300Tdi Won't Start - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:15 PM
RBBailey
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300Tdi Won't Start

I got the truck back over a month ago. The engine started fine via direct connections from ignition to fuel solenoid and starter.

After struggling with the electrical harness for a month, finally got it working the way it is supposed to, but with temporary connections.

To test this, we actually started and stopped the engine, and saw that lights and systems were working. 1/2 hour later, after a quick dinner break, I go back out and now the engine won't start.

It cranks.
The fuel solenoid activates.
It had more than 3 gallons of diesel in the tank, and I've run it for about 30-40 minutes, at most.

That's all I know.
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  #2  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:27 PM
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Step 1 is to check that you have a fuel supply. Disconnect line after fuel filter and put in bucket. Disconnect the solenoid wire. Crank engine. You should get a lot of fuel flow.

If that is okay, then I would pull the solenoid and look for debris.
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Old June 27th, 2016, 12:31 PM
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You must be ready to hit your head against in iron block....

I feel frustrated for you.
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  #4  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:17 PM
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To be clear, the line from fuel filter to the fuel distributor? Disconnect at distributor pump and see if lift pump is pushing through?

Yes. I'm getting fuel. In fact the electric pump is sending quite a bit through when key is just in run position. Should this be disabled?
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Old June 27th, 2016, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
To be clear, the line from fuel filter to the fuel distributor? Disconnect at distributor pump and see if lift pump is pushing through?

Yes. I'm getting fuel. In fact the electric pump is sending quite a bit through when key is just in run position. Should this be disabled?
Still not sure why you are running a push pump, but yes remove the 12v pump for the moment.

confirming the problem as: Engine turns over but will not catch? (not expecting timing or damage in the solution)

Assuming a stock fuel system, check these in order:
Fuel is present post lift pump (manual operation of lift pump is sufficient)
Fuel filter is full, clean, and inlet/outlet are clear
Fuel is present at IP inlet (slacken banjo bolt and pump until fuel flows to verify)
Fuel is present at the injectors (remove stop solenoid lead, crack hard-line to injector and turn over engine) ***
Injectors are not clogged (off truck testing)



*** I suspect the stop solenoid is not getting power - check with multimeter to verify 12v is present with the key in BOTH the run position and the ignition position
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Old June 27th, 2016, 03:49 PM
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There is no need to disconnect the 12V pump.

Agreed that the fuel shutoff solenoid is the likely culprit.
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Old June 27th, 2016, 03:54 PM
RBBailey
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  • Assuming a stock fuel system, check these in order:
    • Yes. Electric pump is there because it's there. Can I assume that just unplugging it is OK for now? This is how it has been running in past.
  • Fuel is present post lift pump (manual operation of lift pump is sufficient)
    • Yes.
  • Fuel filter is full, clean, and inlet/outlet are clear
    • Assuming yes, because fuel flow is good. How do I check for full? Bleed screw at top of filter?
  • Fuel is present at IP inlet (slacken banjo bolt and pump until fuel flows to verify)
    • IP = Injector Pump? (Sorry, this is all new to me still....) Not sure which banjo you are referring to. I have confirmed that there is fuel getting all the way to the injector pump when engine is cranked.
  • Fuel is present at the injectors (remove stop solenoid lead, crack hard-line to injector and turn over engine)
    • Will check
  • Injectors are not clogged (off truck testing)
    • Injectors were newly refurbished. Don't know how to test.
  • I suspect the stop solenoid is not getting power - check with multimeter to verify 12v is present with the key in BOTH the run position and the ignition position
    • Will check.
Thanks,
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Old June 27th, 2016, 05:12 PM
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OK. I think I got it working correctly now. I'm pretty sure it was just my broken ignition switch. It was putting voltage out, but once turned to start, it must not have been making contact anymore.

Re-re-fixed it and I'm able to get engine started as before.

Thanks for he help.

I'm heading off to the UK on Thursday, but except for that, I feel like I can now start actually rebuilding this thing proper.
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