1994 RRC LWB Daily Driver - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old October 14th, 2014, 10:12 AM
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There's also supposed to be a calibration code 2112 that you punch in and it resets all the shiz and checks functions and all.

------ Follow up post added October 14th, 2014 10:15 AM ------

Ya if I have to I can swap out the one on the black truck which is fully operational.
Also only have one door actuator that's doing anything when the fob is operated.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #42  
Old October 14th, 2014, 07:00 PM
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I don't think they're going to ding me on this...


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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #43  
Old October 14th, 2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
It's a pain getting the seat ECU out because, of course, the seat is usually inoperable...

I'd wait on ordering a battery until you see the condition; my board traces were shot (it belongs in the Hall of Shame).


.



If you can provide power and ground to this plug, you can move the seat.
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  #44  
Old October 14th, 2014, 07:43 PM
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To move the seat, I used a hot and a ground. The yellow and green wires are the motor wires. Touching the pin pairs with the hot and ground got the motor moving.
Some SOB ran the rail bolts down so hard I couldn't get the last one out and I had to drill.

ECU battery was juicy but didn't seem to have ruined anything. Just now unsoldered it. Cleaned board and it's ready for new battery. Should be good now.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #45  
Old October 14th, 2014, 10:12 PM
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Really enjoying the Range Rover threads, glad to see this one being kept on the road.
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  #46  
Old October 17th, 2014, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
To move the seat, I used a hot and a ground. The yellow and green wires are the motor wires. Touching the pin pairs with the hot and ground got the motor moving.
...


I used a 7.2V Nimh battery from one of my RC cars as a power source. Worked like a charm. I wasted a few minutes looking for the four screws in the rear of the seat rails, which is what the RAVE diagram shows. Then I realized this must be one of those sections that weren't updated for the '95 RRC. I found the two star fasteners that replaced the smaller 4 screws in prior years and removed them. Finally, the seat came off.
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'95 RRC SWB
'95 RRC LWB (Sold)
'06 E350 Sport
'87 HD FLST w/ '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
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  #47  
Old October 17th, 2014, 09:11 PM
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Got the parts in to repair the memory seat ECU. Desoldered the old battery and one of the ICs I installed a socket for the IC so it can be replaced easily. Parts less than $15. Have not tested it.
Enjoying a wrench free weekend on the Eastern Shore.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #48  
Old October 18th, 2014, 11:34 AM
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Bill - Did you have to replace any of the capacitors? Mine are blistered and I can't find the specs for these buggers. I also need to redo some of the circuits as the corrosion destroyed them, but hopefully a magnifying glass and a steady hand will do...
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'95 RRC SWB
'95 RRC LWB (Sold)
'06 E350 Sport
'87 HD FLST w/ '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
'02 Hobie Getaway
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  #49  
Old October 18th, 2014, 01:51 PM
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I'll try to get the numbers off the ones on my board. Your board looks awfully janky. I believe tho, that it can all be jumpered from below. Get some really small tinned wire that has insulation.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #50  
Old October 18th, 2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post

Your board looks awfully janky. .
Bill is being nice; your board looks like shit, Peter.
I hope you're good at rebuilding those traces...


.
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  #51  
Old October 18th, 2014, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I'll try to get the numbers off the ones on my board. Your board looks awfully janky. I believe tho, that it can all be jumpered from below. Get some really small tinned wire that has insulation.


No worries, I was able to desolder and remove the caps, and of the three, only one had the complete markings, 104. Now, the traces...I'm hoping my circuitwriter penmanship isn't too bad...
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'95 RRC LWB (Sold)
'06 E350 Sport
'87 HD FLST w/ '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
'02 Hobie Getaway
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  #52  
Old October 18th, 2014, 06:46 PM
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I'm just busting your chops Peter; I tossed my seat ECU because the board looked like crap.

.
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  #53  
Old October 18th, 2014, 07:50 PM
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Sorry, out paddling and checking out the bald eagles on the upper end of the creek
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #54  
Old October 19th, 2014, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I'm just busting your chops Peter; I tossed my seat ECU because the board looked like crap.

.


No worries, Jeff. I've seen much worse brought back to life and with the price of even a used one, I figured I should at least take a stab at it. I'm more willing to spend my time than money. Plus I have to justify my relentless purchasing of tools somehow...


Bill - enjoy the outdoors!
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'95 RRC LWB (Sold)
'06 E350 Sport
'87 HD FLST w/ '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
'02 Hobie Getaway
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  #55  
Old October 20th, 2014, 09:53 AM
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At home today since my eye decided it would be a good time for a flare up. can't stare at a computer all day, so I can do some work on the 94.

Little slide switch inside the heater controls was broken. The pin that connects to the slider busted off. A little bit of heat welding and it's back together enough to be servicable. PO undid the wires. There's a green and a light green or yellow wire that goes to it. Obviously one tells the thermostat unit that it's in heat mode and the other tells it it's cooling. Any guesses? I will try pulling the face plate off the other truck to see if I can tell.

Got it. All it has to do is make contact when the temp select is all the way to the left. Should be OK.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #56  
Old October 20th, 2014, 11:17 AM
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Yay. Found new heated windshield. Installed on-site price 382.00 from Safelite of all people!
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #57  
Old October 20th, 2014, 03:25 PM
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Yay again. Seat ECU all good again.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #58  
Old October 20th, 2014, 03:44 PM
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Bill check your PM
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  #59  
Old October 21st, 2014, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Yay. Found new heated windshield. Installed on-site price 382.00 from Safelite of all people!
That was probably the glass that they brought to me for my '95, which wouldn't really work for the '95s. Safelite told me a month ago they couldn't source the heated glass for the '95s. You've been really fortunate in your build...
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'95 RRC SWB
'95 RRC LWB (Sold)
'06 E350 Sport
'87 HD FLST w/ '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
'02 Hobie Getaway
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  #60  
Old October 24th, 2014, 09:18 PM
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Left front brake caliper ok. Right all jacked. Fortunately have rebuild parts and I put new pistons in it. Get the rotors and pads on tomorrow.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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