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  #21  
Old June 15th, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Looking good Adam. Did you find the goof-off was stripping the paint too? I was using it to clean glue residue off the rear load mat area, and found it was softening up the paint to the point where a plastic scraper was scraping it off! This was some HD stuff I think - had run out of whatever vintage I had and got a new bottle from Home Depot.
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  #22  
Old June 15th, 2010, 11:32 PM
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Looking good Adam. Did you find the goof-off was stripping the paint too? I was using it to clean glue residue off the rear load mat area, and found it was softening up the paint to the point where a plastic scraper was scraping it off! This was some HD stuff I think - had run out of whatever vintage I had and got a new bottle from Home Depot.
It was stripping the paint a bit. I didn't use a scraper though. I used scotch bright pads. The black spots on the tunnel closest to bulkhead are where the paint was rubbing off. The center tunnel is showing some aluminum too. It sealed the deal for truck bed coating. I'll probably go through another few cans of the stuff for the bulk head.



Today I removed the belhousing extention that is on the back of the engine (part that houses the rear main seal). I took out the rear main and started to clean the part but ran out of brake cleaner. I received the remnants of parts that I needed for the clutch install, a new head gasket, and the gasket that goes between the part I took off today and the engine.

I really find myself going deeper and deeper on this thing. Oh well. I'm already learning a lot and just feel more comfortable knowing it will have a solid drivetrain.
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  #23  
Old June 27th, 2010, 09:37 PM
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Today I got the transmission cleaned up and oil seals replaced. I also got the new throw out bearing, clutch fork, and a few other parts. Next is to clean up the back of the engine and reinstall the trans. Slowly but surely.
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  #24  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 09:03 PM
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Well, even though I had planned on getting this done a lot earlier, I am now just starting on working on it again. It was a busy summer so far with family and a new girlfriend. I have made a little more progress. I have the flywheel housing, new rear main seal, flywheel and clutch installed now. I have all the inside front ready but one of the floor plates for hurculiner. It was a huge pain but after about 3 pints of goof off and a lot of use of a wire brush on the end of a drill, the original insulation has been removed. In preperation for the timing belt change I have started making a spanner for the fan clutch. I have removed the old fan and clutch and fan shroud. I will post pics in the next couple of days.
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  #25  
Old August 24th, 2010, 03:56 AM
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32mm spanner with a bend in it just after the jaws does the trick, heat the spanner first or it'll break been there, done that.
Great looking truck. seems in good condition for a 25 year old truck, mine's had a new chassis
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  #26  
Old September 20th, 2010, 09:56 PM
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Well, I have lots of pictures of progress but have misplaced my camera cable.

I have cleaned up all of the cab, floor panels, tranny/trans tunnels and seat box. They all have 2 thick coats of hurculiner. The dewalt drill with a wire brush attachment ended up being very usefull. I used a lot of goof off too. The flywheel housing is cleaned up and reinstalled with a new rear main seal. The flywheel has been resurfaced/installed. The clutch and new clutch slave cylinder have been installed. New temporary fuel lines (soft lines run from tank to engine compartment). I am in the process of aquiring new SS lines and clips. I'll update on pics when I find the camera cable. Currently working on cleaning up the transfercase and replacing seals.
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  #27  
Old September 21st, 2010, 02:51 PM
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Good! Can't wait to see pictures.
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  #28  
Old September 28th, 2010, 07:54 PM
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Exclamation Premature drive

Well, it's all put back together for now. It wasn't started for about 5 months and it started first crank. There is a lot of white smoke with a hint of blue though. I think the return lines on the injectors are leaking so I will be replacing those. I did a few short test drives and everything other than the smoke was good so I decided to drive it to work today which is about 30 miles. When I arrived the brakes were very soft and the hubs were very hot to the touch. I think the front calipers might be sticking, there was a little smoke coming from the drivers side. I have new wheel bearings, caliper rebuild kits, pads and rotors to install. I just hope it makes it home. I've been monitoring the oil and coolant levels which are remaining steady so far.

Do you guys think that there could be damage due to the engine sitting undisturbed for so long causing the smoke? Any sugguestions for a quick fix on a stuck caliper if it is stuck on the way home? I work a night crew and don't get off until 1:30 in the morning so my resources might be a little slim. I did bring my tools with me though.

And I know a thread is useless without pics so I'm going to buy a new cable for my camera and post soon.
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  #29  
Old September 28th, 2010, 09:16 PM
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how old is that fuel ? have you changed your fuel filter yet ?
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  #30  
Old September 29th, 2010, 12:01 AM
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the fuel is about 5 months old as well. I was planning on burning through this tank then changing the filter.
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  #31  
Old September 29th, 2010, 02:27 AM
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Change the filter, use the "old" fuel then fill up and put in a new filter.
Fill the new filter with atf and then install it, it does a remarkable job of cleaning injectors.
It might just be sticky injectors making the smoke. A good run with some injector cleaner in the fuel at double strength will probably clear the smoke, as will the ATF in the filter.
I ran up my 90 after it sitting in the garage for 2 1/2 years, it too started first time
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  #32  
Old September 29th, 2010, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
Change the filter, use the "old" fuel then fill up and put in a new filter.
Fill the new filter with atf and then install it, it does a remarkable job of cleaning injectors.
It might just be sticky injectors making the smoke. A good run with some injector cleaner in the fuel at double strength will probably clear the smoke, as will the ATF in the filter.
I ran up my 90 after it sitting in the garage for 2 1/2 years, it too started first time
what he said exactly
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  #33  
Old September 29th, 2010, 02:27 PM
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Well, I made it home fine. I seems that it was a sticky caliper and it didn't stick on the way home. Thanks mikeslandrover. I will give it a shot.

And finally here are some pics.

The beginning
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New clutch plate vs. old. It was unknown how old it was. Looks fairly new however.
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Transfer/trans tunnels cleaned up
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Old seal between flywheel housing and block
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All cleaned up with new seals, t-bearing, and clutch fork
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Hurculiner
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  #34  
Old September 29th, 2010, 02:40 PM
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More hurculiner
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Trans cleaned up with a fresh coat of paint.
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Installed with resurfaced flywheel, new clutch, and new slave cylinder
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Tcase installed and new breather hose
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Floor back in with all new hardware
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Seats and mats back in
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  #35  
Old September 29th, 2010, 02:51 PM
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Starting on the front end
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Old timing belt
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Cleaned and removed
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Putting back together with new water pump
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Old radiator was leaking and the fins were falling out due to rust. Installed a new one from RoversNorth
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Back together
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I also replaced the front/rear dif fluids and installed a new yellow top optima.
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  #36  
Old September 29th, 2010, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
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Yes, I got if from Rovers Out East. It was close, blue is my favorite color, I like the 3 doors, and it seemed like a good deal. I picked it up for 10k. I knew it had some things that would require attention. Hopefully with another 5k I can have a good reliable (as much as rovers are) vehicle. I may have jumped on it but I'm happy with the purchase.
I saw yours in person when I went down there to look at then pick up my 90 I got from Aaron as well.

Looks like the progress is coming along, congrats
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  #37  
Old October 4th, 2010, 07:02 PM
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I have now replaced the return lines between injectors and replaced the fuel filter (installed it filled with ATF). The smoking has decreased a little but is still there. It does idle rough from after all the work too. I have done some searching and found a few possibilities. Timing belt install not done properly, fuel, or injectors.

-I couldn't find a whole lot on the timing belt incorrect install so if I did mess it up by a tooth or two, could that be causing my issue?

-Would it be bad for the motor/components to run as is through the rest of the fuel (half tank) to see if it is some bad fuel even with the possibility of the timing being off? It rather unfortunate to think I have to pull the water pump and cover off again to check it but I want to make it right.

During the timing belt install it didn't seem that there was any slack between the crank/cam, cam/injector pump. Only between the injector pump and crank as per manual. I could have been a tooth off I suppose.

-Is there any special tricks to take all slack out of the belt other than using a tool under the crank to hold the belt on the teeth?
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  #38  
Old October 7th, 2010, 07:19 PM
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Took it apart again today to verify the timing belt install. The woodruff/crank, cam/point/arrow were in place and I was able to install a drill bit into the injector pump hole to the housing. During reinstallation, I made sure to clean out the intercooler tubes (intercooler was cleaned on first go) and cleaned out the air filter housing. I didn't get a chance to start it up before work because I didn't have more coolant.

Hopefully after the old fuel is spent it won't be smoking as much. I'm starting the install of new wheel bearings, rotors, calipers and pads tomorrow.
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  #39  
Old October 10th, 2010, 10:19 PM
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Started the brakes and hubs today. I got the left sid mostly done.

The spectator
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Old disc vs new
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driving the old race out
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Cleaned hub
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Prep'd for paint
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Painted with inner bearing and seal
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Cleaned up
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Install
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Attached Thumbnails
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  #40  
Old October 17th, 2010, 09:20 PM
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So I have the passenger side complete. I had to order another caliper bolt and some new pad retaining pins. The new calipers are slightly different than my old. I ordered by part number from the manual and recieved a few mix matched stuff. My old calipers used a large cotter pin that held some metal clips on. What I recieved was the calipers and pads that take a pin through holes in the pads, cotter pins to hold the pins in and 4 springs.

I assumed that the springs go in between the pads on the pin as so:
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I searched for a picture of installation but could not find anything. Is this correct? Am I missing anything?


Heres some more pictures of it complete:
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