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  #21  
Old December 25th, 2015, 07:37 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
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Nice job with the weld!


I see that you tried to avoid straight line/weld on the lateral surface. Would you weld another longer piece of metal that run past the patched piece on the top and weld that together?
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  #22  
Old December 25th, 2015, 07:43 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Nice job with the weld!


I see that you tried to avoid straight line/weld on the lateral surface. Would you weld another longer piece of metal that run past the patched piece on the top and weld that together?
Now, I'm not a mechanical engineer, but...

I don't think it's necessary. The top surface of the box frame is either in tension or compression, and with the replaced piece in there already, it should be fine.

Any other professional engineers can by all means correct me (and I would welcome a challenge to my assumption)
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  #23  
Old December 25th, 2015, 09:33 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
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I would think the top side will be mostly in compression. Only concern is the weld failing and new weld with new material biting both the new and old material reinforcing the overall structure.

I just thought of it because how close this spot is near heavy stuff and it would be a rather quick work to ensure things are better than original with structural integrity.
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  #24  
Old December 25th, 2015, 11:37 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
I would think the top side will be mostly in compression. Only concern is the weld failing and new weld with new material biting both the new and old material reinforcing the overall structure.

I just thought of it because how close this spot is near heavy stuff and it would be a rather quick work to ensure things are better than original with structural integrity.
My worry about overlaying another piece of metal is that I'll be giving an area for moisture to collect and then further rot away between the two pieces.

The outrigger gets put directly on top and will ultimately distribute the load across both surfaces. And with the vertical section being sectioned at 45 degree angles, the ourtigger will have a good mounting area.
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  #25  
Old December 26th, 2015, 12:06 AM
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Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post
My worry about overlaying another piece of metal is that I'll be giving an area for moisture to collect and then further rot away between the two pieces.

The outrigger gets put directly on top and will ultimately distribute the load across both surfaces. And with the vertical section being sectioned at 45 degree angles, the ourtigger will have a good mounting area.
I see your point.

I would think that other areas of the frame will be rotting way before any of yours welds/patch (3mm) becomes problematic. Is the passenger side ok?

I lived in Charlotte, NC for 13 years and NE in NYC, Boston, and Philly for the past 7 years before moving out to West. Nothing basically rusts down in NC/SC in comparison.

I have thought about getting one of those weld through primers that you can spray on the panels before welding. Would that help with potential rust in the future when you are welding/shutting yourself out when patching up a boxed frame? I suppose you can always waxoyl through cavity..

What paint/primer combo are you using for the frame? They look great!

How are you liking your plasma cutter? Which brand did you get?
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  #26  
Old December 26th, 2015, 12:29 AM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
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I came across this some time ago. FYI.


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  #27  
Old December 26th, 2015, 01:10 AM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
I see your point.

I would think that other areas of the frame will be rotting way before any of yours welds/patch (3mm) becomes problematic. Is the passenger side ok?

I lived in Charlotte, NC for 13 years and NE in NYC, Boston, and Philly for the past 7 years before moving out to West. Nothing basically rusts down in NC/SC in comparison.

I have thought about getting one of those weld through primers that you can spray on the panels before welding. Would that help with potential rust in the future when you are welding/shutting yourself out when patching up a boxed frame? I suppose you can always waxoyl through cavity..

What paint/primer combo are you using for the frame? They look great!

How are you liking your plasma cutter? Which brand did you get?
The passenger side looked mostly fine from what I could see with my boroscope. One small through hole. Nothing nearly as bad as this. Some comparison photos attached of how I knew I needed to dig in.

And once I took the needler to the bad section, I could really get an idea of how bad it was. Compare that to the photos to see that they just show that it's going, not how bad it really was.

Note: The first photo is from the passenger side. I'm calling this "good". The other ones are from me panning the boroscope vertically inside of the driver's side outrigger.

I've lived all over as well, and yeah, things are pretty good down here for weather, other than things ALWAYS being wet - whether humidity or the 20 some odd inches of rain we had in just a few days.

The way I did the rust protection on this bit was to do the patch in pieces, sprayed the inside the best I could with the all-in-in-one paint/rust stop stuff I picked up. Don't remember the brand offhand. I'll check tomorrow. Last patch went on today, and for this particular spot, I can pull out the grommet on the inside of the frame here and spray inside against the back side of the patch that still remains. It should be good enough (I hope).

The plasma cutter was from Northern Tool - a Hobart 12 ci. Not the cheapest thing by any stretch, but since I fab a bunch of things around the house and for my rally use, it's a good investment. It runs on 120V, and has a built in compressor. The only annoying thing is that the positive air pressure continues after you stop the arc, and you can't restart the arc until the compressor turns off (about 5-7 seconds). So if you start and stop a bunch, the delays get annoying. A regular shop-air-fed plasma cutter wouldn't have that issue.
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  #28  
Old December 28th, 2015, 12:56 AM
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Eric Wages
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A busy couple of days, doing both Defender stuff and other chores around the house. Some updates, in no particular order:

My bulkhead appears to be a Friday afternoon build job. Panels don't fit well, and I'll need to redrill a bunch of holes and will ultimately need to use copious amounts of seam sealer.

Started to do more engineering on the bulkhead swap. There are a LOT more tiny holes/penetrations that exist in my 87 bulkhead. In particular, there are these little hexagonal holes. I'm guessing they have some sort of grommet/harness that plugs in there, but for the life of me, I can't figure out what it is, since it's not present on my 87 bulkhead.

Had to cut the TD5 wiper motor bracket off, and will install weld nuts for the motor mount. Also, due to the oval-shape holes for the wiper arm assembly, I'll have to use ground-down washers to make the holes round. Will fab those up tomorrow too.

Things are rusty, so I've been disassembling, needling/sanding, and painting/primering as I go.
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  #29  
Old December 28th, 2015, 08:45 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
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Looks like you are having fun!


What are your plans for the wiring?


Are those 2k primer and paint? Which brand seam sealer are you using?
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  #30  
Old December 28th, 2015, 09:49 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Looks like you are having fun!


What are your plans for the wiring?


Are those 2k primer and paint? Which brand seam sealer are you using?
Wiring? No formal plans. Just to clean it up and have it function. What were you thinking?

Primer is just some stuff I got from Autozone to keep it from rusting after I did the welding. The exterior/engine bay portion will get painted once the truck is all done, as the whole thing will need a respray/proper paint job since I need to repair so much rust-through damage elsewhere on the vehicle.

Seam sealer? I ordered a couple of tubes of Dynatron 550 Auto Seam Sealer Grey Caulk - 12 oz so that I could visually see where everything was coated. Again, after it's all done, it will get a thorough coating of <insert favorite coating here) to protect the whole bulkhead. Then sound proofing/heat reflection material.
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  #31  
Old December 28th, 2015, 10:06 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
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Hi Eric,


I just wanted to pick your brain and see if you had any plans for the wiring. Thanks for sharing everything thus far.


I thought about getting a 18 or xx pre-terminated fuse block for building hot rods to run lights and non-essential stuff or even possibly rewire the whole thing. At least for my beater 90.


With regards to the firewall, when I get to mine, I am contemplating spray bedlining in the engine bay side.


How long did you spend pulling the bulkhead out?
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  #32  
Old December 28th, 2015, 10:11 PM
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Eric Wages
1988 D110 300tdi/R380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Hi Eric,


I just wanted to pick your brain and see if you had any plans for the wiring. Thanks for sharing everything thus far.


I thought about getting a 18 or xx pre-terminated fuse block for building hot rods to run lights and non-essential stuff or even possibly rewire the whole thing. At least for my beater 90.


With regards to the firewall, when I get to mine, I am contemplating spray bedlining in the engine bay side.


How long did you spend pulling the bulkhead out?
Removing the bulkhead? Probably 2 solid nights of messing around with it all said and done to get the windscreen, ancillaries, and dash out. And in the end, the sawzall was the fastest way to remove the bottom portion and just yank it out

I've certainly contemplated replacing the glass fuse block. I'll probably pull the trigger on that too.
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  #33  
Old December 29th, 2015, 05:19 PM
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Eric Wages
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A bunch of small updates:
  1. Inserted riv nuts for the vent flaps.
  2. Inserted weld nuts on the bulkhead for mounting heater/brake booster brackets, as well as the fuel filter.
  3. Welded and drilled out hole in middle of firewall for the main cable harness.
  4. Converted oval-style to circle-style holes on bulkhead to take the old wiper arm setup. (which I'm very proud of).
  5. Fabbed up weld nuts/riv nuts to mount old wiper motor.
  6. Installed plastic firewall nuts w/ Right Stuff to reduce water passages.
  7. Drilled out hexagonal holes to round to receive standard 3/8" firewall plugs. (Who knows what those hexagonal holes are for anyway?!)

Big win - discovering that you can get replacement plastic firewall nuts from your local hardware store as long as they have a good supply of stuff. IIRC, a "#12 Ford" nut is *almost* the same as the LR nut. It'll fit with a little coaxing.
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  #34  
Old December 30th, 2015, 10:51 PM
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Eric Wages
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I got sick of messing around with the bulkhead on sawhorses and fabricated a bulkhead jig that keeps it at working level. Useful, since the bulkhead will be going off for paint soon.

Today's accomplishments:
  • Fabricated a jig to hold the bulkhead!
  • Replaced a riv nut that ripped out that was holding the wiper motor with a proper weld nut.
  • Cleaned up bulkhead seams inside and out with paint thinner.
  • Seam sealed the external seams. (Man, that stuff is nasty!)
  • Cut out rotted C-pillar section to replace with YRM bit.
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  #35  
Old January 1st, 2016, 09:42 PM
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Eric Wages
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Updates:

Sent away the bulkhead for painting. We're going with Keswick Green!
Disassembled the heater box and blower. What a mess. Going to have to do some rust repair in here too. The matrix, while not original based on the missing rivets on the heater box, isn't in the best (or worst) shape. Will have to figure out if I should switch to a 300TDI-type heater matrix, or stick with my downturned core and run custom lines. Advice?

Surprise: Discovered that one of the heater vent flaps has 100% coverage with some sort of foam gasket on both sides. Of course, there''s no mention of this in the LR documentation. I'll have to figure something out here as all of the gaskets just disintegrated when I touched them with my hand.
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  #36  
Old January 2nd, 2016, 09:17 PM
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Eric Wages
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Rebuilt the whole heater box today, and no, I've never done it before. The lower panel had rusted through due to crud and water sitting in the trap in the box.

So I had to fabricate a new panel, cleaned off the rust of everything else, painted, reassembled, DIY'ed gaskets, and it's ready to rock and roll as soon as the new blower motor and gaskets come in!
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  #37  
Old January 2nd, 2016, 10:00 PM
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Mack Crouch
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Looks nice. Are you replacing the blower with an oe replacement or adapting something different?
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  #38  
Old January 2nd, 2016, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post
Rebuilt the whole heater box today, and no, I've never done it before. The lower panel had rusted through due to crud and water sitting in the trap in the box.



So I had to fabricate a new panel, cleaned off the rust of everything else, painted, reassembled, DIY'ed gaskets, and it's ready to rock and roll as soon as the new blower motor and gaskets come in!

What did you end up using for gaskets on the flap? Is that dynamat?

I rebuilt and repainted mine but haven't put in replacement foam yet.

Nice choice on the Keswick that's what I'm doing on mine too.
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  #39  
Old January 2nd, 2016, 10:31 PM
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Eric Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
What did you end up using for gaskets on the flap? Is that dynamat?

I rebuilt and repainted mine but haven't put in replacement foam yet.

Nice choice on the Keswick that's what I'm doing on mine too.
Poor man's Dynamat: Shop Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing at Lowes.com

Forgive the horrible video, but it's a worthwhile watch:

The foamy gasket stuff is just some window weather stripping I had around. Should be good enough I'd think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macker
Looks nice. Are you replacing the blower with an oe replacement or adapting something different?
Just using an OE-type replacement. Nothing too fancy. If I want to change/upgrade down the road, that's easy to do with the whole assembly still in the truck.
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  #40  
Old January 2nd, 2016, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post
Poor man's Dynamat: Shop Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing at Lowes.com



Forgive the horrible video, but it's a worthwhile watch:



The foamy gasket stuff is just some window weather stripping I had around. Should be good enough I'd think?

I'd just be curious if adding that extra weight to the flap will affect the operation at all. The controls are so flimsy as it is.

Probably not an issue really, just a thought.
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