1986 D110 Build-up, "RhinoRover" - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 15th, 2014, 01:45 PM
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1986 D110 Build-up, "RhinoRover"

1986 D110 Build, “RhinoRover”
I’m starting the largest and most complex automotive challenge I have had to date on a vehicle that I am only just becoming familiar with. Here’s what I am starting with: A 1986 D110 from South Africa with a 3.5L V8 and LT95 gearbox. The truck was used by the Royal Police as a troop carrier, as the story goes. It needs updating for drivability but also to pass emissions where I currently live. I want to build, “RhinoRover” so that it will be able to traverse any kind of moderate terrain during our long distance travels including the high mountains of my home state, Colorado.
I’ll start by making sure that it’s a great roller. Go thru the brakes, the axles, steering etc… I’ll also want to prep the doghouse with a fresh coat of paint and probably install the power steering unit (which I still need to buy). Then I am looking at two options for drivetrain. I will install a 4.2L engine with an automatic gearbox and the BorgWarner transfer case. This was taken out of a 1994 RRC LWB as a running, low mileage unit. After that, I’ll do a paint job. This is where it gets fun, because I’d like to do a theme painting. During our travels through Africa my wife and I were drawn to the wildlife and wonderful people. During one of our trips, we unfortunately witnessed the bodies of two poached Rhinoceros with their horns removed. I’ve seen a lot of difficult things including serving in the U.S. armed forces, but nothing makes me more upset than seeing these animals murdered and left to rot. That goes for any helpless animal or being, but the Rhino is very helpless and makes an easy target. At the time, poachers were killing 1-2 rhinos a day in Kruger National Park alone! There’s a very good chance that the species could go extinct in most of our lifetimes.
So, RhinoRover will be a rolling monument to the slain Rhinos, but more importantly an eye opener and reminder to everyone that sees us on the road that poaching can be stopped. Poaching is not ok and this project is just another small way of us raising awareness here in the States.
So, if you’re still with me, thank you. I have many questions and many hurdles to pass before RhinoRover once again hits the dirt and pavement. So here they are:
  • Does anyone feel like listing all the parts I will need for the swapping of powerplants?
  • What modifications will I have to make in order for the entire powerplant from the ’94 RRC (4.2L w/ an auto gearbox and BorgWarner transfer case) to fit into the 110 chassis and hard systems?
  • What motor mounts should I use?
  • What gearbox mounts should I use?
  • It sounds like it would be best to use the round crossmember tube from the RRC. Is it a bolt in application or are there modifications?
  • Will I need to change any of the differential gears?
  • If so, should I remove them from the RRC axles or…? What will give me the best MPG?
  • What driveshafts will work, or will I need to do modifications?
  • When separating all of the wiring needed from the rest of the RRC’s wiring loom, what should I keep and can anyone help me identify it?
  • I’ve heard of the VSS for the speedometer (I think) but how do I identify it and connect it to RhinoRover’s current gauges?
  • Fuel system. What do I need to keep from the RRC? I need to pass emissions too.
  • Cooling system. What radiator and transmission setup will be best?
  • Is there anything that I should do to the powerplant before installing, such as head gaskets, main seals etc…?
  • I would like to add an electronic distributor. Any recommendations?
  • Heating system. I don’t have a heater and was thinking of an aftermarket from Summit Racing. Any recommendations?
  • Power Steering. I have the parts from the LHD RRC. Any recommendations?
  • A/C system. I have the complete system from the RRC. Is this a good option?
  • Is there anything that I am missing and should pay attention to in order to build a daily driver and adventure rig?
I realize this is a lot to ask of any one person, so I am hoping that anyone that has gone through this before, or knows of someone to please provide some feedback. I have already had a ton of feedback and appreciate it very much, but I thought it would be better to start a new thread now that I have a better plan of action. I will take all of your suggestions (past and present) and hopefully be able to start and finish this project during my month and a half long holiday starting this December. I now need to prep everything the best that I can.
I want this to be one of those threads that others can follow for future builds, too.
All the best,
Andy

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  #2  
Old November 15th, 2014, 03:16 PM
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So here they are:[*]Does anyone feel like listing all the parts I will need for the swapping of powerplants?

Is your 86 an lt77 trans? That is a 5 speed? If so, it is a reasonably easy swap as swaps go. Doug C is the expert as I believe he has done a few.

Fuel lines, wiring, fan shroud, I would fit a new rad. Delete oil cooler lines. Fit trans cooler. All the engine loom can come from the LWB. You will or should hook up a warning bulb cluster from an NAS so you get all the right idiot lights.
[*]What modifications will I have to make in order for the entire powerplant from the ’94 RRC (4.2L w/ an auto gearbox and BorgWarner transfer case) to fit into the 110 chassis and hard systems?

Basically nothing other than the trans and t case mounts which you can use from the LWB.

[*]What motor mounts should I use?

Stock
[*]What gearbox mounts should I use?

Ones off the LWB
[*]It sounds like it would be best to use the round crossmember tube from the RRC. Is it a bolt in application or are there modifications?

You need one off an NAS defender.
[*]Will I need to change any of the differential gears?

No
[*]If so, should I remove them from the RRC axles or…?

No

What will give me the best MPG?

A Prius.
[*]What driveshafts will work, or will I need to do modifications?

Stock front off the LWB, stock rear off the 110 (assuming you have a five speed.
[*]When separating all of the wiring needed from the rest of the RRC’s wiring loom, what should I keep and can anyone help me identify it?

It is pretty obvious what is engine/trans related, and what is not engine/trans related, but it has been a while since I did one.
[*]I’ve heard of the VSS for the speedometer (I think) but how do I identify it and connect it to RhinoRover’s current gauges

No idea. Pretty sure they are both mechanical so you won't have too many issues.
[*]Fuel system. What do I need to keep from the RRC? I need to pass emissions too.

Two options: modify the frame to take the plastic LWB tank or fine a metal tank off an earlier RRC, NAS 110 and get the skid, fuel pump etc.
[*]Cooling system. What radiator and transmission setup will be best?

Stock NAS
[*]Is there anything that I should do to the powerplant before installing, such as head gaskets, main seals etc…?

Whatever is leaking. I would do read main and cross seals and oil pan, but would not disturb the heads if they looked good.
[*]I would like to add an electronic distributor. Any recommendations?

No.
[*]Heating system. I don’t have a heater and was thinking of an aftermarket from Summit Racing. Any recommendations?

Look for a thread about it. Stock is great too and since you are RHD should be cheap used. [*]Power Steering. I have the parts from the LHD RRC. Any recommendations?

Stock Box and lines.
[*]A/C system. I have the complete system from the RRC. Is this a good option?

Not at all.

[*]Is there anything that I am missing and should pay attention to in order to build a daily driver and adventure rig?

A lot of money. :-)

I realize this is a lot to ask of any one person, so I am hoping that anyone that has gone through this before, or knows of someone to please provide some feedback. I have already had a ton of feedback and appreciate it very much, but I thought it would be better to start a new thread now that I have a better plan of action. I will take all of your suggestions (past and present) and hopefully be able to start and finish this project during my month and a half long holiday starting this December. I now need to prep everything the best that I can. I want this to be one of those threads that others can follow for future builds, too. All the best, Andy [/QUOTE]
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  #3  
Old November 15th, 2014, 04:39 PM
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  #4  
Old November 15th, 2014, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
So here they are:[*]Does anyone feel like listing all the parts I will need for the swapping of powerplants?

Is your 86 an lt77 trans? That is a 5 speed? If so, it is a reasonably easy swap as swaps go. Doug C is the expert as I believe he has done a few.

Fuel lines, wiring, fan shroud, I would fit a new rad. Delete oil cooler lines. Fit trans cooler. All the engine loom can come from the LWB. You will or should hook up a warning bulb cluster from an NAS so you get all the right idiot lights. [*]What modifications will I have to make in order for the entire powerplant from the ’94 RRC (4.2L w/ an auto gearbox and BorgWarner transfer case) to fit into the 110 chassis and hard systems?

Basically nothing other than the trans and t case mounts which you can use from the LWB. [*]What motor mounts should I use?

Stock[*]What gearbox mounts should I use?

Ones off the LWB[*]It sounds like it would be best to use the round crossmember tube from the RRC. Is it a bolt in application or are there modifications?

You need one off an NAS defender. [*]Will I need to change any of the differential gears?

No[*]If so, should I remove them from the RRC axles or…?

No

What will give me the best MPG?

A Prius. [*]What driveshafts will work, or will I need to do modifications?

Stock front off the LWB, stock rear off the 110 (assuming you have a five speed. [*]When separating all of the wiring needed from the rest of the RRC’s wiring loom, what should I keep and can anyone help me identify it?

It is pretty obvious what is engine/trans related, and what is not engine/trans related, but it has been a while since I did one. [*]I’ve heard of the VSS for the speedometer (I think) but how do I identify it and connect it to RhinoRover’s current gauges

No idea. Pretty sure they are both mechanical so you won't have too many issues. [*]Fuel system. What do I need to keep from the RRC? I need to pass emissions too.

Two options: modify the frame to take the plastic LWB tank or fine a metal tank off an earlier RRC, NAS 110 and get the skid, fuel pump etc. [*]Cooling system. What radiator and transmission setup will be best?

Stock NAS [*]Is there anything that I should do to the powerplant before installing, such as head gaskets, main seals etc…?

Whatever is leaking. I would do read main and cross seals and oil pan, but would not disturb the heads if they looked good. [*]I would like to add an electronic distributor. Any recommendations?

No. [*]Heating system. I don’t have a heater and was thinking of an aftermarket from Summit Racing. Any recommendations?

Look for a thread about it. Stock is great too and since you are RHD should be cheap used. [*]Power Steering. I have the parts from the LHD RRC. Any recommendations?

Stock Box and lines. [*]A/C system. I have the complete system from the RRC. Is this a good option?

Not at all. [*]Is there anything that I am missing and should pay attention to in order to build a daily driver and adventure rig?

A lot of money. :-)

I realize this is a lot to ask of any one person, so I am hoping that anyone that has gone through this before, or knows of someone to please provide some feedback. I have already had a ton of feedback and appreciate it very much, but I thought it would be better to start a new thread now that I have a better plan of action. I will take all of your suggestions (past and present) and hopefully be able to start and finish this project during my month and a half long holiday starting this December. I now need to prep everything the best that I can. I want this to be one of those threads that others can follow for future builds, too. All the best, Andy
[/QUOTE]


Evilfij,


I need to get back to Doug C, he's already helped quite a bit, but I have more questions for him too, now that I have things gathered.


The gearbox is an LT95 I believe. It's a 4 speed. Does that make it more complicated?


You are not the first to suggest leaving the oil cooler lines behind. Don't you think that I'd have problems driving (loaded) in the mountains on pavement and off-road without the oil cooler lines?


I didn't even think about the idiot lights. That's a good point! I could modify the original RRC cluster and fashion a display somewhere in or on the defenders dash, but something tells me you have a better idea than that?


Do you know if the engine/gearbox mounts are interchangeable? I haven't looked under the defender yet that closely to see if they will unbolt like on the RRC.


Any idea what fuel pressure the 4.2L runs on? I need to get a shop manual.


Wiring is what gives me nightmares I figured too that I could easily trace the wires from both the engine and gearbox and shed the rest. What worries me though is missing even a single wire and all the headaches that come later. If I trace from all the components, sensors etc.. from the engine and gearbox back to the ECU's, do you think I'll be ok with just that? Oh, and to the instrument cluster. Is it really that easy? I'd also like to keep the onboard diagnostic display. I should mention that I have all of it bundled and labeled and sitting on top of the engine. I only removed what was necessary and literally cut the truck away from it for easy removal. Most of its still connected.


I hear ya on the money part!


Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!
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  #5  
Old November 15th, 2014, 08:32 PM
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Andy, I need to catch up with you on RR parts...

Doug has done this conversion several times; recently with his son on his 110.
All the wiring/harness you need is there.
Personally, I'd ditch the LT95 and use the ZF auto from the LWB.
But, you'll need to pick up a LT230 to replace the BorgWarner(nobody uses those in a Defender!)


.
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  #6  
Old November 15th, 2014, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Andy, I need to catch up with you on RR parts...

Doug has done this conversion several times; recently with his son on his 110.
All the wiring/harness you need is there.
Personally, I'd ditch the LT95 and use the ZF auto from the LWB.
But, you'll need to pick up a LT230 to replace the BorgWarner(nobody uses those in a Defender!)


.
Jeff,

I agree with you on the ZF. There's a lt230 for sale here in Denver that I could pick up tomorrow. I think it's advertised as a 1:1 2-1 high range. It includes a linkage for $175. It came out of a Disco. Does this sound like a good unit? Are there other gear ratio options? I'm also not that knowledgeable about gearing.

Why not use the BorgWarner out of the RRC?

PM me about the parts you need.
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  #7  
Old November 15th, 2014, 09:21 PM
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The LT95 four speed means you need a new rear driveshaft at a minimum in addition to what I wrote above. You need to check with Doug to see if the ZF auto fits under the transmission hump. There may be issues with getting trans mounts to fit. I don't know. You will also need/want a new exhaust. If the VC is still ok in the Borg Warner, no reason not to run it, but I prefer an LT230, especially for off road. Make sure to get one complete with the brake drum assembly. You are basically building an NAS 110, so pretty much everything from a NAS defender fits and there are stock solutions, often very cheap parts, that work. The idiot lights you can just swap the little red cluster. No need to hack and fit a RRC one. I bet you could even use the one you have and use some of the empty ones for a CEL etc.

The engine harness is nearly completely separate from the body harness so it is real easy to trace. If you leave it all on the engine and simply find the few wires that go to the actual truck, you should be fine.
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  #8  
Old November 16th, 2014, 05:38 AM
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You didn't mention what mileage is on the 4.2L, so my recommendation is to do a valve train rebuild (heads) if you have more than 100k miles on it. IMO, it's relatively cheap insurance compared to the total you are about to spend on this project. It will furthermore allow you to look at the pistons and cylinder liners. I would change every single gasket and seal you can get at, while the engine is out: valve covers, oil pan, intake manifold, water pump, front cover, front rear main seals, etc. I just went through the same "exercise" on a 3.9L at a cost of $450 including the price of the complete gasket set. Short of a complete rebuild which you might not necessarily need, you have a fresh engine and piece of mind.

One thing you haven't asked about is the exhaust system. Again depending on the condition of your current system, you will at minimum need the set of down pipes (and new O2 sensors) from your 4.2L to adapt to your existing exhaust. Two sensors are required on the 3.9L , and I'm assuming the same for your 4.2L, I'm sure someone will come along and correct me if I'm wrong.

As for the VSS, based on the recommendation of this board, I would get a new one, again unless the one from the 4.2L is in pristine condition. You will also need 2 speedo cables, a short one that goes from the tranny/transfer box to the VSS, and a long one that goes from the VSS to the speedo. Both of those cables are becoming harder to find (and more expensive by the day) as they are NLA.
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  #9  
Old November 16th, 2014, 08:16 AM
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I have two of these that I have done here @ the moment. One is a fi 4.2 auto/borg warner setup, the other is Trey's 4.2 with 4bbl auto lt230. If your truck has an lt95 seat box and floors you will have to make minor mods either way. The lt230 will require that you change out the bulkhead adapter, floors, tunnel, and do some modifcations to the front of the seatbox, or change that as well. The auto/lt230 setup will fit under either lt77 or r380 floors but not other setups. The borg warner has a different shape and will fit the floors and seat box of the lt95 setup but will require some work on the bolt on tunnel cover. A lot depends on what shifter setup you want use. I like Nick's Lokkar solution as opposed to the factory shift console or a bastardized something in between, that decision will boil down to personal preference. The rrc cross member will work if you are ok with just using the top 2 bolts. Otherwise if you want all 4 you need to cut the end/frame plates off the lt95 one and weld the round tube from the classic cross member in. This because the exhaust y pipe will not clear the early style cross member. As far as wiring goes. Shayne actually posted up a good reference on which wires from the classic 14cux harness need to be used. Hopefully you didn't cut anything removing it. There will need to be a wire run up to the brake light switch on the bulkhead for the shift inter lock and then there is the back up lights on the transmission which are easy enough. Cliff Notes version is a switched ignition wire to the coil same as the engine you are removing- white wire. Constant power to the ecu harness brown wire, switched power to the ecu harness (forget the color of the wire @ the moment), ground the ecu harness, and out wire to your new FI fuel pump and that is pretty much it for required (think the fuel pump wire was a purple trace one but again ymmv). There are other wires such as an idle up signal that requires a signal from the a/c clutch wire, vss if you choose to use one but the system doesn't need it to operate. etc.
My opinion on the worthless oil cooler lines on pre-gems trucks is well known. I lost them on both trucks. The trans cooler is required and you will need to do some fab work on the lines up front as the classic ones are a bit off for use on the 110.
Under the seat on the classic were three 5 pin relays with the ecu. The 14cux needs two of those to operate. I set all of this up in the right side seat box. The third relay is for the a/c fan controls and won't be needed to get you on the road.
A 1.2 tcase is fine in an auto 110. Trey's truck has stock gearing in the diffs, a winch bumper, 3 inch lift, 33's and will run 85 down the interstate pulling the sankey full of gear.
FWIW on the lwb that we used as a donor for the one truck had an NRP stainless exhaust. That fit nicely under the 110 with some hanger mods. The tip will require either being cut off or other redirection as it protrudes about 8 inches past the rear cross member.

The power steering seems like a no brainer, of course use the pump from the classic. Did the 110 not have power steering ? Never seen a v8 truck that didn't have it but these ckd trucks from SA are quite different.

I dislike drum brakes that are not auto adjusting so on both trucks I swapped in the 24 spline rover disc brake axles instead of converting the salisbury. In speaking with Stephen @ Safari HP he does the same on his builds. I don't see much value in the salisbury for the uses these trucks will be seeing. I had custom rear drive shafts made for both trucks which the local heavy truck place did for less than $200ea including new U joints.

I'm working on shipping one out of Durban SA right now and finding just how true the stories of rampant graft and corruption are through out SA society. Having shipped and imported trucks from Australia,New Zealand, Egypt, the UAE etc I find Africa to be even more rediculous than Egypt. Hats off to you if you can import trucks from there regularly.Compared to that this mechanical swap should be a cake walk.
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  #10  
Old November 16th, 2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhinoRover View Post
Jeff,

I agree with you on the ZF. There's a lt230 for sale here in Denver that I could pick up tomorrow. I think it's advertised as a 1:1 2-1 high range. It includes a linkage for $175. It came out of a Disco. Does this sound like a good unit? Are there other gear ratio options? I'm also not that knowledgeable about gearing.

Why not use the BorgWarner out of the RRC?

PM me about the parts you need.
Like Ron said, you could use a BorgWarner but unless you knew it had a replaced viscous unit , I wouldn't go through the effort.
If your LWB had over 100K miles the viscous will be failing at some point or the BW itself could fail(mine did).
I'll pm you on parts.

.
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  #11  
Old November 16th, 2014, 09:13 AM
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I have a NAS transmission crossmember here in the Denver area if you end up needing one. Purchased it for my project but ended up not needing it.
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  #12  
Old November 16th, 2014, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samer0214 View Post
You didn't mention what mileage is on the 4.2L, so my recommendation is to do a valve train rebuild (heads) if you have more than 100k miles on it. IMO, it's relatively cheap insurance compared to the total you are about to spend on this project. It will furthermore allow you to look at the pistons and cylinder liners. I would change every single gasket and seal you can get at, while the engine is out: valve covers, oil pan, intake manifold, water pump, front cover, front rear main seals, etc. I just went through the same "exercise" on a 3.9L at a cost of $450 including the price of the complete gasket set. Short of a complete rebuild which you might not necessarily need, you have a fresh engine and piece of mind.

One thing you haven't asked about is the exhaust system. Again depending on the condition of your current system, you will at minimum need the set of down pipes (and new O2 sensors) from your 4.2L to adapt to your existing exhaust. Two sensors are required on the 3.9L , and I'm assuming the same for your 4.2L, I'm sure someone will come along and correct me if I'm wrong.

As for the VSS, based on the recommendation of this board, I would get a new one, again unless the one from the 4.2L is in pristine condition. You will also need 2 speedo cables, a short one that goes from the tranny/transfer box to the VSS, and a long one that goes from the VSS to the speedo. Both of those cables are becoming harder to find (and more expensive by the day) as they are NLA.

Samer,


The truck had just over 80k miles and ran very smoothly. Everything seemed to work great except for the day before demolition I took it for a drive, and the HI/LOW shifter locked up, and I couldn't select either one. Sounds like there's a sensor that may have gone bad from reading other posts? I guess it's better that it happened then rather than during install. I'll replace some of those things you mentioned above, but I might wait on a rebuild. I need to look at the entire powerplant more closely though.


I do have the "Y" pipe with the cats. I also have two good systems from both trucks, a cutting wheel and a good welder It passed emissions just four months ago, so I'll probably reinstall all of the original exhaust components. I think you're right, there were two O2 sensors. Is the second and last muffler inline on the RRC good to keep in place? I'm guessing that it's redundant.


I looked into the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and priced one just in case, but more, so that I could contribute a little for others looking at this thread. It's Genuine Part # YBE100540.


Question on the speedo cables? I am assuming that the 110 has a mechanical cable? I didn't notice that on the RRC. I thought that when I removed the instrument cluster it was all wire connections. Am I missing something? I should really look at this before asking, but it might help others too.


Thanks again!
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  #13  
Old November 18th, 2014, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I have two of these that I have done here @ the moment. One is a fi 4.2 auto/borg warner setup, the other is Trey's 4.2 with 4bbl auto lt230. If your truck has an lt95 seat box and floors you will have to make minor mods either way. The lt230 will require that you change out the bulkhead adapter, floors, tunnel, and do some modifcations to the front of the seatbox, or change that as well. The auto/lt230 setup will fit under either lt77 or r380 floors but not other setups. The borg warner has a different shape and will fit the floors and seat box of the lt95 setup but will require some work on the bolt on tunnel cover. A lot depends on what shifter setup you want use. I like Nick's Lokkar solution as opposed to the factory shift console or a bastardized something in between, that decision will boil down to personal preference. The rrc cross member will work if you are ok with just using the top 2 bolts. Otherwise if you want all 4 you need to cut the end/frame plates off the lt95 one and weld the round tube from the classic cross member in. This because the exhaust y pipe will not clear the early style cross member. As far as wiring goes. Shayne actually posted up a good reference on which wires from the classic 14cux harness need to be used. Hopefully you didn't cut anything removing it. There will need to be a wire run up to the brake light switch on the bulkhead for the shift inter lock and then there is the back up lights on the transmission which are easy enough. Cliff Notes version is a switched ignition wire to the coil same as the engine you are removing- white wire. Constant power to the ecu harness brown wire, switched power to the ecu harness (forget the color of the wire @ the moment), ground the ecu harness, and out wire to your new FI fuel pump and that is pretty much it for required (think the fuel pump wire was a purple trace one but again ymmv). There are other wires such as an idle up signal that requires a signal from the a/c clutch wire, vss if you choose to use one but the system doesn't need it to operate. etc.
My opinion on the worthless oil cooler lines on pre-gems trucks is well known. I lost them on both trucks. The trans cooler is required and you will need to do some fab work on the lines up front as the classic ones are a bit off for use on the 110.
Under the seat on the classic were three 5 pin relays with the ecu. The 14cux needs two of those to operate. I set all of this up in the right side seat box. The third relay is for the a/c fan controls and won't be needed to get you on the road.
A 1.2 tcase is fine in an auto 110. Trey's truck has stock gearing in the diffs, a winch bumper, 3 inch lift, 33's and will run 85 down the interstate pulling the sankey full of gear.
FWIW on the lwb that we used as a donor for the one truck had an NRP stainless exhaust. That fit nicely under the 110 with some hanger mods. The tip will require either being cut off or other redirection as it protrudes about 8 inches past the rear cross member.

The power steering seems like a no brainer, of course use the pump from the classic. Did the 110 not have power steering ? Never seen a v8 truck that didn't have it but these ckd trucks from SA are quite different.

I dislike drum brakes that are not auto adjusting so on both trucks I swapped in the 24 spline rover disc brake axles instead of converting the salisbury. In speaking with Stephen @ Safari HP he does the same on his builds. I don't see much value in the salisbury for the uses these trucks will be seeing. I had custom rear drive shafts made for both trucks which the local heavy truck place did for less than $200ea including new U joints.

I'm working on shipping one out of Durban SA right now and finding just how true the stories of rampant graft and corruption are through out SA society. Having shipped and imported trucks from Australia,New Zealand, Egypt, the UAE etc I find Africa to be even more rediculous than Egypt. Hats off to you if you can import trucks from there regularly.Compared to that this mechanical swap should be a cake walk.

Doug,


I have decided that I don't want to cut the body. I'd like to keep it as original as possible. With that said, I don't mind drilling a hole or making a cut-out here or there to fit a cable/rod or the like. With the mods you mentioned regarding the BorgWarner vs. the lt230 I would definitely go the BorgWarner route, but only so that I didn't disturb the body's integrity. What kind of cuts/mods would I need to make to the tunnel? Is it drastic and a clearance issue or is it to simply to run stuff like the cables through? Would you happen to have any pictures?


Have you switched the entire axles or just the internals? I mean do the RRC axle shafts plug into the 110's? That would be nice!


I'm really starting to like my initial idea of keeping the original lt95 or better yet, swapping to an lt85 and just adding the engine. I wanted an auto setup so that my wife could drive it easily. She can fly a plane like no other, but not a manual shift car This would be a good rig for her to learn on though. I'd really like to be able to enjoy driving it in the near future too, that's always a plus


So, I am curious. What do you think about just swapping engines at this time. Is it more/less a plug and play compared to the other options? Sounds like I'd still need to modify the "y" pipe or the cross member, fuel system, throttle cables, sort and run all of the wiring, and others items.


I'm really starting to lean in this direction.


You either love or hate SA. I love it there, but the corruption I can do without.


Thanks!
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  #14  
Old November 18th, 2014, 04:13 PM
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Doug Crowther
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I change complete axle assembly's but only 24 spline axles.

Any auto conversion will require some modification. The 4.2 will bolt up to the lt95 and you won't have to modify the trans tunnel etc.

The lt95 trans tunnel doesn't quite completely clear the hi/low shift linkage on a borg warner.

That said a 4.2 and auto is a nice upgrade for a 110.
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  #15  
Old November 18th, 2014, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I change complete axle assembly's but only 24 spline axles.
How have the 24 spline setups held up for you? Seems like an easier way for disk upgrades for the rear and parts for them are plentiful.
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  #16  
Old November 18th, 2014, 06:40 PM
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Never had an issue. That said,they can certainly be broken if you try hard enough.
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  #17  
Old December 7th, 2014, 04:33 PM
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Might be outta subject but, those side windows on the hard top, can I get a part number or dimemsions? D'like to get the exact same ones! A van 110 is cool for loading stuff but ain't the best for driver visibility ... Sliding one will permit losta draf as well.

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Old December 28th, 2014, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNRover View Post
Might be outta subject but, those side windows on the hard top, can I get a part number or dimemsions? D'like to get the exact same ones! A van 110 is cool for loading stuff but ain't the best for driver visibility ... Sliding one will permit losta draf as well.

Thanks,
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  #19  
Old December 28th, 2014, 02:22 AM
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New Progress

Finally have some time to work on RhinoRover!!

Here's what I did today:

1. Sorted all of the RRC parts and ready to sell.

2. Front axle hub assembly install (including all new bushings, bearings and seals) but need to find tool to remove brass bushing from stub axles in order to finish.

3. Seperated powerplant.

4. Sorted wiring harness.

I noticed that when sorting the wiring that the fuel injection wiring and ECU are nearly in one harness. The exception being two plugs of wires that lead to the rest of the main harness. What do I do? Should I trace these and remove the wires from the main harness? See the pictures that I took, I wrapped the two plugs with duct tape for easy identification.

Tomorrow: Remove old 3.5L engine from RhinoRover and hope that the clutch parts look good and that the flywheel etc... will fit onto the 4.2L engine or that the clutch will fit onto the 4.2L flywheel.
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  #20  
Old December 30th, 2014, 06:56 PM
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Progress

I removed the old 3.5L today. Nice surprise was that it looks like the transmission has been worked on - hopefully rebuilt and there were no leaks to speak of either from the engine or tranny. Now I need to figure out if the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate will properly work on the 4.2L. It looks like it will bolt up just fine. Does anyone know? Does anyone know the tolerances if I were to measure the thickness of the clutch plate to see if the existing one is still good? It looks a little thin, but then I don't have experience with Rovers to compare it to.
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