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  #161  
Old July 21st, 2016, 12:31 PM
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Eric Wages
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Last night, installed the modified crossmember, bolted up the axle to the front radius arms, installed the front swaybar, replaced the tie rod end on the steering arm and installed it, and started to replace the tie rod ends on the track rod. I hit a roadblock trying to get the last tie rod loosened more than 1/4", as no amount of MAP gas, hammer, and torquing was going to get it dislodged. Have to attempt it again tonight or tomorrow.

Using all new end links, bushings, and tie rod ends.
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  #162  
Old July 21st, 2016, 10:04 PM
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I ran into the same problem. New ones are cheap. just saying...
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  #163  
Old July 21st, 2016, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post
Last night, installed the modified crossmember, bolted up the axle to the front radius arms, installed the front swaybar, replaced the tie rod end on the steering arm and installed it, and started to replace the tie rod ends on the track rod. I hit a roadblock trying to get the last tie rod loosened more than 1/4", as no amount of MAP gas, hammer, and torquing was going to get it dislodged. Have to attempt it again tonight or tomorrow. Using all new end links, bushings, and tie rod ends.
I learned a trick from an old farmer friend. The rods are thin wall and have a split at the end that will help channel penetrating oil in. Heat it up as hot as you can get it with a MAPP torch. Load it up with PB Blastr or whatever you like. Set the end of it on a hard metal surface and bang all around the rod over the whole threaded area with the biggest BFH you can manage. Rotate the rod around so you hit it on all sides. Chuck it in a vice and use a pipe wrench to turn the rod ends out.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #164  
Old July 22nd, 2016, 12:25 AM
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Based on how pitted they are, I would replace them. A series 1 in the uk was involved in a fatal wreck when one failed from corrosion. Upgraded ones are not expensive and have the additional value of being more resilient if you offroad. I had some rovertym ones that were excellent. Not sure if they still make them.
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  #165  
Old July 22nd, 2016, 08:58 AM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I learned a trick from an old farmer friend. The rods are thin wall and have a split at the end that will help channel penetrating oil in. Heat it up as hot as you can get it with a MAPP torch. Load it up with PB Blastr or whatever you like. Set the end of it on a hard metal surface and bang all around the rod over the whole threaded area with the biggest BFH you can manage. Rotate the rod around so you hit it on all sides. Chuck it in a vice and use a pipe wrench to turn the rod ends out.
I did something similar, but I'll try it again
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  #166  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 08:34 AM
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I still vote replace, but also try candle wax on the slits while hot. It will draw in and lubricate the threads.
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  #167  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 07:16 PM
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As much as I tried, I was unable to get that damned tie rod end off. Guess I'll be ordering a new tube.

In other news...

LOADED AND ROLLING CHASSIS!!!!
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  #168  
Old August 28th, 2016, 09:32 PM
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I just realized it's been a bit. Lots of work travel, vacation, and life in the last month. But here we are:

Bulkhead installed.
Fuel system installed: new rubber fuel lines!
Brake lines plumbed from the front to the rear. The front right-to-left still needs to be taken care of.
Front suspension all buttoned up: new ball joints, track rod.
Rebuilt steering arm ball joint.
Starting to lay out AC system.
Refreshing the heater box as it had a lot of surface rust.
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  #169  
Old September 11th, 2016, 12:48 AM
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Got a bunch of things done in the last few days:

* Front dash and dash pad repaired and refinished
* Stripped and refinished clutch, brake, accelerator and steering column.
* Reinstalled steering column
* Front dash and wiring installed
* Rear pinion crush sleeve replaced/retorqued. New pinion seals.
* Reinstalled rear diff w/ new cover
* Buttoned up rear prop
* Installed new clutch slave cylinder (and the clip of doom. That was a major pain!)
* Installed rear swaybar (with all new stuff)
* Installed the full exhaust (w/ my fancy DIY front mount to keep the resonator from rubbing on the frame.
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  #170  
Old September 29th, 2016, 10:32 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Starting to get things plugged in. Like most people, I'm struggling mating up some connections. Any ideas?

Of note, my vehicle started with a 19J motor and I'm using that body/chassis harness and dash harness. I know I need to add appropriate connections for the glowplug relay (advice welcome) but trying to figure out a wiring diagram that actually works?

The connections I need to plug in (or need to not plug in):

In-chassis harness:
Single pin, male connector, white/brown wire
Single pin, male connector, white/black wire
3-pin plug
male connector, green/red wire
female connector, green wire
female connector, brown/green wire

Dash harness:
Single pin, female connector, purple/blue wire
Single pin, female connector, black wire (looks like a cut eye/ground?
Single pin, female connector, white/black wire
Single pin, female connector, white/red wire
Single pin, female connector, green/white wire

The one wire plugged into the remaining major plug on the dash harness looked like it was the only plug/pin used (from the wear marks)
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  #171  
Old October 22nd, 2016, 07:25 PM
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It's been a busy month - between work travel, evacuating due to a hurricane, and life in general, it was tough to make progress. But a little bit has occurred.

Notably, all of the brake lines are run and 100%. Clutch system all done up properly, fresh gaskets on the pedal boxes, and more. Body wiring is still a TBD, but it's getting there.

Current mess is figuring out how best to address the 19J/200Tdi heater core setup with the 300tdi motor. 3 of the 4 ports are the same 5/8 size, but the last one on the heater line is 3/4". Can buy some fittings and make it work I suppose.
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  #172  
Old October 23rd, 2016, 05:08 PM
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More garage time today. Addressed the fuel lines running over the crossmember by sectioning my rubber hose replacement, bending some 5/16" line to replace it, and reinstalling. That area requires a lot of complicated bends - about 8 per section IIRC.

But it's all dressed up, less one hose clamp on the lift pump and a fresh washer on the fuel drain plug. As soon as those are checked off, I can prime the system. Woot!
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  #173  
Old October 28th, 2016, 11:24 PM
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Nearing the point of filling with fluids and trying to turn the key for the first time!

Custom power steering line was fabricated to hook up the pump to the steering box.
Cleaned up the intercooler pipes and put on some new hoses.
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  #174  
Old November 25th, 2016, 10:32 PM
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Back from travels and had some time to spend in the garage. The big news: IT RUNS (until I melted some wires!!!!

I had to jumper the fuel shutoff solenoid as I can't figure out why on the harness it's not connected to anything. (Is there supposed to be a loopback-type fitting to connect it to switched 12V?)

Coolant system tests well, but after I let things warm up, one of the wires on the alternator melted. It looks like a thin white (?) wire. Looks like I'll tear apart the harness tomorrow to suss out the damage and repair appropriately.

Anyone know what that pin is for? I'm wondering if I'm trying to draw power somewhere in the harness from this pin? (Maybe my hacked jumper?)
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  #175  
Old November 26th, 2016, 08:24 AM
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Bravo!
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Originally Posted by pendy
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  #176  
Old November 26th, 2016, 10:29 AM
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Eric,

Engine harness has to be connected to the main harness, and the double rings run to the starter along with the main to the battery. Most common oversight with the engine harness fitting is the body ground on the engine harness...

unrelated - check the washers on the top eye of the rear shocks. They should be convex side toward the bushing / flat side out.
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  #177  
Old November 26th, 2016, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
Eric,

Engine harness has to be connected to the main harness, and the double rings run to the starter along with the main to the battery. Most common oversight with the engine harness fitting is the body ground on the engine harness...

unrelated - check the washers on the top eye of the rear shocks. They should be convex side toward the bushing / flat side out.
Thanks for the tips, esp on the rear washers. This swap is interesting, as I was using the harness that came with the engine and plugged into the main harness. Comparing my original 19J harness and this unknown 300tdi harness:

The wire that melted was one of the two that ran to alternator, as pictured with the angled tab visible. Starter is wired to battery directly and via harness to the alternator, and battery is grounded to back of transfer case.

I'm actually pinning out the harnesses and comparing the one that came with this engine (300tdi something or other, but doesn't have circular starter connector plugs, so that's a bit confusing) and my original 19J harness. There are a quite a bit of differences. Here's the crux - I'm using my original main 110 harness

Thoughts?Considering the wire melted through the entire engine harness, my gut says that since I'm using my original 110 main harness, I should make the engine harness match where possible, and then add in the extra wiring for the gauges/sensors to make it all work.
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  #178  
Old November 27th, 2016, 11:45 PM
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Dusted off my 19J engine wiring harness and pined it out to find that it was, in fact, dramatically different. I hacked off the 3-pin alternator plug and soldered on some ring and spade terminals, replaced a terminal for the fuel shutoff solenoid, and slapped it in and it was good to go.

Engine idle was crazy high, but after much debugging and messing with it, a hefty dose of diesel cleaner in a tank with very little fuel got the injector pump unclogged enough that it now idles and revs properly with only a small tweak on the master fuel adjustment. Given time, that may need readjusting as the pump continues to clean itself.

Tomorrow: Power bleed the clutch and brakes, and see how the thing goes and shifts on the lift!
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  #179  
Old December 4th, 2016, 10:13 PM
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Elation has led to dismay in the last week. After getting the engine running and idling properly, the transmission started to have some very guttural sounds inside of the gearbox. So out the gearbox came and a teardown of that has begun.

There was no major smoking gun, but there was a little side-to-side shaft play on the input from the engine. Previous owner claimed the trans was rebuilt 40k ago, but I'm not so sure of that based on what I saw in the photos.

"While I'm in here..." does anyone know what a good solid clutch is for a 110? In the rally world, there are no less than 30 performance clutch companies, but I'm struggling to find anything definitive on what's an upgrade for the 300tdi/R380.

Taking the whole assembly down to the local machine shop to be cleaned up so I can inspect everything easily. At the very minimum, I need a master seal/bearing kit, shim kit, mainshaft, oil collar, a new foam pad, and some sealant. After the parts come back from cleaning, I'll get a good look at the gears and see if I need to order any replacements there.

Anyone here done the 0.77->0.73 5th gear conversion to increase top end speed and lower RPMs?
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  #180  
Old December 9th, 2016, 12:38 AM
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Got a few bits and bobs taken care of in the last few days:

- Swapped out the speedo cable for a proper hall effect sensor to match up to the
- New VDO gauge setup + madman guage
- Installed a sandwich plate for the oil filter to make the madman sensor package much easier to deal with and
- Worked out the wiring diagram that I'll need to have to hook up everything.
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