Andrew's Defender 90 3.0i Project - Page 27 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #521  
Old April 20th, 2016, 01:06 AM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
The footwells didn't appear to have had work done prior. They looked original with the criss cross design on the outside. I don't know why there was rubber sandwiched between the metal layers. I assume the factory built it like that.

Yeah, I want to get the truck going for summer (fingers crossed). I can get a new bulkhead later. This homemade repair should last for a while though. Definitely better than rusty holes in the floor. My friend just wanted to glue them on and use screws but I got him to weld. It was hard for him to do though because the metal is so thin. It was a good thing he bought a new welder not long ago that can do thin metal.

I wasn't aware there are proper footwell repair panels. I only know of the ones from YRM and I've heard mixed opinions on those. I believe those are just bent sheet metal. I've seen ECR has begun making replicas of the originals so maybe they can fix me up if I ever make it to Maine. I don't know what the cost of having them repair the footwells would be compared to buying a complete new bulkhead though.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #522  
Old April 20th, 2016, 01:07 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Roversnorth sells the copies with the ribs and two separate parts as original.

http://www.roversnorth.com/Land-Rover-Parts/942
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #523  
Old April 20th, 2016, 06:20 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Roversnorth sells the copies with the ribs and two separate parts as original.

DEFENDER, FOOTWELL, FLOOR PANELS - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Those look like they just have 3 vertical ribs, so they do not look like the originals. The link for the ECR one is below. Besides the ribs, it's not any different from what we've done, except that we used a little thicker steel.

https://www.facebook.com/15474275457...type=3&theater
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #524  
Old April 20th, 2016, 09:27 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,621
Registry
It's not like the truck is stock anyway.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #525  
Old April 26th, 2016, 05:50 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
We got the P38 steering drag link figured out today. We had to shorten it about 2 3/4" and move the damper bracket over 2 1/2". Curt cut it and then inserted another pipe the same size as the inside of the tube in it and then welded around it. Lemförder put a lot of weld on the damper bracket so Curt thought it'd be hard to cut it off without damaging the tube, but I had an old P38 drag link so he cut the bracket off that one and welded it onto the new one. Then he just cut the tabs off the other one. We jacked up the front end and turned the wheels all the way to make sure the damper has enough room to contract and extend fully.

Reply With Quote
  #526  
Old May 1st, 2016, 10:04 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
I think this will work pretty good until I get a new bulkhead. I finished it up with some paint today after we replaced the feet. The bolt that goes through them was completely rusted inside, on both sides (we had to cut the bolts off with a grinder when we were dismantling it from the chassis). We tried to drill one out, but that didn't work. So I got replacement ones that we cut and welded on.

Reply With Quote
  #527  
Old May 1st, 2016, 10:49 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Sorry to criticize. It looks good. When you put the bulkhead bolts back in, slather them in antiseize.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #528  
Old May 2nd, 2016, 08:46 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
Okay, yeah I'll definitely put anti-seize on those bolts.

Today we rebuilt the rust eaten rear roll cage mounts that bolt to the crossmember. And I hooked up the fuel pump with AN fittings. Now I just have to fish the wiring through the chassis to the rear and plug in the fuel pump before we put the body back on. That's going to be a challenge.



Reply With Quote
  #529  
Old May 4th, 2016, 02:26 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
I decided to get a new alternator (not rebuilt) to help keep issues at a minimum and I don't really like how the old one looks with that one tab cut off. This one doesn't have the 3rd tab. I found out that 3rd tab is for a different idler pulley BMW installed on certain models. The alternator was made in South Africa.

Reply With Quote
  #530  
Old May 4th, 2016, 05:08 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
Good call going for a new one. I have had nothing but troubles with reman and aftermarket alternators. I would go with a known good used before I would get a reman or aftermarket.
__________________
Car Camping Collective founding member and Treasurer
Reply With Quote
  #531  
Old May 5th, 2016, 05:00 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
I got a Meshtop-UV top for summer. I probably shouldn't buy things I don't need yet, but it was the very last one. (From Rovers North. I called SafariHP too, and their system showed 2 in stock, but they couldn't locate them in their inventory.) I read some people were having trouble with the hooks breaking on the bungee cords, so it's nice they sent a different kind with mine.

Reply With Quote
  #532  
Old May 5th, 2016, 07:48 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
Someone asked me about the fittings I used for the fuel pump. I used Earl's 165056 -6AN Male to 5/16" tube fittings. They install just like the original metric fittings, so no need to use adapters. I'm pretty sure the original hoses for the 94 NAS are NLA (I can't even find them in the catalog) so I think this is a good option. For the fuel rail I'm going to use Russell's 644110 -6AN TO 5/16" hardline quick disconnect fitting. That should also work for other engines like an LS. It turns out the M54 fuel filter (with integrated pressure regulator) is the same diameter as the Land Rover filter so I can use the same bracket. The M54 fuel rail is non-return, so the return line will just go back to the tank from the filter.
Reply With Quote
  #533  
Old May 10th, 2016, 03:43 AM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
We're making the brackets for the rear seat belts because my truck doesn't have them. Here's the one we made for the buckles to chassis (center rear). I've never seen a picture of one of these before so we just went by the illustration in the optional rear seat installation instructions from Land Rover. I'm not sure exactly what bolt size the buckles take, but the hole in the tub will accept 12mm, so we put a 12mm nut on it with a 1.25 thread I think should be good. The two brackets for the front seat belt buckle brackets at the front of the tub to the chassis were missing on my truck too. There's no evidence that they were ever installed, so I'm installing those. I was able to buy those ones though (NRC9695 & NRC9696).

Reply With Quote
  #534  
Old May 10th, 2016, 06:41 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
I gave the gearbox and parking brake drum some new paint.



Reply With Quote
  #535  
Old May 11th, 2016, 03:18 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
A bunch of new parts arrived from the UK overnight today.

Since I'm installing the Puma under-seat boxes I got the protection covers for them so the poor things aren't naked.



The heater box has some rust on it and a couple screw holes from the Diavia A/C relays in the front so I got a new one.



I wasn't going to replace the right side front inner wing assembly because it's not dented, but it suffers from some galvanic corrosion where it connects to the inner fender and chassis, so I got a new one. Now I don't have to take a hole saw to it since it already has the cut out for the NAS turn signal.



I got a new left outer wing too because I don't want to guess on where the light cutout goes.



I got the Puma battery positive terminal fuse box I think will be handy for my wiring, so I can have a cable that goes to just the starter and alternator and one that goes to everything else via the BMW fuse block.

Reply With Quote
  #536  
Old May 11th, 2016, 04:23 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Vultures descend on the old heater box in 3 2 1 ....
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #537  
Old May 17th, 2016, 01:47 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
A BMW with one of these engines hit half a million miles and still going strong.

The 500,000-Mile BMW E46 Party - Bimmerworld News, Projects & Tech
Reply With Quote
  #538  
Old May 18th, 2016, 10:41 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
Today I went to put new oil in the transfer box. I took out the fill plug and then I took out the drain plug. The drain plug came out really easy. But nothing drained out. Then I noticed the plug was really short. Then I was like oh..no.. It was broken and the rest was stuck up in there. So I got out my left hand drill bits to try to get it out. I made a little punch in the center of it, but it just pushed it in. Then a bunch of water came out. :/ Good thing I haven't sold my old transfer box yet. I know that one's good. I guess I'll see how I like it with the 1.2 ratio. Maybe I can rebuild it as a 1.4 with the gears from the bad one, if they're good. I see Ashcroft sells a gear set, but they say it might need an additional gear depending on the box, so I emailed them with the serial numbers. Then I could add the ATB too. Does that make it an easier job?
Reply With Quote
  #539  
Old May 19th, 2016, 07:18 PM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,435
I took the sump cover off the LT230 to get the piece of bolt out. It was just the magnet. The other half of the bolt was still in the hole, so I poked a flathead screwdriver into it and backed it out. The threads are still good in the upper half of the hole, but stripped in the lower half. I'm concerned about stripping them if I just put a new drain plug in there so I think I should either fix it with an insert (drain plug repair kit) or drill & tap it 14mm. I'll have to be careful since there's a gear just above it. The gears look good to me. I guess it's the bearings that could have rusted due to the water. I'm not going to say anything bad about the seller of the transfer case, but it's a shame he sold me one that's like this. Hopefully it's good still. I drained the gearbox and there was a little water in it also, but not much. Hopefully they'll work out okay until I get rebuilt ones from Ashcroft. I should have got rebuilt ones to begin with but this restoration/conversion project has already cost twice what I paid for the truck. It's a great learning experience though. Now I know don't go cheap because it'll backfire and cost more in the long run, and never buy used vehicles or parts from the east coast. My friend Curt has me repeat that last one all the time.
Reply With Quote
  #540  
Old May 20th, 2016, 04:19 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,621
Registry
Andrew, they are easy to take apart and rebuild. I'd open her up and examine everything closely. The manual shows how to check for wear and tolerances.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Tags
90, defender, defender 90

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Andrew Howton chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 10:52 PM
Andrew Lees chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 10:44 PM
Andrew Krna chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 24th, 2004 10:40 PM
Andrew & Jean Ward chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 5th, 2004 09:54 PM
Andrew Silcock chrisvonc Defender Owners 0 February 1st, 2004 10:55 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:18 PM.


Copyright