1985 L/R 90 2.5 petrol into something Mo better - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old April 11th, 2009, 05:11 PM
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I had the flat black one that I had to peal off to paint the hood. If I could fine a source for that I would go for that instead. If CF a misprint for the Checker Plate? or something else?
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  #62  
Old April 12th, 2009, 08:49 AM
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Tom, were the doors you got the new style ones? I have a pair as well and the paint was basically exactly the same as the Alpine white. Next to the freshly painted Alpine white it was the same.. I did not take chances though and repainted the new doors anyway...
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  #63  
Old April 12th, 2009, 09:03 AM
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They were off a 2006 110 td5 according to the sticker on the wind shield, and it said Chawton white solid.
I assume they are the new style dooors, but Safari rovers ad says they changed in 2007?
I also assumed the wind shield frame and the doors were off the same truck, or at least batch of trucks.
I also couldn't see the diff between Chawton and alpine, there was an alpine truck where I picked them up.
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  #64  
Old April 28th, 2009, 09:15 PM
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Engine is in!

Engine is in, but my main mechanic just got suspended for the rest of the week for fighting.
Fenders and hood are in the paint booth. I like the white.
My powder coater just offered to redo my wheels black to match the bumpers and sliders. very tempted.
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  #65  
Old April 28th, 2009, 11:33 PM
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Replace your shock towers.

Ron
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  #66  
Old April 29th, 2009, 09:53 AM
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What would be my best option for new ones?


Theres a set of 2" lower towers in the for sale section, what else would I have to change to make them work?
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  #67  
Old April 29th, 2009, 11:06 AM
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you would need a 2" lift and 2" longer bumpstops

I just cleaned mine up and painted them. well, the one that was bad anyway. they aren't hard to change out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1
What would be my best option for new ones?

you would need a 2" lift and 2" longer bumpstops

I just cleaned mine up and painted them. well, the one that was bad anyway. they aren't hard to change out.


Theres a set of 2" lower towers in the for sale section, what else would I have to change to make them work?
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  #68  
Old April 29th, 2009, 11:17 AM
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Wow your truck is getting a nice makeover. Why not pull the headlight assemblies and get paint behind them?
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  #69  
Old April 29th, 2009, 11:51 AM
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I'm at the will of the Autobody teacher and his students.
Also I figure the more I take apart the less likely I am to find everything.
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  #70  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 09:54 PM
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Update

There was some down time in the engine install class, so I push it over to the Autobody class. I only have 3 weeks to get er done!

Kudos to Ron for suggesting that I needed new front shock towers, I thought they looked fine, but what do I know. The rush under and inside was pretty bad, scraped and treated the rush and started to install the Equippe Towers I got from Dale. Wanted to finish , but decided to treat the rust completely first.
Question: Do I need to put something between the Aluminium and the Frame?

I am more concerned now about the reaction between the two metals due to the fact that a friend Aluminium wheel was so stuck on the steel rotor, that it had to be drilled, tapped and finally beat with a sledge hammer.

Finally got some keeper seats! A little Star Tracky but they are crazy comfy and mount perfectly on a flat surface.

Also have included a pic of my backup ride for when the 90's laid up.
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  #71  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 11:13 PM
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Tom,

If possible you should have them remove the badges, lic plate light and the rear tire carrier.

I would also remove the little windows in the rear, the are really easy to remove (1 min with a razor blade) and then replace with a new gasket after the paint is applied.

I understand that you are having this done at school so your hands are kind of tied on some things but that is 30 min worth of work that would make a huge diffrence.
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  #72  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 03:40 AM
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"Question: Do I need to put something between the Aluminium and the Frame?"

Are the equipe ones aluminium? I assume that is what you are talking about. It surprises me that they would make them out of aluminium. I would put some silicone or cut a thin sheet of rubber into a gasket, but I don't think it is necessary, but it will prevent corrosion ruining the appearance of the shock towers.

If you are talking about somewhere else, the answer is whereever aluminium and steel meet, you want to isolate them with silicone, rubber gaskets, rubber washers or whatever you can to avoid corrosion.

Also, x2 on what dave_lucas says above.

Ron
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  #73  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 07:31 AM
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I just assumed they were aluminum, but they were kind of heavy.The badge and the light will come off, i just have drill some rivet and ran out of time yesterday.
Is it worth taking out the small rear windows, cause there is no way I can take out the sides.
Thanks
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  #74  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1
Is it worth taking out the small rear windows
It is more than worth it, you should be able to remove them in under 2 min per side.

The reason I am saying that is...

It is hard to prep the area properly with the gaskets there and the paint might start to flake / pull up next to the gasket or the gaskets might shrink (or change) in the future and expose the brown paint. Since you are changing the color this would look really bad if the paint started to flake and it was brown.

The best option is to remove everything you can when you change the color but I understand that your hands are tied to some extent. This is an easy thing to do that will only cost you some new gaskets and a few mins.

FYI when I remove windows that are held in with a gasket I get a sharp razor knife and cut around the middle of the gasket and the window will pop out easy. If your gasket is the type that has a rubber insert in the middle pull it out and see if the window will pop out, if not then you cut the gasket.
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  #75  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 11:37 AM
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Also, if the gaskets look good you do not have to cut them. They are two pieces the main gasket and a strip in the middle which holds the window in place. Pull out the strip and then carefully push the window through the opening if the gaskets are still good. George sells the gasket for $2.50 a foot new. I would also paint the rear door seperately.
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  #76  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 12:01 PM
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No way you can take out the sides? You just pull the weatherstrip and drill the rivets. Might take an hour to do both. You'll get better paint if you do it, and its a good opportunity to replace the felts.

Follow-up Post:

And I've got the tool to reinstall the rear and alpine windows.
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  #77  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 12:17 PM
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BTW I see the towers in a picture I missed and there is no need to put anything between the frame and the tower (other than some paint to prevent rust on the frame) because the towers are cadinium plated steel.
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  #78  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 02:13 PM
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one last thing and I will stop making work for you / students

Remove the rubber door seals around the front and rear doors rather than masking them. They are super easy to remove and only take a few mins to remove / replace.
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  #79  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 02:26 PM
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Tom,

If you need a mechanic while yours is suspended I know one, GRANTED HE DOESN'T KNOW JACK SH**T ABOUT DIESEL ENGINES!
Also the Nittos would look sweet on your back up ride.
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  #80  
Old May 23rd, 2009, 02:30 PM
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Many thanks, I'll look at all the windows on Tuesday. The door seals I was going to do, but forgot. and the rear door is pretty much junk, so I will replace it. The Tailgate I got is already white. Keep the suggestions coming, they keep me honest, and stop me from cutting corners.
Thanks
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