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  #61  
Old September 25th, 2014, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplorUtah View Post
Nice! Where did you source the headliner? I need one for my newly acquired 1995 SWB.
I just had my local guy do it-$125 because I took it out and delivered it.

If you were closer I'd make you a deal on a SWB headliner...I've got one sitting in my shed taking up space.


.
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  #62  
Old September 25th, 2014, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I just had my local guy do it-$125 because I took it out and delivered it.

If you were closer I'd make you a deal on a SWB headliner...I've got one sitting in my shed taking up space.


.
Dammit. Well the headliner in mine is perfect, no marks etc, just drooping. From my reading it sounds as though I cannot rescue it, a new one is required. Oh well...

Has anyone used these...not to hijack thread...
http://www.headlinerexpress.com/impo...ive-p-776.html
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  #63  
Old October 8th, 2014, 08:56 AM
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Drivers side seat base cover- cracked but useable.

C-14, you think your plastic stapler could work its magic on this piece?
It's missing the top corner where the front screw goes but that's not critical to my needs.

.
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  #64  
Old October 8th, 2014, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Drivers side seat base cover- cracked but useable.

C-14, you think your plastic stapler could work its magic on this piece?
It's missing the top corner where the front screw goes but that's not critical to my needs.

.
Oh yeah, easy fix with the hot stapla
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  #65  
Old October 8th, 2014, 11:34 AM
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Jeff, I find that the best fix is plastic model cement. Try using the watery kind, which is pretty much just methylene chloride. That dissolves the plastic inside the crack and fuses it back together. Then, to reinforce it, glue on a bit more plastic sheet. You can get the polystyrene in sheets at the hobby store. You can also cut up another busted panel to use as backer.
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  #66  
Old October 8th, 2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Jeff, I find that the best fix is plastic model cement. Try using the watery kind, which is pretty much just methylene chloride. That dissolves the plastic inside the crack and fuses it back together. Then, to reinforce it, glue on a bit more plastic sheet. You can get the polystyrene in sheets at the hobby store. You can also cut up another busted panel to use as backer.
C'mon dude your way is only the "best fix" because you've never tried my way. The difference is I have tried your way and it just isn't as strong as embedding stainless steel reinforcement into the plastic.

Do we need to have a "fix-off" sucka
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  #67  
Old October 8th, 2014, 06:24 PM
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Jeff - did you remove your headliner by yourself or did you have a helper? Also, an tips on removing the beast? I've got to have mine redone as well, but I don't have the facility to do it myself, though I can certainly remove it. TIA.

Cheers,
pc
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  #68  
Old October 8th, 2014, 07:03 PM
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shayne young
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I definitely think crowns is the best way to fix it..I saw his fix on a unit and I was impressed..and rarely am I impressed by anyone on this board..
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  #69  
Old October 8th, 2014, 07:13 PM
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Joel, my way costs less than $5 uncluding equipment. To my mind that's "best"
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  #70  
Old October 8th, 2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pl626 View Post
Jeff - did you remove your headliner by yourself or did you have a helper? Also, an tips on removing the beast? I've got to have mine redone as well, but I don't have the facility to do it myself, though I can certainly remove it. TIA.

Cheers,
pc
Peter, I took out the headliner myself and delivered it to my headliner shop guy. Since I wasnt fooling with the sunroof it was only $125.
It is easier to reinstall with 2 people because it wants to bend at the sunroof.

I may have to employ both of the above mentioned plastic repairs. I'll see if Joel can hot staple my crack, but I will have to make up some plastic for the thin broken piece above the window switches.

Now, for something else...

How about this???
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  #71  
Old October 8th, 2014, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Joel, my way costs less than $5 uncluding equipment. To my mind that's "best"
Now it's known far and wide you are the original cheap bastard, but I'm going to swat your logic with a cookie sheet. We all know how valuable trim can be, within 5 minutes I permanently repaired one or two parts and my $150 hot stapler had paid for itself. It comes with 300 staples and when you run out 400 staples cost $35 from my supplier in the UK. Unless the glue fumes have really got you I think you can do that math.

------ Follow up post added October 8th, 2014 07:44 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar;

Now, for something else...

How about this???
Yeah I can't staple that one.

------ Follow up post added October 8th, 2014 07:47 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by pl626 View Post
Jeff - did you remove your headliner by yourself or did you have a helper? Also, an tips on removing the beast? I've got to have mine redone as well, but I don't have the facility to do it myself, though I can certainly remove it. TIA.

Cheers,
pc
In a month or so I am going to remove and recover my RRC headliner, if you can remove it, you can reupholster it yourself with a little patience. If you can wait for me to get to mine, I'll post full details in my build thread and then you can decide whether to give it a shot.
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  #72  
Old October 8th, 2014, 07:56 PM
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Dude get your butt up here and help me!
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  #73  
Old October 8th, 2014, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post

In a month or so I am going to remove and recover my RRC headliner, if you can remove it, you can reupholster it yourself with a little patience. If you can wait for me to get to mine, I'll post full details in my build thread and then you can decide whether to give it a shot.
C14 - I would do the whole job myself, but sadly, I don't have a garage or large dust free environment to work with something as large as the headliner, the sunroof panel I can handle. But I would certainly love to hear about your experience before I take a stab at it.
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  #74  
Old October 8th, 2014, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
P

How about this???
is that on your 300 block ? Is that @ the front behind the alternator ?
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  #75  
Old October 8th, 2014, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
is that on your 300 block ? Is that @ the front behind the alternator ?
It's the one in back by the starter...

How hard is it to change one out??

Does the turbo and/or intake & exhaust have to come off?
I'm pretty sure I'll have to pull the starter...AGAIN....to get access...

.
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  #76  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 02:39 PM
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update: Freeze plug replaced; no leaking


Now, installing a pyrometer guage and a pressure guage.
Got the bung welded in last night.
Its much more difficult to weld small than to weld big.
I will need to get a tee piece for the vacuum hose.
The hardest part of this is placing the guage pod on the RRC coin tray spot-center dash.

.
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  #77  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 06:29 PM
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How is the 300 Tdi with the automatic?
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  #78  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
How is the 300 Tdi with the automatic?
Lightning fast!

LOL
Not too bad really, running around town isnt bad at all.
I had to adjust the kickdown cable several times to get it to shift right.


My not-too-hacked-up guage install.

.
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  #79  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 08:04 PM
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Have you driven one with a manual? I've never driven an auto 300 Tdi, so I was curious of the differences.
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  #80  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 08:26 AM
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I have not driven a manual 300, but I've driven behind some of them....cough,cough.


EGT gauge seems to be working...

edit-crappy ipicture, but it was reading approx. 700*F under acceleration.
.
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