63 Series IIA 109 PU Hybrid Electric - Page 9 - Defender Source
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  #161  
Old August 1st, 2013, 04:47 PM
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http://www.autoblog.com//2013/08/01/...ssive-results/

"Impressive results" equals a 50 mile range, and a 10 hour recharge time?

Charles, you have LR beat, easy.
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  #162  
Old August 1st, 2013, 05:14 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Sure other than small details like they have a working product and I don't

Range is all about batteries (pronounced "money"). I could have Tesla range if I wanted to triple the money I'm putting into this.
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  #163  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 11:56 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I found it really doesn't take many changes to get the 109 body to fit on a 110 frame. The bulkhead, seatbox and front of the tub all bolt up to stock locations, and I assume the rear crossmember would too (but in my case it was cut off so I can't be sure). But I had to make the following changes

1. The breakfast needed new mounts and the old ones removed because they interfered with the front valence panel. And I had to drill holes for the rivnuts that the front valence will bolt to.

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Now at this point you could be done! The wheelbase is a bit off, but here is what it looks like sitting at extended bump stop height:

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This would probably be acceptable, but I'm putting enough effort into this that I might as well shorten the wheelbase. Since my rear crossmember was already cut off it dodn't cause any more work there, and other than a few tub support brackets needing extending, all it took was removing about 1.25" of the frame between the suspension ears and tub outriggers.

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Here is what it looks like now:

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  #164  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 12:10 PM
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Nice cut and shut job, Charles!
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  #165  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 12:58 PM
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I like the way you did the breakfast support. Looks like Mr Rover would have done it like that. I opted for a bolt-on support subframe as it needs to hold the intercooler too and needed to be a lot further back. It's riv-nutted to the front cross member.
I also trimmed the bottom edge of the wing where it fouls the bolt tube thing on top of the dumbiron. Prolly didn't really have to but the wing fits better and is covered/hidden by the apron panel.
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  #166  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 12:59 PM
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You are going to gusset that joint, right?

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This would probably be acceptable, but I'm putting enough effort into this that I might as well shorten the wheelbase. Since my rear crossmember was already cut off it dodn't cause any more work there, and other than a few tub support brackets needing extending, all it took was removing about 1.25" of the frame between the suspension ears and tub outriggers.
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  #167  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 03:40 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I'm thinking about it, but I don't think it's really needed. The weld should be stronger than what's there and it's not taking any stress from the suspension. But it will be easy enough to put some plate on the inside of the frame. I ran out of gas so haven't finished welding it yet (and don't plan to until I have the frame stripped down again).
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  #168  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 04:52 PM
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I think I'd have put some internal plating in there.
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  #169  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 06:19 PM
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Its a mall crawler. Internal plating was going to be plan A, but when I went and did the cut I decided it wasn't worth the effort. I might do a plate on the top and inside when doing my final welding but still skeptical abut the need. If you recall I built my trailer out of a D90 frame and although it doesn't get heavy loads I did a bunch of welds just like this and they have held up just fine. I am confident in the welds and they should be as strong (if not stronger) than the original piece.
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  #170  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 06:22 PM
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I don't want to sound too critical but I have always heard that with a frame splice you're supposed to do a "zee" or an "arrow" notch.
Never a vertical.
While the weld may not break, the parent metal surrounding the weld will crack as the frame flexes.

Just worried...
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  #171  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 07:57 PM
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Top, bottom 3in strap, diamond shaped plates on the sides. why not? It is $5 worth of steel and not much time. belt and suspenders especially with heavy batteries. The diamonds on the side would be my priority.

Someone is going to get that frame and be like WTF about the wheelbase.

Also 1.25? Where did the .25 come from? Rover margin of error? A 110 is 110in and a 109 is 109in
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  #172  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 07:43 AM
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I don't mind the criticism at all, and in fact I appreciate it. The consensus is clear - i'll plate it

But diamond plate Ron? No way in hell!

You will like the 1.25". That's the width of my ruler This isn't rocket science but by my eye i could have taken 1.5 to 1.75 to get it to look totally centered, but my ruler was 1.25" and I could make nice parallel lines with it, and it was enough. If you can tell a 1/4" difference on this then you are looking too hard .
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  #173  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 07:52 AM
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Remember that as the truck is lifted the wheelbase will decrease.
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  #174  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 07:54 AM
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I think he means diamond shaped plates. That is, squares, with the points at the top and sides. This will give you a longer weld than with just scabbed on plate.
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  #175  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 07:57 AM
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IC. Yea you'll see I tried to get the longest weld in the cut too, but due to the bracketry the angle was limited. I was thinking that if I plated it, I'd be better off boxing it in, so you'd have weld along the corners and the resulting tube/box around the frame would be stringer than this diamond shape. I'll think about it.
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  #176  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 08:24 AM
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IC. Yea you'll see I tried to get the longest weld in the cut too, but due to the bracketry the angle was limited. I was thinking that if I plated it, I'd be better off boxing it in, so you'd have weld along the corners and the resulting tube/box around the frame would be stringer than this diamond shape. I'll think about it.
I spent too long reading pirate4x4. I mean a diamond shaped plate. Something about stress risers.
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  #177  
Old November 6th, 2013, 09:17 PM
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Thanks for sending me the link. Subscribed!
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  #178  
Old December 15th, 2013, 07:16 PM
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Rear cross member sorted

I bought a galvanized rear cross member from Ron when I gave me the frame since it already had the old one cut off and prepped for it. But besides it being a shame to weld on a galvanized piece when the whole thing was going to get galvanized anyway (and hassle to clean off the galvy for welding), I wanted a 109 rear cross member so I sold the galvy one and got a 109 crossmember.

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I also wanted to maximize the space available back there for a battery box. My goal is to have only two battery boxes with both having easy access for maintenance otherwise there are lots of places for them. I did some testing for weight distribution and found I could do this and maintain a close to 50-50 ratio front to rear in doing so. I needed more room than just between the frame rails to meet this goal though so I widened the frame rails about 6" total and designed a NAS-fuel-cradle-like hangers for the box (which will have a skid plate below it to support it). I live in a pretty white collar area and was having trouble finding a place that could CNC cut and bend these up for me. I saw Brian (Brewie212) selling CNC cut cage parts so figured it was worth a shot asking him if he could help. And he sure could! I needed to be patient to keep the budget on track so I was, and it paid off. So a bit thanks to Brian for helping me with these.

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Yes I could have solved this many ways, but this looks like it belongs there and didn't end up costing me more than the galvy cross member anyway. I need to do finish welding once I have the body off again and can flip the frame around to weld comfortably, but now I can move on to making the battery boxes.

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  #179  
Old December 15th, 2013, 08:51 PM
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Looks good my man, happy to help!! Looking forward to getting to ride in that bad boy.
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  #180  
Old January 5th, 2014, 04:56 PM
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Got some shop time this weekend and took care of my door frames.

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Not 100% sure I'll go with this, but using the original steering box seems like a workable solution for maintaining the stock steering column position and supporting the steering shaft (I found a flange mounted roller bearing that should bolt up to the existing stud positions shown in the last picture).

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