A Ghost is Born (100" Hybrid) Part 2 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 15th, 2012, 09:55 PM
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Dave Johnson
'91 RRC
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A Ghost is Born (100" Hybrid) Part 2

Since a few people have inquired about the status of my Defender Project, I thought I would give an update. Can’t believe almost a year has gone by since my last post on this….
Mounting the Bulkhead
Anyway, I bit one of many bullets over the course of the build out, the first one being a new bulkhead. I used Safari HP’s LHD TD5 style bulkheads (Part #AHA 710450). Rebuilding my 2A’s would have been possible, but having the opportunity to start with a solid frame and a new bulkhead really appealed to me. Unfortunately, I didn’t see the YouTube videos documenting “A Rover Is Born” until I was done mounting the bulkhead, otherwise I would have used their easy method to position it correctly on the RRC frame.
Instead we did our best to calculate it based on some diagrams and other measurements from the axles, fenders, etc. Another easy way would have been to mount a stock Defender steering shaft assembly to the steering box and use the mounting brackets to determine where the bulkhead should go. (I originally thought I was going to be able to use the RRC steering, so I didn’t have the D90 steering until a little later).
We ended up being off by about an inch and a half, which didn’t really affect things too much, except I needed to add an extra extension/u-joint to where the steering shaft meets the box. Readily available from Borgeson.
Had I not had a professional iron worker at my disposal, I would have bought stock D90 outriggers to mount the frame to the chassis, but my welding friend came up with some outriggers quite easily, which got attached directly to the RRCs front outriggers (see pic).
Floor and Rear Tub and Bumper
From there we created some permanent sliders (need to be cleaned up still), then a grid of support for the floor and then laid down some floor panels that could be easily removed in the future for access to the drivetrain if ever needed.
I used bucket seats from eBay that came out of a 2008 Jeep Wrangler. We also fabbed up a custom tunnel cover to accommodate the ZF and BW transfer case shifters (see pic).
We re-used the stock 88” tub and mounted it to the rear of the frame, using the center of the rear axle as our reference point. Pretty straightforward, with the addition of a couple of support bars.
The rear bumper is something my welder came up with that keeps the look of an LR bumper and incorporates a 2” receiver.
Radiator
One of the biggest issues was fitting a radiator. There are not a lot of options out there if you are looking to keep the Rover V8 setup and maintain the same hose and port configurations. After trying about 4 different models from Ready-Rad and others, I gave in and took the stock RRC radiator, cut about 6 inches out of the center of the frame and then took it to a local radiator shop where they re-cored it and put it all back together again. Fit perfectly and would recommend that approach. The problem with the aftermarket ones was generally in the height of it. Most had a raised filler neck that interfered with the closing of the hood. For now I am running an after market tranny cooler…that is one thing that I may change out in the future after some evaluation.
Bonnet, Wings and Top
My original plan was to fabricate a new bonnet by extending the stock 2A one, or creating a cowl like on the RRC, but this ended up being the second bullet that I decided to bite and I picked up a used D90 bonnet from someone on the forum.
Still working on a permanent means of securing the bonnet closed, as the stock latch assembly hit the center of the radiator.
I used the 2A wings, but replaced the outer panels with the ABS plastic versions, as mine were an equal mix of dents and bondo.
I also had an extra space between the doors and the tub due to the 2A body fitted to a RRC frame without wanting to shorten the wheelbase. I used some old doors and made some extra panels so it is kind of like a king cab – we even made one of the panels a working suicide door.
For now, it will be a soft top indefinitely. I decided to go with a D90 new take-off windscreen which was a fit for the bulkhead and the price was right. I added the mounting strip for the soft-top and got a used full length soft top from the Forum. Remember the wheelbase is now 100” so it doesn’t line up exactly with the 2A hoopset, but it keeps me dry for now. This will be something I may have made up by a local canvas shop at some point.
Fuel
We reused the complete stock RRC EFI system – fortunately we didn’t trash the harness in the disassembly process. For now, I am using an aftermarket 16 gallon aluminum Summit Racing fuel cell mounted in the tub with an external Mallory fuel pump. Seems to work ok, but running really rich and I need to isolate that problem a little more. May need to reset the factory idle or it may be that I messed up something when wiring the road speed sensor to the ECU. I get the Code 69 on the display and I seem to recall a malfunctioning road speed circuit can default to running rich. I would really like to come up with a way to re-use the stock pump/sender, but would need some kind of custom cell to accept that. (Suggestions welcome!)
Brakes
I ditched the ABS system and installed a non-ABS D90 servo unit and replumbed the whole system courtesy of Advance Auto Parts for about the cost of one Genuine brake line. I like this so much I may do it to my other RRC.
Electrics, etc.
I used a universal 14-circuit harness from Northwest Wiring. Tons cheaper than the popular alternatives and seems to be working just fine. Safari HP had a complete used D90 dash assembly that was originally for RHD, so I used that quite easily, though I had to cut out a space for the steering shaft to clear the lower dash on the “new” driver’s side. Other than that it was a pretty straightforward. It somewhat complicated the heater install as the lower dash acts as a plenum for the heated air flow. That will need some future work but works good enough for now.
I used a NAS dash cluster for the purposes of appearance and to get a stock-looking speedo, tach and fuel gauge. I replaced the warning lamp cluster with a simple panel that has warning LEDs for oil pressure, brake fluid level, coolant level, turn signals and hi-beam indicator (see pic).
I used the standard D90 turn signal switch and headlamp switch. I used a second headlamp switch to operate the wiper lo and hi speed…it was much cheaper than the wiper switch and fit just fine. Used my savings toward a new D90 wiper motor.
I bit a 3rd bullet and bought a new heater assembly. It was nearly fall before it was driveable and I wanted to get some time behind the wheel. I have actually been driving it even in the winter when there is no salt on the roads. With the soft-top and Exmoor Fume curtain, the cabin is pretty sealed off and the heater keeps me just warm enough as long as it isn’t too cold out. The heater wasn’t a perfect fit for my bulkhead so I added a lower support bracket. I already mentioned that my RHD lower dash caused an airflow problem, but that is a work in progress.
Bullet #4 came by way of an unexpected tranny rebuild…Somewhere between the day I parked her as a 92 Range Rover and the day I fired her up last summer, I ground it up pretty good. When I got it running, I only had 1st gear. My local shop let me watch as they cracked it open and it was toast. The only explanation is that during a couple of flat tows to/from my friends shop, we must not have had it in neutral.
Another mishap set me back a little when I didn’t follow Step 1 of every Rover repair and failed to disconnect the battery when I was working underneath. I arced the y-pipe to the starter and melted the solenoid. Fortunately, I had erred on the side of caution and put some extra fuses in place which probably saved me most of the other electrical components.
Anyway..at this point, I would call it 80-85% complete…There are some things that need attention when the weather turns a bit warmer. I want to put a roll bar in and true up some of the lines on the body panels, but otherwise it has shaped up nicely.
It actually drives great…even on the highway. Haven’t wheeled it yet but seems like it will be a blast. It really wants to go. I attached some pics and can answer questions as I am sure that I missed some things. Thanks to everyone who sold me their used goodies on the forum. Hopefully see you on the trail.
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Dave J.
'91 RR Classic
'01 RR 4.6 HSE - Gone!
'00 Disco 2 - Gone!
'95 Disco 5-Spd - Gone!
'92 RR County SWB - Gone!
'63 2A SWB - Gone!
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  #2  
Old February 16th, 2012, 06:33 AM
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Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
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So, does the cruise control work?
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #3  
Old February 16th, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
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wow Frankenstein
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  #4  
Old February 16th, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Ed
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All you need are bolts sticking out of its neck! I love it!
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  #5  
Old February 16th, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Thanks Jeff - I was about to go searching for part 1. I like it! The extended cab is growing on me as well. I definitely like the idea of keeping the frame/suspension/driveline as designed.
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  #6  
Old February 16th, 2012, 02:21 PM
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I would really like to come up with a way to re-use the stock pump/sender, but would need some kind of custom cell to accept that. (Suggestions welcome!)

Use the fuel pump out of a NAS 110 or a RRC with a steel tank. They are designed to mount on a flat surface so you can just cut a hole in whatever tank you are using and you are good to go (adjusting the pick up for length as needed).
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  #7  
Old February 16th, 2012, 04:24 PM
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aka rover
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ed angel
95 D90
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Very nice very retro looking.

I would do the defender cuts on the arches and get some steelies to finsh up the look.

Good job theres alot more than people think goes into a conversion like this, theres as much time scratching your head as you do working on them.


Keep up the work
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95 D90 SW 4.6 ARBs 8274 37" BFGs Gigglepin twin motor 8274
94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #8  
Old February 16th, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Dave Johnson
'91 RRC
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Answers to some questions...

Thanks for all the good dialogue...Some answers/comments...

Cruise - Only works when I wedge a broom handle between the pedal and the tub. One convenience that i didn't keep - for now anyway.

NAS 110 Fuel Tank - Thanks for that suggestion. ..I was seriously thinking of going that route. Actually had the tank and pump in the shopping cart...But didn't pull the trigger. Wanted to research a bit more. I think that will be my next change, as I really want to get rid of the external pump and the associated lines and hoses. (So I may have a fuel cell and mallory pump for sale...)

Wheel Arches - Good suggestions. I am kicking myself that I went with the 2A front fender panels and not the 90 style. I already had 1 so I just got another Series style.

I have the steel NATO rims (see pic) with some nice swampers but won't fit in my garage.

Hard top - We planned to convert the aluminum 2A top to a pickup cab but got sidetracked. Then the fume curtain arrived and that keeps it very comfortable...

In retrospect, it didn't make sense to sacrifice a perfectly good 2A, when so little got re-used..but emotionally it still feels like my good ol' series to me...selling it would have been like selling one of my kids...so it was a way to keep it around in spirit...and it is cheaper to get a 1963 inspected, registered and insured than a 92 RR.
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Dave J.
'91 RR Classic
'01 RR 4.6 HSE - Gone!
'00 Disco 2 - Gone!
'95 Disco 5-Spd - Gone!
'92 RR County SWB - Gone!
'63 2A SWB - Gone!
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  #9  
Old June 11th, 2012, 02:59 PM
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Dave Johnson
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Here's what the project is looking like these days...still slowing getting around to the details...
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_________________________
Dave J.
'91 RR Classic
'01 RR 4.6 HSE - Gone!
'00 Disco 2 - Gone!
'95 Disco 5-Spd - Gone!
'92 RR County SWB - Gone!
'63 2A SWB - Gone!
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  #10  
Old August 12th, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Dylan Haas
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amazing what a coat of paint does!!
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  #11  
Old June 30th, 2014, 11:00 AM
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Joshua
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Up for sale. $15k Buy It Now price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Land-Ro...ht_1526wt_1153

1963 Land Rover Other Defender1963 Land Rover Other Defender
1963 Land Rover 2A Defender Hybrid Softtop -LHD, V8, Auto, Coil Chassis, PS/PB

Land Rover Defender Style Soft-top, LHD, V8, Auto


djrover (55 )

Item Location: Rochester, New York, United States

VIN: 24404261

Description:

Left-hand drive 1963 Series 2A soft-top rebuilt on 1992 Range Rover platform with coil sprung chassis, 3.9L V8 engine, ZF automatic transmission, power steering, disc brakes, heat and more. Most capable Series you will ever find! Never belonged to a duke or duchess, didn't transport injured soldiers to safety in the Falklands, never been to the moon and wasn't a "rare barn find." The only story here is that this Rover is a beast! I'll let you finishthe story to go along with this vehicle. I will say this it the way that Land Rover should have built the Defender - 100" wheelbase, 2+" of lift, 32" mud tires on NATO wheels, 24" of clearance, winch bumper, extended cab and no other bells/whistles. This Land Rover is capable of anything. Great to drive - vintage looks with modern capabilities. Pick it up today and hit the trail tomorrow. If you are considering other Rovers, my personal comments from my own experience are that unless you deliver mail, right-hand drive gets old; Rover hardtops are hot and noisy - not to mention they weigh a ton; 45MPH top speed gets f......r.....u.....s.....t.....r.....a.....t....i. ....n.........g; 4-cylinder engines are about 4-cylinders underpowered, Series drum brakes are constant maintenance and illegal imports get confiscated upon entry.

This is an original left-hand drive Series 2A that I have owned and had registered in New York since 1997. In 2010 it was rebuilt from the frame up, on my 1992 Range Rover County 100" coil sprung chassis, utilizing the factory Land Rover V8 motor, drive train, axles and diffs. (I was the second owner of the Range Rover "donor platform" and have owned it since 1999.) The Range Rover was equipped with OME HD springs, Bilstein shocks (lifetime guarantee - left-front needs replacement) and shock lowering mounts (awesome articulation). During the rebuild project, nearly everything was replaced, serviced, rebuilt or repaired. The project started with a brand new Defender bulkhead. I also had a full professional rebuild on the automatic transmission less than 3K miles ago. There are 117.5K miles on the odometer. There are approximately 127K miles on the chassis/drivetrain.

All of the following Land Rover parts were serviced or replaced during the project less than 3K miles ago:
· Land Rover chassis - cleaned and coated with POR
·
ZF4HP22 Auto Transmission – Full Professional Rebuild (2010, less than 3K miles on it) mated to Borg-Warner Transfer case
·
New Front/Rear Wheel bearings/seals
·
New Front/Rear drive-shaft w/greasable u-joints
·
New Front/Rear brakes, including calipers, pads, rotors including Parking Brake shoes
·
New Performance Stainless Steel Brake Hose Kit for 2+” Raised Suspension
·
Radiator professionally re-cored
·
New Starter Motor
· New Alternator
·
New Steering Rods/Ends
·
New Steering Stabilizer
·
New Die Hard Battery mounted behind passenger seat

Genuine Defender Parts utilized:
  • New Defender Bulkhead (Part #AHA710450)
  • New soft-top Hoop set
  • New Exmoor Trim Full Canvas Top with side windows – khaki green
  • Also includes Soft-top Header bar with Black Bimini and Surrey Tops included
  • Quick Cover top
  • Defender Bonnet with optional spare tire mount
  • Windscreen
  • Radiator Support
  • Grille
  • Sliding Door-Tops
  • Headlamp surrounds/supports
  • Gas and Brake Pedal Assemblies
  • Brake master cylinder and Servo Unit
  • Steering Shaft
  • Side Mirrors
  • Wiper Motor, Assemblies, Arms and Blades
  • Heater Assembly
  • Air intake housing
  • RHD Dash Assembly, including aluminum cowl, gauges and lights/wiper switches (High Beam setting does not work - needs replacement part#:XPB101290)
  • (5) 16” tubeless NATO Black Steel Rims with Super Swamper TRXXUS 265/75/16 tires
Other included parts/accessories:
  • New Jazz 22 Gallon Fuel Cell w/sender, mounting to tub
  • New Mallory 4060FI Electric Fuel Pump
  • 2 New Cloth Reclining Bucket seats in Gray (with seat covers)
  • Custom Heavy Duty Rear Bumper with integrated 2” trailer hitch receiver
  • Steel rock sliders integrated into frame – 24” of clearance from the sliders
  • All new stainless Floor Panels and Tunnel Cover
  • Roll-cage (removable if needed)
  • Locking Tuffy Console with Radio Housing and cup holders
  • Pioneer Stereo with Speakers
  • LED light kit for rear
  • Winch Plate
  • Diamond Plate sill trim (removable if desired)
  • Bumper Mounted Fog Lights – just installed - need to be wired
  • Note: If you are looking for a showroom paint job (I obviously wasn't), you will have to take care of that yourself. As good as the pictures look, up close the paint is rough. It was sprayed white to match the Defender bonnet, windscreen and radiator support, and the tub interior is still Series Pastel Green.
Terms & Conditions - Note, this was a rebuild project – not a restoration. It is far from perfect. It has dents, dings, imperfections and wear and tear representative of a vehicle of this era. It also has custom and non-genuine elements incorporated over the years, so purists be warned. Of course, it will always need care and attention. Classic Rovers were truly over-engineered and will last forever, but will still require on-going care, maintenance and repair. If you are unsure of your ability to keep up with needs of a unique, older vehicle, you should probably look at other options. I want to pass this on to someone who knows what they are getting into and will appreciate the uniqueness of old Rovers.

Payment -Winning bidder must send non-refundable $500 down payment via PayPal within 24 hours of the end of the auction. Non-refundable deposit for Buy It Now is due immediately. Full remaining amount via cash or certified bank check is due within 7 days of Auction completion. Please secure any loan/financing in advance.

If you are not sure about something, Please ASK. Do not assume anything not listed is included. The vehicle is also listed locally, so I reserve the right to end the listing if the vehicle is no longer available for sale.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #12  
Old October 4th, 2014, 07:31 PM
Cajun
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G
1987 110
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Rig is now in Chicago burbs
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