1983 110 Rebuild - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old December 4th, 2009, 11:03 PM
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Quite inspirational as I prep to do the same. Keep up the posts and pics.
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  #62  
Old December 4th, 2009, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX
More stuff done. Spring angle on the front axle perch is a bit scary.

Isolated is suposed to go on top of the spring, not on the bottom. I would move it.
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  #63  
Old December 5th, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Isolated is suposed to go on top of the spring, not on the bottom. I would move it.

Crap! Really? Damn Expedition Exchange! They also told me the isolators will work on the rear---yeah, if it's a 90, not a 110.
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  #64  
Old December 5th, 2009, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
This is the stuff I'd want when re-assembling my roof right?
Not if you want to take it apart again.
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  #65  
Old December 5th, 2009, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110
Not if you want to take it apart again.
What's the best stuff to seal all the joints when I rivet it back together?
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  #66  
Old December 10th, 2009, 10:31 PM
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Long day today but got the clutch/pressure plate changed out, new slave cylinder and throw out bearing installed, and the engine/tranny mounted on the frame. Also got the wire loom in the chassis rail, that was a PITA
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  #67  
Old December 10th, 2009, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
What's the best stuff to seal all the joints when I rivet it back together?
I just ordered a couple tubes of the 3m 4200 - one black and one white. The 5200 is supposed to be a lot harder to remove.
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  #68  
Old December 11th, 2009, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
I just ordered a couple tubes of the 3m 4200 - one black and one white. The 5200 is supposed to be a lot harder to remove.
5200 requires a bond breaker agent or the bond cut, 4200 is the schiznit !
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  #69  
Old January 2nd, 2010, 01:06 AM
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Had some time this holiday break and rebuilt the left front swivel ball. Had a leaky seal and didn't want to just half-ass it by splitting the oil seal for the ball so had to take everything apart. What a mess. I was able to replace all the oil seal except for the one in the stub axle. Couldn't pull the bronze bushing out.

Also started on rebuilding the footwells.
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  #70  
Old January 12th, 2010, 02:43 PM
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Here are some more info on how I fixed the footwells. Don't want to reiterate everything again.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=22036
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  #71  
Old January 12th, 2010, 02:54 PM
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Is the top of your bulkhead smashed?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #72  
Old January 12th, 2010, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Is the top of your bulkhead smashed?
Yeah but that is a spare that came with my truck. The previous owner was going to cut out the footwells to patch up the ones in the truck.
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  #73  
Old January 12th, 2010, 07:35 PM
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Some random before and after shots. Hours of cleaning with a wire brush then prepped/painted with POR15. Definitely looks better now. I got UK soil all over my garage and driveway.
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  #74  
Old January 31st, 2010, 12:41 AM
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Bought a reciprocating saw, took a big breath, a shot of whisky and started cutting up the bulkhead. Last pic shows the date it was made? Not sure but if it is, my bulkhead is in surprisingly good condition.

I was able to bolt and fit up the footwells today. Will take some pics tomorrow in daylight.
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  #75  
Old February 1st, 2010, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Bought a reciprocating saw, took a big breath, a shot of whisky and started cutting up the bulkhead.
That's toooo funny. I may steal that for a sig line...

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  #76  
Old February 2nd, 2010, 05:47 AM
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footwells

I thought the footwells were 2 panels with a space between as I repaired the front side drivers side RHD 87 X90.
Did not know replacements were available. I had removed everything rear of firewall including firewall corner repair, door bottom repair. My driveway also has a lot of English mud although I am keeping frame. Thanx for all the pictures removing wings wheels bearing next so it was good to see pictures. Craig

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Some random before and after shots. Hours of cleaning with a wire brush then prepped/painted with POR15. Definitely looks better now. I got UK soil all over my garage and driveway.
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  #77  
Old February 2nd, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Peter - feel free to use that in your signature. It is kinda funny when I think about it. Unfortunately, this truck has definitely driven me to drinking.

Craig - I am not really sure what you mean by 2 panels and a space in between. My footwells consisted of the actual footwell and a reinforcement on the inside. There are replacement panels available but I just couldn't afford them. I made mine for about $50. I took a lot of pictures but I used this when I did my swivel, helped a lot:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7546
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601
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  #78  
Old February 2nd, 2010, 02:32 PM
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looks like awesome project... defender seem so easy and fun to work on if you got skills and are into it...

is there a way to find if my rear diff have difflock? my car was owned before by some hardcore offroader (i found mud even under roof carpet) and he had there screwed the air compressor before (which he removed). not that i really need it, so far the TC worked good enough for me but if it would be there, it would be another reason to get the air compressor as well (second being able to pump the tires since i drive mostly on highway setting).
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  #79  
Old February 2nd, 2010, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Some random before and after shots. Hours of cleaning with a wire brush then prepped/painted with POR15. Definitely looks better now. I got UK soil all over my garage and driveway.
I've been enjoying your build thread; keep it up.

I'm not so sure on the POR15, though. Every POR15 job I've seen looks kind of sloppy. When it comes to chassis refinishing, are there cleaner options?
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  #80  
Old February 2nd, 2010, 03:56 PM
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Hey Chris,

POR15 is tricky, very user dependent. I have had very good luck with it on my FJ40 but it really comes down to the prep. If applied properly, you can get a smooth, tough finish. Of course there are other options out there but I have used it before and I am familiar with it. Don't get it on your skin, will be there for days and will not come off until the skin comes off. Don't ask me how I know.

I am glad someone is enjoying the thread. I know when I first started, I looked everywhere for any kind of info/pics so I figured this would be helpful. I am in no way an expert, just an enthusiasts who likes to get his hands dirty. And seriously, it's a Land Rover, how hard can it be? I have tons of pics but only post the most interesting ones.
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