Axle Rebuild/ Non-ABS to ABS bits. Why?
With the recent spell of really nice weather here in SC PA, I was able to return to the task of repairing the front axle.
I had left off at the end of March with the axle disassembled, donor parts from a 92 RRC procured, and an optimistic attitude that all fitment would go swell. Ah, such innocence, such naivety…
The subject of fitting later model Suffix A/ ABS axle components to an earlier Suffix B/ non-ABS axle is worthy of a write-up all its own, although I wonder if many people would be interested. Removing ABS seems to be a popular topic, but, unless it’s the only option, I imagine few would choose the opposite. Of course, I wasn’t adding an entire ABS system, simply using ABS axle bits; however, financially and time-wise, I would have been further ahead had I just rebuilt all of the original busted components. This is doubly true for me since I plan to do just that in the future.
Original, Non-ABS Components
The Later-model, ABS Replacements
There are numerous subtle differences between the ABS and non-ABS designs involving the axle stub length, wheel bearing spacing, top swivel mount, and brake line support. Fortunately, the overall axle lengths, brake calipers, attached steering components, and wheel track width are all compatible.
I had intended to use a mix of the 91 and 92 parts, but for the differences noted above, that wasn’t to be. However, mounting the entire 92 end assemblies (from swivel balls to drive flanges) went fairly straight-forward save for the pesky ABS sensors.
ABS Sensor
The wire and sensor sticking out of the top swivel bearing mount makes for complications when reinstalling the attached brake line support plate. Simply removing the sensor would leave an open pit straight to the swivel housing and encased CV joint. I decided a modification was in order.
Enter Small Vise and Hacksaw
Result
*Note:
Be careful when removing the top swivel bearing. LR’s idea of combining the mount location for both the top swivel bearing and the brake line support plate is not one of their finer, since removing the bolts for the top swivel bearing allows the swivel ball to sag and thus leak fluid from around the resulting distorted oil seal. If you’re servicing the swivel ball or its inhabitants or relatives, this is acceptable, but to just service the brake caliper, the brake line support plate must be removed, which means the mounting bolts need removed, which means that if you didn’t take preparatory measures, a basic brake job becomes an unexpected oily mess.*
The top swivel bearings were reinstalled along with the brake calipers, and it was time to mount the brake line support plates. Modifying the sensor protrusion solved only ½ the problem here, the other ½ being that the distance between mounting bolts had widened, presumably to make way for the sensor. No worries; in traditional LR mentality, I adapted.
Adapt or Perish
I used a stack of washers (to be replaced with a spacer) to attach the plate with one bolt, while the second bolt sits home per spec. This setup provides the advantage of being able to remove the brake line support plate (and thus the brake caliper) without completely releasing the top swivel bearing mount. It isn’t perfect, as some oil will still seep with the one mounting bolt removed, but it is a much less messy solution.
Next up, brakes and steering.