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  #41  
Old January 19th, 2016, 07:41 AM
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Will
1969 IIA
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I had to get rid of some of that crap one time..........I used a heat gun to get the big stuff and came back with acetone to get all the other crap.


Good luck, it was a mind numbing experience.
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  #42  
Old January 19th, 2016, 05:47 PM
86Defend110
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Jesse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
I had to get rid of some of that crap one time..........I used a heat gun to get the big stuff and came back with acetone to get all the other crap.


Good luck, it was a mind numbing experience.
I agree, so far this has been the worst job....
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  #43  
Old January 19th, 2016, 06:17 PM
86Defend110
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Grease and more grease

Well along with getting grease everywhere I managed to get some in the new wheel bearings and get the hubs, stub axles cleaned up and painted....what a mess! Finished 3 out of the 4...front right will have to wait until this coming weekend.

I did get new rotors, calipers, pads, tie rod ends, adjustable panhard bar, shocks, springs, bushings, bump stops, etc etc etc installed though!

Pretty sure I inhaled way too much brake cleaner, POR 15, grease, primer, spray paint, old diff lube, degreaser, WD40 this weekend! Good times....
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  #44  
Old January 19th, 2016, 06:22 PM
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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looks great...
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  #45  
Old January 19th, 2016, 06:28 PM
86Defend110
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Rear Hubs

A few pics of the rear set up, went from drums to discs using defender front hubs and disco 1 rear calipers via the conversion thread on the forum. Got everything mocked up. Think I will get some black caliper paint and spray the calipers before final installation, the finish on them looks like it would get surface rust pretty quickly.
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  #46  
Old January 25th, 2016, 06:52 PM
86Defend110
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Drivetrain!

Finally got to the point where I was ready to install the drivetrain. I measured the frame height before and after install and the drivetrain dropped the front end 1.5".

Also got the new gas tank mounted and the front diff skid plate painted and mounted.
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  #47  
Old February 2nd, 2016, 01:32 PM
86Defend110
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Another weekend

Made a bit more progress this weekend.

Installed new cathedral port intake gaskets and mounted the intake.

Cleaned up, painted and installed new parts in the handbrake drum.

Installed new fuel tank sender.

Installed more bushings...(finally done with bushings)!

Now onto rust repair in rear door, bulkhead, sills etc...(I have been procrastinating working on these but it is time)
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  #48  
Old February 9th, 2016, 03:54 PM
86Defend110
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Jesse
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More tinkering

This weekend I installed all new U-joints, high pressure in tank fuel pump, ARB breather lines to the front and rear diffs and the T-case (love the pic on the box), and fitted the front skid plate prior to painting. Driving to Cali this Saturday to pick up a used bulkhead that is in much better shape than mine. This should save me some serious time in the long run....
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  #49  
Old February 16th, 2016, 06:01 PM
86Defend110
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Slow but Steady......

Another weekend down but managed to get a few things accomplished...

Got the Hooker headers coated and installed with new gaskets.

Got the Lokar auto shifter and linkage installed.

Transfer case linkage installed.

Ran some of the fuel lines...
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  #50  
Old February 16th, 2016, 06:28 PM
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Chris
1995 RRC
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Damn.....that looks GOOD!!
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  #51  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:00 PM
86Defend110
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Jesse
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Wiring

Got my wiring harness back from a local guy who builds stand alone harnesses from your factory harness. It looks great, we will see how everything works in a couple weeks hopefully!
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  #52  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:02 PM
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Ed
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that all looks so good...
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  #53  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:03 PM
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Andy
1999 D2, 1985 D90 truggy & 1951 S1
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Nice, I'm working on a complete custom loom for my D100.... might as well renew & include all the new bits at the same time
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  #54  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:07 PM
86Defend110
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Jesse
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Misc....

Worked on mocking up the radiator, got the power steering box bolted on, Visited a junkyard and spent some time under a Disco 1 to remove the transfer case brackets that mount to the frame. Got them home, cleaned them up, hit them with a coat of paint and installed them.
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  #55  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:08 PM
86Defend110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Nice, I'm working on a complete custom loom for my D100.... might as well renew & include all the new bits at the same time
Very nice man, I wish I knew more about wiring, coulda saved some $$$ but I don't feel comfortable messing with it yet.
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  #56  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:44 PM
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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Overall it looks great. Though, personally I cannot stand the sight of those red/yellow/blue plastic crimp connectors. IMO they are worthless on vehicular applications outside of a stereo install. Especially if they are anywhere that salt and/or moisture might be a factor. I usually cut the cheezy plastic insulator off and shrink wrap them. After crimping and soldering. Just my $.02
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #57  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 02:02 PM
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John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
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The proper method is to use uninsulated connectors with a correct racheting crimp tool and then dual layer heat shrink. You should not solder. Nobody should ever use insulated crimp connectors other than for a field repair.
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  #58  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 02:15 PM
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Russell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The proper method is to use uninsulated connectors with a correct racheting crimp tool and then dual layer heat shrink. You should not solder. Nobody should ever use insulated crimp connectors other than for a field repair.
I'm not following. What is better than Anchor marine grade insulated (heat shrink and glue) crimp connectors with their corresponding crimper?
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  #59  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 02:20 PM
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John B.
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Okay. Some speciality insulated terminals are probably okay, but I prefer to see that the crimp is correct before insulating. the crimp needs to grab the strands correctly to ensure a long lasting and solid connection.

I'm talking about the standard nylon insulated terminal you get everywhere that we can see in the loom pictures above. They do not form a proper connector to the wire.
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  #60  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 10:10 PM
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Andy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You should not solder.
Care to enlighten us ?

But in a new thread so this one doesn't go off track

Oh... and it's pronounced sol'der, not sod'er.....
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