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  #161  
Old August 1st, 2016, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
OK, so I can finally say I'm on the way to having this truck up and driving soon. Won't be "done" but will be usable. Busy summer has meant I've only worked on it about 10 hours over the past 1.5 months. One of my goals with this is to try to make it quieter and cooler than from factory, so I've been using some sound deadening material here and there and all over in the hidden places where it never was from factory. I don't want this thing to be a "pretty" truck, because even though I was not afraid to get the Disco dirty and scratched, I think I would be hesitant if it were a fully restored mall crawler. But I'm taking my time to try to do a lot of little things better. One of the things I did today was to finally put to use a heat shield I've had in a box for years. I think it came from a DI...?? Anyway, it happens to fit really well between the frame and the bell housing, right over the top of the exhaust pipe as it goes under the corner of the footwell! I made up a bracket for the front end, and used an existing hole in the frame from the old V8 cross-member. Perfect! Hovers just over the exhaust, right where the foot is always getting warmest!
Got me thinking now - Thanks 👍
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  #162  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 10:12 PM
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Driver's seat and footwell all but finalized. It is all easy work, but it just takes forever to do each little thing -- paint, edges sealed, get hardware reinstalled... Etc...

Figured out a modified way to do the vent that runs behind the instruments. The plastic tube that was original just would not go back in properly. Too many things just slightly out of alignment compared to what they were. But the mod will probably actually be better than original.

More soundproofing and heat proofing.

I will be taking it for it's first Tdi drive this evening if I get the time. ...no doors yet. ....or wings. ........or seat belts.
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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #163  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 12:13 AM
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OK. I need some help here. I took it for a test drive down my street. It is a 600 foot climb up a 3rd to 2nd gear hill. I got the engine just a bit warm before taking it out. Here is what I noticed:
  1. Seems to grind a bit when shifting.
  2. Have to put clutch at least 3/4 of the way down to get to shift, then very quickly engaged when pulling foot back up.
  3. The engine quickly got warm. Started smoking off the mid-upper area. Not sure what this was. But freaked me out.
  4. Oil is spewing from the oil filter area. I don't know if it is leaking out of where the filter attaches, or some other spot. It is behind the filter, so I cannot see. I lost about 1/2 cup of oil in one mile.
  5. There seems to be a leak in the fuel pump. Diesel is on the outside of the pump, along the vertical seam to the rear of the pump. Can't tell where origin is.
  6. The diesel clack seems loud.
  7. There is a very loud metallic knock coming from the front of the engine. Sounds as if someone is ringing a bell. Front cover/pulleys area.
Please tell me I have some minor adjusting to do, even if any of this sounds bad. Otherwise... I may have to put this project to bed...
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  #164  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 06:10 AM
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Dude, I hate to hear this. I know it is a pretty big let down.

I looked back thru your prior posts and I see video of a mechanic starting the engine and it running. And in another post I think you mention you drove it on to the trailer. Have you done anything to it sense? I can't tell that you have but that was like six months ago.
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  #165  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 10:41 AM
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Yeah. Done a lot since, but very slowly. (Im slow, and I only get a little time here and there.)

If all were good, I'd be driving and finishing up instrument installs by the end of this week. Don't think that is going to happen now!
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  #166  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 12:23 PM
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Impossible to say from such limited and vague descriptors.

As far as oil leak goes, should be easy to wipe everything down and with engine @ idle see where the oil comes from.

The "top" of the engine smoke could be an exhaust leak, oil or spray lube on the manifold burning off, crank case fumes from the cyclone separator. You dont say what color the smoke is, how it smells etc. If you want help, you need to be more specific.
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  #167  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 12:40 PM
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Sorry. I think it was grey smoke. And I don't know what it smelled like, could have been anything. The bonnet was removed, and smoke was just kind of here and there and everywhere.

Oil is coming from high enough up and behind the filter that I can't tell if it is the filter itself, or some fitting against the engine, etc...

The ringing knock I heard was during idle. Seemed to be from front. None of the visible pulleys looked loose or off center. But have not done close check.

I'm sorry for panicking, and I thank you all for the responses. Sort of reeling from the realization that the 15 years of savings and dreaming for this project are gone, and I am now a long way from having finished what I was planning on driving this week. This terrible test drive came an hour after I dropped $20k on emergency repairs to our roof -- I thought it would make me feel better.

I have some big decisions to make....
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  #168  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 12:47 PM
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This is getting confusing. Do we need 4 threads on this?
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  #169  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 01:04 PM
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too soon to make an offer on the parts?
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  #170  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
This terrible test drive came an hour after I dropped $20k on emergency repairs to our roof -- I thought it would make me feel better.

I have some big decisions to make....
Wow. We have a roofer on the beach house right now installing a completely new standing seam hand crimped 200 mph, guaranteed hurricane proof , metal roof. That also included doing some architectural changes/ carpentry to the eves. You must have a very large roof........
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  #171  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 01:29 PM
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LOL, I have lots of parts. Was waiting till I was done with project to start selling.

Yes, it is a new roof, some rafters, all new plywood, other....

It just sucks that stuff like that is now becoming a part of the Rover issues.

As far as the engine is concerned. From what I can see on my receipts and on the truck, all hoses and seals have been replaced. The timing belt was done with a full new kit. Amounts to about $1500 worth in parts alone. All professionally installed.

This was cold, without load: https://flic.kr/p/GBU7eJ

I'm not sure where to start with this. Any ideas on what I should do first?
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  #172  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 03:25 PM
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I think maybe the ringing knock I was hearing is the most important thing right now. Just to make sure that the timing isn't off or whatever.

It is a new timing belt kit, installed by Ship's. But I just want to double check. So is there a way to confirm timing without taking the cover off?

I think I'm right in being able to confirm that the injector pump is correct by going to the notch on the flywheel, then confirming that the injector pump slot is also lined up. Yes/No?
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  #173  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 03:30 PM
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You might check out the 300tdi youtubes out there. I find them helpful for the basics at least.
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  #174  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 03:34 PM
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Yeah, I like watching them. Problem is I often find that the "map" in my brain for how to do what they are showing has blank spots that don't seem to be answered without being able to directly ask a question.

i.e., I think timing for the Tdi is much more simple than with a gas engine. I watch the videos, look at the manuals, but I always feel like I'm missing something, so I am unsure if I should start and risk messing it up further. Also, I never have everything I need on hand -- new gaskets, crush washers, whatever. There's always something missing that would make it foolish of me to start.
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  #175  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 03:45 PM
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How about the mechanic that set this engine up, can he help out?
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  #176  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 05:01 PM
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I'm in contact with him, but it means a long flat bed tow to get there.

Here is an example of what I mean when I say the videos and publications leave me hanging.

Trying to confirm that the timing on the fuel pump is set right. All videos and manuals show that the pin in the fuel pump slides into the slot when it is at around the 10 o'clock position if the slot on the flywheel is centered up.

What I found is that when the notch on the flywheel is centered, I can slide the pin in at the same spot where it should. But it also slides in at other points.... so....? I'm using the butt end of a 9.5mm drill bit. And I made sure I wasn't at the 180 out position on the flywheel.
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  #177  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 06:27 PM
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Update: I ran it in the garage a bit after confirming that at least the injector pump is in sync with the flywheel. I revved it a few times, and let it run till it got warm. I also managed to hook up the EGT, Water Temp, and Oil PSI temporarily so I can check vitals as well as possible.
  1. About 45 psi constant while in the garage and revving. No response from EGT, but would not expect one. And water temp came up slowly, but never got to anything you would call hot.
  2. I think the oil leak is under the two-bolt flange where the oil cooler line comes into the side of the filter assembly.
  3. I could not see any fuel leak from injector pump. But I had not seen one previous to running the vehicle, either.
  4. No smoke off engine, but not very warm, and not under load.
  5. There was bluish grey smoke from exhaust when I revved.
I think I will need to take it for an actual drive to see any repeat of what I saw yesterday.
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  #178  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 06:41 PM
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Here's a horrible video of the test today. Note the smoke from exhaust at the end, I'd like your opinions: https://flic.kr/p/KNCd78
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  #179  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 08:22 PM
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What to do about this? New seals.

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  #180  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 08:49 PM
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What to do about this? New seals.
Dam! True WTF moment.
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