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  #61  
Old August 5th, 2015, 07:59 PM
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wanabewheelin
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Michael Sword
1989 110 200TDI, RHD
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I soaked mine with penetrating oil and then let it sit for a day or so, they came off easy enough, nuts were accessible from under the truck, hit them also. As you should be replacing with new hardware don't be afraid to use method described above or even a chisel to remove the rusted ones.
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  #62  
Old August 5th, 2015, 08:14 PM
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I had to grind off the bracket to body bolts, the larger bolt after a few doses of penetrating oil and light heat came free.
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  #63  
Old August 5th, 2015, 09:13 PM
RBBailey
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The large belt bolt is in the way of the three bolts left. (Unsure how the two vertical bolts are reached from the back, but I'll figure that out later.)

So I have to get the large belt bolt off. It is 18mm, or the like. But a socket does not fit on it because it is just up against the door too much.
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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #64  
Old August 5th, 2015, 10:01 PM
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how do the nuts on the bottom look?

I removed my large seat belt bolt with a flat wrench. The 12 point side should work.
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  #65  
Old August 5th, 2015, 10:43 PM
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Bottom nuts are fine, they break or come off, but I can't see the vertical nut/bolt combo, and can't get to them without getting the bit strap bolt undone. I tried a 12" spanner. They are soaking more tonight....
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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #66  
Old August 6th, 2015, 12:58 PM
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Michael Sword
1989 110 200TDI, RHD
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Take a pic of what you are referring to, if it isn't in your pic above. I used a long extension with socket on one, but believe one was obstructed so you may need a universal. Get a light under there so you can see what you are looking at, ensure it isn't covered by mud.

The nuts on mine were actually in better shape than the bolt heads which looked similar to yours. I replaced all with new hardware. I'll try to take pics later.
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  #67  
Old August 6th, 2015, 01:54 PM
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Looking at the photo above, the bolt that is on the vertical surface -- I don't know A: How to get to it without taking the big bolt off that is holding the belt in place. And B: how to get to the back of that bolt once I can access it.

The big bolt that holds the belt in place is stuck, have not been able to get it out.

The small bolts on the floor are easy enough to get once I get the big bolt out of the way.

NEW QUESTION: What am I missing about getting the hand brake line out of the seat box? I thought I'd see two nuts there, one to hold in place, the other to turn. But there is only one nut, and only smooth surfaces so that when I turn the one nut, the entire cable also turns. This won't work for trying to remove it. Can't figure what I'm not getting about that.
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  #68  
Old August 6th, 2015, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Looking at the photo above, the bolt that is on the vertical surface -- I don't know A: How to get to it without taking the big bolt off that is holding the belt in place. And B: how to get to the back of that bolt once I can access it.

The big bolt that holds the belt in place is stuck, have not been able to get it out.

The small bolts on the floor are easy enough to get once I get the big bolt out of the way.

NEW QUESTION: What am I missing about getting the hand brake line out of the seat box? I thought I'd see two nuts there, one to hold in place, the other to turn. But there is only one nut, and only smooth surfaces so that when I turn the one nut, the entire cable also turns. This won't work for trying to remove it. Can't figure what I'm not getting about that.
Pull the seat belt plate bolt first (Pneumatic impact will free it) - then heat up or snap off the remaining body and b-pillar bolts.

Handbrake cable retainer bolt is loose or rusted in place? Under seatbox clip removed? Which handle type?

Offer still stands if you want to come up with a list of questions and a camera to snap photos on any of the project trucks in the shop...
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  #69  
Old August 6th, 2015, 03:08 PM
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Thanks. I can't fit any socket on the seat belt bolt as the door frame is in the way. I got one side off by cutting, having to ruin the belt, but.... The bolt on the vertical broke off, so I'm not sure how I'll get a new seat belt bracket in.

I've done a little counting, and about 80% of the bolts are breaking or have to be cut. I have two that are reusable from entire tear down so far. Oddly though, I cannot see any frame damage, and all body damage is superficial, or contained in the bulkhead, which I have a replacement for anyway.
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  #70  
Old August 6th, 2015, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Thanks. I can't fit any socket on the seat belt bolt as the door frame is in the way. I got one side off by cutting, having to ruin the belt, but.... The bolt on the vertical broke off, so I'm not sure how I'll get a new seat belt bracket in.

I've done a little counting, and about 80% of the bolts are breaking or have to be cut. I have two that are reusable from entire tear down so far. Oddly though, I cannot see any frame damage, and all body damage is superficial, or contained in the bulkhead, which I have a replacement for anyway.
You should be planning on breaking all the bolts and be surprised when they come off without any drama… Much healthier mindset when digging into a well worn ROW truck.

Replacing the seat belts is probably a good plan anyway - the bits you want to salvage are all the brackets and mounts - these are usually LR specific parts and can add up quickly. Dip & strip, clean, blast, paint and cure as much as possible. Plan to replace all the hardware - most of it can be sourced through a good MRO supplier - some items are unique to the vehicle and you may have to bite the bullet and replace them. DONT skip the little bits that are difficult to access when the truck is apart or you will have to go back at them later (cursing yourself)

Hopefully the lesson is that every new bolt going into the rebuild (that time will eventually come) needs to be plated or painted, and anti-sieze paste or thread locker should be liberally applied.


Make sure you come out to ABFM at least and we can chat

Brian
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  #71  
Old August 6th, 2015, 04:59 PM
RBBailey
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What would you do now? Can't get the steering wheel of, BTW.

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  #72  
Old August 6th, 2015, 05:18 PM
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Robert Davis
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Remove the nut and wack it upward with a rubber mallet alternating side to side.
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  #73  
Old August 6th, 2015, 05:37 PM
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Yeah, been doing that off and on for a few weeks.......
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  #74  
Old August 6th, 2015, 07:40 PM
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Chris
1985 110 200 Tdi
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I was in the same place about 2 weeks ago. Stay with it...PB Blaster and a couple good whacks on the backside with the mallet and it should pop (remember to keep the bolt loosely on)...ask me how I know.
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  #75  
Old August 8th, 2015, 11:30 AM
RBBailey
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Finally got the steering wheel off. Made my own puller.

I'm looking at the front end of this thing all torn down, an thinking this would be a good time to replace the suspension. My shocks are shot, the springs look horrible with all the flaking and rust, but they still ride well. I believe these are the LR HD's all around, and I like the way the truck sits. Fairly level, and a bit higher than others I've seen. But this is empty.

Now that I'm switching over to the 300Tdi, and planning on sometimes loading the rear down with lots of camping equipment, roof rack, etc....

In my mind I'm thinking the LR HD + OME Shocks.

Any input?
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  #76  
Old August 8th, 2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Finally got the steering wheel off. Made my own puller.

I'm looking at the front end of this thing all torn down, an thinking this would be a good time to replace the suspension. My shocks are shot, the springs look horrible with all the flaking and rust, but they still ride well. I believe these are the LR HD's all around, and I like the way the truck sits. Fairly level, and a bit higher than others I've seen. But this is empty.

Now that I'm switching over to the 300Tdi, and planning on sometimes loading the rear down with lots of camping equipment, roof rack, etc....

In my mind I'm thinking the LR HD + OME Shocks.

Any input?
Good call… Engine weight shifts a bit with the 300 and fresh springs will make a difference - don't neglect the towers at this point either - good time to clean up and protect them if they are in good condition, or replace them if the base has started to separate layers.
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  #77  
Old August 8th, 2015, 10:57 PM
RBBailey
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What would be the practical difference between the Disco towers vs. these -- which appear in good shape, but will need a cleaning and dip or Por15 treatment.

One of the things I don't want is a truck taking a nose dive all the time. So even though I want load capacity for the rear, I want to have it even if possible.
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  #78  
Old August 9th, 2015, 11:43 PM
RBBailey
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Hope I have the cash to order this week, so any input would be GOOD.
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  #79  
Old August 10th, 2015, 12:20 AM
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Hope I have the cash to order this week, so any input would be GOOD.
stock shock towers are good - as are the variety of shocks that fit them… Dive is also a big part spring rate and matching the correct support to weight will get you into the right amount of height, hold, and give.
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  #80  
Old August 10th, 2015, 11:04 AM
RBBailey
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If I'm running LR HD now, like the height, but adding the Tdi and some to the rear, what springs should I look to in order to keep the approximate height I have now?
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