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  #301  
Old July 7th, 2015, 01:51 AM
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Andrew
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Atakan, here's a good deal. It's a 94 110 converted to a full 2.8i in 2000. Looks like it has a galvanized chassis too, or at least a galv rear crossmember. It's only $5000 usd. That's a lot less than you'd spend putting an M54 in your current rig. It's located in the northern suburbs of Cape Town (Brackenfell).
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  #302  
Old July 7th, 2015, 06:13 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Although it's on the same continent, Nairobi isn't exactly close to Cape Town!
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  #303  
Old July 8th, 2015, 01:18 AM
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Hey Andrew,
That's a sweet deal! I'm miles and miles away from Cape Town but that wouldn't even be the biggest issue. Our laws don't allow importation of cars older than 2008. Unless I could get the guy to break it into bits and get it in as parts it won't work. That was the first option I investigated, to buy a complete unit.
I have only being able to find two 2.8i that found their way into Kenya and for good reasons no offer I made was enough, the chaps simply won't sell.
driving a 2.8i is a very unique feel. I just couldn't get used to how quiet and vibration free the rig is, every time i stopped I had to rev the engine to check if the car is still running. I did about 100 miles in it. They cruise effortlessly (it had the 1.2 transfer) and bolt off the line. Didn't do any offroad as the owner is a little too sensitive about the car.
what do you estimate the cost of the conversion is coming to for you? In terms of parts. Perhaps I can convince the guy to ship the car in bits if I will be making a substantial saving.
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  #304  
Old July 8th, 2015, 03:56 PM
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Andrew
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Hey Atakan,
I didn't know about Kenya's importation laws. That makes sense now why it's a better option for you to do the conversion. I've spent probably about $15k so far in parts, but my project has become more of a restoration rather than just an engine swap. For just the M54 conversion you need the following, with approximate prices:
-Engine: $2000 for a low mileage unit (~60k or less miles) (Can come from any model BMW. Generally newer is better of course. The last year was 2006. Probably best to install a Z3 M54 oil pan (and matching oil pump pickup tube) as the Defender 2.8i used the E36 oil pan (the M52 Z3 had the same oil pan as it’s based on the E36 (same subframe)))
-Engine wiring harness (the M54 has 3 separate harness sections (main, ignition coil, trans/oxygen sensor). Plus you'll need to make a 4th harness to adapt that wiring to your truck's wiring): $200 (I'm using a Z3 main harness because it reaches farther than an E46 harness (from a 2001-2002 Z3 3.0i)
-ECU (MS43): $100-200.
-ECU flash to disable DSC, CANbus, etc: $500-600 (Ideally use a Z3 ECU as the Z3 didn’t have a K-bus just in case your tuner can’t disable EWS, that way you can wire it if needed)
-Exhaust manifolds and exhaust system: ~$1000
-M54 accessories such as alternator, power steering pump, starter, an also A/C compressor if you’re keeping/installing A/C: ~$500
-Various small bits such as fan & fan clutch, radiator and heater hoses, fuel filter & fuel pressure regulator assembly, fuel hoses & fittings as necessary, nuts & bolts etc: ~$500
-The 1999+ 2.8i had a BMW E39 528i ‘hot climate’ aluminum radiator (It’s probably part number 17111740699, which is what I bought (Nissens 60607A on Amazon UK): ~$100. It's unknown what the part number is for the genuine fan shroud/cowl (the parts catalogue lists a part number but I believe that's for the 1998 and older LR brass radiator.) It's a very rare part so will have to make my own or find a BMW version that works.
-Flywheel (LUK 415006810): $900 (I advise to only install a new flywheel as it should be replaced every other clutch change.)
-Clutch kit (Valeo 624213300): $200
-Bellhousing, rear piece (LR part # FTC4461. Same as P38 RR diesel.): ~$200 second hand (they usually include the fork and other mall bits but those are an additional cost if not) (replace fork roll pins (2): FTC1692)
-Bellhousing, front piece (part # 2943111): difficult to put a price on (very rare part - 2.8i specific) (It is not the same part as the P38 RR diesel version FTC3424. I compared them in pictures farther back in this thread.)
-2.8i engine mounts, Right is part # 2943114, Left is part # 2943113: difficult to put a price on (One of mine was second hand and one was new from LR SA, so perhaps they can still be ordered from an SA parts supplier.) (very rare parts - 2.8i specific) (The rubber mounts are the same as the V8.)
-R380 gearbox from a 300Tdi Defender: ~$500-1000 second hand
-2.8i pilot bushing, made from oilite bronze, part # 2943112. Will have to make one.
-The 2.8i also has a transmission oil cooler, which I haven't looked into installing.

For original 2.8i air cleaner & intake setup:
-Donaldson FPG RadialSeal # G070009 (John Deere part # RE58919, includes filter RE508449 (Donaldson P772579)): $150
-Wing ducts: water separator to air cleaner air intake part # 2943312 & air intake-air cleaner part # 2943311: difficult to put a price on (very rare parts - 2.8i specific)
-2.8i/200Tdi left outer wing (plus grill etc): ~$200
-The part number and supplier for the large diameter ribbed rubber intake hose from the air cleaner to the mass air flow sensor is unknown. The 2.8i prototypes had a smaller diameter (3”) regular non-ribbed hose (pictured on the archived LR SA website). I may install a 3.5” hose with reducers on either side.
-The hose from the air ducts to the air cleaner is also unknown, but a regular 3” rubber hose can probably be used.

That’s all the parts I can think of right now off the top of my head. Adding that up it comes out to between $8k-9k, so I think if you budget for $10k you'd be good, not including any costs for labor of course.
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  #305  
Old July 8th, 2015, 05:32 PM
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Hey Andrew,
What a long post hehe. But this is the information I so desperately needed! I just got indoors and flying a little high at the moment, as we were having a birthday drink for friend but will scrutinise in detail tomorrow. I can see why the "car for sale" works out as a better deal, but getting it in here would be a very illegal set of manoeuvres (not that it's impossible in Kenya). The S52 also peeked my interest as it has more or less the same bhp outputs as the M54? I'm no mechanic so will age to run this through my mechanic tomorrow.
Now when can we see your M54 mounted and running? Your build thread is one of the best yet and can't wait to see the results!??? Will you have a provision for ABS braking in your setup?
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  #306  
Old July 8th, 2015, 06:12 PM
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Hey Atakan,
Cheers to your friend! The S52 makes a little more power than the M54b30, but at a slightly higher rpm. The M54's dual vanos helps it make more power at lower rpm and it's also slightly more efficient. Here's a comparison of the US Gov't's mpg ratings between the S52 and M54 in the same chassis (Z3 coupe).



I plan to have my engine running before autumn. I will not be installing ABS.
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  #307  
Old July 9th, 2015, 10:19 PM
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New rear axle.

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  #308  
Old July 10th, 2015, 02:10 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
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New rear axle.
Wait a sec - where's the axle?
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  #309  
Old July 10th, 2015, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Wait a sec - where's the axle?


When I was peeling off the undercoating I uncovered a hole in my old one. I decided the simplest solution was to just get another one. It came from a 95 Disco. Based on the parts catalogue it's exactly the same, well the same as the one on a 97 Defender since it has ABS sensors. Do you know if they sell blanking plugs for those? It has a 3 bolt diff flange on it so I'll just need to put a 4 bolt flange on it. I found this nice little tutorial on how to do it.

Here's a pic of the hole. I'll sell it for $150. Local pickup only. I'll put it in the classifieds after I get it out from under the chassis.

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  #310  
Old July 10th, 2015, 03:35 PM
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I ordered a new Lemförder ball joint for it and new bushings for the top links. Among other things I got new U joints for the driveshafts. I got Meyle brand (514 814 0002). I figured that's a good German brand. I found them using Volvo part # 1209814, but they have the LR part number on the box (RTC3458).

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  #311  
Old July 10th, 2015, 04:29 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
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Do you know if they sell blanking plugs for those?
ROTFL

Let me see a pic of the ABS sensor hole, but I suspect it's like an RRC, in which case I've got you covered.
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  #312  
Old July 10th, 2015, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
ROTFL

Let me see a pic of the ABS sensor hole, but I suspect it's like an RRC, in which case I've got you covered.
I'm not out there right now to take a picture, but it is the same as the RRC.
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  #313  
Old July 10th, 2015, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
When I was peeling off the undercoating I uncovered a hole in my old one. I decided the simplest solution was to just get another one. It came from a 95 Disco. Based on the parts catalogue it's exactly the same, well the same as the one on a 97 Defender since it has ABS sensors. Do you know if they sell blanking plugs for those? It has a 3 bolt diff flange on it so I'll just need to put a 4 bolt flange on it. I found this nice little tutorial on how to do it. Here's a pic of the hole. I'll sell it for $150. Local pickup only. I'll put it in the classifieds after I get it out from under the chassis.
Haha - I was just messing with you on the selfie shot. That dude in the back looks stoked!

You could just weld on a sewer cap on the old axle. Are you going thru it before installing?

Gaplin's ABS plugs are slick. I still need to install the set I got - I am using Disco axles as well on my build (but with Toyota 3rd members)
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  #314  
Old July 11th, 2015, 03:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Haha - I was just messing with you on the selfie shot. That dude in the back looks stoked!

You could just weld on a sewer cap on the old axle. Are you going thru it before installing?

Gaplin's ABS plugs are slick. I still need to install the set I got - I am using Disco axles as well on my build (but with Toyota 3rd members)
I didn't want to try welding on it. The metal is so thin there that my friend's welder would just burn through. So that's why I just got another one. I don't really want to open up the replacement diff. Hopefully it's all good. I'll put some Amsoil Severe Gear in it.

I'd love a set of those ABS plugs.
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  #315  
Old July 11th, 2015, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
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I didn't want to try welding on it. The metal is so thin there that my friend's welder would just burn through. So that's why I just got another one. I don't really want to open up the replacement diff. Hopefully it's all good. I'll put some Amsoil Severe Gear in it. I'd love a set of those ABS plugs.
Yeah, that Disco axle should be fine - throw some good oil in there like you said. Looks like you have plenty of other stuff to work on!

And the sewer caps should be big enough to go to the thick metal. Unless that is corroded out? Those stock diff covers are thin so not surprised they get roached. Was just throwing the sewer cap as an option if you wanted to keep it as a back up.
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  #316  
Old July 11th, 2015, 09:29 AM
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To be clear, the metal is plenty thick on the housing. You cut off the dome portion of the cap and replace the whole thing with a sewer cap end. But you have another axle now, so I guess no worries.

I'll print up some plugs for you tonight or tomorrow. Will just need an address to ship them to.

Don, stick yours in to make sure mine aren't unique in some way before I print up another set. I'd put a little grease on the o-rings before inserting.
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  #317  
Old July 11th, 2015, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
To be clear, the metal is plenty thick on the housing. You cut off the dome portion of the cap and replace the whole thing with a sewer cap end. But you have another axle now, so I guess no worries. I'll print up some plugs for you tonight or tomorrow. Will just need an address to ship them to. Don, stick yours in to make sure mine aren't unique in some way before I print up another set. I'd put a little grease on the o-rings before inserting.
Lol - Thoughts of you welding a front diff cover at Rausch some years ago in the dirt just before going into the trails just popped into my mind. Thinking it was Huf's yellow NAS?

Will try later tonight if I can on the plugs - I've been meaning to. At the ER with one of the kids then off to lax tourney with another later today. These damn kids get in the way with wrench time, haha.
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  #318  
Old July 11th, 2015, 10:04 PM
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I found this tutorial on how to install the sewer cap. It looks like a nice little project. I'll let whoever buys my old axle do that.
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  #319  
Old July 12th, 2015, 09:04 PM
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Can't post pics in PMs, so here is a shot of the plugs. Sorry, the uber rare yellow are no longer available .

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Quote:
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I'd love a set of those ABS plugs.
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  #320  
Old July 13th, 2015, 03:03 AM
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Can't post pics in PMs, so here is a shot of the plugs. Sorry, the uber rare yellow are no longer available .

Attachment 124890
Oh nice.
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