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  #41  
Old February 20th, 2014, 08:48 PM
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I will agree with Chris, in that I believe 5" lift and RTT/laden rack are not compatable. I have 3" and for my overland configuration I am at the max for tolerable height, and I know it's a tradeoff for driving parallel to any inclines.
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  #42  
Old February 20th, 2014, 09:03 PM
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Yes. Call L8
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  #43  
Old February 23rd, 2014, 08:11 PM
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serpentine belt

I have a 94 disco in the shop that we are parting out that has a serpentine belt setup. Was wondering is there any down side to swapping all the components over to the this set up . Is the PS pump as good as the 3.5 . I like the alt up high for sure and the space to run a AC type air pump . Looks like I can just take timing cover and all brackets and be good to go.

Thanks Ed
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  #44  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post

Dammit, I hate breaking shocks.

OP, if you're planning on forging rivers like the one posted; you chose the wrong engine. Is there a worse engine to submerge in water than a Rover V8.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aka rover
s far as CV joints go I have never broke one ? And I have traveled around Australia and through the Rainforest's of Malaysia with them in some pretty extreme situations . If your suspension is set up right you'll be fine with them . Yes I know more moving parts means more to break .
Huh...? Suspension set up right... Be fine with them...? Whaaat?

I believe you never broke a CV in the rain forrest of Malaysia... Mud=less or no friction. I'm guessing you'll find a lot more rock in Alaska. Rock=friction=CV explosion

I appreciate your enthusiasm but I think you need to rethink your build. It's not too late.
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  #45  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben little View Post
Dammit, I hate breaking shocks. OP, if you're planning on forging rivers like the one posted; you chose the wrong engine. Is there a worse engine to submerge in water than a Rover V8. Huh...? Suspension set up right... Be fine with them...? Whaaat? I believe you never broke a CV in the rain forrest of Malaysia... Mud=less or no friction. I'm guessing you'll find a lot more rock in Alaska. Rock=friction=CV explosion I appreciate your enthusiasm but I think you need to rethink your build. It's not too late.
It's the driver not the terrain that breaks CVs.
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  #46  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben little View Post
Dammit, I hate breaking shocks.

OP, if you're planning on forging rivers like the one posted; you chose the wrong engine. Is there a worse engine to submerge in water than a Rover V8.





Huh...? Suspension set up right... Be fine with them...? Whaaat?

I believe you never broke a CV in the rain forrest of Malaysia... Mud=less or no friction. I'm guessing you'll find a lot more rock in Alaska. Rock=friction=CV explosion

I appreciate your enthusiasm but I think you need to rethink your build. It's not too late.

The pic of my Jeep is a gas powered Supercharged 4.0 ltr . with proper water proofing you can cross fast moving water with ease . My white D90 sees this same use with no troubles properly prepped.

Yes we are Talking constant velocity joints CVs , with a Proper set up suspension IE limiter straps to keep the CVs from going into bind you will be able to run them trouble free.

I am building this truck to the Spec's I know works here in Alaska and from years of building experience. And with Proper set up suspension IE proper lenght shocks and bump stops you wont break shocks nearly as much .

On my builds I remove coils from the trucks and set them on there bump stops to determine and verify everything clears . I also lift them up to full droop to make sure Drive lines clear steering doesn't bind etc.

As wolfe said its drivers who break trucks not tires or horse power .
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  #47  
Old March 4th, 2014, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
It's the driver not the terrain that breaks CVs.
I actually agree with this to a point. Saying that terrain has nothing to do with it is just silly. Spinning a 35" tire in mud isn't quite the same as spinning or bouncing on granite.
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  #48  
Old March 4th, 2014, 06:15 AM
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I actually agree with this to a point. Saying that terrain has nothing to do with it is just silly. Spinning a 35" tire in mud isn't quite the same as spinning or bouncing on granite.
Then you'd have to ask yourself why you are in a position that you are spinning in mud or bouncing on granite.

But you are correct that bouncing on granite will break a CV faster than spinning in mud. We all know that....
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  #49  
Old March 4th, 2014, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Then you'd have to ask yourself why you are in a position that you are spinning in mud or bouncing on granite.

But you are correct that bouncing on granite will break a CV faster than spinning in mud. We all know that....
Ask the guys running 35's and bouncing - that's not me.

35's do seem appropriate for Alaska. Its definitely different terrain than even high-alpine Utah, Colorado, Idaho etc.

What's the plan for suspension/ drivetrain? 5" and...?
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  #50  
Old March 4th, 2014, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben little View Post
Ask the guys running 35's and bouncing - that's not me. 35's do seem appropriate for Alaska. Its definitely different terrain than even high-alpine Utah, Colorado, Idaho etc. What's the plan for suspension/ drivetrain? 5" and...?
Suspension is a front 3-link. Rear is RTE arms 12" travel bilstien 7100 or fox , I have both haven't decided . The front shocks will be mounted out side the coils .
I'm running Maxi Drive front shafts and Ashcroft CVs . ARB locker and GBR drive flanges . Rear will be a ARB in the Sals and GBR rear shafts and flanges .
On the fence on using the X-deflex rear sway bar ? I don't like how far it hangs down behind the axle . The will take a beating dropping off the ICE ledges up here in the winter months . So I think I'll pick up a Currie anti rock sway bar for this build . I have installed them on several different types of rigs with good success .
They offer good sway control as well as mounting up high away from harms way . My coils will be fastened top and bottom . No drop outs etc . The fastened coils act as limiter straps and will keep the shocks from topping out .
I post up pics of the components I'm using pretty soon .
Thanks Ed
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94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #51  
Old March 4th, 2014, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aka rover View Post
Suspension is a front 3-link. Rear is RTE arms 12" travel bilstien 7100 or fox , I have both haven't decided . The front shocks will be mounted out side the coils . I'm running Maxi Drive front shafts and Ashcroft CVs . ARB locker and GBR drive flanges . Rear will be a ARB in the Sals and GBR rear shafts and flanges . On the fence on using the X-deflex rear sway bar ? I don't like how far it hangs down behind the axle . The will take a beating dropping off the ICE ledges up here in the winter months . So I think I'll pick up a Currie anti rock sway bar for this build . I have installed them on several different types of rigs with good success . They offer good sway control as well as mounting up high away from harms way . My coils will be fastened top and bottom . No drop outs etc . The fastened coils act as limiter straps and will keep the shocks from topping out . I post up pics of the components I'm using pretty soon . Thanks Ed
Sounds like a very solid setup.

I know people like dislocation setup in the rear but I agree with you on the retention.

Please post if you do anything with the Currie anti-rock sway. I have a pair of custom arms from Buck sitting on my shelf that I want to add to my 110 build (they are a lot like the Currie Anti Rocks).
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  #52  
Old March 4th, 2014, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aka rover View Post
Suspension is a front 3-link. Rear is RTE arms 12" travel bilstien 7100 or fox , I have both haven't decided . The front shocks will be mounted out side the coils .
I'm running Maxi Drive front shafts and Ashcroft CVs . ARB locker and GBR drive flanges . Rear will be a ARB in the Sals and GBR rear shafts and flanges .
On the fence on using the X-deflex rear sway bar ? I don't like how far it hangs down behind the axle . The will take a beating dropping off the ICE ledges up here in the winter months . So I think I'll pick up a Currie anti rock sway bar for this build . I have installed them on several different types of rigs with good success .
They offer good sway control as well as mounting up high away from harms way . My coils will be fastened top and bottom . No drop outs etc . The fastened coils act as limiter straps and will keep the shocks from topping out .
I post up pics of the components I'm using pretty soon .
Thanks Ed
Sounds like a solid setup for what you need. I know many are in love with ARB lockers but I've personally never felt the love. It just seems like one more complication IMO.

Btw, I was just in Anchorage visiting a partner. I go up a coupe times a year. I'm developing a fascination with the idea of a driving from Utah to there.
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  #53  
Old March 4th, 2014, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben little View Post
Sounds like a solid setup for what you need. I know many are in love with ARB lockers but I've personally never felt the love. It just seems like one more complication IMO.

Btw, I was just in Anchorage visiting a partner. I go up a coupe times a year. I'm developing a fascination with the idea of a driving from Utah to there.

Yes I like the ARBs have used them for years and as long as the lines are run well you shouldn't have a problem with the new design. I run the ARBs front and rear in my 90 and use it all year long .

Its a great drive you wont regret it , im driving out this summer to the EXPO if I get this truck done.

look me up next time your in town .

Ed
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95 D90 SW 4.6 ARBs 8274 37" BFGs Gigglepin twin motor 8274
94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #54  
Old March 4th, 2014, 06:26 PM
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How much will this suspension and axle setup cost you?
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  #55  
Old March 4th, 2014, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aka rover View Post
Suspension is a front 3-link. Rear is RTE arms 12" travel bilstien 7100 or fox , I have both haven't decided . The front shocks will be mounted out side the coils .
I'm running Maxi Drive front shafts and Ashcroft CVs . ARB locker and GBR drive flanges . Rear will be a ARB in the Sals and GBR rear shafts and flanges .
On the fence on using the X-deflex rear sway bar ? I don't like how far it hangs down behind the axle . The will take a beating dropping off the ICE ledges up here in the winter months . So I think I'll pick up a Currie anti rock sway bar for this build . I have installed them on several different types of rigs with good success .
They offer good sway control as well as mounting up high away from harms way . My coils will be fastened top and bottom . No drop outs etc . The fastened coils act as limiter straps and will keep the shocks from topping out .
I post up pics of the components I'm using pretty soon .
Thanks Ed
The X-Deflex definitely kills your ground clearance in the rear, and I would expect to start seeing issues with the locking 'hubs' on it over time, especially if you aren't using it with much frequency. The Currie is the way to go, and there's room for it in the rear, just forward of the crossmember that your upper links attach to. If you haven't driven a truck with a 3-link yet, I should warn you that you're going to experience a lot of body roll compared to what you're used to with the radius arms. I'd try and squeeze a swaybar up front as well if you can find the room, otherwise that big 110 is going to feel uneasy at speed, and even more so when fully-laden.

Also, I've been able to bottom out a 12" shock with a retained spring, so you ought to plan on running a limiting strap. It's cheap insurance.

I'm interested to see where this build goes...I'll be getting started on a 110 Expedition build myself in the next month or so.

-Ash
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  #56  
Old March 4th, 2014, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
How much will this suspension and axle setup cost you?
I bought a disco about 8 years ago that had most all of these parts . I wheeled it with the 3-link and really liked it . After parting out the disco and keeping what I wanted I probably have 4k total into the drive train .
Ed

------ Follow up post added March 4th, 2014 03:47 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash View Post
The X-Deflex definitely kills your ground clearance in the rear, and I would expect to start seeing issues with the locking 'hubs' on it over time, especially if you aren't using it with much frequency. The Currie is the way to go, and there's room for it in the rear, just forward of the crossmember that your upper links attach to. If you haven't driven a truck with a 3-link yet, I should warn you that you're going to experience a lot of body roll compared to what you're used to with the radius arms. I'd try and squeeze a swaybar up front as well if you can find the room, otherwise that big 110 is going to feel uneasy at speed, and even more so when fully-laden. Also, I've been able to bottom out a 12" shock with a retained spring, so you ought to plan on running a limiting strap. It's cheap insurance. I'm interested to see where this build goes...I'll be getting started on a 110 Expedition build myself in the next month or so. -Ash
Ash
Good point on the hub on the X-deflex , and you are correct about limiting straps being cheap insurance . I see what you mean about the spot to run the Antirock . Yes might just run them front and rear . I really like the ability to tune the Antirock to each trucks needs .

Thanks Ed
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85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #57  
Old March 4th, 2014, 07:52 PM
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Rebuilt the Ashcroft CVs with new stars , with a little grease they are ready for action . The maxi drive axles are cleaned ready for install as well . So much work so little time . I better get going :-)

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95 D90 SW 4.6 ARBs 8274 37" BFGs Gigglepin twin motor 8274
94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #58  
Old March 5th, 2014, 10:00 AM
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So much work so little time . I better get going :-)
I hear you. My entire 110 is currently disassembled... Chassis and dozens of other parts are being blasted and then off for galvanizing.
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  #59  
Old March 5th, 2014, 11:17 PM
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The X-Deflex definitely kills your ground clearance in the rear, and I would expect to start seeing issues with the locking 'hubs' on it over time, especially if you aren't using it with much frequency.

-Ash
BS.

All the components are above the axle. I ran one for 3 years and it never once touched a rock or gave me clearance issues.

The X-Deflex is an awesome piece of kit and made my truck extremely stable. I finally felt safe at speed on the highway rollin' on 35s.

Nearly all the parts are LR specific parts are and interchangable - the long shaft is an axle shaft, the LR hub, the tie rod ends, the bushings.

The "hubs"? Really? It's just like any other 4WD hub. keep it greased.

Now that I got that out of my system I will be looking at another X-Deflex or the Currie setup.

COR4 has a killer front sway bar system, but IIRC it's close to $3k.
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  #60  
Old March 5th, 2014, 11:27 PM
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I'm sure it helps stabilize the truck just like any swaybar would, but I can't understand why you'd want to hang all of that equipment below your fuel tank when an Anti-Rock can be tucked 100% out of harms way on the top side of your chassis. Just because the components are above your axle doesn't mean you're not compromising ground clearance. Looks awfully obtrusive to me.

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