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  #41  
Old January 3rd, 2016, 04:38 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post
Rebuilt the whole heater box today, and no, I've never done it before. The lower panel had rusted through due to crud and water sitting in the trap in the box.

So I had to fabricate a new panel, cleaned off the rust of everything else, painted, reassembled, DIY'ed gaskets, and it's ready to rock and roll as soon as the new blower motor and gaskets come in!
Nice job on the heater box! What GA steel did you use?

Are you replacing fan resistors?
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  #42  
Old January 3rd, 2016, 04:57 PM
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TheOneTen
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Nice job on the heater box! What GA steel did you use?

Are you replacing fan resistors?
Not sure offhand what the gauge was. I had a few sheets of stuff I got from the local Lowes and matched it to the T.

Fan resistors? I'm a newb on this one School me. All I've ordered is a blower motor.
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  #43  
Old January 3rd, 2016, 05:52 PM
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TheOneTen
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
The motor is a 1 speed motor. The switch sends power through 1 of 2 different resisters to slow the speed. If you have only full speed then the resistors are shot.

-Jeff
I have no idea if they're good or bad. Guess I'll bench test it when the new fan gets here.
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  #44  
Old January 3rd, 2016, 10:44 PM
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TheOneTen
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Solid day in the garage today. Removed both of the sills, tree sliders, B-pillars, and cut out the other C-pillar (due to rot). Also got one of the B-pillars all fixed up with a YRM repair kit and ready for the body shop to do their thing.

Having never rebuilt anything like a B-pillar, it requires measuring 36 times, and cutting once. And when you cut, leave enough to shape for final fitment

The YRM kit has pieces that are of different lengths that allow you to offset where you cut and weld them in. Well, instead of cutting at 90-degrees for the backside of the B-pillar, I chose to cut it at a 45-degree angle to give it some more strength.

Tomorrow, replacement sills will arrive, so we'll see where that takes us.
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  #45  
Old January 3rd, 2016, 11:14 PM
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Tbaumer
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Ted Baumer
1986 LHD 110
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Your regular posts are much appreciated.
I am learning a lot about my own 110 by seeing your work.
My favorite thread so far.
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  #46  
Old January 4th, 2016, 08:13 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Nice work and amazing progress rate. Are you working on this full time?
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  #47  
Old January 4th, 2016, 10:29 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post
Not sure offhand what the gauge was. I had a few sheets of stuff I got from the local Lowes and matched it to the T.

Fan resistors? I'm a newb on this one School me. All I've ordered is a blower motor.
Someone already gave you information on the resistor. It dumbs the voltage down to slow the motor. Some are in the heater box though IIRC as they are converting electricity to heat to reduce the wattage. It can get pretty warm.

Isn't there updated motor for the heater box? Is that what you ordered? I think some GM part fits and it is cheaper by far.

How are you sourcing YRM parts? Urban cruisers in ATL?

Keep up the good work. My 200tdi is in CA and will be comin this week or the next. Will be starting my resto/engine swap soon. Much to learn from you!
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  #48  
Old January 4th, 2016, 11:53 PM
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TheOneTen
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Someone already gave you information on the resistor. It dumbs the voltage down to slow the motor. Some are in the heater box though IIRC as they are converting electricity to heat to reduce the wattage. It can get pretty warm.

Isn't there updated motor for the heater box? Is that what you ordered? I think some GM part fits and it is cheaper by far.

How are you sourcing YRM parts? Urban cruisers in ATL?

Keep up the good work. My 200tdi is in CA and will be comin this week or the next. Will be starting my resto/engine swap soon. Much to learn from you!
I'll have to check into the heater resistors. They're still in the box. Not sure on the upgraded motor. I just ordered whatever current updated part number is that works with this old box

I generally get my parts from Dave in Urban. I know he's gotten a really bad rap, but he's trying really, really hard. For example, on 12/30, while doing manual inventory, he pulled some parts off the shelf and got them shipped out to me right away so that I could continue my project during my vacation. I mean, he's really busting ass to make it all work. If he's got the parts in stock, he's (usually) got my money for YRM bits.

I didn't even show all of the past photos of the engine swap that I already did to upgrade to the 300TDI!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Nice work and amazing progress rate. Are you working on this full time?
I wish! Well, I was working on it full time during my two weeks off over the holidays. Now that reality has set in and I'm back on my 8-5 job, it's going to get slower.


Today's work:
Rebuilt the second B-pillar. Unpacked my new sills. (Mental note - If I was doing a lot of these b-pillars, I'd make a jig to hold the original in place, with markings where the piece should go so it's easy to trim and fit. And a chop saw

Tomorrow: My wife will be dropping off the B-pillars, C-pillar, C-pillar cover and sills to get painted at the same time as my bulkhead this week.
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  #49  
Old January 5th, 2016, 10:20 PM
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TheOneTen
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Tonight: Swapped out the fuel lifter pump as the fittings were very worn and wouldn't take a new ferrule. Also started to fit the exhaust system. I knew that I was going to have to fabricate some hangars, but I wanted to get an idea of how it's all supposed to (roughly) fit. Everything is completely loose, so this obviously isn't the final placement
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  #50  
Old January 6th, 2016, 11:24 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Tonight: Welded in some weld-nuts in the chassis to support a DIY front exhaust hanger. And fabbed that too. (If you're going to do something, do it right!)

I had nothing to reference, just went off what I saw. Stuffed a towel between the exhaust and the crossmember to get some height, and measured up everything. Even threw in a little gusset on the hanger to make sure it's 110%.
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  #51  
Old January 7th, 2016, 10:51 PM
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TheOneTen
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Tonight: Installed the painted exhaust hanger for the downpipe. Looks pretty sharp if I might say so.

Also, built another exhaust hanger. This one is for the front flange of the rear tailpipe, and mounts to the OEM location with a very large washer on the back side to keep it in place. Constructed from one of the 300TDI mounts, it works out pretty well.

For the life of me, I can't figure out an easy way to mount the front hanger that's right near the transfer case. Does anyone have a picture of how the mid pipe mounts for a 300TDI underneath the seatbox?
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  #52  
Old January 8th, 2016, 07:17 AM
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Nomar
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Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post

I generally get my parts from Dave in Urban. I know he's gotten a really bad rap, but he's trying really, really hard..
I'll second that-- I ordered some YRM parts from Urban a week before Christmas--- had them on my porch 2 days later.
In my experience, Urban is doing great at the parts biz....


.
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Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
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  #53  
Old January 8th, 2016, 06:24 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Impressive job on those hangers
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  #54  
Old January 10th, 2016, 09:46 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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A few steps forward, one GIANT step back.
  • Fabbed up a better center exhaust hanger out of 1/8" steel and got it all welded in. (Note to self, avoid uphill welding at all costs.) I cut out a semi-circle on the back part of the mount so water and gunk could move through it. Theory is that it'll air out at speed.
  • Exhaust is fully mounted!
  • Removed rear cappings and cleaned them up (builder in UK didn't prep them, ugh). Did a Permatex rust treatment on them to keep them from getting worse. Will have them painted black.
  • Dropped off last C-pillar repair piece to the painter.
  • Bolted in rear propshaft.
  • While poking around on the rear propshaft, I found out that the builder (in the UK) waxoyl'd the truck without cleaning it. So it's waxoyl on top of sand, which comes right off. While poking around cleaning off that garbage, I found out that the patch that had been done years earlier for the rear crossmember has rotted through, so now I'm trying to figure out if I just abandon this frame before I weld in a new outrigger and stay, or go in deep and get yet another rear crossmember with even longer extensions. I think the only outrigger that would work would be Britpart DA4020, as the rot is just before the sway bar mounts, and most repair pieces weld in right where my section is bad. But I've read that the fitment of that part is pretty bad ;(
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  #55  
Old January 10th, 2016, 11:48 PM
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William Ficner
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You'll curse the extra work of the chassis swap, but thank yourself if you plan on keeping it long term. I vote new chassis.
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  #56  
Old January 11th, 2016, 08:35 AM
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Jordan Davis
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Hi, Nice write up, at my shop we have done many frame repairs including the rear crossmember. Sometimes the more cost effective route when doing a restoration. Id say the rear crossmember would be a good way to go so you don't loose all the mods you have already completed on it already. Cant wait to see more updates on the build
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  #57  
Old January 11th, 2016, 08:42 AM
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Eric Wages
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Thanks, Jordan. The challenge is whether I can get a decent quality crossmember + extensions that rust past the rot. The majority of them stub on to the same exact spot that this one is rotted at.

Further, quick investigation with my boroscope shows that there is (some) internal rust forming many feet past the point where it's bad. So I'm looking at all options.

At this point, I could easily strip the rest of the body off in probably 3-4 hours of work and have a rolling chassis, so much of the hard work associated with a chassis swap would be done.

I just need to find a chassis. Ideally looking for one where the wife/spouse/significant other is sick of hearing that "some day I'll swap that chassis"
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  #58  
Old January 11th, 2016, 09:23 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I vote for galvy, whether it's patch yours and dip, or some other one.
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  #59  
Old January 17th, 2016, 12:59 AM
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TheOneTen
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Eric Wages
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Tonight, started to work on removing the rear tub so I can get a good look at how bad the rear of the chassis is. Since Monday is a holiday in the US, I can call over to the UK and try to sort out what I need to order to make this right. Removing the rear floor was quite interesting as some of the bolts had so much rust that you couldn't even tell it was a bolt - it was just a large blob of rust!

Also got the heater blower installed and buttoned up. That's at least one thing going towards completion rather than more teardown.

Needless to say, some more bits need to be fabbed up - the lower part of the tub needs to go, as the galvanic corrosion has destroyed that.

After tub removal tomorrow, I'm hoping I can make a final call on whether I need to go swap in a full 1/4 chassis, or if the rust is too bad and I'm forced to go to a new chassis.
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  #60  
Old January 17th, 2016, 07:43 AM
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Will
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Really nice job so far.

If that were mine and I was as far along as you, I'd get that chassis either dipped or blasted and see what you have. If you were not quite so far along I might have another opinion, but you've almost stripped it completely down.

If it bothers you now it will bother you forever, at least that is how things work with me in my little OCD head.


I am in Columbia, if you ever get this way holler and I'll buy you a beer.
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