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  #61  
Old January 18th, 2016, 12:02 AM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Hey Will! I'm seriously considering calling the galvanizing joint up in Columbia and have the thing dipped.

After removing the tub tonight and going over the rear 3/4 of the chassis, it LOOKS like the rot is just restricted to that one area. I'll do more checking tomorrow, but I'm thinking I can repair this chassis and salvage it. Which is really good, since the current delay for a chassis from England is >=12 weeks!

Tonight:
  • Carpet removed. Found a few areas that were starting to blister paint, and after cleaning up, look fine (thankfully)
  • Tub removed after much cursing and grinding of seized bolts.
  • Needle scaler removed most of the waxoyl, that's why the chassis looks nasty. Of note, the last person to waxoyl the chassis did it without washing it, so it was sprayed atop sand. Which of course won't adhere well.
  • Removed the foot rear riser portion of the tub so I can install a new piece when it goes back in.
  • Discovered that I need to replace the rear fog, backup, and plate light fixtures as all are shot.

And of course, I'm starting to run out of room to store stuff. So the tub is going to live outside of the garage for a bit.
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  #62  
Old January 18th, 2016, 04:39 AM
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I would patch it and have the chassis acid dipped and galvanized. You are so close now, it would be silly not to spend the time and money.

JimC did it with a chassis at least that bad and it turned out great. Check out his NAS 110 build.
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  #63  
Old January 18th, 2016, 02:42 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Today:

Called Richards to figure out the delay for getting a chassis: 8-10 week backlog. Called Paddock Spares and Rovers North to see if they can get the magical LR412 repair piece from DDS in the UK, as that looks like the only bit that will work well. No word on if that's possible.

So I plugged along and fixed the front right outrigger. Recap - the whole frame underneath the outrigger was rotted out, so I cut that out and repaired that about a month ago. And now that it looks like I'm going to keep the chassis, it was time to fix.

Plasma cut off the rest of the outrigger support, and ground it down so it was clean and flush. (What a pain!) Then popped on the new outrigger, and spent about 30 minutes measuring to get the correct front/back distance. A tram gauge is quite helpful for this as a second datum measurement besides a tape measure. Welded it up, and added the outrigger support. Done, less paint!
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  #64  
Old January 18th, 2016, 02:50 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Talk to Zack from rovers north. I was just at Richards chassis this weekend and there was a stack of them ready to be shipped for rovers north. But you seem to be forging ahead just fine.
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  #65  
Old January 18th, 2016, 02:56 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Talk to Zack from rovers north. I was just at Richards chassis this weekend and there was a stack of them ready to be shipped for rovers north. But you seem to be forging ahead just fine.
I spoke to the guys up at Rovers North (who sells Marsland) and they confirmed a 12-week delay for a 110, 300tdi, galvy, non-TD5 chassis. Called Richards directly today, and they confirmed a 8-10 week delay for their 110, 300tdi, galvy, non-TD5 chassis. No one appears to have these on the rack.

Now, if I wanted a d90 chassis? Those seem to be dramatically easier to get.

C'est la vie.
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  #66  
Old January 18th, 2016, 03:08 PM
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Dan Kemper
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Nice work
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  #67  
Old January 18th, 2016, 05:53 PM
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Nate
1985 LHD 110 SW - 300Tdi
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Nice worked! Subscribed -- it's great to see your updates. I'll be starting my own restoration when the weather warms up, so I'm taking notes. You have some impressive skills.
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  #68  
Old January 18th, 2016, 06:13 PM
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Do you have a wet air problem with your plasma? That kerf is messy!
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  #69  
Old January 18th, 2016, 06:19 PM
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Can you post a picture of the existing rot?
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  #70  
Old January 18th, 2016, 07:10 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Went back into the garage this afternoon and started to make some metal shiny. Will need to get a few tiny attachments so I can really dig deep into the corners and crevasses.

Re: plasma cutter - it's a "home" type setup from hobart and it has an integrated compressor. And I really didn't feel like cleaning off the waxoyl before striking the arc

Some poor pictures of the rot are shown too. I've since cut it out a bit (not pictured) and poked around in there with my boroscope. It's a sleeve-type crossmember patch, and they didn't cut out the old rotten crap before sleeving it, so the rot just chewed on the good metal.
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  #71  
Old January 18th, 2016, 08:15 PM
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Gregg
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This is incredible. I am looking at an 89 110. It is a Diesel and currently in Southern CA with a UK title. What is the process and likelihood of getting it titled in CA?
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  #72  
Old January 18th, 2016, 08:16 PM
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Ted Baumer
1986 LHD 110
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That's one lucky Defender!

The type and amount of repairs you are doing would stop a lot of us in our tracks (due to lack of skills, time, money and/or courage).
Instead of driving her till she drops, this will be one to admire for the all around quality!
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  #73  
Old January 18th, 2016, 08:25 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barbarick View Post
This is incredible. I am looking at an 89 110. It is a Diesel and currently in Southern CA with a UK title. What is the process and likelihood of getting it titled in CA?
TL;DR - not gonna happen.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post603832
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  #74  
Old January 18th, 2016, 08:29 PM
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What if I register it in TX or AZ and then do a title transfer?
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  #75  
Old January 18th, 2016, 11:02 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barbarick View Post
What if I register it in TX or AZ and then do a title transfer?
Read the thread. It discussed how the vehicles can't be registered. Your only hope is if you're a military service member with a legitimate out-of-state residence.
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  #76  
Old January 19th, 2016, 08:15 AM
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Joshua
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What if I register it in TX or AZ and then do a title transfer?
Wrong thread dude.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #77  
Old January 19th, 2016, 09:19 AM
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If you cannot find the cross member with superlong extensions, you could removed the old repair piece and then fab extensions to the remaining material on the frame to mount the standard length one to if the rot does not extend too far up the chassis. A little surface rust should not hurt it if you are going to galvanize it.
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  #78  
Old January 19th, 2016, 08:32 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
If you cannot find the cross member with superlong extensions, you could removed the old repair piece and then fab extensions to the remaining material on the frame to mount the standard length one to if the rot does not extend too far up the chassis. A little surface rust should not hurt it if you are going to galvanize it.
Good news - Paddock Spares can source the magical LR412HD part, so they're getting me a quote to get it over to the US. Will be ~$500 or so. That will ultimately provide a repair that goes up right behind the rear spring perches.

On galvanizing:

Probably *not* going to galvanize the chassis for a variety of reasons. First, since it would need to be dipped to remove all of the crap, some amount of metal will be eaten away. And you can NEVER wash out all of the acid. So, I'm looking at using the Waxoyl 120-4 "fog" setup to do the interior of the chassis, and the standard Waxoyl for the outside of the chassis. That level of prep should do a fine job.
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  #79  
Old January 19th, 2016, 09:41 PM
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I think not galvanizing is a huge mistake. It will work great. I have never heard anyone say they were upset they galvanized a frame.
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  #80  
Old January 19th, 2016, 10:17 PM
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Bill Adams
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"Probably *not* going to galvanize the chassis for a variety of reasons. First, since it would need to be dipped to remove all of the crap, some amount of metal will be eaten away. And you can NEVER wash out all of the acid. So, I'm looking at using the Waxoyl 120-4 "fog" setup to do the interior of the chassis, and the standard Waxoyl for the outside of the chassis. That level of prep should do a fine job."

Only corrosion will be eaten away. What remains is clean white metal. If you are afraid that acid dipping will reveal the true Swiss cheese condition that you fear then don't cover it all with Waxoyl and hope for the best. The acid makes no difference for galvy.
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