63 Series IIA 109 PU Hybrid Electric - Page 8 - Defender Source
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  #141  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:21 AM
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Skinny Pete
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Defender tunnel will give you the outline to trace on the seatbox to clear the gearbox, that's about it.

Looks like you have the transfer box sitting pretty level whereas in a stock config it would be tilted back a little. That would lower the rear output some.

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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Bill, I think I'll put together a propshaft, hook it up and do some low rider tests to see the situation. And I concur that modifying the crossmember is an option for sure. But lowering everything a bit might help with clearance in general. But would like to keep stock angles if I can (not sure if 1" would really matter though).

I like your thinking on the tunnel, and carbon fiber might be fun.

I already bought a drum, but will need to figure out the linkage to hopefully keep the series handle, otherwise defender I suppose. I need to fab something up for the diff lever as well.

Dave, I wasn't sure what differences there were in the seatbox other than the obvious tunnel differences. I don't think a defender tunnel would work without mods either so I don't think there is any advantage to switching. I will do my bulkhead work and put that in place before doing any mods though.
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  #142  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:28 AM
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Aah, I assumed level. I guess I'll check out the angle on the D90 to compare (although it's never home when I want to look at it). That may be the difference. Although raising the front of the motor worsens the tunnel clearance issues

The gearbox clears the seatbox right now although I did need to remove the disco linkage on the tcase to clear. But I'll see if Kang's tunnel is still out, otherwise I suspect to clear the motor I'm going to have to go wider and higher than the defender tunnel anyway.
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  #143  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:39 AM
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looks great, charles!
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  #144  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:46 AM
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Yah the resin shouldn't stick to the packing tape after it has set up, so that's why I threw out the polyvinyl alcohol mold release suggestion.
I'm sorta thinking what Dr B is thinking, that your whole mess there needs to go forward some and angle downward 2-5 degrees so that the HIGH-LOW-LOCK lever will not foul the seat box.
I don't, however, believe that you will find any LR tunnel covers that will be of much use with that motor.

PS If you can find a way to make it all fit and NOT cut the seatbox, that would be the best. Those seat boxes look simple but there's a lot going on there with some formed parts that are spot welded in.
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  #145  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:52 AM
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I will look again later but my gut says the larger tunnel will allow more room for the high/low lever as well.

But my main thinking was to keep the stock position so the geometry is stock and stock 110 driveshafts can be used etc. I feel like the more I keep stock the better in terms of the drivetrain.

Ed, is your tunnel cover installed yet?
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  #146  
Old June 5th, 2013, 10:37 AM
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Not yet, you need to borrow it?
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  #147  
Old June 5th, 2013, 11:20 AM
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Yes please Ed. It would be good for comparison purposes at the very least.

Jeff it's water cooled so I think just "warm". But will look it up
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  #148  
Old June 5th, 2013, 12:01 PM
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I think I can drop it off tonight after curfew call in my garage (9:00pm). Is that ok with you?
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  #149  
Old June 5th, 2013, 05:47 PM
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I can try to figure out the angle of the t-case. Based on the way the mounts are slotted and known rover tolerance issue, I have to imagine that it is not going to be the same to within a degree on all trucks.
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  #150  
Old June 5th, 2013, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
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I think I can drop it off tonight after curfew call in my garage (9:00pm). Is that ok with you?
Works for me, or I can come get if you'd like (I'd like to see your progress)

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I can try to figure out the angle of the t-case. Based on the way the mounts are slotted and known rover tolerance issue, I have to imagine that it is not going to be the same to within a degree on all trucks.
Compare it to the top of the frame rail please. I'll take a look at my D90, although like you say it likely differs per truck. It would be interesting to see either way. Thanks!
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  #151  
Old June 5th, 2013, 06:46 PM
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Really not sure. It's dependent on load and s I understand it, it needs liquid cooling for a reason But I suspect "normal" sedate driving will not get the coolant very hot.

Are you thinking in terms of providing a heater in the winter? I'd argue that this would suck in the summer! Better to have a ceramic one instead.
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  #152  
Old June 10th, 2013, 10:25 AM
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I need the garage space and the old frame has outlived it's usefulness for comparison purposes, so I chopped it up and will be taking the remains to the recyclers today.

I got to borrow a neat toy. The engine/transmission/transfer case weighs 767 lbs! The frame with the drivetrain (sans driveshafts), about a half gallon of gas, half gallon of coolant weighs 2321 lbs - a little more than I expected.
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I'm keeping these too for now. I can stack the boxes but didn't want to put all the weight onto one dolly before I decide where to put them.
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The remains
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  #153  
Old June 10th, 2013, 10:46 AM
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Looks like you coulda kicked it to pieces just as easy as sawzalling it.
I learned first hand how much a chassis weighs on Memorial Day weekend. I had the truck jacked up on the LF corner to level it out while taking some measurements. I went to lower the hydraulic jack and failed to realize that my foot was under the tire. It's pretty heavy, for sure.
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  #154  
Old June 10th, 2013, 02:46 PM
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I bet most of the engine& transmission weight is the engine.
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  #155  
Old June 11th, 2013, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
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Looks like you coulda kicked it to pieces just as easy as sawzalling it.
You are right. I had jacked it up under the center crossmember while draining the coolant to try encourage it to drain completely and not long after it's back broke and the rear sagged back to the ground!
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  #156  
Old June 11th, 2013, 08:40 AM
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Did it have a hand throttle by any chance? I need a bushing for mine.
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  #157  
Old June 11th, 2013, 08:42 AM
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Nope, sorry
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  #158  
Old June 11th, 2013, 08:52 AM
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Last year I was helping a friend with some chassis repairs for his Series 1. He had two chassis, one solid but all the crossmembers had been moved, the other one with some rust that needed patching. I started tearing into the rusty one since it seemed easier. I soon realized it was beyond saving. We carried it out of the shop and carried the solid one in. We were all amazed how much heavier it was.

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You are right. I had jacked it up under the center crossmember while draining the coolant to try encourage it to drain completely and not long after it's back broke and the rear sagged back to the ground!
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  #159  
Old June 13th, 2013, 06:30 PM
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Finally getting around to do my bulkhead work so figured I had better check it's fitment first. I am happy to report the motor will not interfere with the bulkhead other than modifying the piece the center tunnel fits to (which I already galvanized ). I was also pleasantly surprised to see the series bulkhead supports bolt right in. For some reason I expected to have to figure out bolt hole locations and drill them but 2 exist on each side already

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Ed, yes I still want to see how a defender tunnel fits.
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  #160  
Old June 27th, 2013, 08:05 PM
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low rider

Not much of an update, but while testing drivetrain clearance with the truck sitting on it's bump stops I got side-tracked testing fitment of the front clip and frame mods needed and took this picture. The rear tub is not bolted down and the door gaps are an inch wider than they should be right now so the rear wheels will be a bit further back than they show, but I can live with it.

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