'97 D90 2.8TGV, plus a few goodies. - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old April 10th, 2014, 09:01 AM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,272
Registry
Really nice build. Can't wait to see what you cook up for the suspension. Those inside frame gussets should be really trick.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old April 10th, 2014, 09:19 AM
Rocky's Avatar
Rocky
Status: Offline
Chris
72 + D1 drivetrain
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Colonies Aka Boston
Posts: 8,789
Intrigued by the arrival of a SD cage. Are you going with an different style to the factory?
__________________
A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old April 10th, 2014, 09:43 AM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Really nice build. Can't wait to see what you cook up for the suspension. Those inside frame gussets should be really trick.
Thanks Don!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Intrigued by the arrival of a SD cage. Are you going with an different style to the factory?
The cage is an L213 full external that will be modified to retain the existing internal B-hoop. In addition to the added strength we'll see from running both hoops, the internal hoop is the fastening point for the cabin divider/dog guard that also serves a function for storage, so we'd like to hang onto it.

-Ash
__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old April 10th, 2014, 10:40 AM
Howski's Avatar
Howski
Status: Offline
Kevin
2002 Land Rover Discovery II
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 657
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash View Post
It really is a nice truck, just in need of a little refinement here and there. The biggest complaint I had after initially driving it were road manners and lateral stability, and that's one reason behind the total overhaul of the suspension. The owner is a great guy who has turned me loose on this thing and I think we both have high expectations of this revision. I'll reveal more details about the suspension when I have parts in hand.
IIRC it had a 3-link in the front so I can understand there being some issues on the road
__________________
My other car's a Land Rover
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old April 10th, 2014, 09:49 PM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Howski View Post
IIRC it had a 3-link in the front so I can understand there being some issues on the road
That's correct, although the issues aren't limited to road manners. In the few off-camber situations I put the truck in it felt really floppy and unpredictable. The traditional radius arm setup in the Rovers has a lot of anti-roll properties, so the trucks don't have a tremendous amount of body roll even in the absence of sway bars. The SG 3-link has a high roll axis angle, which results in tons of body roll, due mostly to a lack of triangulation. It can be combated with swaybars and properly tuned suspension, however the truck currently lacks either of those and the goal is to correct it. I'm optimistic!

Moving on! I chopped the lower perches off the tube this morning and the front of the truck is officially free of any coil-spring paraphernalia.



While the axle was torn down I disassembled the CV's to see what they looked like. To my surprise the half shaft retaining clip is absent on both sides, so Keith is getting me specs on replacement units. I was concerned about potential damage to the CV star but all looks well, fortunately.



After that I slapped the swivel balls and hubs loosely on the tube so that I could get the truck back on all four again. I'll be pulling the axle again once the diffs come back from inspection so a temporary solution is all that was necessary. I'm not sure how it'll ride with the new suspenders...



After that I needed a break from cutting, grinding and welding, so I took on a little therapeutic engine work. Since the 2.8 didn't come from a source we know, it was worth a peek inside to make sure no surprises were hiding out. The crank bolt was being stubborn anyways, so I needed to block the crank to pull the front cover and gain access to the timing set.



From there the front cover came off and I got to changing the timing belt, crank pulley, and tensioners. As previously mentioned, the engine has been sitting for some time so risking a dried out timing belt wasn't something we were comfortable with.



Align the timing marks.



Pin the injection pump with an 0.375 dowel, and swap the components.




It was mentioned to me that the 2.8 crank pulley was made of aluminum, which I didn't find to be the case on this setup. The replacement pulley in the kit we purchased does appear to be of higher quality, so I ditched the stock one anyways.



And the new components all installed.




That's all I have for today!

-Ash
__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old April 10th, 2014, 10:48 PM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
the camshaft pulley is the one to replace. Pendy told me it wears on pin and to replace with a tdi cam pulley. thats what i did 2 weeks ago.

------ Follow up post added April 10th, 2014 10:50 PM ------

here is mine
__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old July 1st, 2014, 12:48 AM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
I suppose we're about due for an update....

Things have been pretty crazy at the shop and I've been spread rather thin, to say the least, but I'm still chipping away at this one. It's an hour eater for sure. Pending my new fuel lines I'll be able to get this thing fired up, hopefully by the end of the week, but we'll rewind a bit.

Getting the engine all ready for the new Turner rear main seal. The crank had some rust and very light pitting where it rides on the seal, so I used a bit of emery cloth to try and clean the surface up to fight any potential wear.


After that the rear main seal, and M&D adapter kit got us ready for the ZF.


There's an interference issue with the 2.8 oil filter assembly when running 300Tdi engine mounts, so it was necessary to clock the filter rearward and out of the way for everything to clear and be happy.



Fast forward a bit. While test fitting the engine the first time around, there's yet another interference issue with the tabs on the 3-link crossmember and the transmission pan. Fortunately there's enough meat on the tab to safely trim away without compromising strength.



On the topic of the 3-link crossmember, since it sits further back than the V8 setup I needed to fab up a longer center link. 2" .250 wall DOM tubing might border on overkill, but at least it'll never be a failure point! It's beefy. 2" Currie Johnny Joint on the frame end, and I a solid bushing on the axle side.




Gears came back from a fresh setup. The previous install was a little on the loose side so it was worth doing. Ashcroft 4.34:1's and ARB RD128 lockers front and rear.


I'll continue in the next post!
__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old July 1st, 2014, 01:33 AM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
So what I consider to be the biggest hurdle on this truck has been the suspension. I have seen and known several people running coilovers with very mixed results, and the common issue seems to be that setup is paramount. Without being able to dedicate an obscene amount of time dialing in spring and valving rates, most people wind up with a suspension that doesn't quite work the way they'd like.

Enter ORI struts. I've had my eye on these things for a while now and watched them evolve, and everyone short of the high speed desert guys appear to love them. The premise is pretty straight forward; it's a nitrogen charged strut with gas chambers on both sides of the piston. The relationship between the pressures set in each chamber dictates ride height, as well as your effective spring rate. Raise the pressure in each chamber to stiffen the ride up, or lower them for a softer ride. One of the biggest appeals, aside from their relative simplicity and light weight, is that since the gas chambers are always working towards an equilibrium, the struts combat body roll. Most people who run these have ditched swaybars altogether.

I plan to run these on my personal 110, time permitting, but I found someone else crazy enough to be the guinea pig in the mean time. We opted for the struts in the 14" flavor, along with their optional remote gas reservoirs.


So of course, now I have to make them fit. And work. The first iteration worked great until the last inch of compression, where the tire began to contact the body of the strut. You can't win 'em all, so it was back to the drawing board. A few photos of the first configuration:

Axle tabs, lasered out of 3/16" steel. These did the job, and still remain. There's also a couple of gussets, not pictured.


I designed these little pads for the hoop set to sit on, as they'd give a bit more real estate to weld to the chassis than a traditional tube 'node'.


And the hoop itself. I'm actually happy the setup didn't work as the new configuration is much more tidy. Here's a shot cycling the suspension as well. Pardon the Instagram filter.


So after I realized the clearance issues couldn't be solved by modifying the hoops, I went with a coilover bracket. These are laser cut 1/4" steel folded and welded into shape.


After a little trimming to contour the chassis.


And burnt in. My uphill verticals aren't anything to write home about, so don't judge me.


Out of sequence, but here's the whole package. These allowed me to pull my upper mounts inward enough to clear the tire at full compression.


I still have to make the other pair work on the rear of the truck, which I'll document as I tackle it.
__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old July 1st, 2014, 02:00 AM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
Another aspect of the truck that I've been putting a custom touch on is the SD roll cage. The truck originally had a Front Runner full length rack, which the owner was very happy with, however fitting it to the cage would have been awkward, plus all said and done it'd add another 4" to the height of the already tall truck. So I engineered a nice little solution to have the best of both worlds.

I'll post photos of the whole setup later, but I designed a self-jigging shelf and had it laser cut out of 3/16" steel to hang 10 Front Runner roof slats along the centerline of the SD roof bars. I kept Front Runner's factory spacing, which will allow us to use all of their proprietary mounting solutions for Jerry cans and the like. Very happy with how this turned out.



I also added tabs to hang a pair of Baja Designs SII LED lights on either side, as well as the rear of the truck for 360-degrees of illumination.



As well as tabs for the 51" Baja Designs OnX LED bar. These have actually been re-designed to integrate an attachment point for limb risers.


Also needing modification to integrate with the SD cage was the original SD rear ladder on the truck. I spent all afternoon chopping it up and re-working it to fit. First thing to do was cut each set of rungs off the lateral bar, which spans the width of the truck and ties in to to where the blue tape is.


Then cut the elbow off said lateral bar to re-purpose.


Shorten, notch, and re-weld. I'm using a 1.75" bar clamp to attach to the roll cage.


Excuse the dirty gutters.



Another fun part is integrating the external B hoop to the internal. There's no bolt-on solution, so of course more fab work is required! I just notched a piece of tubing to jog out to body and use as a foot to bolt the external hoop to.

You can see the internal hoop from outside here.


And the tie-in.


I think that's all I have for now! I'll try and do a better job at keeping this thing updated.

-Ash
__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old July 1st, 2014, 07:41 AM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,272
Registry
Wow! Some awesome work there Ash! Love those coil overs and agree that the plate looks better than the tube mount and gives the clearance too. I hate when things don't work for me first try but when the solution looks and works better it makes it o so worth it. And those welds look real good. Much better than what I can do.

Those coil overs sound trick - I am not an expert on suspension designs but it sounds like that front end will work very well. Very interested to hear more about how they work out. Will do a search on them when I have a chance.

Btw - Will you need to add cross tubes or plating support for front and rear forces on the upper coil over mounts? Or are the travel forces pretty much up and down?
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old July 1st, 2014, 09:03 AM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Wow! Some awesome work there Ash! Love those coil overs and agree that the plate looks better than the tube mount and gives the clearance too. I hate when things don't work for me first try but when the solution looks and works better it makes it o so worth it. And those welds look real good. Much better than what I can do.

Those coil overs sound trick - I am not an expert on suspension designs but it sounds like that front end will work very well. Very interested to hear more about how they work out. Will do a search on them when I have a chance.

Btw - Will you need to add cross tubes or plating support for front and rear forces on the upper coil over mounts? Or are the travel forces pretty much up and down?
Thanks Don.

The coilover brackets are very rigid, however I will end up running a removable bar that ties both sides together just to play it safe. There are a lot of forces acting on them and a failure could make for a pretty bad day.

-Ash
__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old July 1st, 2014, 09:06 AM
Z.G's Avatar
Z.G
Status: Offline
Zack
300Tdi 95 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 4,684
Registry
Wow...that is quite the work Ash.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old August 24th, 2014, 03:30 PM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
I'll post a more thorough update soon, but just a few quick shots. She's starting to look like a truck again.


__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 09:17 PM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
Alright, now that I have a moment to breathe I suppose I should bring this one up to speed. I need to take proper pictures of a lot of aspects of the truck, but here's what I have on hand.

Let's see...back to the suspension I suppose. Once the front strut towers were dialed in I had to combat packaging issues with the steering shaft running from the column to the box. Flaming River makes a cut-to-fit steering shaft kit, which fit the bill for what needed to happen. A couple of U-Joints and a heim adapter later we were in business.





On to the rear of the truck! After the perches were removed, the first order of business was to plate the chassis. The boxed construction is rigid, however it's thin and I didn't want to chance a fatigue-related failure. After the plating was completed, towers and lower brackets were burnt into place.



__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 09:32 PM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
If you recall some time ago I showed photos of the auxiliary fuel tank designed for the truck. In my haste I forgot to document the installation of said tank, but one of the things that needed to be solved was how to handle fuel between the two tanks. After a lot of consideration, a reversible inline transfer pump seemed to be the best solution. With the flip of a switch you now have the ability to dump 10 gallons back into the primary tank.

I built a simple pickup tube for the primary tank using a -10AN bulkhead union.






And I fit a secondary fuel gauge in the MUD console to keep tabs on fuel levels. Due to the shape of the tank I was concerned about getting a solid understanding of how much fuel was in it, as a standard sending unit wouldn't give a linear readout. The float at the 'half-tank' position would actually be reading about 1/4 of a tank of fuel, so a custom application was in order. This tube-style sender is built specifically to the shape of the tank, and is scaled to give an accurate readout through the range. Works like a charm!

__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 09:43 PM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
Also previously mentioned was the on-board water system. We've housed 15 gallons on-board with a ceramic filter to make even water pulled from a natural source potable and safe for consumption. Water also passes through a coolant operated heat-exchanger which allows for a hot shower after a long day in the field.

The tank is located directly behind the driver's seat, and everything is plumbed into the passenger seatbox where I designed a little receptacle to house the water fittings. The white fitting is hot/cold out, and the gold fitting bypasses the tank which allows water to be pulled from an outside source. Above the gold fitting will be an air-chuck plumbed off the ARB compressor.


__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 10:02 PM
NPT90's Avatar
NPT90
Status: Offline
JT
D90 óriginalé
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: DC/MD
Posts: 2,772
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash View Post
Also previously mentioned was the on-board water system. We've housed 15 gallons on-board with a ceramic filter to make even water pulled from a natural source potable and safe for consumption. Water also passes through a coolant operated heat-exchanger which allows for a hot shower after a long day in the field. The tank is located directly behind the driver's seat, and everything is plumbed into the passenger seatbox where I designed a little receptacle to house the water fittings. The white fitting is hot/cold out, and the gold fitting bypasses the tank which allows water to be pulled from an outside source. Above the gold fitting will be an air-chuck plumbed off the ARB compressor.
Really cool idea, nice execution, now get a webasto coolant heater and put that in the system, warm showers with no engine idle!
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 10:03 PM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
In the rear of the truck is a rather intricate storage setup with tall boxes over each fender, a cubby covering the Engel and adjacent water tank, and a belly box that runs the depth of the cargo area.



Any truck with a fridge and stove needs a proper surface to work on, so the rear door needed a bit of a makeover. First thing to go was the flimsy door card, where a nice piece of stainless provided a solid piece to build off.



Next came the table itself. We started with a piece of 3/4" HDPE and milled an inlay for a removable bamboo cutting board. The bamboo serves as a 'sacrificial' piece that you can do some heavy cutting on without feeling guilty about marring up the table. Opposite the board is a drain channel to handle any fluids that may spill.




I'm not crazy about the gas strut setup a lot of guys are running, so the table is retained by a simple cam-lock system, and supported by cables on either side.




------ Follow up post added October 23rd, 2014 10:09 PM ------

Also located in the rear of the truck are a fire extinguisher (for obvious purposes) and a nitrogen tank which allows for changes to the ORI struts while out and about. Drake quick-release mounts keep both bottles safely in place.


__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 10:22 PM
Ash's Avatar
Ash
Status: Offline
Ash Heller
OM606 110 Frankenstein
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 665
And a few random shots from my phone.

Interior shot. You can see the auxiliary fuel gauge to the far right. Above is the switch which operates the transfer pump between the tanks.


Revision of the upper light bar tab. I needed an attachment point for the limb risers, so they're now integral to the light mount.


And the truck in its current state. We just returned from a pretty epic road trip covering 3,700 miles and several states. The bulk of our time was spent in Moab and Colorado.



__________________
Geared Restoration Co.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

352-572-3236

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old October 24th, 2014, 11:25 AM
James Pierce's Avatar
James Pierce
Status: Offline
James Pierce Jr.
1995 D90 SW #314, 59 SII 88 HT
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 797
Nice work
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Tags
90, 97, 97 d90, d90

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
97 D90 Owners tallest1 Misc. Chit-Chat 1 July 28th, 2009 12:34 AM
D90 won't start! rover4x4 Defender Technical Discussions 32 June 13th, 2005 08:42 AM
headers for '97 D90 mdmccallum Defender Technical Discussions 43 April 25th, 2005 10:23 AM
97 d90 LH drive parts steved90 Defender Technical Discussions 4 January 16th, 2005 08:23 AM
For Sale: '97 D90 ST-1791 Alpine White jwebster For Sale - Vehicles 0 September 30th, 2003 12:36 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:34 AM.


Copyright