1997 D-90 LE to 110 conversion - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 04:54 PM
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Hey Tyler,

Thanks for pic #8! I was concerned about my tube clearance on my rebuild when I ran the SS fuel lines. This clearly shows I have enough room. I am so far away from getting the tub back on my frame.
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  #22  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 06:01 PM
Tyler Wirken
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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Hey Tyler,

Thanks for pic #8! I was concerned about my tube clearance on my rebuild when I ran the SS fuel lines. This clearly shows I have enough room. I am so far away from getting the tub back on my frame.

No problem however I must say the photo is misleading. My tub was sitting high there so I could shoot a photo of the lines. The tub support there actually sits on the little bracket there so the lines need to really be tight. I will shoot another photo of it for you with the tub sitting like it should be.

Sorry to get you excited!
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  #23  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler Wirken View Post
No problem however I must say the photo is misleading. My tub was sitting high there so I could shoot a photo of the lines. The tub support there actually sits on the little bracket there so the lines need to really be tight. I will shoot another photo of it for you with the tub sitting like it should be.

Sorry to get you excited!
Damn! Guess I'll just have to wait and see. This is how the factory lines ran.
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  #24  
Old April 23rd, 2010, 08:38 AM
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Not sure why but when you weld something and grind it down flush then go and galv. the piece, the weld bubbles back up and swells... I had that happen every time. Prob. due to heat or something.. IT once did that on a front Radiator support that I rebuilt on a series 3. After the metal work, it looked great. Dipped it and the repair area all showed up. I was pissed.. I was luck hat I just grinded it down then, and was able to prime and paint it.
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  #25  
Old April 23rd, 2010, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy View Post
Not sure why but when you weld something and grind it down flush then go and galv. the piece, the weld bubbles back up and swells... I had that happen every time. Prob. due to heat or something.. IT once did that on a front Radiator support that I rebuilt on a series 3. After the metal work, it looked great. Dipped it and the repair area all showed up. I was pissed.. I was luck hat I just grinded it down then, and was able to prime and paint it.
Not sure about the problem, but I had a _really good_ welder do the work on my chassis - it didn't have that problem anywhere after I galved it. Maybe I'm not understanding...
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  #26  
Old April 23rd, 2010, 01:24 PM
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I am glad it happened to someone else as I thought it was something I did.

Basically Jim it seems to happen where you have ground down a weld that was previously there. The galvanizing seems to then slightly raise the weld again. Weird as where I ground down the welds on my cross member that were there from the original tabs it was perfectly smooth and totally gone. Then after dipping it they were there just not as prominent as before. I can not explain it either.
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  #27  
Old April 23rd, 2010, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler Wirken View Post
Weird as where I ground down the welds on my cross member that were there from the original tabs it was perfectly smooth and totally gone. Then after dipping it they were there just not as prominent as before..
Isn't it something to do with residual weld material reacting with the zinc to build up more in a localized area? I thought Matt B posted something along those lines, but I can't find the thread.
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  #28  
Old April 23rd, 2010, 03:18 PM
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Zinc sticks to weld more.
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  #29  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 11:08 PM
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Time to resurrect this thread. The part that depresses me is that I last posted on it almost a year ago! Unreal where the time goes.

Good news is that a ton has happened since then so this is a bit of a long thread. You would think it would be done by now but time is the smallest resource I seem to have.

So in the fall all the paint was finished up. That was a crazy process as the rear tub was pretty rough and took way more man hours than I thought to prep it. I also wanted to make sure the galvanized t-posts were painted properly. In the end I took them back to the galvanizers and had them acid etch dip them. That prepared them to accept paint. Then my painter used a self etching primer and then paint. All seems pretty good.

From there it was months of work on the one of the biggest mods of the truck, the installation of the Disco II middle seat. I have never liked the stock middle seat in a 110 and wanted to give my kids a way more safe and comfortable place to ride. So I saw a post here of a DII seat installed in a 110 and decided to go for it. I bought a used black leather DII seat and started to cut and fab. I am really happy with the result. It was not easy but it fits really well. We had to cut out the tub and have some replacement panels to make room for the seat as well as fab some brackets for mounting as well as some nut plates so the seat can be removed with ease.

I then undercoated the tub and rust proof anything I could as well as spent hours seam sealing the tub and seatbox. Got the holes cut in the tub as well for the NAS cage as well.

Finally as of late got the tub on and spent a few days aligning the tub, bulkhead and t-posts. Thanks to posts by JimC, and MUDSUX for help on the string trick. Mine was a bit different as in the end it appears that my bulkhead might have been sprung a bit as I needed more washers on one side than the other to make it all line up. Frustrating process but in the end all seems good.

Also spent a decent amount time modifying the rear exo cage mounts as an early 110 tub is different from an NAS one and the cage feet that mount to the rear x-member need to be cut and fished through the tub in two separate pieces.

Finally got my Safari Gard rear shock towers modified to fit a 110. Had to cut them down and fab up some more brackets to make them fit. I am now in the process if restoring my FOX shocks by having the shock bodies re-plated to original looking finish as mine were pretty rusty.

Then of course hours researching the rest of the mods.

In the months to come I will be building the new rear door as well as the other 4 doors. Installing the sound deadening mat, and hopefully bolting on doors and roof soon.

Later
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  #30  
Old March 24th, 2011, 06:57 PM
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Tyler, your truck is looking really good. I'm envious of your skills. I'd love to be able to do this kind of work on my Defender!
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  #31  
Old March 24th, 2011, 07:31 PM
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Thanks Chad! I appreciate it. I wish my skills were a tad better as well. I got the ideas and some skills but need others to do the heavy lifting for me.

Thanks

Tyler

------ Follow up post added March 24th, 2011 06:36 PM ------

I also wanted to thanks Miles Murphy for posting the link in the other thread about the Disco II seats as I could not find my info on that. Aaron at GB 4x4 was my inspiration for the rear DII seat and was willing to send me some photos of his project he did for a customer as a starting reference point. It really helped with my installation. Just wanted to make sure he got a shout out and a thanks.
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  #32  
Old March 25th, 2011, 06:41 AM
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Nice looking truck, It looks like a well spent year. Thanks for the props, the D2 rear seats are really nice, pushing them back more adult leg room and real seat belts for the center child.
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  #33  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:30 PM
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Great workmanship, Tyler. This is going to be a really nice 110. Mark
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  #34  
Old March 25th, 2011, 09:49 PM
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Watching enthusiastically. great work on the DiscoII seat mod.
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  #35  
Old April 23rd, 2011, 11:02 AM
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Hello Tyler, the D2 rear seats are great, do you have some more detail pics of the conversion?
Did you need to do some work on the seats them self too?

I also rebuilding my 90 into 110. Not as good as you do it, but also nice and for the same reasons.
I used my trusted 90 200Tdi 1993 for parts to put them into the 1984 2,5 NA 110.
Replacing the engine of course and change from RHD to LHD because it was also an UK import.
Also the rears and fron axle.

I aslo looked for a D3 second row seats but the are hard to get and also difficult to fit I think.

Hope to hear from you.

Regards,

Erik (from The Netherlands)
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  #36  
Old April 24th, 2011, 10:19 PM
Tyler Wirken
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Hey Erik-

Thanks for the kind words on the project. Glad to hear you are doing the same project. I know it will be worth it but this project sure is a big one. Loads of time.

As for the DII seats. There are no mods required to the seat except that I cut off the child seat latches on the sides to make it a better fit. Other wise no mods to the seats just the mods to the rear tub like I showed.

I do not have any more images of them right now but I promise to shoot some more when I put the seats in for good. Just not promising when that will actually be!

Thanks and good luck with your project.
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  #37  
Old April 25th, 2011, 07:19 AM
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Looks great Tyler.
What tires are in that last set of pictures?
And I wonder if the seat mod would work in a double cab, if there is enough room to move them back?
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  #38  
Old April 25th, 2011, 10:26 AM
Tyler Wirken
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Thanks Tom. The tires are my old BFG 35x12.50's from my 90. Not sure I am going to stick with that size. I will for sure get new BFG KM2's just not sure what size they will be just yet.

As for the double cab and the DII seats I have no idea to be honest. My gut says it would not as there will not be enough room to scoot them back.
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  #39  
Old April 25th, 2011, 05:05 PM
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Hey, do you still need that bracket off the frame? I'm going to cut it off, and if I don't need it, which I don't think I will, its yours.
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  #40  
Old April 25th, 2011, 10:41 PM
Tyler Wirken
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Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
Hey, do you still need that bracket off the frame? I'm going to cut it off, and if I don't need it, which I don't think I will, its yours.

Hey man. Yeah I would love to have it. I will e-mail you with a photo of exactly what I need and you can let me know what you want for it.
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