'95 D90 Overhaul w/ 2.8L Diesel - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old June 9th, 2010, 10:03 PM
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Looking good!!
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  #42  
Old June 10th, 2010, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Vitale View Post
Not much left to do except body work.
Not to insult your intelligence, since you are doing such a nice job, but do you know all the tricks to get the body all lined up and the doors closing properly?
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  #43  
Old June 10th, 2010, 09:51 AM
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Wow...I have to say...clean work.

Nice external reservoir shocks! It's bling for sure
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  #44  
Old June 10th, 2010, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Not to insult your intelligence, since you are doing such a nice job, but do you know all the tricks to get the body all lined up and the doors closing properly?
Please post any tips / trick Jim, I am sure they will be handy when it comes time to build my 90
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  #45  
Old June 10th, 2010, 11:11 AM
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Lining up the body

Its a combination of my trial and error combined with Mike explaining how to do it properly. Here is the basics:

Place bulkhead on bolts
Drop rear tub in place, bolt loosely
Run a string along each side of the body at the top of the barrel roll
Use the string as a guide to "aim" the tub at the bulkhead - you don't want the string to "break" anywhere
Shim as necessary to make the string line perfect
Bolt tub
Establish proper door gaps by measuring/test fitting doors
Add/subtract washers from bulkhead bolt to achieve proper door gaps
Ensure bulkhead is perpendicular to chassis (i.e. that front and rear door jams are parallel)
Bolt down bulkhead and install front braces

Everything else "floats" on the bulkhead and tub, i.e. the fit of the seatbox, floors, and fenders is variable.

If you do it right, it will be an easy task to hang the doors and get them to latch easily without slamming. The 110 5-door is the hardest body to set up and this method worked great when I was doing mine.

Sorry for the crappy pic, its the only one I could find in my stash over here.
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  #46  
Old June 10th, 2010, 11:42 AM
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Thanks for that Jim. So I assume t posts are on during this process like your photo shows? Or do you line up bulkhead and tub only and assume t-posts will fit.

So you can only adjust the fit of the front doors correct as the middle doors are kind of set with how the t-posts attach to the rear tub?

This will be happening to me sooner than later so this helps!
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  #47  
Old June 10th, 2010, 01:18 PM
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Awesome Jim, thanks! I am getting close to getting my tub back on and was wondering how to properly do it. Have read nightmare stories about improper fit, etc. I am also wondering about the T posts. I guess I need to unbolt my seat box and let it "float" on the T posts.
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  #48  
Old June 10th, 2010, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Vitale View Post
And the promised pics...

Not much left to do except body work.
Man do I miss the "eat from the drivetrain" cleanliness. Looks good.
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  #49  
Old June 11th, 2010, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
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Man do I miss the "eat from the drivetrain" cleanliness. Looks good.

LOL... Me too...

Nice Work Bud....
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  #50  
Old June 11th, 2010, 11:45 AM
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There are two bolts in the floor of the tub. They permit basically no fore and aft or side to side or up and down play, only rocking the rear and the front (even that is minimal). I am kind of in a bind on mine as I chopped off the rear crossmember and am going to get the body all together and then weld on the replacement (it is held on by ropes now).
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  #51  
Old June 11th, 2010, 12:18 PM
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Ron when I did the frame stretch on my trailer I setup a jig to get the right (or at least existing) crossmember alignment. I then cut and extended the rails, and the jig kept the crossmember in the right plane etc. You should have done something similar with your frame. It's so much easier to weld without the body.
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  #52  
Old June 11th, 2010, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler Wirken View Post
Thanks for that Jim. So I assume t posts are on during this process like your photo shows? Or do you line up bulkhead and tub only and assume t-posts will fit.

So you can only adjust the fit of the front doors correct as the middle doors are kind of set with how the t-posts attach to the rear tub?

This will be happening to me sooner than later so this helps!
No! You definitely can't take the alignment of the t-posts for granted. I had to add a small shim between the t-piece and the bulkhead to get my front door gaps correct. Additionally, the back of my t-pieces were damaged (bent inwards) in shipping and I had to bend them back into the correct position. From talking to Mike, sometimes the only way to get the gaps perfect is to cut off the posts and re-weld. The rear door gaps should be very close if the t-pieces are made properly, but you need to line them up right so you have the right amount of flange sticking out from the tub (the flange that the door seal presses on to). You could conceivably have rear doors that shut OK but had bad door gaps since the striker attaches to the rear upright on the t-support but the visual part of the door gap is based on the leading edge of the tub and your placement of the triangle. I also had to shim behind my triangle piece to get it in the same plane as the body side.

When you have the t-pieces in, don't forget to install the rear section of the front seat to tie them together, otherwise they'll almost certainly flop inwards. I had to enlarge the holes on that panel to allow the t-pieces to spread apart far enough. Once the roof goes on, the position of the B-pillars should be good, but you want it to drop into place, and not have to torque on the B-pillars to spread them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
There are two bolts in the floor of the tub. They permit basically no fore and aft or side to side or up and down play, only rocking the rear and the front (even that is minimal). I am kind of in a bind on mine as I chopped off the rear crossmember and am going to get the body all together and then weld on the replacement (it is held on by ropes now).
? Which two bolts are these? The only ones I recall in the floor are the seat belt bolts. Otherwise, the tub just bolts at the back, and at the mounting feet for the rear seat supports, which in turn bolt to the crossmember that sits atop the frame. That crossmember has a great deal of left/right front/back adjust-ability and is height-adjustable with shims. In an ideal world, the tub would be perfect sitting on just its rubber bumpers.

I don't think you're too screwed as long as your body is still riveted together and the roof is on. Joe and I did the crossmember with the body on to make sure it lined up, and the rear end didn't appear to sag too badly, and we cut off more frame rail that you did. Of course we did finish welding with the body off, we needed to since we cut where the frame curves back up close to the tub.
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  #53  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:11 PM
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The two bolts next to the seat belt bolts that go all the way through the tub to the frame. Both of the donors I took apart had them.

I took everything apart. My plan is to put it all back together and then weld the crossmember on. I think it will be ok.
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  #54  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:33 PM
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Oh, you mean the one that bolts through the little upright right next to where the shock mounts - I just put that sucker in last. That can be shimmed and fiddled with like anything else, or am I missing something...

I still think you're gonna be OK with your plan. I mean, I'm sure the results will be Ron-good
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  #55  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:53 PM
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They go through the floor vertically, but the holes are not oval and, while suppose it could be shimmed up or down, it does not have any other movement and when I pulled both neither had shims.

I am pretty good with spacial relations so I think I can get it close enough.
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  #56  
Old June 20th, 2010, 07:15 PM
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Jim...Thanks for the tips!

Got stuff galvanized last week...thank you for the help John.

Wash, conditioned and primed the galvy for paint.

Magic garage does it again!... Dash is mostly together now.
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  #57  
Old September 2nd, 2010, 10:02 PM
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Tons of prep work completed over the past month.

Sanded the seat box to bare metal and rhino lined both sides, prepared tub for paint and rhino, installed new A/C system, put new skins on galvanized door frames, replaced both front wing side panels with new, various items painted and many other small miscellaneous projects completed.

Next step...tub, doors, and wing panels are going for paint on Tuesday.
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  #58  
Old September 4th, 2010, 10:03 AM
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That seatbox looks really nice

Do you know how thick they applied the rhino lining? seems thinner than the normal amount that you see on truck beds.
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  #59  
Old September 4th, 2010, 08:44 PM
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Thanks Dave.

It does seem thinner to me too...and I like it better this way. The rhino guy took his time to slowly build up the material so as to prevent any drips. Happy to report, not one drip.

The arrow, in the pic below, points to where I measured the thickness at 5.2 millimeters. Maybe you or someone else can provide a measurement without the rhino to back into the thickness.

I am having the front floor boards rhino lined too. I will take a before and after measurement in the coming weeks.
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  #60  
Old September 5th, 2010, 11:23 PM
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3mm on my new seatbox.
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