1987 Restoration 90 - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 31st, 2012, 06:30 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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wings

Got both sides fitted mostly still fitting required to get all the parts to go togeather, including a snorkel cuting a hole in the side. The alternator was bolted into place with no bolt in the arm, missing ordered from RN. I did clean it up a bit after this picture. hoses replaced, fan belt to replace. Maybe paint radiator & expansion tank in radiator paint. Meanwhile the rest of the truck is waiting time to finish. Prop shafts, sill protectors, rear windows & door.
fuel fill. Slowly get some room to walk around as parts go on. & come off.
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  #22  
Old August 7th, 2012, 07:40 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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90

Soon I may even put wheels back on this thing that has occupied garage space toooooo long.
Replacement project awaiting.
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  #23  
Old August 7th, 2012, 07:42 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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110

next in Line.
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  #24  
Old August 8th, 2012, 11:53 AM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
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90 is looking nice.

I'd say that's an 200Tdi in the 110? (judging by the intercooler), or maybe a 300
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  #25  
Old August 11th, 2012, 12:19 AM
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jeroen
1997 300 TDI 110
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very nice! Great colour!
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  #26  
Old August 11th, 2012, 01:20 AM
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Jason
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Where did you pick up the bull bar?

Can you post pics of the lift gate mounting when you get there? I've got to figure that out!

Goof luck with the build!
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2003 RR L322
1971 Series IIA
1983 110 SW (Incoming)
1994 D90 ST (PO)
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  #27  
Old August 11th, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Chris
72 + D1 drivetrain
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Subscribed to thread.
Spent a year now collecting parts for my project. As soon as there is room in the shop I get to work. Not aiming for concours truck, rather solidly usable and trail ready.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #28  
Old August 11th, 2012, 05:31 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texrover View Post
Where did you pick up the bull bar?
Lift gate I could only get one side of the fittings, so I bought two thinking I would modify one.
Now I am going with stock door.
Saving lift gate for 110, eventually.
There are two bull bars pictured in this I have used the wraparound on the 90.
That came with a winch bumper from RN.
Saving the camel, stronger one for the 110.
Can you post pics of the lift gate mounting when you get there? I've got to figure that out!
this needs four more characters?
Goof luck with the build!


The following errors occurred with your submission:
The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 4 characters.

------ Follow up post added August 11th, 2012 05:34 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeena river rover View Post
very nice! Great colour!
The color was on a tailgate I bought turned out to be same as xmod paint but with a gloss finish, although PPG got it off a bit on the first gallon. Yes over a gallon of paint it is called practice & learn.
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  #29  
Old August 11th, 2012, 06:14 PM
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texrover
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Jason
71 SIIA, 03 RR, 94 D90 (PO), 83 110
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I've got all the mounting hardware; just need to know how to mount to the top. I'm assuming it would be reinforced somewhere though.

I was going to save my series liftgate for the 110, but I'm between that, using a fiberglass liftgate from a 90, or cutting my rear door in half.

Also possibly buying heated rear glass to fit as well.

I'm thinking your camel bull bar is the one from RN, although I think I might have sourced it cheaper than RN.
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2003 RR L322
1971 Series IIA
1983 110 SW (Incoming)
1994 D90 ST (PO)
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  #30  
Old August 12th, 2012, 08:15 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texrover View Post
I've got all the mounting hardware; just need to know how to mount to the top. I'm assuming it would be reinforced somewhere though.
I found some great information on the liftgate on one of the brit forums pictures & details.


That bull bar was used but still not too bad, built well.
I'm thinking your camel bull bar is the one from RN, although I think I might have sourced it cheaper than RN.
Last but not least rear door/hinges to strip & paint.
This truck took so long the battery I believe since it could not even power glow plugs is gone.
Truck started with 110 battery, newer.
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  #31  
Old September 1st, 2012, 06:28 AM
seaswood
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Craig
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LR Lift Gate

[QUOTE=texrover;366076]I've got all the mounting hardware; just need to know how to mount to the top. I'm assuming it would be reinforced somewhere though.

Here is a copy of the diagram for lift gate.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?ap...ttach_id=20731

It is on LR 4x4.com
& yes the camel bar originally came from RN. bought used.

message too short, or too long?
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  #32  
Old October 30th, 2012, 04:26 AM
seaswood
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Craig
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90

This truck being original typical of a used LR well used needing lots of nuts bolts washers along with some elbow grease.
Some electrics to sort out a non working signal although all flashers work, assuming they are separate circuits. Brakes to re bleed, assorted details.
Maybe next year the 110 will get started after the holidays.
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  #33  
Old December 19th, 2012, 01:01 PM
seaswood
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wiring

Recently trying to learn land rover wiring I discovered the RR run up into the rear had worn through wire cutting one wire purple & damaging several others.
Also had removed all the covering have to open box from Brittish wiring to see if wire wrapping tape is there to start wrapping wire with new cover.
Yes this was necessary old rover the frame was filled with sand although still solid overall.
the method to clean out frame made necessary to check condition of wiring .
Red yellow wire was cut at fire wall, fog lights
Purple wire interior lighting was broken both have power now.
Although not sure where fog light are switched no switch on steering as I can find anyways.
And black out light not sure where that was switched.
So I have white lights in fog rear posit to be used with convoy wiring as a reverse light.

Then there is the learning curve of drum brakes in rear have to reroute spring pole to pole on drums. resurrected rovers in NH. corrected me as to my install mistake. Drums overheated.
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  #34  
Old January 16th, 2013, 06:15 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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Photos from some where else?

Anyone know why this thread has photos from somewhere else???
The rear end of a rover going down a road in a build thread?
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  #35  
Old January 17th, 2013, 04:03 AM
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mikeslandrover
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seaswood View Post
Although not sure where fog light are switched no switch on steering as I can find anyways.
Fog light switch is on the right hand side of the steering column, UK spec is only live when the dip beams are on. The switch is separate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...item5647fbf22d
Like this.

But later ones were like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover...item337e32f9fb
and would be on the dash board... somewhere difficult to reach while you're driving... just what you want when driving conditions are already difficult.

------ Follow up post added January 17th, 2013 09:04 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by seaswood View Post
Anyone know why this thread has photos from somewhere else???
The rear end of a rover going down a road in a build thread?
What???? Where???
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #36  
Old January 17th, 2013, 06:36 AM
seaswood
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Craig
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brake snail on rear

Mike
Some photos on previous page had moved into post your motorbike. Fixed I believe.
Brakes were installed with adjuster on front after drums overheating and several conversations I found out the adjuster needs to be on the rear & upper spring from post to post leaving front shoe floating.
This has been a learning experience & yes I forgot to install drums before bleed of brakes.But after the removal of hubs and backing plates it may be correct.
Kept the drum brakes on rear to also keep HD axles.
Fog lights on rear were wired to convoy wiring in switch & right side was fog wiring.
So reverse lights work with a switch on dash versus the transmission wiring.
And hope to pull harness back through frame next all rewrapped in new tape (non-stick)
from Brittish wiring.
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  #37  
Old August 19th, 2013, 07:10 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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axle switch

Finishing details & axle/differentials swap to 110.
front 110 11 spline to front of 90.
rear locker from 90 to front of 110.
& front 24 spline back to its home in the rear.
HD axles moved with locker to 110, although Bill s HD axles have a heavy boss for seal that I had a hard time getting to fit in stock swivel balls. So in process of moving teflon swivel balls to 110 as the axles seemed to work with this setup.
But as 90 is Left drive & 110 is righty drive have to switch swivel balls around to correct housings.
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  #38  
Old August 20th, 2013, 02:43 AM
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Jamie Austin
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Looking good. like the galvanised cappings.
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  #39  
Old August 20th, 2013, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
Looking good. like the galvanised cappings.
Likewise
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  #40  
Old November 12th, 2014, 03:45 PM
seaswood
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Craig
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Head work

Recent head work on 2.5 NA engine.
It was well overdue to be done, valves, guides, seals, pre combustion chambers.
Head gasket was about to go, worth the work
Lots of work but now runs much betta & the water stays where it should be.
In the engine before & after head & block, cleaning process.
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