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  #441  
Old September 20th, 2015, 09:06 PM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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I just used Rustoleum engine enamel since its gas & oil resistant. I primed first though with self etching primer.
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  #442  
Old September 27th, 2015, 05:01 PM
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Starting to come together.
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  #443  
Old September 27th, 2015, 05:16 PM
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Nice Chip - looking good!
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  #444  
Old September 27th, 2015, 05:19 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Nice. You are putting me to shame, but nice!
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  #445  
Old October 3rd, 2015, 01:47 PM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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I was ordering some wiring parts from Mouser, so I decided to order the connectors for the NAS lights too. I wasn't sure if they are Econoseal III or Econoseal J, but since the replacement connectors the LR vendors sell have the yellow lock plate I decided they are Econoseal J. Although I'm sure either will probably work fine since they're both 070 series.

So here's the info I came up with:

Econoseal J [MarkII(+)] 070 series connectors for front and rear NAS lights.
Light sockets: 2 pin = XBP100180. 3 pin = XBP100180.
2-pin = Turn signals (F+R) and reverse lights. Connector housing TE part # 174352-2. Yellow lock plate: 174353-7.
3-pin = Tail/Stop lights. Connector housing TE part # 174357-2. Yellow lock plate: 174358-7.
Wire = 0.75–1.00 mm2 (18–17 AWG). Contact part # 171662 (cut strip) or 173707-1 (loose piece). Wire seal = 172888-2 (style C) or 176886-2 (style D).

I ordered the style C wire seal because it was cheaper. It doesn't look like there's much of a difference between them. Probably doesn’t matter. The catalog lists both for that contact.

Came out to about $3 per light.
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  #446  
Old October 7th, 2015, 04:55 PM
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This just arrived from Germany! BMW special tool 11 2 170. Now I can put my flywheel on. Well, I could have before of course (last time I held a flywheel in place using a crow bar), but I thought this would be nice to have and I want to do things correctly. This tool is also available from Land Rover. It’s special tool LRT-12-106 (303-910).
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  #447  
Old October 7th, 2015, 05:04 PM
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You need an impact wrench.
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  #448  
Old October 7th, 2015, 05:05 PM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
You need an impact wrench.
Got one.
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  #449  
Old October 7th, 2015, 06:44 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
I was ordering some wiring parts from Mouser, so I decided to order the connectors for the NAS lights too. I wasn't sure if they are Econoseal III or Econoseal J, but since the replacement connectors the LR vendors sell have the yellow lock plate I decided they are Econoseal J. Although I'm sure either will probably work fine since they're both 070 series.

So here's the info I came up with:

Econoseal J [MarkII(+)] 070 series connectors for front and rear NAS lights.
Light sockets: 2 pin = XBP100180. 3 pin = XBP100180.
2-pin = Turn signals (F+R) and reverse lights. Connector housing TE part # 174352-2. Yellow lock plate: 174353-7.
3-pin = Tail/Stop lights. Connector housing TE part # 174357-2. Yellow lock plate: 174358-7.
Wire = 0.75–1.00 mm2 (18–17 AWG). Contact part # 171662 (cut strip) or 173707-1 (loose piece). Wire seal = 172888-2 (style C) or 176886-2 (style D).

I ordered the style C wire seal because it was cheaper. It doesn't look like there's much of a difference between them. Probably doesn’t matter. The catalog lists both for that contact.

Came out to about $3 per light.

I think the NAS lights are Econoseal III. I ordered both and the Econoseal J's will work but they are a little different. AMP Econoseal III's are used in a bunch of other areas too like the speed sender off the T-Case.

This is the place I found the Econoseal III pieces: Connector Kits
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  #450  
Old October 7th, 2015, 11:45 PM
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Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
I think the NAS lights are Econoseal III. I ordered both and the Econoseal J's will work but they are a little different. AMP Econoseal III's are used in a bunch of other areas too like the speed sender off the T-Case.

This is the place I found the Econoseal III pieces: Connector Kits
Okay, yeah looking at them now I think you're right. If the ones I ordered don't work I'll try the others.
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  #451  
Old October 8th, 2015, 12:54 PM
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Andrew
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They got here. They are nice little connectors. I looked in my receipts and I did buy an Econoseal III connector for the speed transducer. When I find it in my pile of parts I'll try plugging each in and see which works better. I think they'll fit the same though. The dimensions are the same according to the data sheet.
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  #452  
Old October 8th, 2015, 02:59 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
They got here. They are nice little connectors. I looked in my receipts and I did buy an Econoseal III connector for the speed transducer. When I find it in my pile of parts I'll try plugging each in and see which works better. I think they'll fit the same though. The dimensions are the same according to the data sheet.
Let us know - I remember them being a little off but still worked. Could be slight variations from suppliers as well.
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  #453  
Old October 17th, 2015, 12:25 AM
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Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90Overkill View Post
Get these. I have a pair. Best waterproof speakers on the planet. Period. Cut out is 4.75 and will save you the agony of butchering your plastic ;-)

https://www.rocktheboatmarinestereo.com/html/38561.html
Thanks David for the speaker recommendation. I decided to get the Hybrid Audio Imagine I51-2V2. They're waterproof and they're a perfect fit!

Also, I decided to get a brand new M56 valve cover. It's expensive, but I want to try to eliminate as many potential problems as I can. Guys on the e46fanatics forum theorized the CCV on it could be replaced by one for an N62 since BMW sells it as an individual replacement item, but no one has confirmed it yet, so I may try doing that on the used one and put it on another car. And of course I had to get a brand new beauty cover. Now my engine won't seem so ugly.

Also, I may have gone over this before, but the Defender 2.8i uses an E36 M52 oil pan so an M52TU/M54 oil pan from a Z3 (which is an E36) should be the correct pan for me to use assuming the Defender 2.8i’s oil pan wasn’t modified (some people have said it is, but the part # is the same). So today I attempted swapping the Z3 oil pan onto my engine from a spare M52TU we have, and of course the matching oil pickup tube, but the oil pump & deflector assembly the pickup tube bolts to is a different design. So then I figured I'd just swap that too, but I discovered my 06 X3 engine has 8 triangle shaped reinforcement brackets bolted to the main bearing caps and the 99 Z3 engine doesn't so the oil pump & deflector assembly from the Z3 engine won't bolt on. I could just unbolt them but the BMW technical information system says the bolts need to be replaced and torqued to a particular angle (because they stretch). So I went on realoem.com and I found out I just need to order a new pickup tube because they changed to the different oil pump & deflector assembly with the addition of the crankcase reinforcement brackets in Jan of 2000. So that's a relief.



And got the gas tank in with a new fuel pump assembly. It ended up being a nice tight fit, so we did good bending the new tub support brackets. And I saved the little foam things that go on the sides of the frame and glued them back on.

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  #454  
Old October 17th, 2015, 06:57 AM
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Is it just me or is the magnet structure on those speakers really deep? Those fit alright without interfering with the roll cage and/or seatbelt mount on the C pillar of the cage?
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  #455  
Old October 17th, 2015, 11:28 AM
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Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Is it just me or is the magnet structure on those speakers really deep? Those fit alright without interfering with the roll cage and/or seatbelt mount on the C pillar of the cage?
I hope they don't interfere with the seatbelt/roll cage. It'll be a while before I get to installing them. They're 69.5mm (2.736 inches) deep from the back of the front lip to the back of the magnet. The DC Gold N5R speakers David recommended are 2.8 inches deep, so if those fit, these will.
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  #456  
Old November 5th, 2015, 08:58 PM
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Andrew
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A friend helped me turn the pilot bushing today (lower right in photo). Thanks to Jean from SA who shared the dimensions. I also had the P38 M51 pilot bearing for OD (upper left in photo) and the 300Tdi pilot bushing for ID (middle upper left in photo). I found a stock Oilite bronze bush about the correct size (32mm OD, 22mm ID, 20mm length (lower left in photo)) so the ID just had to be enlarged a little and then the step cut on the end. Hopefully it'll work out good. He also made a tool to install it (upper right in photo).

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  #457  
Old November 7th, 2015, 12:25 AM
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Andrew
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Got the pilot bush installed.



And the new DMF. It got a little surface rust on it just from sitting in it's box in the garage... Oh well.



And the clutch installed.



But then I ran into an unexpected problem installing the clutch housing. The bolt holes do not line up with the bolt holes on the oil pan. The oil pan has 3 rear bolt holes and the clutch housing has 4 bolt holes for the oil pan. So I went online to do a little research and the clutch housing was of course designed for the M51 engine (P38 diesel) so I looked up the oil pan for that and it has 4 rear bolt holes. The LR parts catalogue lists the oil pan for the Defender 2.8i to be the same one installed on a M52 engine in the E36 and Z3. That oil pan (BMW part # 11131748755 (LR part # omits first 4 digits)) is basically the same as the one I'm using (BMW part # 11131437001) and has 3 rear bolt holes, but according to the parts catalogue the Defender 2.8i uses the same clutch housing (FTC4461). So I'm not sure if one of those parts listed in the catalogue is actually wrong or LR/BMW decided to leave the oil pan unbolted from the clutch housing on the Defender 2.8i. I figure the 4 12mm bolts to the engine block probably do provide enough strength. The bolts to the oil pan are only 8 mm. I think I'm going to drill and tap holes in the oil pan for the 2 outer bolts though. I can't drill the lower middle one as the sump is there.

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  #458  
Old November 7th, 2015, 01:35 PM
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Andrew
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I've been able to confirm the clutch housing on the Defender 2.8i does not bolt to the oil pan. The parts catalogue is therefore correct. So I guess I won't try drilling and tapping a couple holes in the pan as the 2.8i project's engineer(s) decided the 4 bolts to the engine block are sufficient. It is still odd though that they did not design a new clutch housing for the petrol engine because they did make a 2.8i specific rear bellhousing piece. I'm guessing it was a decision made due to budget or time constraints. Odder still though why BMW made 2 different bellhousing bolt patterns.
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  #459  
Old December 1st, 2015, 07:09 PM
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Got the engine & drivetrain on the chassis.



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  #460  
Old December 1st, 2015, 07:58 PM
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Will Hedrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Got the engine & drivetrain on the chassis.
Awesome sir! Keep up the good work!
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