1993 Nas 110 #302 - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 29th, 2010, 09:29 PM
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Yep.

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is the truck still going to be white?
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  #22  
Old December 29th, 2010, 09:54 PM
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are you doing a respray or just painting your new doors and bulkhead?

Now is a good time to rebuild your heaterbox. I would open that thing up and make sure it all is in top notch condition. It is such a bitch to remove later.
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  #23  
Old December 29th, 2010, 11:56 PM
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That bulkhead far exceeds the rustiest 83,84,85 bulkhead I have seen. Strange how clean the frame (seen through the bulkhead) looks to be.
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  #24  
Old December 30th, 2010, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
That bulkhead far exceeds the rustiest 83,84,85 bulkhead I have seen. Strange how clean the frame (seen through the bulkhead) looks to be.
I wonder if the dyna mat didn't play a part in the rusting.
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  #25  
Old December 30th, 2010, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
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I wonder if the dyna mat didn't play a part in the rusting.
By trapping water under it?

I was always scared of dynamatting the pedal box for that reason.
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  #26  
Old December 30th, 2010, 07:47 PM
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What to never say while disassembling a 110...

"this is really going well, I think I will for sure have everything off that I planned by 5"

Needless to say I only got half of what I had planned today and on the way went down several rat holes that will make thing more complicated.
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  #27  
Old December 31st, 2010, 01:40 PM
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More Progress

Found it to be easier to remove the complete wing as stated in several posts. It was made especially quick by first removing the shock tower as it simply falls out the side once the tower is out of the way.
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  #28  
Old December 31st, 2010, 08:18 PM
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Wow! That's impressive! Did any of the bolts break getting the roll cage off?

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"this is really going well, I think I will for sure have everything off that I planned by 5"

Needless to say I only got half of what I had planned today and on the way went down several rat holes that will make thing more complicated.
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  #29  
Old January 1st, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Outer cage came off pretty easy. One of the welded nuts did break loose requiring me to drill out the bolt. 4 bolts that fastened the inner hoop put up a fight but held together and came out without breaking. As for just about every other bolt on the body removal, I am guessing about 50% of them have broken.

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Wow! That's impressive! Did any of the bolts break getting the roll cage off?
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  #30  
Old January 1st, 2011, 04:03 PM
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I'm tempted to have my cage removed and powdercoated black. The local body guy said he'd do it for $30 per hour plus materials. My concern was that many of the bolts would break and it would turn into a big, expensive project. I removed one of the bolts myself no problem. Can the cage come off in one piece or do you take it entirely apart? Thanks!


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Originally Posted by mattarm View Post
Outer cage came off pretty easy. One of the welded nuts did break loose requiring me to drill out the bolt. 4 bolts that fastened the inner hoop put up a fight but held together and came out without breaking. As for just about every other bolt on the body removal, I am guessing about 50% of them have broken.
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  #31  
Old January 1st, 2011, 04:13 PM
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Fred

I wrote a whole write up about it. You have to take the cage entirely apart to remove but this is what you want to do anyway as it would be too heavy and huge to come off in one piece. I removed mine by myself without an issue. You will need help to reinstall. The cage will expand when you remove it and you will literally need to ratchet strap and push and curse as you put it back together. I would personally replace all the bolts while you are at it. Most go stainless but I went and bought all new factory bolts and fiber washers. Not cheap but looks better in my opinion. You will also want to buy the right black sealant to seal the cage to the body. The rubber feet from a 90 do not fit and even if they did they won't seal anything. Now as for powdercoating the cage, make sure you have a company that really knows what they are doing. You need to strip that english powder coating off properly and make sure there are no impurities on the cage before you zinc prime and powder coat it. Not easy and if the pwoder coater doesn't know in advance, the cost can add up.

I thought you were selling the truck?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #32  
Old January 1st, 2011, 04:43 PM
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What Barry said. I imagine that you can get it all off by yourself, but I have had an extra set of hands both times I have taken mine off. When I had mine powdercoated a few years ago I just took it to the closest place. While I did not have any issues with powdercoating coming off, I did have an issue with UV damage so I will be looking for someone that can provide powdercoating with UV protection. I did not use the factory bolts but rather went with a standard grade 8 bolt and a rubber/steel washer.
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  #33  
Old January 1st, 2011, 05:03 PM
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The regular grade 8 with 17mm hex head with the Mud Stuff Uk snap on head covers looks best. Recently brought one over from Berkshire Land Rover where the had installed a SD cage and they used these caps and it looked very factory/finished.

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Nut_Caps.shtml
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  #34  
Old January 1st, 2011, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
The regular grade 8 with 17mm hex head with the Mud Stuff Uk snap on head covers looks best. Recently brought one over from Berkshire Land Rover where the had installed a SD cage and they used these caps and it looked very factory/finished.

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Nut_Caps.shtml
They blend well because they are black but overall I hate how they popup. Just too many of them in my opinion for the caps. Wish you could get black stainless bolts
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #35  
Old January 1st, 2011, 10:14 PM
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My my. for someone with a Prius powered Hummer we certainly are all about aesthetics aren't we.
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  #36  
Old January 1st, 2011, 11:41 PM
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The cage looked cool on the 110 that I had and I am sure it makes the truck safer but the idea of cutting holes through the defender and prius bodies to mount it to the hummer for the cage mounts is something I could never stomach.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #37  
Old January 3rd, 2011, 06:31 PM
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Removed the wiring today. Of everything I have taken off the truck, this has me the most nervous when it comes time to reassemble. For the life of me I cannot figure out why some of the wiring was run the way that it was. Are there any pointers/improvements/recommendations/modifications that anyone has on reassembly?
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  #38  
Old January 6th, 2011, 04:01 PM
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By the looks of my stock 110, I would put all of the wiring in some sort of rubber conduit with rubber gaskets or protection anytime the wiring could get near the frame, a heat source or the outside elements. The rearward brake/trailer wiring is particularly exposed.


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Originally Posted by mattarm View Post
Removed the wiring today. Of everything I have taken off the truck, this has me the most nervous when it comes time to reassemble. For the life of me I cannot figure out why some of the wiring was run the way that it was. Are there any pointers/improvements/recommendations/modifications that anyone has on reassembly?
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  #39  
Old January 24th, 2011, 06:55 PM
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Still moving along

Tub off and everything but the heater off of the bulkhead. Crappy cell phone pic.
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  #40  
Old March 13th, 2011, 09:41 PM
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Is it common to want to throw away most of the parts you remove during disassembly?
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