1994 NAS D90 Tdi auto swap - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 10th, 2012, 12:51 AM
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peter
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1994 NAS D90 Tdi auto swap

I thought I would start a post on what my Tdi conversion has entailed and hopefully address some common issues that are encountered with the swap. So far I have done a number of replacements to the 90 before taking on the swap:

new brake rotor (4)
new reman brake calipers (4)
new master cylinder
new wheels bearings all around
new axles seals
new HD axle shafts front and rear, CVs as well, all from RovingTracks
new swivel balls seals
new swivel pins, shims, and bearings
new swivel ball passenger side
new u-joints front and rear
new procomp shocks (4)
new front shock tower rings (broken bolts....yes)
new rockware HD steering shafts and rods
new tie rod ends and pitman arm end (pitman arm end, wow that took some force)
new HD steering stabilizer
new 255/85 bfg mtr km2 tires (5)
new 97 transmission cooler and lines (didn't have a cooler before...wtf people?!)
custom fab grill to give some air to new cooler, fancy mesh, matching paint and all
new trans filter and gasket (have to take out crossmember to drop the pan grr)
new plugs and wires and filters (gas, oil, fuel)
new stainless steel oil cooler lines
new rebuilt/recored radiator by local shop (do our mine equipment, real good stuff)
water pump and hoses only about 3mo old when i got the 90
new viscous fan clutch (this was the big help in the 100+ deg temps)
new vdo water temp gauge and sender (nice having accuracy)
new hella headlights installed (soo much brighter, great upgrade)
new painless wiring headlight harness (to handle bigger load from new lights)
new headlight switch (happened to fail after being at the bar for a bit and had to drive home with brights level held down...not cool)
new 95/97 headlight surrounds
new 95/97 turn signal lights and bezels (converter with the rockware bumper)
new dash light dimmer switch
new rockware front winch bumper
new warn 9.5 cti winch with 1/0 welding cable leads and soldered connectors
new rockware rock sliders with tree bars
new rockware rear bumper with jerry can holder and hi-lift mount
new tuffy lockable boxes in the rear (two of them, one on each side on the "benches")
new marine dc gold speakers (6x9s waterproof) installed on the boxes
new exhaust gaskets
new O2 sensors
used MAF sensor from forum member
new alloy skid plate/fuel tank cradle
new 42" hi-lift

So posts to follow are what I have done after this. I have a list, but I will post things as completed and not what I hope to do.

Please feel free to help and comment along the way.

Thanks,
Pete
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  #2  
Old October 10th, 2012, 01:09 AM
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peter
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Day 1 Tank Drop and Repair

So day one I dropped the tank to get at the fuel pump and did some mods to the rear bumper. The bumper came with some plates to sandwich the bumper, at first i thought they wanted the rear crossmember to be sandwiched but after examining the extra flex in the bumper body, adding that extra plate so it sandwiches the bumper it cuts the bumper span in half and cuts out some of the wiggle out. I will try and find a rear tire carrier dampener again (having sold mine, OEM one that mounts in the center of the door) to try and take the rest of the wiggle out. I added a bunch of leftover dynomat to the jerry can holders and that has helped heaps with any rattles in back.

So I dropped the tank and got things out of the way and unhooked it so I could repair the near melt through. I also replaced the top tank hoses with some cool fancy mine hoses that are good to go with bio. I followed an old post of cgalpin and used a similar getup from ebay and plastic welded my tank. I also layed in some SS mesh and then continued to layer on the plastic. I had a few bubbles while laying in the new plastic, but I think there was still some alcohol vaporizing coming out, so if you repair, give it some drying time. I did, but I bet 15 min is minimum.

This plastic seems super stout, and it sounds like this method of repair hasn't been an issue yet.

4 hours worked
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  #3  
Old October 10th, 2012, 01:15 AM
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peter
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Day 2 starting to take down rad and acc

Day 2 I started to remove the radiator support and engine accessories. Not alot to tell, but an number of things to take off and along the way I have tried to use painters tape to mark its location. And take care to not dump fluids everywhere and likewise not let dirt and grime get in the removed connectors.

6 hours (10 running total)
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  #4  
Old October 10th, 2012, 01:18 AM
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peter
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Day 3 under the 90 unhooking things

Not alot to talk about here. I have just moved on to disconnecting things under the 90 to get ready to pull the whole drivetrain.

3 hours (13 hours running total)
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  #5  
Old October 10th, 2012, 01:27 AM
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peter
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Day 4 tunnel and center console removal

Today started a discovery of the tunnel being hacked to fit a custom zf auto shifter install. So kind of a bummer, but looks to be that I have another good tunnel coming from the uk. A bit of confusion with the 90 being an LT77 1994 D90, but the tunnel is a fiberglass one that appears to match a R380 one. So time will tell when it comes, but it looks the same.

A little of a pissed off moment to find that the reason the 4x4 dash light didnt work was because it wasnt hooked up. WTF, really....zf swap or not the f-ing thing is right there. And the reverse lights.....also soo close too. Can't believe it wasnt done right.

But another set of gear done and out of the way.

2 hours (15 hours running total)
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  #6  
Old October 10th, 2012, 01:44 AM
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peter
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Day 5 fuel pump

Tonight I thought I would tackle the fuel pump with the fancy SS tube I got from grainger. WOW! does not take to a bend like Cu or Al tube, to be guessed, but oh man, that was a good effort to bend the pipe. I ordered a couple different diameters. i liked the grainger item 3ADE9 that had the inside diameter of .319in. I heated it up until it was red with a propane torch and then pushed it on the steel nipple that used to receive the in tank pump line. The tight fit and red hot makes for a heck of a fit. I botched the first run and used a vise grips to deform the tube before the nipple. So I am confident that this will work for the long run since the removal took soo much force. I measured about 18cm down from the top rib of the nipple and then started my bend with a tube bender. I then used a die grinder and cut away some of the plastic pump flange to get the pickup tube to be in the same-ish direction of the pickup. I had about a 26cm horizontal run. then I bent the tube until it was not touching the bottom of the tank, but just barely off by test fitting a coupe times. So all in all I think it will work fine, I thought maybe adding another SS line for the return, but I don't think that diesel vaporizes like petrol does. i just feel bad for making the fuel gauge flop around soo much during my testings.

So a couple pics. And one of the first o crap moments. seemed like a good idea, just put in the tube and then bend it. But I quicly found that wasnt going to work. So pre bend your tube! But it made me think of the old MTV "mighty beach house tiki god".......but this was the "mighty beach house fuel pump god".....sigh I know. Its neat when you can start dating yourself with old pop culture...

2 hours worked (17 hours running total)
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  #7  
Old October 10th, 2012, 10:00 PM
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peter
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Not too much excitement tonight. Got home from work and changed out the stock coils for tough dog 508s in the front. Now I know the bumper and winch aren't on, but with my 240 lbs on the frame it is giving me about 2.5 inches of lift, 3.5 without me. I thought they were supposed to be about an inch. But we will see how it is with the diesel in there, but I bet I about equal the extra diesel weight and the bumper with winch. I do like how it looks, but there are garage issues if its too tall. Like I said we will see when all the gear is on there.

2 hours worked (19 hours running total)
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  #8  
Old November 21st, 2012, 01:42 PM
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I notice in your 1st post that you replace O2 sensors.....why.....diesels don't do O2 sensors ??
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Old November 21st, 2012, 04:12 PM
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I read that as the list of recent replacements on the truck prior to deciding to go tdi.
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Old November 21st, 2012, 06:06 PM
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peter
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Exactly, that's what I did prior to starting the swap. Engine is out now, should be putting in the new mounts next weekend. Going to see family this weekend.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 06:04 PM
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I did this swap myself a couple of years ago. It's fun to watch from outside the garage :-)
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Old January 25th, 2014, 02:59 PM
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peter
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After a long hiatus, we are back in action.
Engine is in now.
Now the fun can begin!
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  #13  
Old January 25th, 2014, 03:04 PM
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peter
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Sweet galvy crossmember from Oliver at Overland Specialties.
Along with Ashcroft tdi zf auto.
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  #14  
Old January 25th, 2014, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Sweet galvy crossmember from Oliver at Overland Specialties.
Along with Ashcroft tdi zf auto.
Nice progress. What has been the biggest challenge on the project so far? Also, what size are those x-member bolts? Perhaps they just look small in the picture.
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Old January 25th, 2014, 04:47 PM
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peter
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They are the original bolts for the stock transmission/transfer case mounts from the v8 setup. The nice thing with this crossmember is that is uses the same holes while putting the crossmember in the correct spot. The bolt at the bottom front is one of the original v8 crossmember bolts, which is a lot thicker, I can see what you're saying.

Biggest challenge so so far. Really most things haven't been to bad. I thought I had some issues with the mounts and such but that got sorted pretty easy actually. Just welding in the motor mounts was the only hard part, but I had a buddy who is a pro welder do it. It was easy for him lol.
I would have been a lot further if I wouldn't have had to wait a year to get some issues with the engine sorted. That's been the biggest pain.
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