90 Face frame swap and LHD conversion - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 19th, 2013, 05:47 PM
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Brian Kandefer
1957 107 wagon, 94 arles St, 101 FC
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90 Face frame swap and LHD conversion

Ok, soooo I got this truck in August of last year on a trade for a 85 Scrambler that I flipped. When I got I did not know a thing about Land Rovers, except that the 90's always made my pants tight. So after a bunch of research and meeting a bunch of new ppl that I have built good relationships I am under taking my break down and build. I will post pics from day one til today, I am plaining this to take six to eight weeks. Here are some pics and then post my list of plains for this thing. Well here goes nothing!!!
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  #2  
Old January 19th, 2013, 05:52 PM
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Brian Kandefer
1957 107 wagon, 94 arles St, 101 FC
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Ok, so I have been collecting parts for the last six months. Including doors, fenders, grill assembly, nas frame, nas tub, and everything for a LHD conversion. Before I get castrated I am converting so I call sell easier and for more money in end! There are way to many cool RHD just sitting around not selling that I would love to own, oh and my much better half said it is the only way I could keep it! I have no argument that has a chance against a 120lb 15 week preggers wife! I justify it by thinking that it will make it easier to sell. To-do 97 NAS frame swap, convert engine mounts and add side gas tank. Gonna run duel tanks with a 200 tdi. Have it sand blasted and powder coated, along with all Safari Gard stage three suspension. Swapping 97 NAS tub, body parts and bulkhead are all going to be disassembled and painted willow green. That's a good start along with the LHD conversion. Over the past six months I have made my own front bumper, rear cross member, rear quarter guards and rear tire carrier. My rear ROW tub along with old frame will be converted to a trail rig trailer. Here are a some pic of the last ten hours of break down! Let the fun begin!!! The last pic is just inspiration.
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  #3  
Old January 19th, 2013, 06:17 PM
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FYI side tank just bolts into place on the RH side no modification necessary just use the brackets from your old frame / tank.

if it were me and I had a frame with the NAS gas tank mounts in the rear I would just run the rear tank, the side tanks hang down too low.
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Old January 19th, 2013, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
FYI side tank just bolts into place on the RH side no modification necessary just use the brackets from your old frame / tank.

if it were me and I had a frame with the NAS gas tank mounts in the rear I would just run the rear tank, the side tanks hang down too low.
I got the mounts off today, super easy. As for running the side tank, I haven't had any issues with the skid plate that I have. Would rather have a 28 gallons on board, the pros out weigh the con of a low tank.
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Old January 19th, 2013, 10:15 PM
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Brian Kandefer
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This is what I am going for!
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  #6  
Old January 20th, 2013, 05:23 AM
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Cool project, are you going to galvanize the Frame?
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  #7  
Old January 20th, 2013, 07:53 AM
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nice to see you moving a long with the project.
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  #8  
Old January 20th, 2013, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwilder View Post
Cool project, are you going to galvanize the Frame?
I have gone back and forth about it, and ultimately I am just going to sand blast it and powder coat it. Forgive me when I say I don't care for the look of galvanized, but I understand how durable it is. What I wanted to do was have it dipped stripped, galvanized and them powder coated. Due to cost and ultimately my time frame sand blasting and powder has a much faster turn around. I am looking to get this project done in 6-8 weeks. Dipping and galvanizing would take a minimal of four to five weeks, my goal is to get it to sand blasting Monday and pick it up from powder on Friday and have a rolling chassis by the end of the weekend.
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  #9  
Old January 20th, 2013, 09:12 AM
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I had my frame galvanized while I waited for it. 3 hrs out the door, but this probably was an unusual situation. I have an NAS frame that was stripped and epoxy painted a year ago and kept inside. After getting it from a friend ( lost interest in the project),I was about to start putting the truck together as is when I noticed it starting to rust already. After reading it here a million times and then heraing once in person, I made a few calls and decided to get it dipped. Worked out so well I'm probably going back with the bulkhead.
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Old January 20th, 2013, 09:16 AM
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Getting it galvanized takes no more time than powder coating and if you go to resell it you will get more money and have more people interested.

Just FYI
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  #11  
Old January 20th, 2013, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Getting it galvanized takes no more time than powder coating and if you go to resell it you will get more money and have more people interested.

Just FYI
I know the turn around Is to long but that's all well and good if you have shop that has nothing to do, the only chem dip place near my house is almost two hours and has a two week wait along with a ten day turn around, and the only place that will Galvanize is about an hour in the opposite direction. I have built two show quality trucks in the past, my first one was a 73 bronco that was powder coated chassis and it still looks perfect, and its been 7 years! I know I'm not going to win this battle.
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  #12  
Old January 20th, 2013, 09:30 AM
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a note on reselling. The truck will sell for more and faster w/o the safari gard stage 3 suspension. Taking these trucks back to stock seems to be the silver bullet for a quick sale @ best price point
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Old January 20th, 2013, 09:41 AM
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Brian Kandefer
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Question? I was told the best way to treat before galvanizing is to chemically dip, sand blasting doesn't get the interior of the frame? Do I have to have it chemically dipped before galvanizing? I don't know why you even have to treat before galvanizing? Six months ago I thought you only galvanized fence posts, now in the land rover world everything is better when its galvanized? I just haven't jumped on that train yet, andIi cannot justify the extra time, work and cost. If some one told me hey drop the frame off here Ill chem dip it, galvanize and powder coat it for you and it'll be ready next week sign me up! I have had two 2 year long projects in the past, that is not what this is going to be! I see this as a face lift and a boob job! Just to make it pretty! It already has great drivetrain and foundation.
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Old January 20th, 2013, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
a note on reselling. The truck will sell for more and faster w/o the safari gard stage 3 suspension. Taking these trucks back to stock seems to be the silver bullet for a quick sale @ best price point
Ok, that makes alot sense, I plan on keeping everything. Also I am starting with a 1985 ROW, I happen to find a 97 NAS tub and frame pretty cheap. With ROW's do you see the same trend? Or is that mostly with the NAS trucks? And to be clear as well, I'm not using the SG 3 link front end.
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Old January 20th, 2013, 10:37 AM
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I can not speak to your area but here in Colorado you get the parts blasted, drop them off at the galvanizing place one day and pick them up the next... Maybe 2 days at the most.

Would cost between $300 - $500 to do every part on the entire 90.

It is your build do as you please just pointing out that people will pay thousand more for one with a galvanized chassis and it helps put their mind at ease knowing the chassis is galvy considering how bad they rust.
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Old January 20th, 2013, 10:38 AM
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I blAsted mine and the galvanizer dipped it In acid for about 45 min
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  #17  
Old January 20th, 2013, 10:45 AM
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Cool the chem dipping is what was so time consuming so if I can skip that step I could go for it then! Thanks for the advice, Ill look into this on Monday!
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  #18  
Old January 20th, 2013, 02:02 PM
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As noted above, get the frame blasted & then galv'd. The galvanizers will dip it in acid to remove any latent rust & contaminants. The galv doesn't like sticking to rust or paint as it's a chemical process & binds to the clean bare metal.
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  #19  
Old January 21st, 2013, 02:25 AM
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I wouldn't bother powder coating the chassis.... the first time you take it wheeling and snag it on a rock, it'll just rip the coating off (in that area) then water will eventually get its way under the stuff.

If you don't galvanise, better off just good coats of paint... at least you can crawl undrneath and re-apply to the bruised areas.

Good looking project though.

As for tanks, wht not have bothe side and rear NAS tank? That's what people over here (UK) do... use the rear tank as standard, then have a transfer pump to move the fuel from the side to the rear.
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Old January 21st, 2013, 07:08 AM
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On a frame you cannot skip the chemical tank. You must completely derust every nook and cranny or the galvy will not stick and you will have wasted your time. This is particularly important in regard to the inside of the frame where no other treatment than chemical stripping will touch it. I wouldn't trust the galvanizers to do a thorough job of it.
I am willing to bet that there will be plenty to keep you occupied for the month it takes to get the frame back from the stripper's. It will be patience that will pay off in the long run.
You don't have to leave the chassis in raw zinc. You can paint it very successfully with an epoxy primer followed by 2-part polyurethane topcoat.
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