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  #241  
Old October 25th, 2014, 08:19 AM
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Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
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Jeezis don't hurt it.
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  #242  
Old October 25th, 2014, 10:05 AM
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Wish I had been able to make it to URE...
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  #243  
Old October 25th, 2014, 08:57 PM
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Brian Kandefer
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Got to see the truck today in person, Joel has done a great job with this one!!
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  #244  
Old October 26th, 2014, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Jeezis don't hurt it.
Not a scratch

And seat covers still smell good too
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  #245  
Old October 26th, 2014, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Would be interested to hear how much people snag on the neoprene
The Labs with their paws / nails never snagged it.
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  #246  
Old October 26th, 2014, 10:11 PM
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Jesse McCoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_G View Post

Also worth noting I've had zero fitment issues with all the 'carhart' covers I've put on D1 & RRC's, it takes a minute to get a good fit but they fit well.
Have a link or model number on the Carhartt covers? I have a RRC in need of some.
Thanks in advance
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  #247  
Old October 26th, 2014, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JBurt View Post
Have a link or model number on the Carhartt covers? I have a RRC in need of some.
Thanks in advance
Carhartt doesn't make covers for RRC as far as I know. Ray has Kexby on his Disco which has a RRC rear seat IIRC so maybe that is what he meant. He posted some pics on the forum when he installed them. Maybe send him a private message.
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  #248  
Old October 27th, 2014, 04:07 AM
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Ray Gerber
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The carhartt comment segued from Doug's mention of them. I do have Kexby in my D1 (which has a RRC rear seat in it). Pics are floating around various places-for that application I like the canvas given how the truck has been used. I am interested in the neoprene b/c it seems like a potentially good option for my LR3, esp out here with the temps being what they are. I asked about the snagging and such just to see how their wear would work, admittedly my application in the D3 is a lot different than my D1.

This RRC looks fantastic BTW. Nice balance of utility but retaining the beauty of the stock-like elements.
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  #249  
Old October 27th, 2014, 09:32 AM
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Doug Crowther
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sorry for any confusion my comments may have caused. The leather drivers seat bottom in my Ford f250 needs covering (the way I'm going to use it new leather makes no sense) and my choices have narrowed down to http://www.wetokole.com/ for neoprene/incredible fit or http://www.covercraft.com/seat_covers_carhartt.html for seemingly appropriate durability. To my knowledge it looks like for the most part Carhartt covers are limited to the big 3 iron.

Tony/Kexby doesn't make anything for a ford or I'd be hitting him up.

If I order Carhartt now, delivery time is January 2015. Eff that.

Sorry for the de-rail Joel. Truck looks great.
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  #250  
Old October 27th, 2014, 09:53 AM
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So Joel....when is she going up for sale?
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  #251  
Old October 27th, 2014, 09:58 AM
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So Joel....when is she going up for sale?
Building to a sale hasn't been the point with this one. But if the offer was right...

------ Follow up post added October 27th, 2014 10:00 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
sorry for any confusion my comments may have caused. The leather drivers seat bottom in my Ford f250 needs covering (the way I'm going to use it new leather makes no sense) and my choices have narrowed down to http://www.wetokole.com/ for neoprene/incredible fit or http://www.covercraft.com/seat_covers_carhartt.html for seemingly appropriate durability. To my knowledge it looks like for the most part Carhartt covers are limited to the big 3 iron.

Tony/Kexby doesn't make anything for a ford or I'd be hitting him up.

If I order Carhartt now, delivery time is January 2015. Eff that.

Sorry for the de-rail Joel. Truck looks great.
I heard from some super duty guys that the Carhartt covers fade a bit over time. Makes sense as so do their pants.
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  #252  
Old October 27th, 2014, 04:49 PM
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  #253  
Old October 27th, 2014, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post

------ Follow up post added September 7th, 2014 06:43 PM ------

Sad to think, most people would bill this as "rust free", and while it looks pretty sweet, there is a little in the passenger front floor...

It isn't very bad yet though, no holes or anything. Will address this in more detail later on.

Here are detail shots of the other side to show how it starts- from the front mudflap mount bracket. As if mudflap bracket hadn't been mentioned enough in this thread yet.
How did you remove the giant pad in the driver side footwell? I've never checked my truck for rust and probably need too...
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  #254  
Old October 27th, 2014, 06:20 PM
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For those photos I just propped it up. Over the winter I'll pull the front seats, console, dash, carpets, and padding and go to town.
In the meantime I want to drive it more.
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  #255  
Old October 27th, 2014, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
For those photos I just propped it up. Over the winter I'll pull the front seats, console, dash, carpets, and padding and go to town.
In the meantime I want to drive it more.
The pad is glued to the floor though... Just peel it up?
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  #256  
Old October 27th, 2014, 07:32 PM
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None of mine have ever been glued to the floor.
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  #257  
Old October 27th, 2014, 07:50 PM
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I'll check it when I get home, but that pad wasn't moving.
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  #258  
Old October 27th, 2014, 08:10 PM
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After being sandwiched in one place for 20 some years they usually are kinda stuck in place but should come up without too much trouble
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  #259  
Old October 27th, 2014, 08:17 PM
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There is a layer of bituminous sound deadening material under the pad. You need to use a mud knife to get between the foam and this stuff. Work it slowly so you don't tear the pad.
In addition, the main wire harnesses for the efi (pax side) and the seats/Wabco (driver) run on top of the pad with nylon tie straps attached to the floor holding the wires in place. The pad also runs under the heater.
If you want to remove the pad in one piece you'll have to undo all that wiring and remove the heater.
You can cut the pad into manageable chunks and just reconnect it with a layer of dynamat later.
It's a major fuster cluck to remove in one piece and it'll prolly tear anyway.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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All my troubles are Rover
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  #260  
Old October 27th, 2014, 08:35 PM
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Jeff B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
After being sandwiched in one place for 20 some years they usually are kinda stuck in place but should come up without too much trouble
The few I've checked out that were *glued* to the floor was because the rust had stuck to the sponge pad!

.
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