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  #81  
Old August 10th, 2015, 12:53 PM
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Jason Rose
1983 110 County 200tdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Id do the springs last. They are easy enough to do later, and you can redo your truck, drive it for a bit and then decide what will work best. Because builds always take on a life of their own, your can get the right spring for the finished truck.

-Jeff
Good advice. You might find your current springs work just fine for what you want.
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  #82  
Old August 10th, 2015, 04:29 PM
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That makes sense, but I was hoping to refurb this whole area while I have it all apart. I need to dismantle the suspension to do it properly.
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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #83  
Old August 11th, 2015, 09:24 PM
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So... What is going on here?

Both sides are like this. Does not look factory. And the white is some kind of calk. This is under front seats.

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  #84  
Old August 12th, 2015, 11:40 AM
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Any ideas?
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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #85  
Old August 12th, 2015, 11:46 AM
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Looks like some UK botch job at frame repair to pass MOT? But I'm on phone. Tough to see it big.
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  #86  
Old August 12th, 2015, 11:48 AM
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I have come across some oxidation that can get to a white tacky bar soap consistency...
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  #87  
Old August 12th, 2015, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Also a good time to see if you want the stock towers with the double studded shocks, or the D2 towers with the stud on the bottom and the eyelet on the top.

If you go with new, Id get them dipped.

-Jeff
Or just get the galvanized ones already available
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  #88  
Old August 12th, 2015, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
Looks like some UK botch job at frame repair to pass MOT? But I'm on phone. Tough to see it big.
Well, it's on both sides, same patch, same spot. Only on top of frame. The sides look perfect. The weld and patch seem OK, not factory, but not HORRIBLE!! Just odd.
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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #89  
Old August 12th, 2015, 08:53 PM
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Pm'd you.
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  #90  
Old August 17th, 2015, 01:01 PM
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How do you get the master from the pedal lever arm thing? None of my four types of spanners can reach in there.

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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #91  
Old August 17th, 2015, 06:41 PM
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Bump. I've got this thing on the bench, and the sand blaster is waiting.
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  #92  
Old August 17th, 2015, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
How do you get the master from the pedal lever arm thing? None of my four types of spanners can reach in there.
13mm
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  #93  
Old August 17th, 2015, 08:02 PM
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Yeah..... But it turns the shaft with it and the other nut cannot be secured.
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  #94  
Old August 17th, 2015, 08:40 PM
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Yeah..... But it turns the shaft with it and the other nut cannot be secured.
Craftsman 13mm fits on both sides
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  #95  
Old August 17th, 2015, 08:47 PM
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Well, that at least confirms that I'm not going out of my mind.
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  #96  
Old August 19th, 2015, 01:43 PM
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So here's where it stands now. More pics in the link below.

I'm kinda stuck though, don't know what/how to do what is next. I would be prepping parts, but I can't get my blaster to work. Was doing fine, everything just stopped working in the middle of project.

Anyway, I'll be turning it over to Ship's Mechanical to do the actual engine/transmission install after the ABFM. Really just kind of... in... limbo.... I guess?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmba...57655095780670
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  #97  
Old August 19th, 2015, 10:55 PM
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An example of restoring a part:
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  #98  
Old August 20th, 2015, 12:33 AM
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Very nice. So to what address do we send our parts??? Do you have a loading dock?
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  #99  
Old August 26th, 2015, 11:22 PM
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FINALLY got back onto this project after stalling for a week and a half because all I need to do now is refurb all the bits to bolt everything back together once the engine is in.... Problem was that after pulling it out of storage, getting it to work well for a few test bits, the sand blaster simply quit.

I replaced a few of the valves and changed the fittings on the hopper feed. Then switched over to almond shells to work on the large soft panels of the flooring and seat box. Nothing worked. I tried three different grits, then tried glass beads. Everything instantly clogged up and stopped the whole system.

So in frustration I pulled it all apart a third time and just decided I might as well try the cheapo stuff, instead of all the $25-$30 dollars per 25 lbs I was spending on media. I went to Home Depot, got 50 lbs of sandbox sand for $4.

Strained it a few times, dumped it in the hopper -- bingo. Works better than ever before. I am working on a gravel drive, so all my un-caught over spray just blends in. It recycles easily. and it is hard enough to do the job quickly, but isn't digging into the aluminum.

I'll have all parts blasted and ready for primer by tomorrow evening... unless I do something stupid...
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  #100  
Old September 12th, 2015, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Fearnofish View Post
Very nice. So to what address do we send our parts??? Do you have a loading dock?
NOOOO! Stay away, no more parts!

I'm ready to paint the seat box. But I have a few questions. Most of the paint really stayed in place when I passed over it with the blaster, so I really just focused on the edges, any corroded parts, and any corners, etc... The interior of the tool box has a bunch of putty like goop used to seal it, stuff that is too soft to blast, to tucked away to worry about how it looks, it is still doing it's job... I suppose I can try to paint over it, or I'll have to probably cut and get patches welded in.

QUESTION: What type of primer? I have zinc chromate, the stuff I used to use on airplanes, so I figure it must be good enough for a Rover seat box. But when it comes to putting on a truck bed liner of some kind, what should I really be looking for?

As far as the liner brand. I could go with Line-x, but I could also save some money.... So I have been trying to research and have come up with Por15's liner or Hippo Liner.

Por15 has always impressed me, so I kind of lean that way. But Hippo Liner is a two part epoxy that seems like it might be worth it if I'm opting out of sending this to Line-X... and who knows if Line-X will even be able to deal with it in current condition?

Ideas?
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