I'm actually getting started on this project now, and I'll keep up with little bits of updates here, along with questions, and rants. I am also posting all my pics on Flickr to a project album. https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmbailey/sets/72157655095780670
Here she is, pulling in after the last drive for quite some time. Solid truck with lots going for it, but since it's going to be my daily driver and family overlander, I want to fix some things. I'm not looking to turn it into a Puma clone, but I'm going to do what I can within a reasonable budget to make it a "nice truck".
Saudi Spec Bulkhead and Dash to NAS (virtually the same. NAS has an extra switch or two)
Refurb engine bay with paint and noise abatement magic
Proper Tdi gauges
Refurb interior with Rhino Liner or the like
Raptor instrument binnacle
Interior/Exterior lighting
Ham
etc...
The Future:
Rear cargo area converted for long-term camping.
Roof Rack
Winch/Bumper
Refurb axles, suspension, etc...
Rear tire carrier
Short list of a lot of work.
For instance, after about 10 hours of work I have not found one bolt I could reuse. 7 bolts broken, 5 cut. I have yet to remove a wing... it's going to be a long project.
I thank you all in advance, but especially Ship's Mechanical and the locals who have already given me eyes-on input and help.
Photos of the "new" bulkhead and dash (Thanks Zack & Rovers North!) and of the truck as it sits in my garage as of now.
QUESTION: How do I get this bolt loose? Top bolt under the wing along the edge of the bulkhead. Of course, it's the last thing I have to get to remove the wing. And of course it is rusted solid. It stripped almost immediately.
Advice: get a set of six point impact sockets, several extensions, and an electric impact wrench. Get a wobble fitting too for good measure.
Most of these stuck bolts just need a good whack to get loose, and the nice thing is that the impact driver will rip the head off the bolt before it rounds it off.
If you're going to have to drill out a fastener, it's much better with the part off.
Worth the $$ to purchase quality impact extensions. Else, on the big jobs, when really needing all the oomph available, you could fall short because the twist in the extension is robbing you of ft-lbs.
Funny is on the flip side, the mfrs are now branding these as torque limiting extensions... and charging more for it of course.
For now you've got a lot of other things to worry about but before you put the stock fusebox back in I recommend replacing it with the newer type that uses the smaller fuses. The stock fuse box is garbage. I have the cover off permanently so that I can jiggle the ones that don't connect properly. I did get a painless water proof one with prewired hot and constant circuits to replace it with but there's also the less costly option of putting a new block in the old housing for a more stock look.
Jeff - I might get it done by then, but I doubt it.
The plan is that I'm going to strip it down, get all the parts cleaned and prepped, then I'm delivering it to Ship's to actually put the engine and transmission in. I may have him go as far as getting the engine running.
After that, I'm taking it back to put it all back together. Several parts are going to need blasting, almost all parts are going to be repainted before reinstalling.
My main worry really is all the wiring and electrical. Would appreciate input on techniques for what I have to accomplish.
I'm going with the hack saw approach since I actually did get the seam to open up a bit. But after 30 minutes of hacking I've got nothing to show for it. Not even to the bolt yet since I have to cut through the speed nut clip thingy.
I cut mine with a cut-off disc or a sawzall, but I had to luxury of being able to cut into my bulkhead ever so slightly as I was replacing the door posts. I did one with a hack saw up high and I think it took several beers to get through it. I took breaks and did other things when I got impatient. Worst job is cutting through bolts in awkward positions by hand.
Got that last bolt out with an extractor type socket. Worked well in the end. Then after finally getting the wing off, I was able to explore a little more. I now know why the door hinges won't come off.... there is no screw to turn. Whatever is left of those big fat door screws must be rusted solid to the speed nuts because the pillar is literally half full of mud and rust and there are no screws visible inside the pillar. Harsh.... harsh..... and the 120 degree garage isn't helping....
Awesome! Glad to see you've got your project going too. Sounds like you're getting off to the same start as I have. Lots of rusty bolts lol. We finally got the last of the broken bolts off my chassis.
Maybe next week when it cools off a bit (80's lol). I haven't been working on it much with the heat. There's not a lot to see right now though. I'm trying to get the chassis ready for the stripper and galvanizer. After that I can start putting things back together.
Christ power from the coil direct to a lamp ? Cut those wires. The power to the coil is not fused, your fire potential was very high. The design of the defender wiring harness is such that there is additional capacity to add turn repeaters or parking lamps on the wing by simply plugging them in behind the headlamps. Amazing
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. He used an overly large wire for this. And he did go through a relay -- it's a relay.... no, I just need to post a pic.... I don't get it.
Now that I'm pulling parts apart, I'm interested in seeing what the heck is going on with this, so I'll track down where each of these wires go.
Oh, and what you say about putting them in behind the headlamps -- that's exactly what I would do, and what I've done with lamps on previous vehicles.... works fine, easy.
That's what is confusing me even more. OK, sure wire your own complete circuit (even if you don't need to) but he seems to have not only wired it on it's own, but it's all wired into the main harness with those bullet connector sockets you are mentioning! ...glad I'm pulling this all apart to see what crap is inside.
This is a bit in the future, but I had all sorts of good ideas about where I was going to put all the cool Tdi gauges and such when I was going to convert to standard dash. But now I'm keeping the NAS version, so.... where have you all done boost, EGT, and other gauges that I will be wanting to add? The Raptor dash doesn't really work now.
QUESTION: This is a bit in the future, but I had all sorts of good ideas about where I was going to put all the cool Tdi gauges and such when I was going to convert to standard dash. But now I'm keeping the NAS version, so.... where have you all done boost, EGT, and other gauges that I will be wanting to add? The Raptor dash doesn't really work now.
Ready to do just that but was wondering what the aftermath will be -- will the screw come loose with the speed nut? Or is it the type that you don't have to worry about that with?
I've got a dash and bulkhead currently on the truck with complete wiring set up that is in OK to good condition as far as can be seen right now. The wiring on the replacement dash is slightly different because some switches are in different places and such, but some of the gauge cluster wires were simply cut, and there are lots of just single dead ends here and there.
How successful am I going to be if, hypothetically, I put the replacement dash in as is, and just plug things in?
In reality, I want to take the whole thing apart and refurb, but I'm just wondering how many of the wiring harnesses, say from the wings, will plug right into the NAS dash? Is this a dream?
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