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  #141  
Old March 4th, 2010, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leaterwood View Post
I just found your build thread and I must say that it's awsome.... I liked it so much that I had to go to the beginning and read all of your posts. I must say... I was about ready buy and rebuild a 78 scout but now I have changed my mind.. .. how much of a pain was it to import your 110 from England ? Hell even my wife likes the Defender ( D90 ) better than the scout so she made me clean out the garage for "Her" project... Keep the picts coming
Cleveland,

Thanks for the kind words. I am glad you enjoy the build thread. It's gratifying to know someone appreciates all the time and effort to do it. It is a lot of fun for me too. When I was in your shoes a few years ago, I looked everywhere for build threads but the only thing I found, at that time, was from ECR. It was great but I could never do something of that caliber. I am not an expert mechanic/restoration shop. So I figure I would start this thread to chronicle how a regular guy would restore a 110. It's not meant as a tutorial but something for people to enjoy, follow, and laugh as I mess up. Case in point---that ginormous, ridiculously overkill tire carrier I am trying to stick on the back of my truck. Everyone on here has been great, giving me a lot of info and very good advice.

So to answer your question, yes call Doug. I have never worked with him personally, although I am trying to buy some Tposts from him. I have heard nothing but good things about him. He is a well-respected member of this community. A lot of people have sent me PMs about how I imported my truck. It has been a long time so I don't remember all the details. I will just copy my response here:

"I have know idea how much they are in the UK. Mine was already imported into Canada and I imported it into the US from there. I do not think the required paperwork is any different coming from the UK vs Canada. You still have to present the same forms. The importation process was actually pretty easy. Since it is over 25 years old, you don't have to worry about bringing it up to EPA standards. That is a simple 1-2 page form/declaration. Customs is another issue and another form to fill out. The easiest way to clear customs/EPA is to have a customs broker do it for you. It cost me about $350 and it was worth it because they took care of everything and I didn't have to fly out there to declare it. After the broker clears customs make sure they send you all the necessary paperwork to get it registered in your state. Sounds complicated but it's not. Getting the DMV to title and register it was the hardest part for me, even with all the proper documentation. The Florida DMV just didn't know what they were doing, they don't see too many imported trucks I guess.

It cost me $1750 to get it on a truck and shipped to Florida from Canada. Another couple hundred dollars to register it in Florida because I had to pay a separate sales tax on the purchase price of the truck. I also had to pay a duty tax enforced by customs, I think it was 3%, before it even crossed the border."

Just remember this was back in 2009. Things may be different now.
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  #142  
Old March 4th, 2010, 08:40 AM
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one more suggestion though I doubt you will listen. get rid of those long pieces of rubber fuel line. that stuff does not last forever. it oxidizes and breaks down over time, and will start leaking. The way you have it run on top of the frame will then make it hard to replace. you would be much better off with hard plastic line like the factory uses, or metal line made of steel or stainless steel. then you can use short easily replaceable sections of rubber fuel line to join everything up at the ends. or you can leave it the way you have it and hopefully you won't lose the truck to a fire. seen too many of those, including my own, to let that go without saying something.
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  #143  
Old March 4th, 2010, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Not too crazy about the location of the pump but that's where the original was. May have to make some kind of protective brace for it.
Mine has a protective cover over it. I can take a picture sometime if you want (might have some on my site already too)
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  #144  
Old March 4th, 2010, 09:33 AM
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X2 on Dave's fuel line suggestion. I'll go you one further and tell you to use cupro-nickel (Monel) hard lines and Russell/Aeroquip end fittings with braided hose for vibration isolation. The last thing you want to have to fuss with is a fuel hose run under the truck. What's 100 bucks worth of fuel lines in the grand scheme?

There aught to be a law against hose clamps on fuel lines.
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  #145  
Old March 4th, 2010, 10:46 AM
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Ok, now you are suggesting overkill, whereas I was offering constructive advice. The items you suggest are far from necessary and not without their own problems. You should go up to Ottawa and help young Andrew with that kind of overdone silliness.



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There aught to be a law against hose clamps on fuel lines.
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  #146  
Old March 4th, 2010, 10:56 AM
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Steel lines? Cool. Where can you get these? Do they sell them by the foot like brake lines and then you bend them up yourself?

Charles you have a website?
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  #147  
Old March 4th, 2010, 11:01 AM
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Just lots of random pictures of my rover projects. Should be in my profile, but

http://gallery.lhsw.com
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  #148  
Old March 4th, 2010, 11:28 AM
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yup you can buy by the roll

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/124/=62mbdg

http://www.mcmaster.com/#tubing/=62mc4u

http://www.mcmaster.com/#tubing/=62mcyy

should be able to find something there that works. I've always just used the plastic stuff from the factory. Though I think I did find something similar and suitable at the local PEP BOYS years ago.

You can work the plastic stuff by heating it in boiling water. Thanks to this list for teaching me that trick.

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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Steel lines? Cool. Where can you get these? Do they sell them by the foot like brake lines and then you bend them up yourself?

Charles you have a website?
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  #149  
Old March 4th, 2010, 01:12 PM
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Whoa, just did a quick search and now completely confused with all the components and connections. Am I looking at hot rod parts here? AN fitting, Swagelok? The original lines were just hard plastic tubing pushed on and tighten with hose clamps. In fact it was just pushed onto a barb fitting at the fuel pump and carb intake, no hose clamps. There are no flare fittings like on the brake lines. I talked to Pat (Retrofit) a few months back about his crewcab restoration an he used rubber tubing too, but with a stainless flex covering. I decided not to use the stainless flex covering because I didn't want it scraping on the frame. Dissimilar metals causing a reaction, although low for stainless. Plus I live in Florida and we don't salt the roads here and we never get below 30 degrees.

My biggest problem though: how can I fit the stainless tubing onto the ports at the fuel tank/fuel pump/carb intake?
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  #150  
Old March 4th, 2010, 01:18 PM
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hose clamps are fine. just use short sections of the cheap rubber hose to join between your new lines and whatever compenent they are attaching to. or better yet just use the plastic lines that came with the vehicle if you still have them. as for connections that did not have a clamp, well, sometimes you can get away with it but I like to use them. there are spring clamps that are fine for low pressure applications like this and won't bite into the rubber as much as a worm drive clamp. but they only work where there is a barb not on a straight piece of pipe.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Whoa, just did a quick search and now completely confused with all the components and connections. Am I looking at hot rod parts here? AN fitting, Swagelok? The original lines were just hard plastic tubing pushed on and tighten with hose clamps. In fact it was just pushed onto a barb fitting at the fuel pump and carb intake, no hose clamps. There are no flare fittings like on the brake lines. I talked to Pat (Retrofit) a few months back about his crewcab restoration an he used rubber tubing too, but with a stainless flex covering. How can I fit the stainless tubing onto the ports at the fuel tank/fuel pump/carb intake?
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  #151  
Old March 4th, 2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Cleveland,

Thanks for the kind words. I am glad you enjoy the build thread. It's gratifying to know someone appreciates all the time and effort to do it. It is a lot of fun for me too. When I was in your shoes a few years ago, I looked everywhere for build threads but the only thing I found, at that time, was from ECR. It was great but I could never do something of that caliber. I am not an expert mechanic/restoration shop. So I figure I would start this thread to chronicle how a regular guy would restore a 110. It's not meant as a tutorial but something for people to enjoy, follow, and laugh as I mess up. Case in point---that ginormous, ridiculously overkill tire carrier I am trying to stick on the back of my truck. Everyone on here has been great, giving me a lot of info and very good advice.

So to answer your question, yes call Doug. I have never worked with him personally, although I am trying to buy some Tposts from him. I have heard nothing but good things about him. He is a well-respected member of this community. A lot of people have sent me PMs about how I imported my truck. It has been a long time so I don't remember all the details. I will just copy my response here:

"I have know idea how much they are in the UK. Mine was already imported into Canada and I imported it into the US from there. I do not think the required paperwork is any different coming from the UK vs Canada. You still have to present the same forms. The importation process was actually pretty easy. Since it is over 25 years old, you don't have to worry about bringing it up to EPA standards. That is a simple 1-2 page form/declaration. Customs is another issue and another form to fill out. The easiest way to clear customs/EPA is to have a customs broker do it for you. It cost me about $350 and it was worth it because they took care of everything and I didn't have to fly out there to declare it. After the broker clears customs make sure they send you all the necessary paperwork to get it registered in your state. Sounds complicated but it's not. Getting the DMV to title and register it was the hardest part for me, even with all the proper documentation. The Florida DMV just didn't know what they were doing, they don't see too many imported trucks I guess.

It cost me $1750 to get it on a truck and shipped to Florida from Canada. Another couple hundred dollars to register it in Florida because I had to pay a separate sales tax on the purchase price of the truck. I also had to pay a duty tax enforced by customs, I think it was 3%, before it even crossed the border."

Just remember this was back in 2009. Things may be different now.

Thanks for the advice... I have been in touch with Doug.. so now iwe're looking for a suitable project to import. I'm just glad to know that Defenders aren't so complicated to work on, and there are people out there that are willing to share the knowledge
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  #152  
Old March 8th, 2010, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
one more suggestion though I doubt you will listen. get rid of those long pieces of rubber fuel line. that stuff does not last forever. it oxidizes and breaks down over time, and will start leaking. The way you have it run on top of the frame will then make it hard to replace. you would be much better off with hard plastic line like the factory uses, or metal line made of steel or stainless steel. then you can use short easily replaceable sections of rubber fuel line to join everything up at the ends. or you can leave it the way you have it and hopefully you won't lose the truck to a fire. seen too many of those, including my own, to let that go without saying something.
Alright DB, just took your advice and placed an order for some stainless steel tubing. Should be here next week and I'll be tearing out the rubber junk soon. Will post pics as I go.

I did a little research an apparently not all stainless steel is the same. So for anyone out there taking notes, this is what I found. There are different grades out there. Seems like the most common is 304. They use it in the service industry like for pots/pans/utensils/dairy equipment etc. I ended up getting 316 stainless which is supposed to be more resistant to corrosion and often used in severe or marine environments:

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/stainlessinfo2.cfm

I was going to order from Summit Racing but they don't list what type of stainless they have. Plus it's mad expensive. I ordered from a DIY microbrewery place on Ebay for like $55 for 50 feet of 3/8" OD tubing. Don't really know if it will make a difference in my environment here, we don't salt the roads, but I do like to go to the beach a lot.
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  #153  
Old March 14th, 2010, 07:22 PM
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So the SS fuel lines came in. Had to buy a tube bender to keep it looking half-professional. Hand bending looks horrible. Just FYI....if you use a bender go slow. Going too fast will crimp the tube. Also thought about using the dry wall inserts to take advantage of the predrilled holes in the chassis. Bad idea. It didn't hold. Ended up drilling the chassis (hurt like hell but beer helps) and using sheet metal screws to hold everything in place. Ended up drilling like 6-8 holes, can't remember--I'm blaming that on Stella and Hiene.
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  #154  
Old March 14th, 2010, 08:08 PM
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I ended up using P-clamps to hold everything in place. I also used the flexible fuel tubing to isolate the SS fuels lines from rubbing on the chassis. Had to take off and reinstall the bulkhead a few times to make sure everything lined up correctly. Hopefully this will be the last time.
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  #155  
Old March 14th, 2010, 09:10 PM
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  #156  
Old March 14th, 2010, 09:38 PM
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great work man...congrats....
George
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  #157  
Old March 14th, 2010, 11:38 PM
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Took advantage of having the bulkhead off and wrapped the headers. What a mess. The instructions says to wet the wrap before applying. Well that big black mark underneath the truck is from the dripping wrap. Hope it comes out.
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  #158  
Old March 15th, 2010, 04:31 AM
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wow that is amazing. cool
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  #159  
Old March 15th, 2010, 11:29 PM
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What's with the Goldmember shock mounts?
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  #160  
Old March 16th, 2010, 09:21 AM
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I don't know. Ask TerraFirma.
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