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  #21  
Old June 1st, 2015, 02:59 AM
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Looking good.

When it stops leaking it's because all the oil has run out.
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #22  
Old June 1st, 2015, 03:06 PM
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William Ficner
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What a stroke of luck, I was at a you-pull lot today looking for parts for another vehicle and I stumbled across a disco 1. Pristine cv's on it and good stub axles.

I didn't have all the tools I should have had but with a little innovation and $12 I now have some genuine items to get my front axle going. Click image for larger version

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  #23  
Old June 1st, 2015, 03:41 PM
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Where did you find it? I need a T case (center diff)...

Thanks
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1994 Defender 110 300TDI 3 door
Series/Defender 6BT/NV4500 crew cab project (slowly merging with the above)
Diesel-swapped 1994 80 series Land-cruiser
And a difflocked 4wd turbodiesel Lambo
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  #24  
Old June 1st, 2015, 03:43 PM
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William Ficner
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Standard auto out on Old Richmond Rd.

I haven't forgotten about those parts for you either JL.
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  #25  
Old June 1st, 2015, 03:44 PM
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The only place I did not check!

Thanks, busy on some house reno crap, soon to move back to rover crap. Will be in touch.
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1994 Defender 110 300TDI 3 door
Series/Defender 6BT/NV4500 crew cab project (slowly merging with the above)
Diesel-swapped 1994 80 series Land-cruiser
And a difflocked 4wd turbodiesel Lambo
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  #26  
Old June 1st, 2015, 03:45 PM
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In tempted to go back for the anti-away bar. Just need to determine if the chassis mount locations are the same as the defender.
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  #27  
Old June 7th, 2015, 09:39 PM
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William Ficner
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A new start 110 CSW from the Netherlands

Oh man what a piss-off, I pulled the second new swivel ball out of the packaging with the intention of installing it today, but it's got a nasty ding in it. Pretty sure it happened before being Teflon coated, it's also really sharp and would shred the seal.
So I suppose this is my first experience with the Britpart quality control issues I read about everywhere. The first one I used was great but this ones unusable.
Guess we'll see how the warranty works...... Click image for larger version

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That's going to set me back a week I bet.
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  #28  
Old June 25th, 2015, 04:11 PM
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William Ficner
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Some progress has been made after receiving a replacement swivel under warranty last week.

The front axle is all bolted together with a whole host of fresh new parts.

After a bit of a struggle to get the old ball joints out, put the new ones in. I got the tie rod installed last night and set the toe in.

Then today I managed to find a few spare hours in the afternoon and rolled the font axle under the chassis.

It finally feels like I'm getting somewhere.
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  #29  
Old July 5th, 2015, 08:55 PM
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William Ficner
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Lots of work has been happening this week. I pulled off the bulkhead, seat box and everything else that was attached between the engine and the chassis.

I also managed to figure out and remove the engine immobalizer from the seatbox with screwing it up.

Today, after a hearty English style breakfast at a British GP party, I decided the "big lift" was going down.

Based on advice from many of you I had determined I would pull the Engine, Transmission and TC all as one lump. My original plan was to have the old chassis facing the new chassis and just turn the cherry picker around and plunk the engine in the new one. Well my driveway isn't too smooth so after lifting everything up it seemed much easier to roll the old chassis backwards out of the way and roll the new one into position without actually moving the hoist.

It all went quite smoothly, well mostly. I did manage to pull the the threaded studs out of the rubber engine and transmission mounts.


Once the big lump was in the new chassis I split it at the bell housing and pulled the engine off on it's own. The plan is to replace the rear oil seal, put in a new clutch, re-seal the oil pan and see if anything else needs doing.

I managed to break one of the studs on the clutch housing when unscrewing the bell housing from it, rather unfortunate. Hopefully I can manage to get the old stud out and a new one in without too much trouble.

I've never had one of these apart before and I notice the primary shaft that connects the R380 to the clutch is fairly wobbly. Is that normal?
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  #30  
Old August 11th, 2015, 12:10 AM
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William Ficner
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Disco Second Row Seat Install

Things are rolling along, not as quickly as I would like of course, but I've made some real progress in regards to the second row seats.

After some mock ups I decided the placement I thought was ideal and got to cutting the tub on one side. After a sit test I decided to move the seats a bit further forward and up an inch. This still gives much more room than the original 60/40 bench and still allows the double fold.

How to securely lock down the much heavier seats and in a position that was essentially floating in air took a bit of figuring. As you can see I've fabbed up a set of brackets that situate the seats. I also bent the original disco seat brackets so they have a 90 degree bend (had to cut slits in them to achieve this) so you won't wack the back of your legs now.

I probably could have gotten away with a plate behind the floor to anchor the brackets (my floor pan is much thicker than stock roughly 3/16" thick) but I still wasn't totally happy with that so I made a new cross-member that the seat brackets can tie into. Super strong!

I'm just waiting on a set of covering caps that I designed to be bent up for me, these will drop over the tub cutouts.

Finally I will have a 3/16" plate made that will be riveted into the floor to give clearance for the floor anchors.

Now I just need to send it all off for some rover chrome.
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  #31  
Old August 11th, 2015, 12:13 AM
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Preview of the final parts to come.

What's with the photos loading sideways, is it an I phone thing? I don't remember it happening earlier in the year.
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  #32  
Old August 11th, 2015, 01:58 AM
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Oscar
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Awesome.

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  #33  
Old August 11th, 2015, 08:25 AM
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Brian
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Awesome.
Jelly for sure....looking great.
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  #34  
Old December 24th, 2015, 10:29 AM
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Again it's been some time since I made a post here in my build thread so here's some updates.

After making all the seat brackets I wanted to galvanize them, as well as numerous other small steel parts that I missed on the first round. Before I did that I wanted to make some further modifications to the rear tub supports so allow an opening for access to my sending unit, through the floor.

Next up I reassembled my bonnet with a galvanized frame and added B-quiet Ultimate before reinstalling the stock sound matting.
I also tried repainting the pop rivets for a colour match, but the paint just popped off as the rivets when in.... it was worth a try.

After this I turned my attention to the engine/transmission/transfer case. I needed to get things sorted the point where I could drop everything back in the chassis and rolling everything into the garage for the upcoming winter (which still hasn't arrived).
After a cleaning and quick paint of the block the next order of business was trying to address the leaks as best as possible. That meant a new rear main seal, re-sealing the sump, and new T-pieces.
I used the newer rubber t-seals with a light smear of right stuff (it's unreal how much these stretch when they go in.
I also used right stuff on the sump and I went to the unrated International rear main seal, which certainly looks the business with it's extra lip. Hopefully it keeps the oil in.
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  #35  
Old December 24th, 2015, 11:00 AM
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I had been having bad shifts into third gear and I decided that I couldn't put the R380 back on without trying to sort it out.
I managed to beg and borrow a number of the many tools needed from my local Dealership...shocking... but much appreciated. I had to fab up a couple tools as well but I went to it and took the whole thing apart.
Much to my dismay once it was in pieces I found the dog teeth(I think that's what they're referred to, the part of the syncromesh system that's attached onto each gear ) were almost all damaged. The cost to replace the gears was getting pretty darn close to the price of a rebuilt Ashcroft, and since they know what they're doing and I'm inexperienced I bit the bullet and bought a new one.
I also upgraded from J suffix box to the more robust L suffix and had them change 5th gear for the V8's fifth gear with the hope it will be just a bit quieter on the highway.

While I waited for the transmission to be built I refinished the bellhousing and flywheel housing.
I also replaced my p-gasket and water pump.
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  #36  
Old December 24th, 2015, 11:23 AM
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When I first bought the truck I had the timing belt replaced and I figured I wouldn't touch it, but since it was so easy to access at this point i decided to crack the case and have a peak to make sure everything was still good.... of course it wasn't. The belt was split and there was black fuzz all throughout the case. So I need to replace it now and try and figure out what the cause was.

I put the timing belt issue aside since I was really wanting everything dropped back in the chassis.

I dropped the engine in first after installing new rubber mounts, which went smoothly.

Next up I installed the flywheel housing, installed the flywheel. Joined the bellhousing to the R380. Installed a new clutch, HD clutch fork, bearing, spigot bush etc etc. Then dropped all of it back into the chassis and bolted it onto the engine.

The transfer case followed right after a good cleaning and reseal.

Finally the bulkhead went back on.

That's all for now, I need to go build a dollhouse.
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  #37  
Old December 24th, 2015, 11:30 AM
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outside corner of the fuel pump timing gear looks badly worn.

I've only seen this once in a car and it was where a screw was jammed between the timing cover and one of the backing plate mounts. The screw wore down the teeth of the timing gear and tore the timing belt. The belt did not break.
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  #38  
Old December 24th, 2015, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
outside corner of the fuel pump timing gear looks badly worn.

I've only seen this once in a car and it was where a screw was jammed between the timing cover and one of the backing plate mounts. The screw wore down the teeth of the timing gear and tore the timing belt. The belt did not break.

Here's another shot of that gear, I didn't notice excessive wear but ill have a closer look now. There was also some damage to the crank pulley and a few nicks on the tension pulley as well.

I would say the belt runs as far forward to the front of the timing gears as is possible, so maybe not balancing well?

This is a later 300tdi so it has the stiffer fuel pump bracket and I assume newer stiffer timing case.
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  #39  
Old December 24th, 2015, 11:58 AM
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Sorry will, I was wrong. What I thought I was looking at was not the fuel pump gear but the camshaft gear. The camshaft gear looks normal, not worn.

Sorry.

The fuel pump gear looks fine.
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  #40  
Old December 24th, 2015, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Sorry will, I was wrong. What I thought I was looking at was not the fuel pump gear but the camshaft gear. The camshaft gear looks normal, not worn.

Sorry.

The fuel pump gear looks fine.

Here are some of the camshaft gear.

My thoughts were to replace the idler, tensioner and stud, crankshaft pulley, belt obviously. Maybe camshaft gear if it's bad?
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