1991 Defender 110 SW - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 10th, 2018, 07:56 AM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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1991 Defender 110 SW

Hey all, I wanted to start a thread as I begin work on my 110. Yesterday I began the body-off process and today I will hopefully get to the point of lifting the body off.

I’ll post photos as I go.
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  #2  
Old March 10th, 2018, 07:58 AM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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Is there no way to post photos from your phone? Has to be done from a computer?
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  #3  
Old March 10th, 2018, 09:22 AM
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Brian
86 D110 SW
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Originally Posted by MiamiDefender View Post
Is there no way to post photos from your phone? Has to be done from a computer?


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  #4  
Old March 10th, 2018, 11:27 AM
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GynormousMellon
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Dave
89 D110 exMOD
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Following this build

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  #5  
Old March 12th, 2018, 03:15 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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The day I took delivery a few months ago and body separation this weekend
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  #6  
Old March 12th, 2018, 03:18 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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The steel rails that run underneath both sides of the body have these tabs that tuck in between seat boxes. Does anyone know if these slide right out after unbolting or are they attached to something else up in there?
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  #7  
Old March 16th, 2018, 02:51 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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Lifted the engine and transmission out last night, frame is heading to the sand blaster this weekend!
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  #8  
Old March 23rd, 2018, 02:33 AM
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Jesus
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nice looking build
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  #9  
Old March 23rd, 2018, 03:17 AM
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KGH
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#1-'13 110SW,#2-'87 127,#3-'12 LR4
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Originally Posted by MiamiDefender View Post
Lifted the engine and transmission out last night, frame is heading to the sand blaster this weekend!
Think about having frame galvanised. Even with FL weather, it will rust. It will also increase value of truck.
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  #10  
Old March 23rd, 2018, 10:54 AM
Vedrover
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Alex
1988 Land Rover 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiamiDefender View Post
The steel rails that run underneath both sides of the body have these tabs that tuck in between seat boxes. Does anyone know if these slide right out after unbolting or are they attached to something else up in there?
Provided I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing, these are the "nut plates" (MUC9110 superceded to LR016715) in the B-posts which the second row door bottom hinges screw into (see page 793 of the LR Workshop Manual). They are meant to come out, but, because the area is a great dirt/moisture trap, they typically rust in solid and just stay attached, when you unbolt and remove the hinges on the other side. If you decide to replace the sill rails and repair the B-posts, get new ones from LR or make them from Stainless Steel.

------ Follow up post added March 23rd, 2018 09:02 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by KGH View Post
Think about having frame galvanised. Even with FL weather, it will rust. It will also increase value of truck.
And if you do go Galvy, make sure you do Acid Dipping first. Caustic bath that parts go through prior to galvanizing, doesn't remove much on the inside of the box frame, so you'll have Rover chrome on the outside and rust on the inside.

Hard to find acid baths large enough for a 110 frame nowadays, you'll need to call around, and and ask them for the size of their bath (width/length/depth). If they can't fit the frame in one piece, they still might be able to double-dip it - treat front half first, then flip it over over and treat the rear half.

When I did my frame, I had it cut in half (because of how I was repairing it, not so that it could fit inside an acid bath, of course ), and even after sitting in an acid bath for over a week and a half, it still had some crap inside the frame boxes, although, overall it came out pretty clean.
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  #11  
Old March 23rd, 2018, 01:33 PM
Stealthsr71
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Jeff Innes
1991 Defender 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KGH View Post
Think about having frame galvanised. Even with FL weather, it will rust. It will also increase value of truck.
Who can do this in Florida? I have my bulkhead pulled, and I think my chassis is in pretty good shape to just be stripped and dipped. But I also wonder the cost is to have this acid cleaned, hot dipped, freight and logistics involved vs just buying a Richards from RN.
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  #12  
Old March 23rd, 2018, 03:09 PM
Vedrover
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Alex
1988 Land Rover 110
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Originally Posted by Stealthsr71 View Post
Who can do this in Florida?.... But I also wonder the cost is to have this acid cleaned, hot dipped, freight and logistics involved vs just buying a Richards from RN.
Can't help you with finding the location, but cost-wise, for me it was approximately $300 for an acid dip and another $400 or even less (I galvanized a bunch of parts) to galvanize the frame.

Cheaper than painting it, let alone buying new galvanized chassis. I was hauling it behind my truck in my small 8' utility trailer (not great but works) and loaded it on/off myself, so that keeps the costs down.
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  #13  
Old April 2nd, 2018, 08:01 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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Before and after sandblasting


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  #14  
Old April 2nd, 2018, 08:03 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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My first time welding. Definitely not pretty but I think it works


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  #15  
Old April 2nd, 2018, 08:08 PM
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Looks great! Coat it quickly.. the humidity down there will flash rust this thing in no time.
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