1989 110 19J to Defender 200TDI Swap and ETC. - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old April 12th, 2016, 10:16 AM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
probably the synchros and bearings in the tranny, clutch and rebuild the turbo.
Got rebuilt LT77 from Ashcroft and LT230 from Disco with lesser milege.

Allisport VNT is replacing the stock turbo.

Anything else I should be doing on the engine other than getting rid of carbon build up around the rings?

I think I am just going to dunk the piston head (without removing the rings) on the Chem tool chemical bath and let them sit. Is this a bad idea? Or Should I replace the rings?
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  #62  
Old April 12th, 2016, 10:30 AM
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Life has a way of exposing the weakest link. What is the mechanical condition of the current set up.
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  #63  
Old April 12th, 2016, 10:38 AM
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'40, it was running fine. Just didn't have the get up and go.

I really want to do the brake lines again. What is the tubing size for these rovers?
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  #64  
Old April 12th, 2016, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post

I think I am just going to dunk the piston head (without removing the rings) on the Chem tool chemical bath and let them sit. Is this a bad idea? Or Should I replace the rings?

Rings are cheap. And if pistons are out... will never be easier.
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  #65  
Old April 12th, 2016, 12:57 PM
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Michael
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Originally Posted by speedpin View Post
Rings are cheap. And if pistons are out... will never be easier.


My experience with piston rings was me messing with weedwhacker 2stroke engine which I rebuilt back in high school years for fun which actually ran for about 10 years afterwards.


Where would you get the rings which one? I see different specs on these...
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  #66  
Old April 12th, 2016, 01:01 PM
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead-36239.html
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  #67  
Old April 12th, 2016, 08:33 PM
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Should I replace the piston all together while I am at it???


Shoot, I am already this deep in this engine, should I bore this out a bit and use new oversized pistons?


Quote:
Hi Michael
If you are fitting new rings you need to establish the current piston size and then fit the corresponding ring set size. Ie if std piston, fit std rings, if 020 pistons, 020 ring set etc. The piston size should be marked on the top of the piston itself.


I trust the above explains.


RegardsFrida TurnerTurner Engineering
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  #68  
Old April 12th, 2016, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Should I replace the piston all together while I am at it???


Shoot, I am already this deep in this engine, should I bore this out a bit and use new oversized pistons?


[/B][/I][/COLOR]
Depends if there is cylinder wear as I didn't read all the pages.
You'll want cross hatching with a hone and if there is no excess clearance you can reuse the pistons and fit new rings, but if there is wear, oversize is paramount.
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  #69  
Old April 12th, 2016, 09:41 PM
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Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Depends if there is cylinder wear as I didn't read all the pages.
You'll want cross hatching with a hone and if there is no excess clearance you can reuse the pistons and fit new rings, but if there is wear, oversize is paramount.
On post 11, you can see the cross hatch patterns. If you can give me your inspection on them, that would be much appreciated.

I haven't taken the pistons out yet. I will get that done sometime this week. Hoping to drop the block off get the top deck skimmed may be a thou or two.

Should I replace con rod bearings? Oil pump gears?

One last question, what RTV brand do you guys use?
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  #70  
Old April 17th, 2016, 10:14 PM
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Michael
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Completely stripped the engine.

What do you think of the wear on the conrod bearing? Seems like the coating has stripped. Crankshaft has no damages.

Alright, what should I replace at this point?

I am going to have the block bored for a new set of pistons.

I am going to have about 1/1000 skimmed on the top deck. I have 0.6mm piston protrusion at the highest spot. That gives me 0.2mm till 3 hole headgasket.

I am thinking about getting new bearings for the crankshafts and conrods. Should I or should I not?
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  #71  
Old April 17th, 2016, 10:29 PM
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You always replace bearings.
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  #72  
Old April 17th, 2016, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You always replace bearings.
Should I just polish the crank or remachine it and get undersized bearings?
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  #73  
Old April 17th, 2016, 10:49 PM
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It needs to be inspected. The machine shop can decide what is needed if anything.
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  #74  
Old April 17th, 2016, 10:59 PM
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Michael
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
It needs to be inspected. The machine shop can decide what is needed if anything.
I just wanted to make sure I know something before going in.

I will be dropping these off sometime this week and hope to get the engines bundled up by the end of next week.
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  #75  
Old April 22nd, 2016, 09:18 PM
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Michael
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Not much of an update. Stripped block has been dropped off to a machine shop.

Along with the block, pistons with conrods, crankshaft and all the braces for the bearings.

I think I found an amazing machine shop in Seattle but the result is to be seen. I have not been able to find a machine shop here that didn't give me the vib, that they are all business. This one just felt right. The shop owner showed me around all the machines he had, and the projects he was working on. I just love it when people enjoy their job.

Up front pricing, two seaseoned folks running the shop and judging from all the junk they had, I could tell that they have been doing this awhile.

Hope to get the 200TDI buttoned up by next weekend if Turner gets me all the parts mid week this coming week.

Transfercase showed up. I just gotta figure out who to buy the frame from. It seems as though every vendor is looking at 3 months.......
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  #76  
Old April 25th, 2016, 08:27 PM
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Just ordered these for the engine rebuild. Decided to go with 20 over stock pistons.


It never seizes to amaze me how much time and money this thing takes. LOL.
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  #77  
Old April 26th, 2016, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Just ordered these for the engine rebuild. Decided to go with 20 over stock pistons. It never seizes to amaze me how much time and money this thing takes. LOL.
ha! I've felt your pain. Took a little while for me to stop obsessing over the time as well as the nickel and dining. But in the end it's yours and you'll know it far better than a soup to nuts kit you could have purchased.
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  #78  
Old April 26th, 2016, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
On post 11, you can see the cross hatch patterns. If you can give me your inspection on them, that would be much appreciated.

I haven't taken the pistons out yet. I will get that done sometime this week. Hoping to drop the block off get the top deck skimmed may be a thou or two.

Should I replace con rod bearings? Oil pump gears?

One last question, what RTV brand do you guys use?
You'll need to mic the cylinder and if it is within specs, then the cross hatch pattern is most likely the original factory marks.

If the bore is larger than STD, more than likely someone ran a dingle berry hone up and down the cylinders to help seat new rings. In this case you'll want to fit oversize pistons.

I use grey silicone mostly.
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  #79  
Old April 27th, 2016, 01:24 AM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
You'll need to mic the cylinder and if it is within specs, then the cross hatch pattern is most likely the original factory marks.

I use grey silicone mostly.
Decided to go with oversized pistons and take guess work out if the current bore is within spec. It turned out the cyl4 with no compression not only had blown head gasket but also had stuck rings.

This is going to be the "first" and "last" frame up rebuild that I will ever do despite I am having a lotta fun. Just cannot pour this kind of time into anything anymore.

Been told by the machine shop that my crankshaft is fine and the conrods are fine as well. Bearings and the Pistons are going to be replaced.
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  #80  
Old October 16th, 2016, 12:08 AM
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Michael
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Back from the dead.

After 6 months in the machine shop, I finally got the block back.

LOL. Granted a few sets of couple weeks between parts orders, but it still took forever!

Freeze plugs replaced, top deck milled with piston clearance at TDC protrusion in mind.

Main bearings, conrod beraings replaced, crankshaft polished.

Pistons replaced with 0.020 oversized after overboring. Piston weights balanced.

Oil jet bushings replaced.

All the factory tolerance were met per the machine shop. They did the short block.

Rebuilt head will be installed using new head bolts and zero hole gasket. Just about everything on the engine will be renewed except for the oil pump.

I just mounted it on the engine stand.

What color would paint your engine block? I am looking for objective reasons for for the color selection.

Any other advices or tips?
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