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  #121  
Old May 24th, 2016, 06:33 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Good news! My replacement frame shipped from England!

Since people were asking for pictures of the lift, I thought I'd post that. It's a Bendpak P-6B lift where I countersunk the hydraulic and air lines. Pretty slick if I do say so.

I also altered the air lock system to make it much more reliable when lowering under-loaded lift pads. This "pops up" the lock better.

Bonus: pictures of my equally bizarre 1978 Ford Escort Mk2 on the lift for scale.
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  #122  
Old June 11th, 2016, 10:57 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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I've been traveling a ton, but finally had a chance to make some progress. Today, I spent a good chunk of the day starting to rebuild the tub. It's about 75% of the way there - have some tweaking to do tomorrow, and some aluminum brazing/patching to do where I mis-drilled a hole or two. But overall, making good progress.

Having a pit lift in the garage makes this process MUCH easier!

Also, in other news, my new galvy chassis has arrived in port here. Just hashing out final payments, and then it'll be delivered to my office where I'll then need to figure out how to get it home (as my car trailer is in a different state w/ my race car).
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  #123  
Old June 12th, 2016, 10:02 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Got the floor all installed today, and did it right to last a lifetime. Used PVC tape on the floor between the ribs, Tef-Gel on all aluminum-on-steel rivets, and basically got things at a point where I can almost move this thing without worrying that I'll break something.

Of note, this is the YRM 3mm thick floor. It's REALLY beefy!
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  #124  
Old June 15th, 2016, 11:39 AM
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Eric Wages
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A bit more work on the tub in the last few days. The meat and potatoes are done, just need to complete final clean-up of the the interior, do a bit more seam sealing, and a few last rivets. Which is all good news as my frame just arrived at my warehouse!!!
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  #125  
Old June 15th, 2016, 12:03 PM
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William Ficner
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Great stuff, giving me lots of ideas for my tub.


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  #126  
Old June 16th, 2016, 10:37 PM
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Eric Wages
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Finished up the rear riser and corner pieces so all of the sheet metal of the tub is finally complete. Will need to send this off for primer and paint so that I can focus on other bits for a little while.

Also, since a few folks were asking about my frame, I thought I would do a full disclosure of the entire costs of importing solo w/o buying through someone like RN or similar. All prices in USD at time of purchase.

Richards Chassis, 110 300TDI chassis. Floor mount crossmember option. $3,834.85 (5/1 1.467 exchange rate). This includes:
* Chassis: 1720GBP
* Packing crate: 200GBP
* Shipping cost: 655GBP

Broker fees (I had to arrange myself via US vendor):
* Customs Clearance: $250
* Single Entry Bond: $50
* ISF Bond: $100
* ISF Filing Fee: $35
- $75 discount for someone else handling cargo
TOTAL: $360

Unfortunately customs flagged the container that my shipment was in, so an additional inspection fee was applied. This covered xray exam and USDA intensive exam. The entire costs were split over all contents of the container (of which my chassis was just one item). $170

All in, delivered to my warehouse at work: $4364.85
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  #127  
Old June 17th, 2016, 03:57 AM
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Julian Kotting
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Why would you go through all that hastle when you can get the better quality Marshland Chassis from Rovers north for $3,895.00
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  #128  
Old June 17th, 2016, 06:38 AM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by globallandrovers View Post
Why would you go through all that hastle when you can get the better quality Marshland Chassis from Rovers north for $3,895.00
For a variety of reasons it is debatable whether Marsland is "better", but I had businesses reasons to go my own way and I'm okay with that. 1) RN couldn't either a) call me back or b) quote me a price and a delivery date as there were ZERO galvanized 110 chassis for sale in the country and 2) I wanted some amount of frame customization.

In general, my experience has been with *all* things LR at this point, it's cheaper and easier to order everything from across the pond yourself. It doesn't take much more effort, and has immediate response. (I'm still shocked that I can order parts from the UK, and have them on my door in 48 hours later for less than I could pay a vendor in the next state over and faster than they could even give me a quote.)

I'd be curious to hear what the delivery fees are for a RN chassis are, considering I'm just 20 miles from the Port of Charleston... My frame landed here and only needed to be hauled 30 miles to my warehouse which is a far cry different from being hauled from New England down here.
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  #129  
Old June 17th, 2016, 06:53 AM
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I think someone on here just got a quote of $1,000 for shipping, I don't remember where they were located.




Sounds like you came out just fine Eric, truck is looking good.
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  #130  
Old June 17th, 2016, 07:29 AM
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Thanks for the details Eric. Helpful to see and hear how the overall experience played out.
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  #131  
Old June 17th, 2016, 08:05 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Tub work is outstanding! Wish I just riveted my supports instead of welding them.
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  #132  
Old June 17th, 2016, 08:10 AM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Tub work is outstanding! Wish I just riveted my supports instead of welding them.


I'm curious why you would choose rivets in hindsight? I'm debating which route to go right now.


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  #133  
Old June 17th, 2016, 09:03 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
I'm curious why you would choose rivets in hindsight? I'm debating which route to go right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Actually If I was to do it again I would ditch the LR/YRM supports/hats and give square tube a try. I think they would have been much easier to clamp down a fillet weld.

There is not much to the hat supports in terms of strength. They felt like noddles. I am sure the reason they went with that design is they are easy to spot weld.

If you already have the hat supports I would look at a glue and then rivets just to make sure.
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  #134  
Old June 17th, 2016, 09:05 AM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Actually If I was to do it again I would ditch the LR/YRM supports/hats and give square tube a try. I think they would have been much easier to clamp down a fillet weld.

There is not much to the hat supports in terms of strength. They felt like noddles. I am sure the reason they went with that design is they are easy to spot weld.

If you already have the hat supports I would look at a glue and then rivets just to make sure.


More food for thought. I already have the supports from yrm although probably not totally necessary as the new floor is 3/16".

Sorry for the hijack!


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  #135  
Old June 17th, 2016, 11:14 AM
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Sorry for the OT but have a question or 2 on the lift.

Anyone else use this lift or similar? I am all over the place on the type of lift I want and what I can fit.

BendPak makes a similar lift but more portable it seems. Less money I believe also. They call it the Quick Jack? Anyone thought about these?

Why would one choose the one in this thread over a QuickJack?
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  #136  
Old June 17th, 2016, 12:13 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Tub work is outstanding! Wish I just riveted my supports instead of welding them.
Depending on what materials are touching, welding is impossible. All of the horizontal ribs on the tub are steel, and the tub floor aluminum which means that you can't easily bond them together with a common welding process.

The YRM floor I have is 3mm, so it's VERY beefy. It alone acts as a rigid structure in the vehicle.

------ Follow up post added June 17th, 2016 01:16 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyersFan76 View Post
Sorry for the OT but have a question or 2 on the lift.

Anyone else use this lift or similar? I am all over the place on the type of lift I want and what I can fit.

BendPak makes a similar lift but more portable it seems. Less money I believe also. They call it the Quick Jack? Anyone thought about these?

Why would one choose the one in this thread over a QuickJack?
It all depends on what space you have, and how you want/need to configure it. In my case, I wanted/needed a perfectly smooth floor, didn't want to completely cut up all of the concrete and have to repour footings, and needed to avoid having any arms to work around due the single bay garage width and where the door is located. Simply put, not enough room.

Once you make that decision, figuring out which specific lift on where the height locks are is important. In the case of the Defender, I think I can get to the second safety lock point before I crush the roof On all of my other cars, I can raise it up to the max height.

QuickJack lacks any bolt/tie downs and is really meant for just oil/tire changes. I personally wouldn't get under anything like that.
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  #137  
Old June 17th, 2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post

It all depends on what space you have, and how you want/need to configure it. In my case, I wanted/needed a perfectly smooth floor, didn't want to completely cut up all of the concrete and have to repour footings, and needed to avoid having any arms to work around due the single bay garage width and where the door is located. Simply put, not enough room.

Once you make that decision, figuring out which specific lift on where the height locks are is important. In the case of the Defender, I think I can get to the second safety lock point before I crush the roof On all of my other cars, I can raise it up to the max height.

QuickJack lacks any bolt/tie downs and is really meant for just oil/tire changes. I personally wouldn't get under anything like that.
We have a 3 car garage with 3 individual single doors. Sucks but I am getting used to it. When I first saw yours I figured it has to better since BendPak makes both. Why would they make both unless there were significant differences. Yours seems a little more $ but I like your description. More safety is always good.

Thanks
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  #138  
Old June 17th, 2016, 01:26 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyersFan76 View Post
We have a 3 car garage with 3 individual single doors. Sucks but I am getting used to it. When I first saw yours I figured it has to better since BendPak makes both. Why would they make both unless there were significant differences. Yours seems a little more $ but I like your description. More safety is always good.

Thanks
If I had the space, I would go with a quality 2-post lift. They are far more versatile, have better access, and easier to clean around. After my OCD-levels of research, this was the best option, even over other visually-similar choices from other manufacturers.

The P6-F would have been the only thing I could have done a smidge better (flush mount) but that would have required me to a) cut up the floor entirely, b) gotten a permit to fix it and c) had to deal with my HOA. My current project is under the radar and (arguably) removable.
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  #139  
Old June 19th, 2016, 03:53 PM
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Started to upgrade to fresh bushings! I thought my kit came with everything, but it looks like I'll still need to order all of the extra "kits" to make it complete: Polybush Dynamic Orange Suspension Bush Kit - Defender 90-110 to end 1993 at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
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  #140  
Old June 26th, 2016, 11:59 PM
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Eric Wages
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Only had a few hours in the garage today, but still got a few bits checked off the list:

Finished the bushings for most of the major suspension bits
Tore apart the A-arms, pressed out the bushings, got them cleaned up for paint, and was able to get a single layer on before storms rolled in.
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