1986 D110 Build-up, "RhinoRover" - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 31st, 2014, 03:01 AM
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Mike Hammond
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If the engine is out and the clutch unknown/old I always replace the whole shooting match.
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  #22  
Old December 31st, 2014, 05:22 AM
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Doug Crowther
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buy a new clutch, pressure plate and t/o bearing. They are cheap compared to pulling the trans again in 40k.
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  #23  
Old December 31st, 2014, 08:51 AM
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Samer Hijazi
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1986 D110 Build-up, "RhinoRover"

Quote:
Originally Posted by RhinoRover View Post
Samer


I do have the "Y" pipe with the cats. I also have two good systems from both trucks, a cutting wheel and a good welder It passed emissions just four months ago, so I'll probably reinstall all of the original exhaust components. I think you're right, there were two O2 sensors. Is the second and last muffler inline on the RRC good to keep in place? I'm guessing that it's redundant.


I looked into the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and priced one just in case, but more, so that I could contribute a little for others looking at this thread. It's Genuine Part # YBE100540.


Question on the speedo cables? I am assuming that the 110 has a mechanical cable? I didn't notice that on the RRC. I thought that when I removed the instrument cluster it was all wire connections. Am I missing something? I should really look at this before asking, but it might help others too.


Thanks again!

Sorry I missed this post from before.

- I'm not sure about the RRC exhaust as I'm not familiar with it.

- Yes, the speedo cable on the 110 is mechanical (as you might have discovered by now), and as I mentioned is a 2-part cable for use with the VSS. Since posting my reply earlier, I have found out that you can get away with not using the VSS, if you keep the 14CUX ECU, and it shouldn't affect how the truck will run. Of course it's better if you can source new cables and include the VSS. BTW, the VSS has 2 wires that connect to the wiring harness of the ECU.

- In your initial post, you had a question about an electronic distributor. I recommend you contact D&D Fabricators out of Michigan (www.aluminumv8.com), and they can set you up with an HEI distributor system for about $350, last I talked to the owner. No affiliation with the company or the owner, just a very nice and customer service oriented guy who spent quite a bit of time with me on the phone discussing upgrades for my swap.
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  #24  
Old January 3rd, 2015, 09:01 PM
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Andy
1986 D110
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Thanks Samer! I'll probably call that company soon.


Here's a shot or two of my current progress. I love how straight all of the components are and the lack of rust/corrosion. I haven't stripped a bolt or screw yet! Also, love the fact that Defenders seem to have very few sizes of bolts compared to the RRC. I couldn't believe how many times I had to change sockets when tearing the RRC down. Also, finding out that all the stories are true about being able to do most repair jobs in the field on these Defenders. I love the simplicity.


I'm waiting to move forward on the front hub to find the correct rubber seal that sits inside the stub axle/spindle. I had a local machine shop remove the brass bushings and they were able to save them for me! Saved $50 and a week waiting for parts only to find that when I pulled the rubber seal out and compared it to the new ones from the shop that they were the wrong size. Darn. Hopefully the Colorado Springs dealership will have those seals, but I'm not holding my breath.


I think I'm going with Uncle Doug's recommendation to switch the gas tank to a newer Defender tank. I talked with Summit Racing to see if they had fuel pumps that could work. I am always impressed with their sales and tech staff. I found that an external fuel pump would only work (or should I say last long enough to be worthwhile) if it was gravity fed. then it could only be 18 inches from the tank and slope down from the tank. Using the drain plug could work but then the connection for the discharge fuel line would be exposed to damage while off-road. Plus it would be difficult to find a downhill location for the pump that would hide above the bottom of the frame. So, I think I'm going to measure the RRC tank and see if it will fit first before buying a Defender tank. The two negatives though that I can think of is that it's plastic and the pump access is on top.













Quote:
Originally Posted by samer0214 View Post
Sorry I missed this post from before.

- I'm not sure about the RRC exhaust as I'm not familiar with it.

- Yes, the speedo cable on the 110 is mechanical (as you might have discovered by now), and as I mentioned is a 2-part cable for use with the VSS. Since posting my reply earlier, I have found out that you can get away with not using the VSS, if you keep the 14CUX ECU, and it shouldn't affect how the truck will run. Of course it's better if you can source new cables and include the VSS. BTW, the VSS has 2 wires that connect to the wiring harness of the ECU.

- In your initial post, you had a question about an electronic distributor. I recommend you contact D&D Fabricators out of Michigan (www.aluminumv8.com), and they can set you up with an HEI distributor system for about $350, last I talked to the owner. No affiliation with the company or the owner, just a very nice and customer service oriented guy who spent quite a bit of time with me on the phone discussing upgrades for my swap.
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  #25  
Old January 3rd, 2015, 09:35 PM
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Doug Crowther
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A rrc lwb exhaust fits a 110. I recently fit a NRP stainless off an lwb that was bought for its drive train and the exhaust fit the 110 well.
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  #26  
Old January 3rd, 2015, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
A rrc lwb exhaust fits a 110. I recently fit a NRP stainless off an lwb that was bought for its drive train and the exhaust fit the 110 well.
I wish I knew that before I bought an NRP and sold my lwb with he borla.
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  #27  
Old January 9th, 2015, 08:14 PM
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Andy
1986 D110
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Bare Bones

Well, I finally decided to remove the transmission too and most likely go back to plan "B" which is to install the automatic with the Borg Warner. After digging into it a little deeper I don't mind so much anymore if I have to alter the transmission tunnel. Now, it's time to remove the tiny bit of light surface rust from the bulkhead, paint a spot or two, order the fuel tank from Rovers N. with components, lay the fuel lines and recruit some help to get the new powerplant into Rhino Rover. I'm really trying to get her up and running so that she can serve a purpose rather than doing a restoration at this time. Get her back onto the road/trail and get my Series IIa in for a full restoration. I think I'm jumping the gun though even mentioning that project. Here's some pics: Notice that I had to rip the carpet from the floors and now get the fun task of removing all that glue! And check out the baby blue paint on the covered panels that is also underneath. Can you believe all these screws and nuts turned right off! That's what I'm excited about
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  #28  
Old March 8th, 2015, 10:11 PM
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Andy
1986 D110
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New engine!

Ok, today my friend and I installed the 4.2L RRC engine/Tranny/t-case in one swoop. Well, almost. It's hanging on the hoist awaiting new rubber mounts. I ordered new rubber mounts for both the engine and tranny, but the diameter of the bolts were larger than the originals. I looked on my friends '95 RRC and they were the same as what I ordered. Not sure where the disconnect is, but I'm not about to drill out the mounting brackets just to fit the larger bolts. At least the brackets on both the chassis and the engine/tranny have the same diameter slots. Still, it's exciting! And it's great to have good friends! Thanks Andrew. Here's a couple pictures:
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  #29  
Old March 9th, 2015, 07:14 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Looking good
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  #30  
Old March 17th, 2015, 01:13 PM
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RhinoRover
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Andy
1986 D110
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Engine and Tranny - INSTALLED!

I received the engine/tranny mounts and both are now installed! transfer case too! everything fits well. I removed a small section of the bracket that holds the high/low shifter arm so that it would never rub on the seat box because it was close. I also trimmed a corner off of the drivers side transmission mount otherwise it would not fit due to a body bracket in the way that is welded to the frame. Everything I do in this project is aimed at keeping the original integrity of this vehicle intact.


Now, what's next? I am thinking in this order: fuel lines, emission lines, throttle, electrical wiring, hand brake, exhaust, and then drive shafts. Then figure out the air intake. I'd like to affix a snorkel, but there's not a lot of room on the passenger side to fit the Air flow sensor etc... I wonder if I can flip the top of the air intake (the alloy body with the "4.2" stamped on it) thus giving me more room on the drivers side and I think bringing the throttle cable attachments over too? I don't really want the snorkel on the drivers side though. hmmmm.


Brakes have been bled, new stainless lines installed and the front axle rebuilt.
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  #31  
Old June 29th, 2015, 09:38 PM
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David Katz
1985 Defender 110 SW County
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Do you want to sell the LT95 trans?
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  #32  
Old November 24th, 2015, 10:57 AM
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Andy
1986 D110
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He's Alive!!

RhinoRover started on the first try!!! Now I need to hard wire everything and start to assemble the dash etc... Oh, and no leaks of any kind!!! I'm excited, but I have a lot of building to do yet.
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  #33  
Old November 24th, 2015, 11:48 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Congrats! Always a good feeling when they start up.
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  #34  
Old February 12th, 2016, 07:11 PM
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Andy
1986 D110
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Can't Select a Single Gear

It's been a while, been very busy with work and life, but I finally found some time to work on the truck again!!! This time I was able to start and stop the engine However, my main goal tonight was to be able to get the transmission to engage and it's NOT In fact, when I put it into "P" it is making a grinding noise very similar to a manual shift transmission when one can't select a gear when shifting. Maybe better described as shifting without a clutch and the gears grind a little until the correct RPM is achieved and the shifter slides right into gear. It's that noise except that it's constant until I shift it into where "R,N,D,2,1" would be, then it goes away. Does anyone have any ideas of what I should be looking for to correct these problems (not engaging and also making a grinding noise in park)?

I'm thinking it's an adjustment to the shift linkage? I did separate both engine and tranny during installation. I also just refilled the tranny with oil after having to drain it for a filter change.


There's one other problem. I'm getting a build up of pressure in the coolant. It started seeping out of the old coolant reservoir. I checked the radiator level which was normal and while doing so the additional pressure was released from the system. I don't really have an overflow. Do I need one?

Thanks!!
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  #35  
Old February 13th, 2016, 03:52 PM
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Andy
1986 D110
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Trannys working too!!

Okay, I feel like an idiot. I originally filled the tranny with the specified amount of fluid from the shop manual. I checked it again this morning, in "N" with the engine running and it was low, about a quart. I filled it up, ran through the gears and everything works perfectly!! No more grinding noise and it shifts into every slot perfectly!

Now, I can pull it out of the garage to do some light welding to modify the transfer case shift stick and build a unit for the tranny shift stick. Time to try out the new TIG welder! There's much work to be done but it feels good to have it rolling. It's been sitting in the garage for about a year and a half now.
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  #36  
Old July 6th, 2016, 09:20 PM
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Andy
1986 D110
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Almost Road Worthy

Just returned from shop to have an alignment done. This is the first time a mechanic has touched RhinoRover. Next stop is the emissions testing center, wish us luck I've already driven about 6 miles without a single hiccup! Hopefully by August I can start putting on some real miles including the trails!
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