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  #1  
Old May 2nd, 2014, 10:17 PM
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William Ficner
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A new start 110 CSW from the Netherlands

It's been a pretty exciting and infuriating couple of weeks I must say. In March I decided to purchase a 1997 300tdi 110 CSW from the guys at Tophat the Netherlands after my last 110 project went to hell.
I took a trip over to the meet them and see the truck and everything went pretty smoothly.

I shipped the truck over in a container along with a bunch of other parts including a Marsland Chassis, front Puma doors, some missing bits for my P&P cage etc. Again other than taking a while to have the shipment all assembled that went pretty smoothly as well.

The real hassles started once the shipment hit the port of Montreal and everyone there wanted their piece of the pie, by the time I'd had a customs inspection (no cleaning needed luckily) and the container had been unloaded in a bonded yard I was out of pocket over $2500 above all the shipping/duty/tax charges and it was almost two weeks after the container actually arrived. Crazy, I now know how it works there and the operation seems very corrupt. I'm not sure I would every use that port again. Maybe Halifax is better.....

One kind of humorous thing when I went to the warehouse to collect it, the hood was up when I arrived and I was wondering what was up. I jumped in tried to start it...nothing.. this had me a bit worried as I was planning to drive it back to Ottawa from Montreal. I realized of course the battery must have been disconnected for shipping. So I popped out the seat cushion and seat-box lid and started hooking up the battery. The warehouse guy came rushing over to see what I was doing and it dawned on me that they had the hood open trying to find the battery. They must have been pushing the truck around to move it, thought that was kind of funny.

Then there was all the safeties, emissions tests etc etc and finally the registration with the MTO. Even though I had every document ready in hand I had to visit multiple MTO offices, as no one really seems to know what their doing with imports from Europe. One supervisor told me that didn't get good advice from their 1-800 help number since they don't really know the policy.....what? Anyway 6hrs later I had the title in hand, my blood pressure started dropping and I could finally start to Enjoy this amazing truck.

Not really sure how I will go about this re-build yet. I want to keep it on the road as much as possible and enjoy it. I think I likely will do some body and interior work, then build up a rolling chassis with the Marsland and flip the body onto.

Here are some pictures of it. Oh and you can see my daughter in my other new ride..also pretty sweet.
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  #2  
Old May 10th, 2014, 01:17 PM
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Nice looking 110. Looks like a fun project.
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  #3  
Old May 10th, 2014, 02:24 PM
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Nice to see you ended up with a good looking 110.

Were you able to settle the score with Dominic Perodeau from the previous debacle?

Keep posting the progress on your new Rover.



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  #4  
Old May 13th, 2014, 07:03 PM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Nice to see you ended up with a good looking 110.

Were you able to settle the score with Dominic Perodeau from the previous debacle?

Keep posting the progress on your new Rover.



.

No unfortunately that one is still in the hands of the authorities. Court date coming up soon though.....here's hoping some justice can be served.
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  #5  
Old May 13th, 2014, 07:10 PM
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Congrats! I may end up doing the same thing so I'm paying special attention to stories like yours - trying to learn what I can. Thanks for posting.

Beautiful truck, by the way! Was the chassis a lot cheaper since you brought it over yourself?
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  #6  
Old May 13th, 2014, 07:31 PM
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Figuring out the order.

So I've been mulling the best way to go at this project, so I can have as little down time as possible.

Here is sort of what I'm thinking, and please if anyone has any suggestions feel free to make them.

PHASE 1

1. Re-seal the roof gutters and seams while still on the truck (do the inside as well after pulling the headliner)

2. Get spare parts galvanized including: T posts, underfloor supports, battery box, tub cappings, floor mount cross member (if it can be saved), Bonnet frame Rad support possibly but that would mean downtime.... I must be missing things here, but those are the main items.

3. Pull the interior moldings, roof, back windows/panels and doors. Then lift the tub off. Pull the old floor pan (it's ok but I had new ones made for my last project and they need to be used).
I suppose I should probably have the floor pan painted or at least primed before I install it to the tub sides....?

4. Re-install everything in reverse order.

The big question is paint. I have new front doors, a new rear door en-route and hopefully some 2nd row doors in the next few weeks. So do I have everything painted while the interior is mostly out? Do I have it painted in sections so the tub is painted before the cappings go back on? I think ideally yes but I would eventually like to pull the bulkhead and have it galvanized will I be able to get the paint to match up?

PHASE 2

Chassis swap. So as you can see from above I have a new chassis.

I have a spare td5 front axle so I plan to repaint, rebuild and install it on the chassis. I don't have a great spare rear so I'll use a crappy one temporarily to get the new chassis rolling.

Then I'll lift the body off (hopefully get the loan of a bay and a lift for a weekend) roll the old chassis with engine out and swap everything. Although I kind of feel like this might be an ideal time to deal with the bulkhead so things could get a bit complicated here. Thoughts?

Maybe I should do the bulkhead before the chassis swap? or maybe I should do it first of all, I dunno.

Final step will be installing my P&P cage.

I know how long this stuff can take so hopefully a stepped approach can make my downtime only 3-5x longer than I expect.
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  #7  
Old May 13th, 2014, 07:53 PM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ]-[ @ n $ View Post
Congrats! I may end up doing the same thing so I'm paying special attention to stories like yours - trying to learn what I can. Thanks for posting your story.

Beautiful truck, by the way! Was the chassis a lot cheaper since you brought it over yourself?
Thanks, I'm pretty excited to have been driving around in it this week. Been able to easily stuff 5 bike boxes in the back, and didn't even have to pull the wheels off my mountain bike when I took it to the trails yesterday, amazing! Who needs a rack.

I think the chassis was marginally cheaper than buying it in North America. To make shipping in a container really pay off I think you need to pack the heck out of it with extra stuff. That being said it was protected during transport quite well. Just those port fees yikes, although I now hear Montreal is especially bad.

Here it is in the can, chassis hung from the roof. And an action shot from yesterdays ride.
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  #8  
Old May 21st, 2014, 12:50 PM
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William Ficner
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R380 Third Gear Grind

Looking for a little bit of advice, and yes I used the search engine first.

I've been finding that shifting from 2nd to 3rd on the R380 I get a bit of a grind. I can avoid it by shifting very quickly from second to third (when in lower rev's) or by hesitating a second or two before engaging third again letting the rev's drop.

Also the first shift of a drive I find that 2nd gear is often blocked, can get it if at really low rev's. No grinding though. After that first shift no problem going from first to second (maybe just needs warming up?)

All the other gears seems fine, smooth shifts. No problem dropping into 3rd from 4th.

Apparently the gearbox was re-built in the last year or two, but I don't have concrete evidence of that. Any thoughts?
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  #9  
Old July 28th, 2014, 10:48 AM
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So I've made a decision on the direction of the project, well I guess the truck actually made the decision for me.

The bulkhead was starting to show some rust in the foot wells, and had a hole beside the heater box, but the rest looked really good. I figured I should deal with it now, before it became a much bigger problem.

So I've pulled the bulkhead, it's being soda blasted right now, along with a bunch of other parts. I'm going to do a bit of welding on it over the next few days and hopefully I will be hauling it off to galvanizing later this week, along with my pile of other bits to galvanize.

I'm also thinking about a colour change since a lot of panels will be off the truck, and new TDCI doors are going on(which aren't a colour match). Keswick Green is really calling my name....
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  #10  
Old September 27th, 2014, 01:08 PM
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It's been a while since I posted anything in this thread, but I've been busy rebuilding the bulkhead and getting everything ready for paint.

After everything was off the vehicle I went to work repairing the bulkhead (you can see the details of that in the bulkhead thread) then off to galvanizing with as many other steel parts as was possible.

Then was the cleanup of excess zinc out of the threads, filing the drips etc. lots of work.... I melted a fair amount of the zinc out with a torch, including cleaning out the bulkhead screens.

Next I lightly sanded all the areas of zinc that I wanted paint to stick to and did a phosphoric acid wash to etch it further. Then sent the parts off for fresh paint.

I picked up the bulkhead and t posts today and they turned out pretty well. Not perfect as the galvanizing wasn't perfectly smooth, but pretty darn good. Also very excited about the colour change to Keswick green.

More parts to pick up from paint next week,then sound proofing to install and re-assembly will begin.







------ Follow up post added September 27th, 2014 02:10 PM ------

Oh and I prepped and repainted my heater box.
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  #11  
Old September 27th, 2014, 03:58 PM
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Unreal! Crazy clean work.
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  #12  
Old September 27th, 2014, 06:59 PM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Unreal! Crazy clean work.

Thanks!

I guess putting the time in pays off.
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  #13  
Old September 29th, 2014, 08:27 PM
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William Ficner
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Sound Deadening

Spent the better part of the day installing B-quiet Ultimate sound deadener on both sides of the bulkhead. It's amazing how long it actually takes to get this on properly, not to mention dealing with all the hole marking, and putting in the plastic inserts in the correct order.

Hopefully this will be the basis for some noise level reduction, yes I know it's a defender and it's not going to be totally quiet. I plan to eventually get the wright off road one piece mat to go on top. Add my newer Puma doors, some bonnet insulation and hopefully it gets a little bit better.

The product from B-quiet seems quite good quality and is quite close in performance (according to the numbers) to the dynamat xtreme for substantially less money.

Also I noticed no odor when installing, and prior to that I had it sitting in my hallway for a week and no smell either.
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  #14  
Old October 3rd, 2014, 11:13 AM
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Looks great!
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  #15  
Old October 6th, 2014, 03:08 PM
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Looks great
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  #16  
Old October 26th, 2014, 04:31 PM
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As the Ottawa winter quickly closes in on me I've been trying to get all the painting done that I personally will be doing. The body panels have all been done at a paint shop.

This weekend I tackled the rear window frames, sanded all the small blistery sections down to bare aluminum, then a light sand of the whole outside face. After that I used an etch primer and a finished with a semi gloss automotive enamel.

I'm pretty pleased with the results.
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  #17  
Old October 26th, 2014, 05:33 PM
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  #18  
Old May 31st, 2015, 09:10 PM
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Since we're well into spring here in Ottawa, I figured I should post some updates of the project.

Apparently I've lost my mind because somewhere over the winter I decided that since I was doing bodywork galvanizing bits etc that I should just go whole hog and change the chassis as the same time

Anyway I guess immediate pain and suffering will be worth it long run.

So I've been working on renewing the axles and getting them on the new chassis.

First off was pulling the rear axle out of the truck and dropping in another axle casing so the truck could still roll around (low rider style).

My Plan was just to clean up the casing remove the boge unit, removing the old ball joint and installing a new one (massive struggle). Then clean and paint the upper and lower control arms and install all new bushings, shocks, hardware and progressive springs.

Unfortunately the pinion seal started leaking while it was off (of course ) and I found the half shafts were knackered so I've got a bit more work now...... But the axle and suspension are on the new chassis.
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  #19  
Old May 31st, 2015, 09:27 PM
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Next up was tackling the front axle, well the spare front axle which is off a TD5, at least I didn't need to pull the one off the truck.

I decided I would do one side at a time so disassembled the right one first. Cleaned everything, painted what was paint-able. Found I needed new swivel balls so I got those as well.
Installed new seals, bearings where necessary, and of course new discs.

I took my time made a few mistakes but eventually got it all together nicely. *****NOTE FOR ANYONE DOING THIS THE FIRST TIME****** Check the torque ratings in more than one source some of the ratings in workshop manual are incorrect and are way higher than the bolts can take. Luckily I have some basic knowledge of bolt sizes/grades and torque ratings as I would have snapped some bolts following the LR manual.

Anyway today I went to tear down the LH swivel expecting it be be in similar condition....of course not that would be too easy. As soon as I pulled the rubber cap off the drive flange I knew I was in trouble as it was packed with dry rust dust. The axle spline is damaged due to being run dry, and the stub axle is cooked as the bearings have worn gooves in them.... sometimes I feel like giving up. I guess I'll be purchasing a new cv, axle stub and bearings this week.....
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  #20  
Old May 31st, 2015, 09:34 PM
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One other little detail I did was to remove the damaged push lock axle breather from the casing and install a 1/4" airline fitting with a National Pipe Thread, which should work nicely.

I would have installed the banjo style fitting found on older axles but the hole where the breather goes was was actually too large.

Anyone wondering what the thread is in a salisbury axle breather is? It's a British Standard Pipe Parallel 1/8 thread.
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