both sides (we had to cut the bolts off with a grinder when we were dismantling it from the chassis). We tried to drill one out, but that didn't work. So I got replacement ones that we cut and welded on.

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  #533  
Old May 1st, 2016, 11:49 PM
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Sorry to criticize. It looks good. When you put the bulkhead bolts back in, slather them in antiseize.
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  #534  
Old May 2nd, 2016, 09:46 PM
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Okay, yeah I'll definitely put anti-seize on those bolts.

Today we rebuilt the rust eaten rear roll cage mounts that bolt to the crossmember. And I hooked up the fuel pump with AN fittings. Now I just have to fish the wiring through the chassis to the rear and plug in the fuel pump before we put the body back on. That's going to be a challenge.



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  #535  
Old May 4th, 2016, 03:26 PM
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Andrew
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I decided to get a new alternator (not rebuilt) to help keep issues at a minimum and I don't really like how the old one looks with that one tab cut off. This one doesn't have the 3rd tab. I found out that 3rd tab is for a different idler pulley BMW installed on certain models. The alternator was made in South Africa.

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  #536  
Old May 4th, 2016, 06:08 PM
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Good call going for a new one. I have had nothing but troubles with reman and aftermarket alternators. I would go with a known good used before I would get a reman or aftermarket.
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  #537  
Old May 5th, 2016, 06:00 PM
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Andrew
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I got a Meshtop-UV top for summer. I probably shouldn't buy things I don't need yet, but it was the very last one. (From Rovers North. I called SafariHP too, and their system showed 2 in stock, but they couldn't locate them in their inventory.) I read some people were having trouble with the hooks breaking on the bungee cords, so it's nice they sent a different kind with mine.

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  #538  
Old May 5th, 2016, 08:48 PM
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Andrew
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Someone asked me about the fittings I used for the fuel pump. I used Earl's 165056 -6AN Male to 5/16" tube fittings. They install just like the original metric fittings, so no need to use adapters. I'm pretty sure the original hoses for the 94 NAS are NLA (I can't even find them in the catalog) so I think this is a good option. For the fuel rail I'm going to use Russell's 644110 -6AN TO 5/16" hardline quick disconnect fitting. That should also work for other engines like an LS. It turns out the M54 fuel filter (with integrated pressure regulator) is the same diameter as the Land Rover filter so I can use the same bracket. The M54 fuel rail is non-return, so the return line will just go back to the tank from the filter.
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  #539  
Old May 10th, 2016, 04:43 AM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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We're making the brackets for the rear seat belts because my truck doesn't have them. Here's the one we made for the buckles to chassis (center rear). I've never seen a picture of one of these before so we just went by the illustration in the optional rear seat installation instructions from Land Rover. I'm not sure exactly what bolt size the buckles take, but the hole in the tub will accept 12mm, so we put a 12mm nut on it with a 1.25 thread I think should be good. The two brackets for the front seat belt buckle brackets at the front of the tub to the chassis were missing on my truck too. There's no evidence that they were ever installed, so I'm installing those. I was able to buy those ones though (NRC9695 & NRC9696).

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  #540  
Old May 10th, 2016, 07:41 PM
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I gave the gearbox and parking brake drum some new paint.



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