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  #121  
Old February 8th, 2013, 10:01 AM
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That parts truck has had the ultimate RURR treatment!
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  #122  
Old February 8th, 2013, 11:00 AM
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It takes a village. LOL
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  #123  
Old February 24th, 2013, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
True! Mike might know but then again the truck has had quite a few owners and who knows what is original
It's an '84. All straight up and above board. Later engine. Originally a press release vehicle so quite early. Truck cab originally but I changed it to a van top. Lower bodywork standard.

I've just discovered this thread apologies for the late response to Ed's comment.
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #124  
Old February 24th, 2013, 07:43 PM
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Ahh thanks mike, good to know!
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  #125  
Old February 25th, 2013, 03:02 PM
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No probs, ALL the brown body pannels except the rear door were original, rear axle changed for a discovery 1, front axle standard transmission all replaced due to tiredness ( I broke it)
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  #126  
Old March 5th, 2013, 07:49 PM
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http://pistonheads.co.uk/news/default.asp?storyId=27211
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  #127  
Old March 5th, 2013, 07:53 PM
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Yeah there is a thread about it. I'd love to know the final ratio of it's driveline.

It sure makes me wonder if there are any land rover employees lurking on the forums...
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  #128  
Old March 5th, 2013, 08:35 PM
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Maybe you've seen this. In case you haven't. It's creepy how quiet it is.


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"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
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  #129  
Old March 5th, 2013, 08:42 PM
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I had not, thanks!
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  #130  
Old March 5th, 2013, 11:23 PM
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Great vid! Watching that really makes me feel like electric is the future. Imagine just how much closer you can feel to nature with the drivetrain so quiet? You could hear the mud splashing in the video...
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  #131  
Old May 12th, 2013, 11:37 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Holy cow this thread needs an update! I do have some updates to report although I wish I had more (if just so I could raz Kang without feeling guilty).

I got lucky and scored a 110 frame for the build (thanks Ron and Doug). This is better because it should have most of the body mounts already and the frame in general is a better match. Details here:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=44796

I have the RRC suspension partially under it, and once I get a few parts I'll bolt it up to the point that I have accurate axles positioning and do some test fitting of the tub. Once I am confident this will be a better path (including wheel position int he axles) I'll get rid of both the RRC frame and the old series frame and free up some space!

Other than that, I have been plodding away at getting some of the EV side sorted. I have made the decision on the motor and it should arrive Wednesday. It's a Siemens 1PV5135 4WS14 AC Induction Motor requiring a 320v battery pack (100 LiFePO4 batteries) so other than choosing a brand and AH, that decision is made too. Due to cost, I am pretty sure they will be 100AH.

I have also made a prototype of the adapter to connect the motor to the transfer case. While getting the frame from Ron I noticed a manual transmission has a wider tail piece than the ZF, and at 5.75" it was about the right length to put the motor in a position to clear the forward output housing of the LT230. Rob Dassler hooked me up with this puppy.

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So I scanned the face on a desktop flatbed scanner and traced around the holes to produce a CAD drawing of the face. I got some help from my local maker space to cut this design into some wood for a test

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Next, the plan was to put the R380 tail piece onto the template positioned by the dowel pins and then use the CNC mill to mark the center of the hole in the back of the housing, but as it turns out the housing was too tall to fit under the mill head so we had to scrap that idea.

Plan B was an earlier idea I had, which was to use a plumb bob. We cut a centering disk, drilled a hole in the center and hung a plumb bob through it with a drop of ink on the tip and marked the center on the wood that way, then used the mill head to get the x,y of that dot

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Then we added the motor holes to the design and cut out two pieces to give the planned thickness of the 1.5" adapter plate (to be eventually made in aluminium.

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In place, from both sides

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Once I get the motor I'll verify the clocking of the motor is good so that it is horizontal on top and clears the from driveshaft, and once I get a coupler made I can verify everything is perfectly centered before making the final adapter plate in aluminium.

Oh, and I built some cabinets in the new garage to try free up some space in there so I can do "clean" assembly in there and still keep 2 cars in it as well. I need to get rid of the extra frames and free up some room so I can get cracking on the frame mods.

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  #132  
Old May 20th, 2013, 11:53 AM
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Those cabinets look great painted!

Also quite interested in what you end up doing with those Siemens motors. Did you figure out what to do for the controller?
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  #133  
Old May 21st, 2013, 10:42 PM
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Yes there are a group of guys building an open source controller and the effort is well under way. It will support multiple hardware platforms but the reference build is an arduino due with a dual canbus shield one of them is making, and it can already do the basics like control the motor based on throttle input. I am guessing they will beat me to the punch with a working solution but if not, I'll get stuck in and help when the time comes.

So last week the motor arrived and I test fitted it

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This is a crappy picture but it shows the assembly

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These show that the adapter positions the motor well, but itself gets in the way. As it stands the cut I had to make comes too close to the motor mount hole.

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But Rob Dassler has sent me a care package with a center piece that should push the motor away just far enough to reduce the severity of the cut and possibly even allow me to reduce the thickness of the adapter. But worst case if not, I'll add an adapter to the other side of the R380 housing to push it out even further. And there is another nice side effect - this centering piece has the hole in it so I should be able to scan this and get the center hole position without using the plumb bob which in theory should be more accurate (I'll compare the two just for fun).

But wait, there's more! Rob threw in a piece of R380 output shaft which I am hoping to be able to use for the coupler. If there is enough material I can have the motor splines machined into the cut end, but if not, then I believe there is enough to cut male splines onto that cut end and use a female-female coupler I can buy that matches the motor splines. Holding thumbs.

So a big thanks once again to Rob!
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  #134  
Old May 28th, 2013, 10:03 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks to Rob's generosity I have made version two of my adapter. We sped up the speed of the mill because it was taking a long time to mill down the outer section and this somehow caused it to jump or something and the large motor holes didn't come out right (you can see one being too close to the edge).

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So we cut several pieces out of 1/4 mdf using the laser cutter and I glued them together. This worked perfectly so validated the CAD drawing is good. I also included pictures of the extra goodies Rob sent.

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These pictures suck, but show it all bolted up! I'll have to take some in the daylight

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I still want to cut at least one more out of a solid piece of wood as a final test once I have a coupler (or mockup of a coupler) before doing the final one in aluminum, but this mockup will allow me to test fit the assembly in the truck and make sure I don't have any clearance issues with the tunnel etc. and see where I have room for batteries!
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  #135  
Old May 30th, 2013, 06:31 AM
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Charles,

Impressive work dood.

Too bad these guys are several months away of opening the shop in Arlington.

http://www.techshop.ws/
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  #136  
Old May 30th, 2013, 07:34 AM
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Cool. 20K in motor/batteries and it comes down to a few pennies worth of MDF to make it all work.
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  #137  
Old June 5th, 2013, 08:42 AM
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What's funny is I was showing a guy the adapter and he seemed to think the multiple layers of MDF would work as a permanent solution. LOL

Ok, it feels like slow progress but I have started test fitting the assembly in the chassis. It seems to sit a little high to me given the position of the rear output in relation to the crossmember near it so I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. I might need to modify the mounting brackets to lower everything an inch or two. I'm definitely going to need a custom tunnel, and relocate the hand brake lever.



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  #138  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:04 AM
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Rear output flange too high:
It doesn't look too bad, in fact I can't imagine a prop shaft ever coming close to parallel with the chassis rail, but the best thing is to sit the rear axle on the frame bump stops with no springs to see if the angle is good or not. I would be caught cutting that crossmember out and resectioning it where it hits the rear prop shaft if that is indeed the case.

Tunnel follies:
Make a temp tunnel cover out of some light but stiff material like aluminum flashing stock or the like. Easily cut with scissors and tape it together where you need to join edges. This is now your male mold for a fiberglass/epoxy tunnel cover. Coat it with clear packing tape and get as many wrinkles out as you can. Coat with mold release (which I have a ton of...you can get it at West Marine too, or Jamestown Distributors on the web) then do your glassing over this plug. One sticky gooey hour later you have a tunnel cover. Really splurge and get a yard of carbon fiber cloth for $50.

X-Brake or drum or do you need one?
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  #139  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:12 AM
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Series seatbox was made for series gearbox. You need at least a 90/110 four cylindr seatbox and tunnel or move everything 2" forward and use the v8/300tdi seatbox and tunnel. You should be able to modify your seatbox too
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  #140  
Old June 5th, 2013, 09:18 AM
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Bill, I think I'll put together a propshaft, hook it up and do some low rider tests to see the situation. And I concur that modifying the crossmember is an option for sure. But lowering everything a bit might help with clearance in general. But would like to keep stock angles if I can (not sure if 1" would really matter though).

I like your thinking on the tunnel, and carbon fiber might be fun.

I already bought a drum, but will need to figure out the linkage to hopefully keep the series handle, otherwise defender I suppose. I need to fab something up for the diff lever as well.

Dave, I wasn't sure what differences there were in the seatbox other than the obvious tunnel differences. I don't think a defender tunnel would work without mods either so I don't think there is any advantage to switching. I will do my bulkhead work and put that in place before doing any mods though.
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