Andrew's Defender 90 3.0i Project - Page 26 - Defender Source
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  #501  
Old March 14th, 2016, 03:41 PM
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Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanleiv View Post
Hello to everyone!

Hi Andrew, awesome project and very helpful step by step guidance.
I have my Discovery 1 LHD under construction with the same engine (BMW M52 dual vanos) on R380 gearbox and i'm thinking of some issues came up...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5u...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5u...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5u...ew?usp=sharing
Hey Vangelis! Welcome to the forum!

That's very cool you are putting a BMW engine in your Disco. I made this build thread to share information & collaborate on this conversion and share my experience restoring my Defender, but I must stress that I do not intend for it to be used as a guide for others to follow. My project has evolved considerably since it’s inception, and several parts I planned on using early on will not be used. So for you or anyone else doing a similar project I ask that you please do your own research and plan carefully.

That being said, what issues are you having with your project? One thing I’d like to recommend to you is that, due to the work involved, consider installing a M54b30 rather than the M52TU because it is quite a bit more powerful and you'll enjoy the same fuel efficiency. Besides the different wiring harness and ECU, the only addition you’ll need to make is an electronic accelerator pedal. If you are not already aware, keep in mind that you’ll probably need to have your ECU flashed by a tuner to disable certain things like EWS in order for the engine to start and also for it to not enter ‘fail safe’ mode or throw trouble codes. The dual VANOS M52TU and M54 have complicated wiring and electronics, and the ECU flash could end up costing as much as you paid for the engine. So if you want to keep things simple consider installing the single VANOS M52 or S52 which requires no ECU flash as EWS for that engine can be wired or emulated easily.
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  #502  
Old March 15th, 2016, 01:44 AM
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Vangelis Leivaditis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Hey Vangelis! Welcome to the forum!

That's very cool you are putting a BMW engine in your Disco. I made this build thread to share information & collaborate on this conversion and share my experience restoring my Defender, but I must stress that I do not intend for it to be used as a guide for others to follow. My project has evolved considerably since it’s inception, and several parts I planned on using early on will not be used. So for you or anyone else doing a similar project I ask that you please do your own research and plan carefully.

That being said, what issues are you having with your project? One thing I’d like to recommend to you is that, due to the work involved, consider installing a M54b30 rather than the M52TU because it is quite a bit more powerful and you'll enjoy the same fuel efficiency. Besides the different wiring harness and ECU, the only addition you’ll need to make is an electronic accelerator pedal. If you are not already aware, keep in mind that you’ll probably need to have your ECU flashed by a tuner to disable certain things like EWS in order for the engine to start and also for it to not enter ‘fail safe’ mode or throw trouble codes. The dual VANOS M52TU and M54 have complicated wiring and electronics, and the ECU flash could end up costing as much as you paid for the engine. So if you want to keep things simple consider installing the single VANOS M52 or S52 which requires no ECU flash as EWS for that engine can be wired or emulated easily.
Hi there,

of course is a different project but similar too...
Thanks for the engine type advise but i prefer the 2,8lt without the electric accelerator and dual vanos for lower rev torque.
Good luck to us!
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  #503  
Old March 15th, 2016, 02:02 AM
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Andrew
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Okay. I couldn't tell what your issues were by looking at your pictures. I agree that's a good way to keep your stock accelerator pedal, but keep in mind the M52TU does not have a mechanical throttle. It's electronic like the M54. The difference is that the potentiometers are located on the throttle motor rather than on the pedal. So the throttle cable actuates the potentiometers which send signals to the ECU which then controls the throttle.
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  #504  
Old March 21st, 2016, 08:09 PM
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Here's what my Z4M cooling fan looks like on my new radiator. It has a list price of $793.52...



Here's the Z3 ECU box. It's a bit bigger than I thought it would be. Hopefully it'll fit in the engine bay okay. I'm going to put it where the windshield washer fluid reservoir is. I'll get the Puma version that mounts on the left side wheel arch. That little fan goes in the bottom to help keep things cool.



Here's a nice little B+ Junction I'm going to install. That will be nice for jump starts & charging, and it has additional terminals I can connect other things to that need power. And I decided to wire the engine following the power distribution diagrams in the Z3 ETM so I got the Z3 fuse terminal block. A larger 200A amp fuse will go between it and the battery/alternator/starter.

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  #505  
Old March 31st, 2016, 01:14 PM
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I installed a new water pump, thermostat, and intake air distrubutor. I made a hose to attach the M56 valve cover to the M54 air distributor so that the hose that goes to the other side of the air distributor can stay intact, so that there'll be equal pressures across the intake. I used a copper 3/4" 90 degree elbow linked to the hoses with some 3/4" heater hose. I cut the original hoses so that there was the fitting part inside still so that I could tighten the hose clamp onto without crushing the hose. At first I tried heating the hose with a heat gun with the intent of sliding it off and then onto the other fitting, but it just melted and came apart.



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  #506  
Old March 31st, 2016, 02:13 PM
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If you must use hose clamps, please use AWAB ones. There are barbed elbows available that are way more secure than a sweat elbow.
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  #507  
Old March 31st, 2016, 05:20 PM
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Okay, I'll revise it using a barbed elbow and some 1" heavy wall 3:1 adhesive heat shrink tubing.
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  #508  
Old March 31st, 2016, 07:33 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Just go to your local auto parts store and find a random piece of hose the right diameter with an elbow.
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  #509  
Old April 1st, 2016, 12:18 AM
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I have to re-use the special quick-connect fittings. I got a 3/4" barbed brass elbow from Home Depot and mated it with the heavy duty heat shrink. I think it's better now.





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  #510  
Old April 1st, 2016, 03:48 PM
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Hi,

I'm thinkin to do the same in a Series 2A chasis, M54 + R380. Right now I'm working in the frame, welding and putting in place, then I will install a discovery axles with brake discs. Car was build in 1966 with a 2-1/4 diesel engine.

As far as understood I have to take a bellhousing from 2.5 diesel P38, but what about engine side? Will match the same plate installed in the 2.5bmw p38? and the kit clutch? and the slave cilinder? here it's easy to have p38 diesel parts but I don't know if M54 and 2500 p38 engine have the same plates between engine and gearbox. Can you help me on this?

Them probably I will have a problem of space in the engine bay, I have to measure a M54...

thank's in advance to everybody for your help

Best regards

Joan
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  #511  
Old April 1st, 2016, 04:35 PM
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Welcome to the forum Joan! The bellhousing parts, clutch, and flywheel have been discussed in this thread. You'll have to read a few pages back. The rear piece of the bellhousing is different between the P38 2.5 diesel and the Defender 2.8i. I compared them in pictures in this thread. Whichever you use will dictate which input shaft for the R380 you need, and also which pilot bushing or bearing. P38 2.5 diesel uses a unique input shaft, but a standard BMW pilot bearing. Defender 2.8i uses a standard 300Tdi input shaft, but a unique Oilite bronze pilot bushing. Both use the same clutch (Valeo), dual mass flywheel (LuK), and slave cylinder. I listed the part numbers for those parts in this thread. Good reading, good researching, and good luck!

Kind regards,
Andrew
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  #512  
Old April 1st, 2016, 05:00 PM
saharien
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Welcome to the forum Joan! The bellhousing parts, clutch, and flywheel have been discussed in this thread. You'll have to read a few pages back. The rear piece of the bellhousing is different between the P38 2.5 diesel and the Defender 2.8i. I compared them in pictures in this thread. Whichever you use will dictate which input shaft for the R380 you need, and also which pilot bushing or bearing. P38 2.5 diesel uses a unique input shaft, but a standard BMW pilot bearing. Defender 2.8i uses a standard 300Tdi input shaft, but a unique Oilite bronze pilot bushing. Both use the same clutch (Valeo), dual mass flywheel (LuK), and slave cylinder. I listed the part numbers for those parts in this thread. Good reading, good researching, and good luck!

Kind regards,
Andrew
Thanks Andrew! I missed some pages of the post, sorry! now it's ok. Once I start I will post
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  #513  
Old April 4th, 2016, 02:50 PM
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I got my rear step bumper installed. It was kind of a PITA, lol. At first, I wasn’t sure how to slide it on far enough to put the 4 upper bolts in because the fuel tank tray was sticking out too far. I guess it tried to flatten out a bit when it was galvanized. So I held up each side with two floor jacks and pieces of wood. That worked. But then the 2 lower bolt holes on the fuel tank mountings didn’t line up. Maybe they’re a little off now since we replaced the rear crossmember. I finally got bolts in them after using a floor jack to push up the rear of the bumper and prying on it.



Thanks to Brian Kandefer for the special washers.



A bunch of parts arrived from the UK today.

My brake pedal is wobbly side to side, plus the box is kinda rusty, so I got a new one. It’s nice and firm. I got a new servo to go with it. I’m not sure if I actually need a new one of those but the old one is old and kinda rusty. Now every single part of the braking system will be new.



I’ve been researching the accelerator pedal a bit and it looks like the pedal for the Puma operates the same as a BMW pedal, so I got one of those to test. Hopefully that works out because it was quite expensive. A funny thing about it is that it was made in the USA, which sort of makes sense I suppose since the Puma engine is Ford.



The lower portion of the steering column and the lower mounting bracket is pretty rusty, and probably needs the bearings replaced, so I got a new one. The UK/ROW catalogue shows shims (packing pieces) between the bulkhead and the lower mounting bracket. The NAS catalogue doesn’t show that and they don’t seem to be present on my truck, so I didn’t order them.



I’m relocating the windscreen washer reservoir so here’s the Puma version.



I think my dash moulding will have holes in it after I take off the Diavia A/C controls, and it’s kinda dingy looking, so I got a new one in dark granite color. It’s for XA and newer trucks (NLA for older trucks), so hopefully there aren’t any major differences.



I got new runners for rebuilding my front seats. My old ones are kinda rusty and are difficult to slide. Maybe they’re serviceable, but I decided it’s probably better to just start fresh.



I got new seat belts for the front seats. The plastic on the upper mount of my old ones is all cracked and they’re old so I decided they should be replaced. Safety first.

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  #514  
Old April 5th, 2016, 07:54 AM
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Where'd you get the seat runners? Both of mine are cracked.
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  #515  
Old April 5th, 2016, 01:07 PM
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Where'd you get the seat runners? Both of mine are cracked.
Safari sells them
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #516  
Old April 5th, 2016, 02:58 PM
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Andrew
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Where'd you get the seat runners? Both of mine are cracked.
I got them from lrdirect.com. I ordered HHD102280 (RH) and HHD102290 (LH). They're supplied by Britpart, but they seem to be good quality.

If you want genuine LR for about $200 more, they are LR045271 (RH) and LR045272 (LH).
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  #517  
Old April 5th, 2016, 03:03 PM
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Safari sells them

Steven mentioned to me on Facebook or on here that he probably had some, but never got back to me when I messaged him.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
I got them from lrdirect.com. I ordered HHD102280 (RH) and HHD102290 (LH). They're supplied by Britpart, but they seem to be good quality.

If you want genuine LR for about $200 more, they are LR045271 (RH) and LR045272 (LH).


Yeah I saw Rovers North has them for around $350 or so which is half way to new seats! I'll see about getting a set from the UK.
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  #518  
Old April 5th, 2016, 03:48 PM
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Mine were made by exmoor.. Or at least branded.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #519  
Old April 5th, 2016, 04:08 PM
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I don't think Exmoor sells them anymore. At least I can't find them on their site.
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  #520  
Old April 14th, 2016, 02:04 PM
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My friend Curt helped me make a bracket for the P38 steering box and the panhard rod.

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