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  #61  
Old September 8th, 2014, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Blueboy View Post
Nice tip on the seals as for sure mine are also worn.

Wonder what the 807 stands for?

Are you replacing or resurfacing the wood trim?
I was wondering about the 807 myself.

It looks like I am going to have to get the ski jump modified and then the whole set redone so it all matches, but in the short term I will be using a Disco switchplate and rubber console mat. I was hoping to easily get my hands on a ski jump from a '98 LSE Discovery as it would be a drop in solution, even though the wood is a little more red than the rest of what came in the truck, but I can't find one. I'm also casually looking for the leather shift knob and door sill plates from an LSE
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  #62  
Old September 8th, 2014, 02:44 AM
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the original interior of mine was the cream colored leather which was also really worn. so we took the seating et all from the '93 which was saddle including the metal (aluminum) door sill plates. like the metal vs the plastic that was used.

project is coming along nicely and great to see the detail you're putting into it.
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  #63  
Old September 8th, 2014, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
Look closer you might see something else.
Seat covers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
I also replaced the battery in the seat memory ECU, doesn't look like it is gonna work though. Oh well, it was worth a shot.
Mine was a goner. Leaked acid, traces destroyed on the board.
I pulled the whole ECU and put in a '91 non-memory controller.

But I have no mirror control.


.
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  #64  
Old September 12th, 2014, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Seat covers?



Mine was a goner. Leaked acid, traces destroyed on the board.
I pulled the whole ECU and put in a '91 non-memory controller.

But I have no mirror control.


.
OK tearing into this, at the very least need a semi-easy way to move the driver seat where I want it. The passenger seat bottom moves, but the recline isn't working.



If anyone knows how to keep tapatalk from inverting image captures let me know... here is a better shot of the plug to the power seat motors:



And a diagram for reference

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  #65  
Old September 12th, 2014, 05:22 PM
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The recline motor on the passenger seat is dead. I've actually never changed one, I usually have good luck with seats and bad luck with the switches. But they can't be too hard because we have sold dozens of these motors over the years. Unlike a D2, all the motors are the same as one another. They are the same as the ones in a D1, which is good, because I have a donor.

Now the fun part.
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  #66  
Old September 12th, 2014, 05:40 PM
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Success

And it's tested good

Now to swap it out. With the seat base raised front and rear, and the seat motor plastic cover off, you can get to the motors fairly easy. Driver side pictured for reference, I'm actually working on the passenger side, with the seat remaining bolted in place, and the seat base trim is already off which helps, also the old EAS relays and computer are removed. Another way to do it would be to just remove the seat bolts and tilt it back, or just remove the seat altogether, but I didn't want to do that just yet. Around here if too many parts like seats are pulled out of a truck, before you know it there isn't anything left but the shell.



Got the motor swapped, works great but it seems the recline function of the switch isn't working. The switch from the donor truck reclines great, but won't move the seat back/forth.

Like I said, bad luck with switches. At least I can move the seats where I want now though.
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  #67  
Old September 12th, 2014, 07:44 PM
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OK I've come this far, I hate to not halfway fix this mess.
I have tried to take these switches apart in the past, and never put one back together. So, I decided to take the donor switch apart and it exploded in my hands. But it gave me an idea- I really only need to clean the contacts for the recline function, everything else about my original switch works perfectly. The recline motor has probably been dead for years and that explains what's wrong with the switch.

So I took the exploded switch carcass and marked where the contacts I needed to hit were, and then marked my original switch exactly the same. Then I very VERY carefully drilled two TINY holes, then by hand stuck the drillbit in the holes until I hit the contacts. One or two spins of the bit, just enough to scrape the oxidation off the contacts. Plugged it back in, and now it works. Probably not a permanent solution, but good enough so I can halfway button up this power seat phase of the project.

The remaining half is to rewire the driver side of the truck to remove the memory seat "feature" and then work out a way to retain power adjustable mirrors. This really can't be too complex, a D1 uses the same mirror switch and same power seat mechanics and doesn't have "memory".
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  #68  
Old September 12th, 2014, 09:20 PM
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Nice progress.
On my 93, I just removed the seat ECU and plugged in a plain RR seat control.


.
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  #69  
Old September 12th, 2014, 09:20 PM
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Also, got this in this week, yes it is NOS



------ Follow up post added September 12th, 2014 09:27 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Nice progress.
On my 93, I just removed the seat ECU and plugged in a plain RR seat control.


.
What's that look like? Or do you have the part number?

I don't get it though, there isn't one for the passenger side. My passenger seat is fully functional with no seat ECU. Why do I need one for the driver?
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  #70  
Old September 12th, 2014, 09:32 PM
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I just used a plain non-memory seat switch box from a 91.
As I recall, it was plug n play on the 93; didn't even have to splice any wires.
Your 95 will likely have different connectors but that's it.

Where did you dig up a NOS turn signal??


.
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  #71  
Old September 12th, 2014, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I just used a plain non-memory seat switch box from a 91.
As I recall, it was plug n play on the 93; didn't even have to splice any wires.
Your 95 will likely have different connectors but that's it.

Where did you dig up a NOS turn signal??


.
Connections should be the same on all 93-95 I believe, but were all the connections the same on that '91 box?

I didn't even realize the earlier trucks had these things. My '88 didn't, but they were a little different.
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  #72  
Old September 13th, 2014, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
Connections should be the same on all 93-95 I believe, but were all the connections the same on that '91 box?
Basically, you're just unplugging the seat ECU and putting a non-memory switch in.
There is a 3-pin plug going to the seat switch box and then the big plug which will connect to your seat motor plug.
It's all part of the switch pigtail.
You won't have mirror function anymore because that was also controlled by the ECU.
But how often do you really need to look behind you...


Of course, you already know its a PITA changing anything under a seat that doesn't move and then changing the switches is kinda a pain too.

.
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  #73  
Old September 13th, 2014, 08:28 AM
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Joel, you haven't done your RRC pennance fully until you have successfully disassembled and cleaned a driver's seat switch. Open up a spot on your bench, get a good light on it and be sure to put a cloth down under it. When you open it up there's a little universe of ball bearings, springs and brass rockers. Fascinating stuff.
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  #74  
Old September 13th, 2014, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Joel, you haven't done your RRC pennance fully until you have successfully disassembled and cleaned a driver's seat switch. Open up a spot on your bench, get a good light on it and be sure to put a cloth down under it. When you open it up there's a little universe of ball bearings, springs and brass rockers. Fascinating stuff.
I did disassemble one. I'll need a broom to clean it though. I used to have a box full of switches that just needed cleaning, but that takes time. And time is money. And money also buys new switches.
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  #75  
Old September 13th, 2014, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Basically, you're just unplugging the seat ECU and putting a non-memory switch in.
There is a 3-pin plug going to the seat switch box and then the big plug which will connect to your seat motor plug.
It's all part of the switch pigtail.
You won't have mirror function anymore because that was also controlled by the ECU.
But how often do you really need to look behind you...


Of course, you already know its a PITA changing anything under a seat that doesn't move and then changing the switches is kinda a pain too.

.
Yes that's exactly what I was thinking, rewire the switch to eliminate the memory unit. I thought you were saying that there was a non-memory type seat ecu, which had me scratching my head. You could do it with swapping the harness to the switch like you did, I think the part number is PRC7050, but I'm not sure that the switch has to be changed. Come to think of it I think you are right about the power supply plug being different on the 1995 model, its not the triangle three prong.

I had everything I would need, but I gave it to the guy when he bought my 1988 truck. Looks like I might be building a harness today from stuff pirated from a D1
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  #76  
Old September 13th, 2014, 12:26 PM
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Exactly .
You might just have to resplice the small connector .
On the 93, it was quick and easy- just pull the ECU, remove memory switch, too- and put in non-mem switch.

And I have no desire to join the I-Rebuilt-A-RRC-Seat-Switch Club.
.
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  #77  
Old September 13th, 2014, 05:44 PM
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Pirated some more wiring from the D1, this is the passenger side stuff, note that this turned out to be slightly different, I ended up clipping the driver side wiring and using it.

You have to use this wiring because the wiring to the memory switch is a lot smaller gage than the non memory switch wiring.

Similarly, the power to the switch from the seat ecu, or even into the seat ecu, is on much smaller wires than the non memory switch. On the passenger side, there are two 12g hot wires and one 12g ground into the switch and eight 14g wires out to the motors (four pairs). The hot wires are 12v constant power, and the ground is switched by a relay under the seat.


Earlier I mentioned how the EAS stuff had all been removed from under the passenger side seat, but the wiring is still there, as well as the maxifuse, this is good.


I ran the two constant hot wires from the maxifuse, and added another relay wired in exactly the same manner as the existing one to provide the new switched ground wire for the driver side switch. Then spliced the D1 seat motor plug to the wiring and hooked it all up, with the original memory switch, and it works 100%




Now to clean it all up and put it back together.
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  #78  
Old September 13th, 2014, 08:53 PM
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Nice job!

.
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  #79  
Old September 14th, 2014, 03:53 PM
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Nice job!

.
Quick follow up notes- turns out that you can use the power feed for the seat ECU, and not have to run as wires across from the passenger seat. I missed the plug when I was looking yesterday, the only difference of note is there are two ground wires on the driver's side and they are switched via the driver seat relay- which either is switched by the driver's door being open OR the passenger seat relay being switched (ignition switch on). I may rewire in this manner, that would free up the old EAS power feed under the passenger seat for future use for something else, like supplying a 12v socket in the cargo area for my fridge freezer.
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  #80  
Old September 14th, 2014, 10:03 PM
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Awesome!!!
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