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  #21  
Old September 26th, 2016, 09:10 PM
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Made some headway. Front seats out, didn't have time to yank the benches. I will do that tomorrow. It took about 5 minutes with a 1/4 drill bit to get the top capping out, drilling the rivets. So far so good. Now time for the debate.
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  #22  
Old September 27th, 2016, 08:05 AM
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Put another hour or so in last night post debate. Still only working with just a drill. I removed all the rivets and spot welds I can get to. The bulkhead is now just a wobbly piece of sheet metal. Tonight I will cut the majority out in one section, using the drilled out rivets as a template . Following that I will work on the edges to get them as neat and tidy as I can.

So far a potential pain point is on the far sides there is 2 spot welds and one rivet that connect it to the side of the truck. The rivet is hidden by the top capping, but the spot welds are visible from the outside. I am afraid of drilling it to far and coming out the other side. I am trying to be very careful. I messed with them on the passenger side so far. I didn't drill the rivet all the way through and the spot welds i guess I haven't gone far enough. I am going to be googling to see what others do in this situation.

I would love to see some close up shots of the edges on a NAS truck. Please post if you have them.
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  #23  
Old September 27th, 2016, 08:06 AM
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This is one of the sides and above mentioned two spot welds and rivet.
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  #24  
Old September 27th, 2016, 09:02 AM
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Hi Adam, I like this build. It's a great way to build a white 90. NAS 90 SW's are something any ROW 90 can achieve, which I believe part of your end goal!

I would put NAS Tail Lights on it, and cover the upper holes for the ROW tail lamps.
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  #25  
Old September 27th, 2016, 09:30 AM
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Are you removing this or putting something structural back in its place ? Most of the commercial bulkhead removal kits on the market retain enough for it to be structural or replace the panel with a bar to keep the tub sides together. The MUD UK kit is the cleanest imo but doesn't remove as much of the bulkhead as I'd like.
Have a 90 build here and I asked 3 times about cutting out the bulkhead and got a fuzzy no ea time. I think the owner will be disapointed when his mega buck special order Exmoor leather seats wont slide back far enough or recline
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  #26  
Old September 27th, 2016, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Are you removing this or putting something structural back in its place ? Most of the commercial bulkhead removal kits on the market retain enough for it to be structural or replace the panel with a bar to keep the tub sides together. The MUD UK kit is the cleanest imo but doesn't remove as much of the bulkhead as I'd like.
Have a 90 build here and I asked 3 times about cutting out the bulkhead and got a fuzzy no ea time. I think the owner will be disapointed when his mega buck special order Exmoor leather seats wont slide back far enough or recline
intrenal SD roll bar like mine does tie into the tub sides so you can completely remove the BH
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  #27  
Old September 27th, 2016, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Are you removing this or putting something structural back in its place ? Most of the commercial bulkhead removal kits on the market retain enough for it to be structural or replace the panel with a bar to keep the tub sides together. The MUD UK kit is the cleanest imo but doesn't remove as much of the bulkhead as I'd like.
Have a 90 build here and I asked 3 times about cutting out the bulkhead and got a fuzzy no ea time. I think the owner will be disapointed when his mega buck special order Exmoor leather seats wont slide back far enough or recline
I am installing the SD NAS style roll bar setup. There is an internal cross bar, as well as an external under body cross bar.

Land Rover Defender 90 200Tdi Station Wagon Multi Point Bolt-in Roll Cage | Safety Devices €“ Experts In Automotive Safety Solutions

For your customer Land Rover sells a bulkhead removal bar, as does Britpart, and I think P&P too. Certainly more difficult to install then the MUD UK but looks nicer IMO.

Here is the Britpart
Britpart

Just found these install instructions. Should prove useful. It looks like I do in fact have to drill out those side spot welds (eek). No mention of the rivet but I guess that is self explanatory.... Here they leave the protruding lip with the rivets around the wheel wells. NAS trucks don't have that. I am going to take mine down flush and deal with the repercussions if/when they arise. It will look a lot nicer.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ItemFile...s/LL1196BP.pdf
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  #28  
Old September 27th, 2016, 10:53 AM
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I really wish that they would make this same style for a soft top. The L188 needs the bulk or at least a portion of it, which would mean that I would have to use one of the half-assed MUD UK kit.
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  #29  
Old September 27th, 2016, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmgcny View Post
I really wish that they would make this same style for a soft top. The L188 needs the bulk or at least a portion of it, which would mean that I would have to use one of the half-assed MUD UK kit.
I have been dealing with Lilli @ Safety Devices who helped clarify some confusing areas of the instructions (for future buyers my suggestions have been integrated in the instructions now, so please email them for an updated copy if you get a cage). They just responded to me about something and in my response, I asked if they could integrate the bulkhead bar into the L188 cage. I will let you know what they say.

My external thoughts is that there L188 cages does not come into the tub like mine does, therefore it would not have anything to attach to. It looks like one of the Land Rover/Britpart/P&P kits would work with it. Shouldn't be a big deal and should integrate nicely. Alternatively I know of a few local fabricators in Deer Park or Bohemia that could make it happen.

http://www.safetydevices.com/expedit...+Top/294/1786/

It also looks like they have a padding kit for it, expensive, about $800. The padding kit for my cage was around $180

Adam
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  #30  
Old September 27th, 2016, 08:53 PM
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Getting there... The tight areas are really tough.
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  #31  
Old September 27th, 2016, 09:01 PM
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For the spot welds, I would pry up the aluminium around them and cut a circle with a dremel and a small cut off wheel, and then grind down what was left. I have never been able to drill out a spot weld without going all the way through or close. Even with the correct spot weld cutting bit.
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  #32  
Old September 27th, 2016, 10:19 PM
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She's basically out. I just need to straighten up the edges on floor and wheel wells. Drilling the spot welds/rivet on the side wasn't so bad. Once that was done I was able to pull the panel inward and snip the last piece holding it on.
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  #33  
Old September 27th, 2016, 10:21 PM
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This is the area of most concern. Rivet on top two spot welds below. I'll paint the area once it is all cleaned up.
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  #34  
Old September 27th, 2016, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSanta85 View Post
Getting there... The tight areas are really tough.
What kind of cut off wheel are you using?

Would a plasma cutter work?
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  #35  
Old September 28th, 2016, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmgcny View Post
What kind of cut off wheel are you using? Would a plasma cutter work?
I used an electric cutoff wheel from HF, a Dremel with cutoff wheel, these big metal snips from HF, and a drill. I am going to try to use an angle grinder to get the edges even. I think a plasma cutter would work but overkill and risky if you don't have a lot of precision. Its only aluminum sheet metal, not very hard to cut. I wouldn't use one for it (even if I had one). I got the edges more refined with the snips last night.
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  #36  
Old September 30th, 2016, 12:54 PM
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Finally got the tub all smooth with a flap disc. Cutting the fender lip out definitely requires a lot more effort, but I think it will be worth it. Going to start prepping it tonight so that I can paint it this weekend. So far so good.
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  #37  
Old September 30th, 2016, 01:12 PM
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Awesome work! Going to be a great 90 when done.
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  #38  
Old October 3rd, 2016, 11:06 PM
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New Masai step bumper. Galvanized then powder coated. Very solid construction.
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  #39  
Old October 3rd, 2016, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSanta85 View Post
Finally got the tub all smooth with a flap disc. Cutting the fender lip out definitely requires a lot more effort, but I think it will be worth it. Going to start prepping it tonight so that I can paint it this weekend. So far so good.


Are you painting yourself?
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  #40  
Old October 4th, 2016, 12:44 AM
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This has got to be one of the cleanest 25+ year old trucks I've seen. Good job on being patient enough to find the right one. If you keep up the good work, it will be just about as nice as any NAS 90 SW.
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