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  #281  
Old October 29th, 2014, 11:40 AM
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Jeff B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKmtrsp View Post
Thanks, I ordered most bits from your ebay page last evening...will order the switch bezel this morning. Great info...trying to keep the old truck on the road and looking good

Chip
Hey Chip- good to see you found your way to this build thread- if you have any Classic questions, especially concerning the '95, Crown14 is your guy.


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  #282  
Old October 29th, 2014, 01:22 PM
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extra bits

Now thats a man that knows how to cultivate and retain a customer...great customer service...thanks Joel...I'll be looking your way first when I need something else in the future.

take care, Chip

------ Follow up post added October 29th, 2014 11:29 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by roverguy View Post
This thread has been great, hopefully this spring I will start a thread on mine, pulling the seat ecu while I still have full control of everything
Pulled my ECU out when I bought the truck...still haven't attempted to fix the board yet. Typically the seat switches were working the mirrors...crosstracking on the board from the battery leaking...doesn't look to bad though. We'll see if I can get it up and working again.

Chip
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  #283  
Old October 29th, 2014, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
Before I forget I should probably list my current issues

Drivers seat belt "button" missing
AC inoperable
Driver's lower door hinge issue
Rattle in RH lower dash area
Some of the "new" door seals not working great
A few switches in the dash not working (dome light, etc)
Radio back light out
Catalytic converters rattling

To do list
Instrument cluster bezel repair
Strip and powder coat roof rack
Finish detailing chassis/wheel wells
Trim/reinstall front valance maybe?
Replace steering linkage components and align


Maintenance
Renew cooling system components, thermostat, all hoses, etc
Evaluate condition of brake discs and pads, wheel bearings, etc
Replace brake hoses
Replace power steering hoses

I'm seriously considering refinishing the original alloys and using them instead of the steel wheels. Or painting the steelies white. Or maybe white wolf wheels.
Joel,

I think the original alloys are the way to go here...light and strong. I'll be watching the progress on the cluster bezel as mine is cracked.

Chip
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  #284  
Old October 29th, 2014, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverguy View Post
This thread has been great, hopefully this spring I will start a thread on mine, pulling the seat ecu while I still have full control of everything
Quote:
Originally Posted by UKmtrsp View Post
Now thats a man that knows how to cultivate and retain a customer...great customer service...thanks Joel...I'll be looking your way first when I need something else in the future.

take care, Chip

------ Follow up post added October 29th, 2014 11:29 AM ------



Pulled my ECU out when I bought the truck...still haven't attempted to fix the board yet. Typically the seat switches were working the mirrors...crosstracking on the board from the battery leaking...doesn't look to bad though. We'll see if I can get it up and working again.

Chip
On Instagram now too...
http://instagram.com/p/utkhRMESK5/
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  #285  
Old October 29th, 2014, 08:50 PM
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I don't like the way those steel wheels look. I think some alloys would definitely look better. I think some Boosts would be the obvious choice
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  #286  
Old October 29th, 2014, 10:46 PM
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I'm not scared of boosts on a RRC!
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  #287  
Old October 30th, 2014, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
I think the original alloys are the way to go here...light and strong.
Agreed, yet when mine were delivered, I am surprized at how heavy they really are and how easily the lip can be bent which happened to the one.
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  #288  
Old October 30th, 2014, 09:48 PM
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Donated from a 2004 disco parts truck:

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  #289  
Old October 30th, 2014, 10:48 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Where is the actual seat ECU? Mine is starting to exhibit symptoms. I assume it's under the seat base, right?
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  #290  
Old October 30th, 2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cellulararrest View Post
Where is the actual seat ECU? Mine is starting to exhibit symptoms. I assume it's under the seat base, right?
Under the driver seat
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  #291  
Old October 30th, 2014, 11:02 PM
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Get to it and remove that battery quickly if you've got symptoms...you can google search for information about the issues...battery leaks on printed circuit board and causes crosstracking of the board wiring underneath the battery...seat switches work the mirrors, etc.

Good luck,

Chip
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  #292  
Old October 31st, 2014, 08:48 AM
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Chris Snyder
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Yeah, crap. I am only just learning about the seat ECU's in the later models having previously only owned two '91's. I fear it's too late at this point. I guess we'll find out when I extract the thing.
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  #293  
Old October 31st, 2014, 08:50 AM
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Best to adjust seats and mirrors where you want them before removing module...just saying
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  #294  
Old October 31st, 2014, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKmtrsp View Post
Best to adjust seats and mirrors where you want them before removing module...just saying
Seats are easy to adjust with a jumper wire or Power Probe. The mirrors can be adjusted manually.
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  #295  
Old October 31st, 2014, 09:46 AM
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On my '95 LWB I used a seat switch from an earlier RRC for the driver's side seat when I deleted the seat module. It took me awhile to get the jumpers I added under the seat right but it works fine now. With the mirrors I used a Disco 1 mirror switch and added a power jumper to wire it like the Disco. I found out that on my truck the rear wiper was on the same circuit, getting its power from the module, so I ended up wiring it like the earlier RRC by adding a jumper for power at the relay.
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  #296  
Old October 31st, 2014, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LRover View Post
On my '95 LWB I used a seat switch from an earlier RRC for the driver's side seat when I deleted the seat module. It took me awhile to get the jumpers I added under the seat right but it works fine now. With the mirrors I used a Disco 1 mirror switch and added a power jumper to wire it like the Disco. I found out that on my truck the rear wiper was on the same circuit, getting its power from the module, so I ended up wiring it like the earlier RRC by adding a jumper for power at the relay.
This is what I'm going to be doing for my mirrors, can you tell us what wire you used? I have noticed that while the part number is the same for the Disco and 95 RRC mirror switch, the 95 RRC switch has one less pin in the switch.

For the seat switch, you actually don't have to change the switch at all, just the wiring.
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  #297  
Old October 31st, 2014, 11:08 AM
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Its that extra pin that the Disco mirror switch has that you need and if I remember right, it is for the power lead. I have another '95 LWB that I am going to do the same module delete to and I will try to get a picture of the wire connections tomorrow.

I just used the earlier model seat switch to get rid of the 1&2 positions. I've been lurking, following your build. You've got your truck looking really nice.
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  #298  
Old October 31st, 2014, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by LRover View Post
Its that extra pin that the Disco mirror switch has that you need and if I remember right, it is for the power lead. I have another '95 LWB that I am going to do the same module delete to and I will try to get a picture of the wire connections tomorrow.

I just used the earlier model seat switch to get rid of the 1&2 positions. I've been lurking, following your build. You've got your truck looking really nice.
I saved the memory switch wiring in case I wanted to control something else later on. Like air horns or nitrous.

I'm out this morning doing Halloween stuff with the kids, when I get back I am going to play with the mirror wiring again!
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  #299  
Old November 2nd, 2014, 01:26 PM
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I think I forgot to mention, back when I was replacing the engine mounts, I let the engine tilt back too far and I busted up the wiring for the stepper motor (and the stepper motor as well)



I went by the junkyard and clipped a pigtail off a 1987 Chevy S-10 to repair it.



I also installed two new O2 sensors before I reinstalled the transmission. I used the Walker branded sensors- they are actually made by NTK but in the Walker box they are about 25 bucks cheaper.

Instead of the shaft that was on my ZF transmission, I used a very good condition spud shaft out of a very low mileage truck and I've got no nasty CLUNK when I let off the throttle or shift into reverse from park. I also replaced the transmission output seal and transfer case input seals to prevent any leaks.





I also installed a pair of JATE rings, one up front and one in the rear. You know, just in case.





I think that's most of what I forgot to post in the pre-Uwharrie rush...
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  #300  
Old November 2nd, 2014, 02:46 PM
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Your truck looks great! How much to send mine for a refresh????
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