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  #261  
Old May 7th, 2015, 01:12 PM
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Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atakan View Post
Hey,
Andrew. really following keenly on your rebuild. rebuilding my first defender ('85 V8 3,5 90) and i am basically waiting to hear what happens with the M54 as i desperately want to go the BMW way, i was satisfied with the M52 but then i stumbled upon this thread
I haven't heard about the engine swap lately on your thread? any updates on that?

regards,
Ak
Hey Ak,
Welcome to the forum! I have been so busy trying to finish up work here I haven't had time to get back to work on my truck yet. I am planning on going over today. Hopefully by next month I will have it running. I'll be posting updates soon. When I get to the wiring I'll post info on that as well.

Best regards,
Andrew
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  #262  
Old May 7th, 2015, 01:27 PM
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Look at this. 1 day shipping from Great Britain! Under seat tool and battery boxes. They're for the Puma and have the updated battery mounting. Rather than using a J hook the battery sits on it's own little tray and mounts with a clamp just like on a BMW (they appear to be the same parts actually). Here's the part numbers below in case anyone else needs to order them. I ordered from lrdirect.com. I ordered the clamp and bolt from BMW since they were a little cheaper.

Under seat tool box: AWH710020
Under seat battery box: LR012214 or LR066517
-battery tray: YJC500060
-battery clamp: LR009109 or BMW 61217631587
-bolt for clamp: YJH500020 or BMW 61217577620, or 07147211160 (I ordered this last one, which is the new short style)
-venting tube: LR031919

It appears the correct battery size the Puma trucks use is 49 (H8) (Euro size 019), just like many BMW's.

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  #263  
Old May 20th, 2015, 07:34 PM
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Making some progress. Got the body off of the chassis.

Those bolts were sure rusty. Most of them broke off. We had to use a grinder to cut off the lower bulkhead bolts and one of the rear roll cage support bracket bolts.

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  #264  
Old May 20th, 2015, 07:36 PM
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Making some progress. Got the body off of the chassis. Those bolts were sure rusty. Most of them broke off. We had to use a grinder to cut off the lower bulkhead bolts and one of the rear roll cage support bracket bolts.
your grin shows how happy you are!
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  #265  
Old May 20th, 2015, 08:33 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Hey, that's cheating!
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  #266  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:07 PM
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LOL! That's awesome!
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1965 IIa SWB
1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #267  
Old May 20th, 2015, 11:04 PM
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Andrew, sorry for the delayed response. I don't have the part number, but if you don't have it by now....just google defender alpine sub UK it'll come up. It was a pain in the ass to order, but it gives good range....but not a huge thump like my old kenwood dual 12" old box! But given its low profile, easy of install behind the center console I love it. I didn't want anything on the rear door as it'd be more exposed to the elements and take away from cargo. I've also seen a replacement frame that swaps out the battery seat box panel for a spot to mount a small sub under the seat. Also not a bad option
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  #268  
Old May 21st, 2015, 12:02 AM
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When you reinstall the bulkhead bolts, slather the shafts in anti-seize. Actually I slather everything in anti-seize. I prefer wurth copper but the silver permetex works well too.
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  #269  
Old May 21st, 2015, 12:34 AM
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When you reinstall the bulkhead bolts, slather the shafts in anti-seize. Actually I slather everything in anti-seize. I prefer wurth copper but the silver permetex works well too.
OMG! For sure! Every bolt will be slathered in anti-seize compound!
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  #270  
Old May 23rd, 2015, 10:03 PM
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When you reinstall the bulkhead bolts, slather the shafts in anti-seize. Actually I slather everything in anti-seize. I prefer wurth copper but the silver permetex works well too.
Ron, any specific reason you prefer Wurths? I did a search and it seems you have to go to a fair amount of effort to sign up on their site or pay about $45 for a can of it.
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  #271  
Old May 24th, 2015, 05:03 PM
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Nickel anti-seize looks like it might be even better. Link: Amazon.com: CRC SL35911 Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricating Compound - 8 wt. oz.: Automotive
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  #272  
Old May 24th, 2015, 05:37 PM
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Isn't the name of the game to reduce galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals at the points where the fasteners contact the thing being fastened? According to this you'd have a greater difference between iron/steel and nickel than with copper.

Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge

Although this chart doesn't really make a strong case for galvy and anything else. Unless I am missing something, according to this chart, aluminum, lead or tin would all be better.
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  #273  
Old May 24th, 2015, 06:00 PM
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Ah ha. I was just considering the anti-seize ability of the paste. Good point.
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  #274  
Old May 24th, 2015, 06:31 PM
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Let’s see if I’m understanding this correctly. There’s only 0.05-0.10 V difference in the "Anodic Index” between aluminum and iron, so typically galvanic corrosion would not occur when they are in contact with each other, but in an environment where iron rusts such as in the presence of water (which enables movement of electrons), there’s galvanic corrosion of the aluminum because iron is more cathodic (higher standard reduction potential). And when the steel that is in contact with aluminum is coated with zinc it prevents galvanic corrosion of the aluminum because it’s more anodic (higher standard oxidation potential). But then wouldn’t the aluminum eventually cause the zinc coating to corrode away especially since there’s 0.30-0.35 V difference between them? So would it then be best to try to prevent contact between aluminum and galvanized steel? And now I can see why using stainless steel fasteners is a bad idea since it’s more cathodic than regular steel.
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  #275  
Old May 24th, 2015, 06:54 PM
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Ah, here's my answer.

"Problems can also occur where the metallic combination is galvanised steel and aluminium. The zinc coating of the galvanised steel will, at first, prevent the aluminium being attacked. However, this protection disappears when the steel surface is exposed after the consumption of the zinc.

As it has a thicker zinc coating than electroplated material, hot dip galvanised material gives longer protection. Thus, in combination with aluminium in aggressive environments, hot dip galvanised material should be used." From: Aluminium Corrosion Resistance - Aluminium Design

So that's interesting. In a harsh environment like the NE where they salt the roads I could see that eventually galvanized parts on a Rover would need to be re-galvanized. In Oregon though where things don't rust much I probably won't have to worry about that.
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  #276  
Old May 25th, 2015, 12:40 AM
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I just like wurth Charles. It seems nicer, but there is no principled reason other than I think copper is better. There is usually a dealer somewhere. The HS2000 (or whatever they call it now) is the best spray lubricant I have found.
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  #277  
Old May 25th, 2015, 03:37 PM
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Thanks Ron

Andrew, I am still totally unsure what's best for this, other than physical separation of the steel and aluminum with plastic or rubber where possible. I guess for the ant-seize we are mainly talking steel on steel right?
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  #278  
Old May 25th, 2015, 04:12 PM
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I use anti-seize for anything stainless to keep the threads from galling, but I don't rely on it exclusively to separate metals. I like to cut my favorite pond liner washers for lots of things and also make washers out of heavier plastic as well. I always have trouble getting the washers I want so that's why I cut my own.
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  #279  
Old May 25th, 2015, 10:36 PM
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Andrew
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Thanks Ron

Andrew, I am still totally unsure what's best for this, other than physical separation of the steel and aluminum with plastic or rubber where possible. I guess for the ant-seize we are mainly talking steel on steel right?
Yeah, I'll just use my regular Permatex stuff. I'm sure it'll be fine. I don't plan on ever taking out those bolts again anyways.

------ Follow up post added May 25th, 2015 07:37 PM ------

Quote:
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I use anti-seize for anything stainless to keep the threads from galling, but I don't rely on it exclusively to separate metals. I like to cut my favorite pond liner washers for lots of things and also make washers out of heavier plastic as well. I always have trouble getting the washers I want so that's why I cut my own.
Thanks for the tip.
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  #280  
Old May 25th, 2015, 10:46 PM
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Thumbs up

I have made plenty of washers and gaskets from shower/hot tub liner as well. It's held up for 10 years with no problem...

Cheers...
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