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  #161  
Old March 16th, 2010, 10:07 AM
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Bill Adams
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I hate to add critical comments, but I will anyway.
While it probably is OK, I would not have run the stainless up the back of the engine and clipped it there. The point of the rubber hose is to isolate the steel line from vibration. Attaching the steel line to the engine sorta negates the benefit if you see what I mean. A short piece of rubber hose between the engine and the frame sections will avoid any possibility of a fatigue failure. Not meaning to be negative, just want to be helpful.

That beautiful piping begs for AN fittings and wire braid hose.

------ Follow up post added March 16th, 2010 10:18 AM ------

I also recommend ditching the Strombergs in favor of this. and this. Topped off with this.

------ Follow up post added March 16th, 2010 10:23 AM ------

D&D also carries headers for these engines here
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  #162  
Old March 16th, 2010, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I hate to add critical comments, but I will anyway.
Hey Bill,

Nothing is too critical. One reason I post on here is to get good constructive advice. I was just thinking about this the other day. The way I ran the fuel lines will make it very difficult to do any type of engine work/transplant later. I ran it the same way it came from the factory with the hard plastic lines--but in retrospect, the factory lines are much more pliable and easily moved out of the way if I needed to. I was thinking maybe cutting it to just above the footwell and using the rubber lines from there to the carb inlet. There is a short section of rubber lines to the carb inlet now.

I really need to address the engine while I have easy access to it. Before the teardown, everything was running really smooth, good power, no smoking, etc. Supposedly it was maintained by a mechanic. I would hate to open it up and see all new parts in there like new timing chains/cams. That's what happened when I did the clutch. Everything was brand new in there.
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  #163  
Old March 16th, 2010, 11:32 AM
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like bill said, flex between engine mounted pipework and frame mounted. forget all the AN bling crap you don't need it. Just keep the rubber away from heat sources.

Leave the engine alone if it was working. If it ain't broke don't fix it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Hey Bill,

Nothing is too critical. One reason I post on here is to get good constructive advice. I was just thinking about this the other day. The way I ran the fuel lines will make it very difficult to do any type of engine work/transplant later. I ran it the same way it came from the factory with the hard plastic lines--but in retrospect, the factory lines are much more pliable and easily moved out of the way if I needed to. I was thinking maybe cutting it to just above the footwell and using the rubber lines from there to the carb inlet. There is a short section of rubber lines to the carb inlet now.

I really need to address the engine while I have easy access to it. Before the teardown, everything was running really smooth, good power, no smoking, etc. Supposedly it was maintained by a mechanic. I would hate to open it up and see all new parts in there like new timing chains/cams. That's what happened when I did the clutch. Everything was brand new in there.
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  #164  
Old March 16th, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Also, why did you run the fuel lines over the black middle crossmember thing the body mounts to? Is that factory? I seem to recall it not going that way.
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  #165  
Old March 16th, 2010, 01:04 PM
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Yup, that's how it was when I removed it.
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  #166  
Old March 16th, 2010, 06:10 PM
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Yup, that's how it was when I removed it.
Ok, just checking.
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  #167  
Old March 26th, 2010, 11:18 PM
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Off this weekend so started working on the seatbox. Picked up a brand new battery box a few months ago. The previous owner made a simple dual battery tray so just mocking it up before installing. The old battery box was easy enough to remove. Used a 3/16 drill and drilled through the pop rivets. Got the underside of the seatbox soaking in degreaser and will be cleaning and installing the new box tomorrow.
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  #168  
Old March 27th, 2010, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Off this weekend so started working on the seatbox. Picked up a brand new battery box a few months ago. The previous owner made a simple dual battery tray so just mocking it up before installing. The old battery box was easy enough to remove. Used a 3/16 drill and drilled through the pop rivets. Got the underside of the seatbox soaking in degreaser and will be cleaning and installing the new box tomorrow.
Put silicone sealer where the two parts meet (between the seat box and the battery tray) that will minimize corrosion. I would also throw some primer and paint on both before fitting.
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  #169  
Old March 27th, 2010, 01:04 AM
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Thanks Ron,

That was my plan. Already have some silicon waiting. The box has 2 coats of POR 15....I know galvanize it
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  #170  
Old March 27th, 2010, 05:30 AM
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Forrest, not sure what you have planned for those holes in the front of the seat box, but they look about the right size to put a Blue Sea battery isolator in (at least one of them).

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...&ci_sku=268741
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  #171  
Old March 27th, 2010, 05:59 AM
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Looking good!

Nice new battery box, almost all of them are rotten... Is the box on the other side still ok?
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  #172  
Old March 27th, 2010, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Forrest, not sure what you have planned for those holes in the front of the seat box, but they look about the right size to put a Blue Sea battery isolator in (at least one of them).

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...&ci_sku=268741
Thanks for the link Charles. The previous owner had speakers in them. Really wish it wasn't cut. He also had the 2 batteries in parallel with no isolators. I think I will just keep it that way. He had really nice custom battery cables made up for them.

Jurriaan--the other side is really solid. The old battery box had some kind of anti-corrosive lining on it. I only has surface rust, it looks old and dirty in the pics because of the dirt and grease but it is still pretty strong.
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  #173  
Old March 28th, 2010, 03:25 PM
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Some more work done this weekend. Old battery box removed. Seatbox prepped for the power washer. POR 15 on the still good driver side box. As you can see I decided not to use pop rivets to put the new box in. I ended up using SS 5mm buttonheads. Also tried the Tuffy box I got from Safari Rover. Looks like it will interfere with the Fairy overdrive which comes up through the center seatbox cover. Will have to design a work-around on that. Will also have to move the drink carriers to the back of the box

Pics 6 and 7 shows the completed footwells.
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  #174  
Old March 28th, 2010, 05:42 PM
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nice work on the footwells...screws, rivets, adhesive...what did you end up using?
George
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  #175  
Old March 28th, 2010, 06:02 PM
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nice work on the footwells...screws, rivets, adhesive...what did you end up using?
George
I ended up using SS button heads with 3M Panel adhesive underneath.
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  #176  
Old March 28th, 2010, 06:15 PM
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Forgot to add that before putting the seatbox back on, I took advantage of having complete access to the tranny and completed the breather lines. My truck came complete with tranny, transfercase, rear and front axle breather kit. Good thing I took every single one off and checked because one of the breather nipple was clogged with mud. No wonder the pinion seal on the rear axle was leaking.

I ended up joining the tranny and transfer case into one line to the snorkel. Joined the 2 axles lines together but separate from the tranny and ran that to the snorkel. That way there is no communication between the 2 system.
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  #177  
Old March 28th, 2010, 06:59 PM
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Just a followup on the tire carrier. Still a long ways to go with this one; will need to get the tub back on for final fitting. But here it is for now. Last picture shows the lock mechanism that automatically drops down and locks it out at 90 degrees to prevent it from swinging out of control.
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  #178  
Old March 29th, 2010, 06:44 AM
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Might be a solution for the cubby box to mount it a bit higher. Most of them are a bit too low for using them as an arm rest, just check out what height you'll need.

Have you brought the station wagon crossmember and the mounts to the seat base brought to the galvaniser also?

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...8&d=1268759047

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...7&d=1269804053
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  #179  
Old March 29th, 2010, 09:18 AM
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Nice going Forrest, and nice beer choice. It almost makes up for the horrific crimes to humanity you are undertaking with the tire carrier. Just kidding.
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  #180  
Old March 29th, 2010, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jurriaan View Post
Might be a solution for the cubby box to mount it a bit higher. Most of them are a bit too low for using them as an arm rest, just check out what height you'll need.

Have you brought the station wagon crossmember and the mounts to the seat base brought to the galvaniser also?

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...8&d=1268759047

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...7&d=1269804053
The crossmember I bought new. The old one is too rusted. The seatbase is just painted in a rust preventative paint called POR15.

------ Follow up post added March 29th, 2010 11:49 AM ------

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Nice going Forrest, and nice beer choice. It almost makes up for the horrific crimes to humanity you are undertaking with the tire carrier. Just kidding.
Charles I've done worse things to humanity. I own an H3! Hahaha. I know you guys hate it but I will proceed in a slow, meticulous, painfully-brutal manner and post lots of pictures of the carrier.
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