63 Series IIA 109 PU Hybrid Electric - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 07:21 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Got time to work on the truck today. I pulled the right wing, sills (PITA), seat box and undid the tub bolts. I was going to scrounge up help to remove it and decided it was better to leave it in place while I strip all the top end steel since I have nowhere to work on it anyway. I gave the drivetrain a quick powerwash instead!

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1167.jpg
Views:	240
Size:	83.3 KB
ID:	62003 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1172.jpg
Views:	257
Size:	107.9 KB
ID:	62005 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1171.jpg
Views:	258
Size:	102.1 KB
ID:	62004

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
That is actually very cool. Are you a '63 vintage yourself?
No but the wife is.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 08:20 PM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,743
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Got time to work on the truck today. I pulled the right wing, sills (PITA), seat box and undid the tub bolts. I was going to scrounge up help to remove it and decided it was better to leave it in place while I strip all the top end steel since I have nowhere to work on it anyway. I gave the drivetrain a quick powerwash instead!

Attachment 62003 Attachment 62005 Attachment 62004


No but the wife is.
You've giving me hope for my timeline on the 88 rebuild.
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 08:22 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I don't plan on sizing the drivetrain to be a whole lot more than stock, but can't say how many HP yet. But I can tell you that shifting gears should happen less often than with a gas engine due to a larger power band on the electric.
I think it's important to note that power output of the 3phase AC motor is electronically controlled. EV controllers are able to use PWM and other techniques to adjust torque variably up to the peak maximum available to the motor. Even if one had a 300hp 300Nm torque motor, it could easily be to controlled to account for the weaknesses of the drivetrain.

I'm personally a fan of ditching the transmission altogether. There are dana end yokes available to fit on motors which can couple to driveshafts directly.

But of course the best solution is sometimes whatever is easiest and available. Given the cost of 3phase motors and controllers, it might be more of an issue of what one can find for cheap and building around it.

Maybe the best way to start would be to pull the transfer case and transmission from the truck and put the rest of the truck somewhere else. Make a tranny stand out of wood 2x4's on wheels and bolt the transfer case and transmission to it. Now you are free to look at it and take critical measurements and slowly add pieces to the assembly until you have a working drivetrain.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 08:23 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Don't get too excited. The tear down is the easy/fast part part and I'm taking off big chunks at a time and haven't separated any steel from aluminum yet
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
You've giving me hope for my timeline on the 88 rebuild.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 08:35 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I'm personally a fan of ditching the transmission altogether.
I think this would be nice however it might make the most sense to keep the transfer case and send power to both the front and the rear since the pumpkins are offset. I seem to remember reading someone was using a LT230 divorced from some other transmission so I assume adapters are available. I could of course put a different rear axle in with a centered pumpkin with a driveshaft direct to a motor that can do high rpms. I need to run the numbers using different gear ratios and see what would be needed.

But I need to spend some time looking at my options. AC stuff will be much more expensive but would allow direct drive and regen. Those siemens motors from evtv I was telling you about are looking tempting but then I need an expensive inverter, and controller to match - none of it supported or warrantied. Probably not a good first time conversion choice.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 08:42 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
But I need to spend some time looking at my options. AC stuff will be much more expensive but would allow direct drive and regen. Those siemens motors from evtv I was telling you about are looking tempting but then I need an expensive inverter, and controller to match - none of it supported or warrantied. Probably not a good first time conversion choice.
Yes, now is the time to pray to the DIY gods that they deliver something powerful and cheap. Of course I am doing reading on my own also since you've gotten me interested in the topic, lol
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 09:01 PM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
A forklift motor and a bunch of 8D AGM deep cells, divorced LT230, and lots of beer. Winning!
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 09:05 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
A forklift motor and a bunch of 8D AGM deep cells, divorced LT230, and lots of beer. Winning!
I agree with everything except the batteries. It's a false economy with LA.

Know of any forklifts going cheap?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 09:12 PM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Look in Baltimore, I think there's a used forklift place. Also look on gov liquidation. They sell stuff like that at Ft Meade regularly.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old December 6th, 2012, 11:13 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
There is a lot more steel on the tub than you might think!

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1230.jpg
Views:	245
Size:	101.6 KB
ID:	62343 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1231.jpg
Views:	235
Size:	106.1 KB
ID:	62344
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old December 7th, 2012, 06:42 AM
slorocco
Status: Offline
Dan Prasada-Rao
1963, 109 Station Wagon
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Great Mills, MD, USA
Posts: 930
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I think this would be nice however it might make the most sense to keep the transfer case and send power to both the front and the rear since the pumpkins are offset. I seem to remember reading someone was using a LT230 divorced from some other transmission so I assume adapters are available.
I like the idea of keeping the t-case and 4WD. I'm running a divorced LT230. I did not find an off the shelf adapter. I used a stock input shaft and had a flange welded to the front end of it. Also had to build mounts to hold it in place with out the tranny on the front end.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old December 7th, 2012, 07:16 AM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Thanks Dan, that's great to know.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old December 7th, 2012, 07:37 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Oh boy, that's rivet-licious.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old December 8th, 2012, 11:29 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Charles,

What was the fastest/easiest way you found to remove the solid rivets on the bed?

I ground a couple down with a grinder and flap discs but it was noisy and took forever?
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old December 8th, 2012, 11:32 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
I always hit them with a punch and then drill them out.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old December 8th, 2012, 11:33 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Thanks to Bill, a wood chisel on the steel side, and then knocked the rivet out with a punch. In some cases I punched and drilled a hole in the center first if I didn't have good clearance.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old December 9th, 2012, 08:21 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Thanks charles and jeff, will let you know how it goes , ron I will try you method also
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old December 10th, 2012, 10:20 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
No love with the cold chisel and hammer.

I found out that my truck doesn't use solid rivets. It uses something called a Huck Magnagrip.

The heads are steel and pounding on them with the chisel doesn't seem to do anything.

I guess I am drilling these out.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old December 10th, 2012, 10:53 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Are we talking your 90 or your CRV? What rivets are you trying to remove? How sharp is your cold chisel?

-Jeff
Believe it or not, the truck made in 1984! There are maybe...16 of them holding down the floor of the bed onto the tub supports, which I am trying to remove for galvanizing. Apparently Charles's children can do it, but I can't, hah!

Well, OK, maybe they're not magnagrips. But they look like a magnagrip. In the photo you'll see there is a collar pressed around the shaft. I cut one in half with a dremel so you can see the cross section.

The cold chisel is sharp although the angle isn't particularly acute. That picture is after I tried banging on the rivet hard for a while. It just doesn't budge.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	a.jpg
Views:	162
Size:	69.2 KB
ID:	62577   Click image for larger version

Name:	20121210_224442.jpg
Views:	169
Size:	235.2 KB
ID:	62578  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20121210_224240.jpg
Views:	166
Size:	251.1 KB
ID:	62579  
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old December 10th, 2012, 11:07 PM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,743
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Believe it or not, the truck made in 1984! .
Yeah but what year is it really ?
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Tags
109, series

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake options for my 109' IIA hybrid electric cgalpin Series Technical Discussions 13 July 30th, 2013 02:14 PM
Odd, Rare, and heavy Series Stuff FS "NOS" SafariHP For Sale - Parts 8 May 12th, 2012 12:15 PM
1965 Land Rover Series IIa 109 Frame-up Restoration - $100,000 (Asheville, NC) rijosho The Flea Market 11 September 18th, 2011 01:58 PM
67 Series IIA 109 5 Door C-Delta For Sale - Vehicles 1 August 10th, 2006 02:40 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:57 AM.


Copyright