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  #1  
Old May 30th, 2009, 11:03 AM
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97 SW getting a few upgrades

I was typing descriptions, lost em when I clicked the wrong button.
Now hope the pics tell the tale.

It all started as a complete and totally original truck (out of NY) - not mine BTW, belongs to a friend of a friend.

a few hours later

corrosion on rear body and in rear door handle pocket

faded rear lamps and peek at rear crossmember

noisy front hinge

rusty battery box and beginnings of an ugly bulkhead

road salt, ugh and more of what it does


Since it is going to live at a beach house here in NC, the idea is to take care of any and all existing corrosion, then rust proof everything possible.

Follow-up Post:

Got another frame (to galv.) and bonnet from Dale Knepp (original had an interesting dent)

Most of the larger items to be dipped went to a local guy to be sandblasted, the smaller stuff stayed.
Turns out, with enough drain cleaner, some water, a strap on heating element, and a 55gal drum you can take the paint off damn near anything. However be careful not to use too much drain cleaner at once.

Turns out the original frame was not so bad after all, so a couple other guys threw in some of their stuff and I loaded it all in a 24ft rental truck and took it to be galvanized. Two frames, two bins worth of smaller parts, enough door frames for two trucks, both bonnet frames, a stack of tub supports, etc. According to them it was 1350lbs and it cost about $375. (more detailed pics in my photobucket)

Follow-up Post:

now the fun part, I won't be too descriptive (this way you can have more fun looking at the pics)

new tires (285/75-16 SSR, measure out to 33.9)

Equipe suspension kit (the springs were the wrong color so they are out getting repowdercoated)

replacement body and mechanical parts had to get their own shelf ... the SS oil lines are there somewhere

GBR goodies, equipe skid plates, sliders, etc

don't let your wife fill your bonus room with junk, use it for D90 parts

recent arrivals are the new wheels

and the new seats

initially I got a Mud UK stainless bolt kit, then another little kit, but that wasnt nearly covering everything- luckily the Fastenal is only a couple minutes away so I could stock up

even got some nice hand polished SS lug nuts

ok I am off to do some more work
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  #2  
Old May 30th, 2009, 05:32 PM
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Nice..
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  #3  
Old May 30th, 2009, 08:47 PM
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Very nice....
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  #4  
Old May 31st, 2009, 12:47 AM
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Very, very nice ....
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  #5  
Old May 31st, 2009, 07:04 AM
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Great work so far, I can truly appreciate someone trying to preserve these great trucks. This is my goal on my D90 someday, for now just doing one section at a time. Keep the progress pictures coming.
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  #6  
Old May 31st, 2009, 09:03 AM
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Looks good. When do you think you will have it done?
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  #7  
Old May 31st, 2009, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
Looks good. When do you think you will have it done?
Tough to say, hopefully sometime this summer.

Follow-up Post:

Almost forgot, got the new alloy front door hinges in from AB yesterday, and the new transmission cooler lines from RDS. Also successfully test mounted the bulkhead onto the frame. Might start stripping the tub down today (removing the adhesive residue from the inside and the weak attempt at undercoating from the underside) and I need to paint the engine block.
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  #8  
Old May 31st, 2009, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
Tough to say, hopefully sometime this summer.

Follow-up Post:

Almost forgot, got the new alloy front door hinges in from AB yesterday, and the new transmission cooler lines from RDS. Also successfully test mounted the bulkhead onto the frame. Might start stripping the tub down today (removing the adhesive residue from the inside and the weak attempt at undercoating from the underside) and I need to paint the engine block.
Yeah, you have a lot to do so get to work!

Oh yea, and great job so far...

C-
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  #9  
Old June 2nd, 2009, 01:10 PM
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You guys didnt even tell me my pic links were all messed up back there... LOL
Anyhow, looks like it is too late to edit now, so just find the photobucket link and you can see all kinds of pics there.

Today it is almost 100 degrees outside and sunny so I am stripping the original undercoating off the bottom of the tub (already did the seat box).
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  #10  
Old June 3rd, 2009, 03:21 PM
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Test fit of the bulkhead (lined right up!) onto the frame.



To strip the original undercoating from one of these trucks seems really easy. Of course it helps to have the parts you wanna strip removed and inverted, but you get the idea. First spray liberally with Gunk Gel engine degreaser on a sunny day and let it soak. The gel type degreaser is best because it will not evaporate, it sits there and breaks down whatever you spray it on wether its grease or undercoating. It does not hurt the seam sealer though, which is good. Then attack the heavier areas with a scraper or putty knife but dont work too hard, just remove the bulky stuff. Next, rinse with the garden hose to knock the remaining chunks down then hook up the pressure washer and blast off the residue. If you powerwash the heavier stuff it will end up spraying all over you and everythign else and half dissolved rubber is not a fun mess to deal with. I also used a similar process to get the carpet tape adhesive residue off of the interior of the tub.

The end result is quite impressive inside and out and after a quick wipe down with some mineral spirits or acetone the tub will be ready to go to the body shop. There are little spots of corrosion here and there that are gonna get sanded and primed in addition to the little bit of work to be done on the body sides which will be painted the new color. Then the tub goes to get rhinolining sprayed inside and underneath.

To be honest I have not decided yet to reinstall the galv parts onto the tub yet or wait. I am thinking it might be best to wait till after paint...
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  #11  
Old June 3rd, 2009, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
I am thinking it might be best to wait till after paint...
That sounds like the best option to me.
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  #12  
Old June 4th, 2009, 01:40 AM
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Here is a picture of my monitor.
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  #13  
Old June 4th, 2009, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Here is a picture of my monitor.

LOL.. So bad
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  #14  
Old June 4th, 2009, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas
That sounds like the best option to me.
Yeah the more I look at the bare tub it surprises me to see so many spots of bare aluminum. I think its best these get primed and painted.
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  #15  
Old June 5th, 2009, 06:35 PM
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just about finished up the front axle today, also degreased and painted the engine shortblock...


might have some pics if RON promises not to jizz in his pants?
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  #16  
Old June 5th, 2009, 08:09 PM
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It was not in my pants, it was on the monitor.
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  #17  
Old June 6th, 2009, 09:13 AM
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LOL

front axle pic


engine peek
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  #18  
Old June 8th, 2009, 11:14 PM
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got the rear axle mostly buttoned up today (will install the rear diff and axles later)

Going to pick up the batch of parts from the plating company tomorrow, got a "few" things done in yellow cadmium...
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  #19  
Old June 9th, 2009, 12:54 AM
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Tell us how to use drain cleaner to strip paint and rust please. I need a visit from the township.
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  #20  
Old June 10th, 2009, 06:03 PM
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It is difficult to explain, not that it is complicated, more like too simple sounding to seem believable.

Here is what we did

-Bought a 55gal barrel with lid from a guy on Craigslist. It was clean and only cost me $15.
-Bought a strap type heating element online to fit the drum (I will have to search for the link)
-Put some water in the drum (I found about 15 gal works well) and turn on the heater, let it get good and warm
-Put about 8lbs of pure lye drain cleaner in the water slowly, while stirring so the crystals dissove
-Hook your parts onto metal coat hangers like from the drycleaners and submerge them in the solution
-Set the lid on top (not so it seals) and leave it be! Checking it every couple hours will lose a lot of heat so leave it for 12-24 hours then take a look
- When you remove parts, even if they dont look stripped take them out and pressure wash them. That will tell you how well things are working. I took a pallet and leaned it against the garbage can, then stuck a bunch of nails in it and hung the parts there to powerwash them. Then I would take and hang them up to air-dry and inspect. Stripped parts went in a large bin with a lid so they wouldnt get wet and rust. Parts with some paint left on them would either get sanded with 80 grit, wire brushed, or back in the tank again for another soak.

All of the above was hard learned and didnt really jive with what I had heard about this technique in the beginning. More pointers:

- The average part took me 24hrs in the tank to strip. Stubborn parts 48hrs. To turn powdercoated or super stubborn parts into stubborn parts scuff with 36 grit sandpaper and try some Bix Tuff Job stripper (from home depot) first. Even then, some parts would just NOT strip for me unless I hit them with aircraft stripper.
- Do this outside. I erected an easy-up canopy to keep rain from getting onto things, also it became a convenient place to hang cleaned parts for air drying after they were stripped.
- Remember the 55gal drum acts as a heat sink, so crank the heater up and leave it on. It probably wont get as hot as you think.
- Every day expect to have to add another pound of lye to keep the solution working. I would usually wait two days and add two pounds.
- Buy several pairs of good fitting PVC coated elbow length gloves and get used to putting them on every time you touch a part that has been in the tank. Also get used to the random chemical burn on the forearm. Should you get some of the solution on you, use citrus based hand cleaner first the acid will help to neutralize it. Also note how clean it gets your hands!
- DONT BREATHE when you first remove the lid from the barrel. Breathing near this stuff will not kill you but a good lungful will have you coughing up mucus for hours and enough will probably put you in respiratory distress. I would pull the lid and step back for a few minutes to let the fumes clear before pulling the batch out.
- STEEL ONLY (no aluminum, be careful with brass)
- Yes, your neighbors will probably wonder why you are cooking so much meth outside and why you are pressure washing that same pallet in the driveway every single day, but to me this is easier than sandblasting.

It is slow going.... stripping all these parts took me a little over a month. Yes the heater was on constantly for a month at least. It took approximately $350 worth of drain cleaner, but I was buying it by the half pound instead of buying pure Lye in bulk like I should have. When you are done, disposal is easy. I threw some random wheel in the tank and let it sit, two weeks later when I pulled it out I could tell the solution was pretty neutral, so I dumped it in the yard and rinsed the barrel out. The crazy part is that all the paint that seems to come off in the barrel, completely dissolves into the solution. Once you dump it out the bottom of the barrel is clean.

Follow-up Post:

OH almost forgot.... LOOK
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